Jump to content
HybridZ

Best Engine Management System for SR20DET?


240zip

Recommended Posts

What are peoples opinion of various engine management system options for the SR20DET? This would assume a SR20DET running less than 20psi tuned for 91 octane gas. I've been leaning towards the FC Commander set-up. I'd like a 'set-it-and-go' arrangement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

if you like to play nintendo games and things like that go with the power fc unless you get the datalogit program which is seperate and then you can tune by laptop, but i would recommend either AEM EMS, Microtech or Electromotive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are peoples opinion of various engine management system options for the SR20DET? This would assume a SR20DET running less than 20psi tuned for 91 octane gas. I've been leaning towards the FC Commander set-up. I'd like a 'set-it-and-go' arrangement.

 

I'll sell you my Power FC, Commander and Datalogit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There you go. Buy his Power FC setup with Datalogit. Then you have the commander on the dash for the display, quick changes, etc... but you can fully tune with the Datalogit on a laptop.

 

I love my Tec3. It does a lot that the PowerFC can't. As far as difficulty of installation goes, its a 3 wrenches out of 3. Thats for sure. It's good to have someone around who has done a standalone before. The PowerFC plugs right in and goes... and gives you the ability to tune as you need to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New ECU is great. Car runs like a scalded dog. I like the plug and play. Now, I can be pretty sure that any other issues are mechanical. Before, I could not determine what issues were mechanical and what issues were the tune.

 

My only issues are:

 

1. It cuts out if you get on it before it gets warmed up

2. It spools to about 9 psi, stalls there or drops to about 7 psi, then spools the rest of the way to about 17 psi.

 

I think the warming up issue is common to enthalpy tunes.

 

I think the spooling issue is from a small leak at my ebay BOV. Well, that is what my mechanic says. I have another BOV on order.

 

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My main problem is that I haven't had time to jack with it since I have been driving the car every day. I have the passenger's seat removed since I am fabbing brackets for 318 leather seats.

 

I still have the piece of crap mbc from ebay. I am going to remove it this weekend to see if that helps. I doubt that it would be leaking just a little at a time, but weirder things have happened. I think if I remove it completely, I will be fine since the GT2871R is supposed to be wastegated at 14psi. That is enough for street driving for me. I will disconnect it and see what happens.

 

Alex, what BOV do you guys use? I am running bypass so I stick with Greddy Type S, but I don't want to spend the bucks for a Greddy. Should I just fork out the dough and get it done right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes yes. megasquirt is the way to go!

 

I just got mine running and its pretty cool. few bugts to be worked out, and tuning should be fun, but its driveable now. I think there are a few guys on MSEFI.com running megasquirt on their SR20DETs. I know over on nicoclub.com there is a complete write up to put one on a CA18DET. the SR's and CA's are close, as far as sensors and triggers and what not, right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the warming up issue is common to enthalpy tunes.

 

I've never heard that before. Are a lot of people complaining about this?

 

Usually any tune using the stock ECU will not be effected by warmup issues. The reason is that tuners don't touch that part of the computer.

 

Are you having issues with it taking too long to warm up or something?

 

Is your radiator fan running full time from the get-go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never heard that before. Are a lot of people complaining about this?

 

Usually any tune using the stock ECU will not be effected by warmup issues. The reason is that tuners don't touch that part of the computer.

 

Are you having issues with it taking too long to warm up or something?

 

Is your radiator fan running full time from the get-go?

 

No, it warms up just fine. The issue is that before it warms up, the car runs too rich. It coughs and sputters if you give it too much gas. May be a TPS issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your looking feature to feature the AEM EMS is hard to beat. the boost per MPH and not having to buy a electronic boost controller(AEM uses a $40 GM boost solenoid for controll).I was sold on the system after seeing several Hondas and a couple of Vortech fed Mustangs use the AEM EMS.Plus I plan on running a small shot of N20 to spool the turbo and the ability to add the fuel for the Nitrous via the fuel injectors and just the flexability of the system to do things like pulse a methanol injection solenoid on a port injected setup per lb of boost and be able to fine tune an almost unlimited # of boost settings sold me on the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Tec3 can do all that, and comes with full ignition, eliminating the stock ignition system altogether. (which can sometimes be costly and problematic to maintain) Also removing the Cam Angle Sensor, and setting timing mechanically to a permanent point on the crank.

 

I gotta say, though, after playing with the AEM and reading the manuals, I'm damn impressed with what it can do. It's the most tunable of any computer I've played with. However, I'd say it might be the most complicated at the same time. (as far as high end standalone systems go)

 

One thing you can do with the AEM over the Tec3 is run full sequential injection as opposed to phased sequential. This should make it gain a couple of horsepower and possibly get better gas mileage due to better management of injectors. (not that phased sequential doesn't work really well, though)

 

The Tec3 can also run full sequential on a 4 cylinder, but needs to be run with a cam angle sensor as well as the crank angle sensor, or the timing all needs to be read from the cam angle sensor location with an unusually designed magnetic trigger wheel setup. (using a mini wheel and sensor, but it would be right up front on the motor at the top... and probably protrude above the valve cover.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
Guest RPSport-John

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but i caught this while googling.

 

AEM FTL. Do you really want to go from full sequential to batch injection or ignition. With only 6 dedicated outputs, the AEM fails at being a strong competitor vs the power fc.

 

I do not like the power fc, based on my experiences with the data loggit soft (buggy?)

 

Sollutions? Haltech SR20DET plug and play with base maps!

 

From who else? But us, in conjunction with Haltech of course. Full sequential control, and a boost solenoid better than the aem... i would know, i have been ordering haltech boost controlers to install with aem systems.

 

Check us out, give me a ring, hugh you know steve, ask him how he feels about the haltech (he is running it!)

 

John

John@RPSport.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...