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Picture of my trial fit. Ls1/ Datsun 510.


rustrocket

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The radiator looks like it's going to be a tight fit. I think routing the intake will be equally as interesting. I ordered a set of sanderson block hugger headers which look as though they'll fit when the firewall is cut and the engine is moved back enough to they clear the steering box.

 

I thought about the toilet paper idea, but i like the thought of retrofitting a bidet into the passenger seat better, although i'd have to have a water tank somewhere...

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The radiator looks like it's going to be a tight fit. I think routing the intake will be equally as interesting. I ordered a set of sanderson block hugger headers which look as though they'll fit when the firewall is cut and the enging is moved back enough to they clear the steering box.

 

I thought about the toilet paper idea' date=' but i like the thought of retrofitting a bidet into the passenger seat better, although i'd have to have a water tank somewhere...[/quote']

 

 

use the water from the coolant overflow tank :)

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I still cannot believe it actually fit inside the engine bay !!

 

There's about 3" on both sides from the coil packs to the strut towers.

 

As soon as i began wrestling the engine and cutting the radiator support, i realized why this hasn't been done before (that i know of).

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Thats gonna be just crazy! I love it! How much does that car weigh anyways?

 

10s for sure. :mrgreen:

 

Terry

 

Terry' date=' according to a recent ebay ad (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-datsun-510-S15-SR20DET_W0QQitemZ4622514018QQcategoryZ6188QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem), the stock weight is around 2140. I'm guessing with the cage, and engine swap, i'll be closer to 2300?

 

Did i mention i have a ported throttle body, .588 lift cam, headers, and a lightweight flywheel?

 

neat stuff tho i cant wait to see it all the way in and how the exhaust is going to work

I was thinking upswept headers :wink:

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I'd remove pretty much all of the firewall, hack up the trans tunnel until you get it where you want it. Then rebuild around the engine and trans. IMO if you can't fit the radiator up front I'm kinda doubting that it's going to handle well at all. Too much weight too far forward. Don't know if that matters to you or not though...

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Well, what do you think the radiator and it's coolant weighs? Water is 8 lbs/gal, probably 2 gallons, then there is the radiator itself, say 10-20 lbs depending on what you buy, so you're moving probably 30-40 lbs. The engine weighs 450 lbs, trans is 150. So moving those back 6 inches or whatever is going to have a much bigger effect than moving the radiator back. You might do both, but then also figure on the weight of the tubing used to move the coolant to the back and the coolant that's inside the tubes, you'll move the center of gravity back but increase the total weight.

 

Do you know Dennis and Peggy Hale? They run the NorCal NASA autoxes in Marina, CA. It was shut down for a while but they're back up and running again. Might want to take a trip down and talk at them for a while, and do some autoxing while you're at it. They had an autox 510 with a 215 that they built specifically for lowest PMOI. They might be able to tell you what NOT to do. Supposedly there V8 510 is wicked fast when it's pointed the right direction, but keeping it pointed the right direction is apparently the problem. Now they just stick to driving "Pinky" their EP 510 mostly.

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