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LT1 Ram Air


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I've been collecting parts for a while now, and I finally got everything together to install my compressor and Ram Air intake. Here's a couple of pic's of just about everything mocked up.

DSCF2144.JPG

DSCF2143.JPG

I will probably go with a couple of vent openings in the front of the raised part of my hood similar to what datsunan is using. I already checked with him, and like a typical HybridZer he doesn't mind if I use his idea.

 

I only had to cut a little bit of the radiator support to allow my ram air box to fit underneath it...and yes the hood still fits. I want to make the air box seal to the hood and draw the air from the new openings. I also plan on blocking the sides of the radiator to the radiator support to ensure that the air goes through the radiator and not around it. I'm thinking I can still mount my condensor to the radiator support the same way fastzcars has his mounted.

 

What do you think?

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Thanks for the positive comments, this is something I've been thinking about for a long time. The Taurus fan that I was using before should still fit on this setup as well. There's still pretty good clearance between the radiator and the engine.

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looks real nice but to get a more direct air to that system, you should put the vents lower on your hood, not higher like on datsunans hood.. WHICH i love btw.

 

like some Turbo style vents from the older ZX twin turbo hood.

 

btw.. very very cool!

 

mike

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looks real nice but to get a more direct air to that system' date=' you should put the vents lower on your hood, not higher like on datsunans hood.. WHICH i love btw.

 

like some Turbo style vents from the older ZX twin turbo hood.

 

btw.. very very cool!

 

mike[/quote']I'm still thinking about the best way to get air into the air box, and I'm starting to think that I should just get the air from under the hood. It looks like datsunans hood openings would line up right over the air box...which could create problems for air flow and moisture from rain.

 

I'm working on a sheet metal shroud to fill in the space between the radiator support and the radiator. On top of that I'm going to fab up a sheet metal cover for the air box that will ensure that it only pulls air from in front of the radiator. I was going to only extend the air box cover to the radiator support, but I could extend it further forward if that would help air flow (it could extend as far as the grill if there's any benefit to that).

 

Maybe I could use a Mini Cooper S type scoop (or would that be too tuner like)?

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Or like that front intake hood scoop on the new vette Z06 version? Just a thought...
That looks pretty cool...

http://www.weblogsinc.com/common/images/1138358613746772.JPG?0.3025845014525184

Not sure how I would make something like that work...I don't want to bond fiberglass onto metal (it will crack eventually). If it doesn't give me any more performance, maybe I should just stick with a stock looking hood.

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Bartman,

Looks good. Mine will be a lot like yours. I will also use aluminum or SS sheet to cover up all the gaps around the radiator so that all the incoming air will go thru the radiator. Where did you get your strut brace BTW. I like it to get or make one just like that.

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Bartman' date='

Looks good. Mine will be a lot like yours. I will also use aluminum or SS sheet to cover up all the gaps around the radiator so that all the incoming air will go thru the radiator. Where did you get your strut brace BTW. I like it to get or make one just like that.[/quote']The strut brace is a Cusco, and IIRC I got it from www.horsepowerfreaks.com. Good service and good prices.

 

I'm working on the sheet metal this weekend...hopefully I will have more pictures to post in a couple of days.

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Okay, here's a couple of updated pic's:

DSCF2161.JPG

Ignore the temporary piece of wood in front of the radiator support.:icon52:

DSCF21351.JPG

Big a** K & N installed.:twisted:

 

I still need to figure out how to seal the airbox and get the best airflow. If I cut the top of the radiator support I could seal the sides and rear of the lid to the hood with some good closed cell foam. I think this would give me the best airflow, but is it worth it to cut the top of the radiator support?

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You're going to need to somehow re-attach the top of your core support. The integrity of the core support is pretty important.

 

Hmmm.......coming on to Barts thread a tad late here.....but from all the exposure with Z's that I've had.....I'd venture to say that all points fore or after the strut towers forward are non structural as far as the integrity of the chasis is concerned .

Think of the fact that the front crossmember and strut towers (along with a tower brace) make up the final box of structure regarding the chasis.

I DO think that it might be good to build an aluminum under tray for the filter to rest on. One that could be fully riveted back onto the radiator core support and perhaps also serve as an air seperator/splitter of sorts for the filters air source.

If done properly with some thought ....it might very well be your saving grace and look the serious part.

If your not skilled with sheetmetal forming.......befriend someone who is that can go off of your design or templates.

Regarding hood air flow and scoops.........the Warrior's scoop is 27" back from the nose of the hood.Which is the farthest forward of any Z composites hoods being made.I know that 280zone hood scoop back edge is another 5 " further back then the Warrior hood.If this doesent work for you.......you'll be looking into a louvered custom steel hood or composite one off's.

I'm thinking that maybe the filter box might work better turned upside down, aluminum shrouded and then let the thing breathe from the hood scoop and a custom duct thats mates up when the hood is closed.This way, the curved backward duct could be drilled for water shedding before the filter draws water in .Also large nasty bugs and debris could be detered without a direct hit into the filter for premature clogging.

Just some ideas there ??

.............Vinny

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I appreciate the concern, but I don't think that the structural integrity has really been compromised. I would venture to say that the strut bar provides more rigidity than was lost by the top of the radiator support. Of course...I could be wrong.

 

The top of the radiator support was pretty thin, and the bottom boxed part connecting the frame rails is still intact. That being said, I probably will reconnect the top of the frame support below the air box.

 

Thanks for all the ideas Vinny...I'm going to have to think about my options for a while. Right now I think that just getting air from in front of the radiator support without any scoops might be the best way to go. The air box has a pretty good angle to it (the front is a couple inches lower than the back), and it is open to a high pressure area of pre-radiator heated air.

 

I'm going to solicit input from blueovalZ (he modified his radiator support) and johnc (Z car and structure expert) in regards to this issue as well.

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I appreciate the concern, but I don't think that the structural integrity has really been compromised. I would venture to say that the strut bar provides more rigidity than was lost by the top of the radiator support. Of course...I could be wrong.

 

And, unfortunately, you are...

 

Think of the engine compartment as a box with the entire core support as one end, the firewall and cowl box as the other, and the lower frame rails and upper inner fender frame rails as the sides. The following items rely on the structural integrity of that box:

 

1. Crossmember (which includes engine, steering rack, and LCA mounts).

2. Front ARB.

3. Strut towers (which include the upper front suspension mounts).

4. TC rods.

5. Steering column.

6. Brake and clutch MC.

7. Hood hinges.

8. Radiator.

 

In essence you've created something that doesn't really exist: a three sided box. The strut tower bar has probably kept things somewhat aligned but you really need to put that core support back together.

 

BTW: the stock core support is much stronger then ANY bolt in strut tower brace and is most likely stronger the most welded in strut tower braces.

 

BTW2: Wonder what's going to happen to the front of the car in a collision without the top part of the core support?

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