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rustrocket

Picture of my trial fit. Ls1/ Datsun 510.

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Supra510    14

Dennis is a good guy and a great asset to the 510 community, but take anything he says regarding engine swaps with a grain of salt. Not everybody wants an autocross car. His comments regarding the rear suspension are somewhat valid unless you look at Gary Havner's (SSS510 on this board I believe) 10 second IRS 510. Seems like he got the power down.

 

If you want to build it, do it and build it for you not anyone else. I see more people get bent out of shape because someone criticizes their car, or engine choice, etc. You're the one that has to live with it so build it how you want.

 

Are you going to have a great autocross car? Probably not, but it will be fun. Are you going to have a fun and quite fast trackday/drag car? Yes, if you build it right.

 

Dennis sees the charm of the 510 as a light little car that dances around orange cones. That's not everyone's idea (frankly not many people's idea nowadays) of what this car is about.

 

You should cut the firewall out enough to get a radiator in the front and go from there. The other thing you will face is that this will not be cheap. More power=bigger brakes (though JMort will disagree with me on how big)=bigger wheels=body mods, etc. Plus you need a good suspension as a starting platform.

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rustrocket    0

My suspension is looking decent already. Troy Ermish coil overs all the way around, tokico 5 ways in the front, Hal/Carerras in the rear, addco sway bars, techno toy camber plates and tie rods, and i also have a 4 point bar in the rear that will turn into a full cage after the swap is complete.

 

I want this car to handle somewhat. I'm not expecting that i'm going to go to a track and spank enzos and f430s all day long. I want to have fun. I want to go fast in a straight line, and be able to turn when i need to. I dont think that's too much to ask, is it?

 

Am i just blissfully ignorant? Should i ditch the project before i butcher a rust free 510?

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qwik240z    16
My suspension is looking decent already. Troy Ermish coil overs all the way around' date=' tokico 5 ways in the front, Hal/Carerras in the rear, addco sway bars, techno toy camber plates and tie rods, and i also have a 4 point bar in the rear that will turn into a full cage after the swap is complete.

 

I want this car to handle somewhat. I'm not expecting that i'm going to go to a track and spank enzos and f430s all day long. I want to have fun. I want to go fast in a straight line, and be able to turn when i need to. I dont think that's too much to ask, is it?

 

Am i just blissfully ignorant? Should i ditch the project before i butcher a rust free 510?[/quote']

 

 

It sounds like your suspension will make the car handle fine for what you want it to do. My V8 510 handled fine for the street and the track. I had 280ZX struts w/ coil overs up front with Konis and camber plates and a Quickor swaybar. The rears were Konis with ST springs and a Quickor sway bar.

 

I am sure that Dennis' V8 510 would handle just fine for most of us. It is when he compares it to his 4 cyl 510 that the issues arise.

 

I say GO FOR IT!

 

That will be one great swap if you can finish it.

 

Get the motor back as far as possible and mount a radiator up front.

 

You will need to figure out how to get heat out of the tiny engine compartment. Make sure you open up the radiator opening and build a proper shroud to get the max cooling out of it. A louvered hood may help some and wrapping the headers too. An airdam with brake ducts that have been routed to the engine compartment too.

 

Show us some more pics of your ride.

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qwik240z    16
Thanks for the support qwik240z. I think when i finish this swap' date=' i'll change my name to stupidfastdime .

 

Anyways, i obviously need the engine to be pretty far back, but at what point would it be too far back?[/quote']

 

I think that is a question for the 510 list but I think if you can just push it back far enough to allow you to mount a radiator and cooling fans, you will be fine. Try to get most of the weight behind the strut towers.

 

As jmortensen said " I'd remove pretty much all of the firewall, hack up the trans tunnel until you get it where you want it. Then rebuild around the engine and trans. IMO if you can't fit the radiator up front I'm kinda doubting that it's going to handle well at all. Too much weight too far forward.

 

This is what the engine compartment looked like in my 510:

 

520667_1_full.jpg

 

520667_3_full.jpg

 

520667_4_full.jpg

 

 

As you can see in the pics, I pushed the radiator all the way forward until it was up against the grill. I had cooling issues. Even with a Griffin Aluminum Radiator and 4 Spal fans. I think cooling will be your biggest issue.

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Sparky    7

Im really intrigued by your project, LS1 in a dime sounds ridiculously fun AND challenging! kudos to you for trying to pull it off...hope you stick with it.

 

I honestly have not seen a 510s engine bay up close and personal for some time so my suggestions may seem a bit ignorant...forgive me for that.

 

after looking at those pictures posted by qwik240z it looks as though thats going to be te biggest challenge of them all..how to keep it cool. I personally hate cutting the firewalls on cars, I once sat in a datsun roadster that had a LS1 conversion and was extremely disappointed in the position of the new peddle box, there is just something about having cramped feet, or having to sit slightly crooked in a car with my legs and feet cramped off to the left to clear some stupidly large transmission tunnel that irks me greatly.

 

how low will the LS sit in the 510s engine bay? would it be possible to mount the radiator on top of the engine ala-WRX intercooler style? (again, In my head it sounds like it wouldn't work for a variety of reason but i felt it was worth mentioning.) what about cutting out the radiator support and making a new one out of tubing? you might be able to gain a few inches on either side and maybe even one or two up front, the headllights might get in the way so maybe a low and wide custom made radiator would do the trick. or you could just remove the inner headlights completely and leave the holes there for cooling. what about a full tube frame front end? would it be possible to mount two smaller radiators at opposing angles off to either side of the engine? 8/ maybe something like that?

 

anywho, what a challenge! would love to see it in person and have a go at fitting that thing in there! goodluck with it, looking forward to seeing more progress.

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rustrocket    0
how low will the LS sit in the 510s engine bay? would it be possible to mount the radiator on top of the engine ala-WRX intercooler style? (again' date=' In my head it sounds like it wouldn't work for a variety of reason but i felt it was worth mentioning.) what about cutting out the radiator support and making a new one out of tubing? you might be able to gain a few inches on either side and maybe even one or two up front, the headllights might get in the way so maybe a low and wide custom made radiator would do the trick. or you could just remove the inner headlights completely and leave the holes there for cooling. what about a full tube frame front end? would it be possible to mount two smaller radiators at opposing angles off to either side of the engine? 8/ maybe something like that?

[/quote']

 

I think the radiators on opposing angles to the side of the engine would suffer from being too close to the exhaust? I pondered the idea of cutting the radiator support and tubing it, which seems like a good option (i cant afford to tube frame the whole front of the car :-( ) . I've seen in a a couple cars (particularly, a Triumph Spitfire on ebay a few years ago that had a 427 Cobra engine in there) with bottom mounted radiators.

 

Unfortunately this weather is holding me up, as my whole swap is being done outside :-(

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Sparky    7
I think the radiators on opposing angles to the side of the engine would suffer from being too close to the exhaust?

 

thats possible, you could open up the angle of the V to move them out away from the engine, something like 15 degrees? one other thing that I just thought of on the V mount dual radiators is tire clearance...I think it would probably work as long as you didnt want to turn :) just a slight oversight on my part. :lol:

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Sparky    7
What about v mounted radiators in front of the engine (so they both meet at the radiator support)? hmm...

 

exactly!

 

How about dual radiators in the wheel wells, Porsche 996 style?

 

 

I was also thinking of this, but was thinking of the setups in the original mini coopers. hmm, how much room is there behind the wheels?

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Mike kZ    116

There was a member here with a V8 Z that had the radiator in the regular spot, and then put either a heater core, or trans cooler ( don't remember ) on each side infront of the wheels. Said it really helped with cooling.

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Supra510    14

I would try to keep the cooling where it is. The main reason is that the radiator sits on the lower tiebar. You are pretty much forced to have the crank pulley behind that tiebar unless you fab a new one to create clearance. If the engine's not far enough back then you can't get the pulley off with the engine in the car, or even get a wrench on the bolt.

 

If the crank pulley is in back of the tiebar then you have enough room to fit a decent size radiator. I have a Griffin 16X29? in my car and it fits height and width wise. You can pick those up at Summit for under 200.00 and they are meant for a V8 to begin with.

 

I was looking at qwik240z conversion, was the crank pulley under that tiebar?

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qwik240z    16
I would try to keep the cooling where it is. The main reason is that the radiator sits on the lower tiebar. You are pretty much forced to have the crank pulley behind that tiebar unless you fab a new one to create clearance. If the engine's not far enough back then you can't get the pulley off with the engine in the car' date=' or even get a wrench on the bolt.

 

If the crank pulley is in back of the tiebar then you have enough room to fit a decent size radiator. I have a Griffin 16X29? in my car and it fits height and width wise. You can pick those up at Summit for under 200.00 and they are meant for a V8 to begin with.

 

I was looking at qwik240z conversion, was the crank pulley under that tiebar?[/quote']

 

The crank pulley was behind the "tiebar" in my car. You could remove the pulley with the motor in the car. I had replace a broken harmonic balancer once.

 

I had a Griffin radiator in the car too. I think it was 22" X 13"

 

I agree with supra510, keep the radiator in the stock location.

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