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How to mount them there ZG Flares


240hoke

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Really noob question, never knew too much/had experience with body work. What would be the point of folding the inner lip and tacking it to the fender? Why not just cut the fender where you would end up tacking it and then just paint the bare metal area. Sorry, don't know squat about body work.

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just bought my zg flares from msa before i read this thread. are they the same flares? are these higher quality?

 

i see that they are the same price and i am wondering if i should cancel my order from msa and order them from classic datsun?

 

I have heard they are sourced from the same outfit. That was over 2.5 years ago though, so you never know.

 

I received my ZG install kit from Austin and it's pretty darn cool. I think it's better than my hairbrained solution I was going to use.

 

Davy

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Hey guys,

 

Thanks for the feedback Davyz, Im glad you like it and I hope it works out good for you.

 

I want to emphisize as well that you probably will want to cut the fenders a bit higher in the rear then I did, I have rubbed them a couple times.... I dont have bump stops in my car though. Next time I get a chance i will take the spring off to check suspension travel and see just how close it is (prolly something I should have done before hand lol)

 

Also I do reccomend buying the flares from Classic Datsun. I do however believe they are the same as MSA. But the customer service and people at Classic datsun are great, and I believe that have a slightly better price. I do as little with MSA as I can, costomer service is not the name of their game.

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If you look in the wheel well you'll see where the inner sheetmetal is horizontal. I cut the outer so that the inner comes out horizontally and meets the out fender.

 

I will vouch personally that this is the way they are installed in Japan, and in the instructions that came in the old "Yellow Book" for competition prep in Japan---maybe Alan can add something about that. The parting line at the top of the wheel well between the wheelwell's inner and outer arches is where they come straight out to the body line, and the arches basically make what formerly was both the outer wheel well arch and the quarter panel extension---making in effect a "tubbed" wheelwell with the FRP extension being nothing more than a vestigial lip to cover the outermost portions of the tire combination. The tire/wheel combo of a 14X10" Watanabe (forget tyre size) running a Dunlop racing slick will take full suspension compression without rubbing on anything, and they will tuck inside the ZG Flare in such a state.

 

I think I may have some Xeroxed Pages from the old "Yellow Book" that shows installation details (er... hand drawn in Japanese...) I could dig them up from storage if needed to put it all to rest.

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The tire/wheel combo of a 14X10" Watanabe (forget tyre size) running a Dunlop racing slick will take full suspension compression without rubbing on anything, and they will tuck inside the ZG Flare in such a state.

 

I think I may have some Xeroxed Pages from the old "Yellow Book" that shows installation details (er... hand drawn in Japanese...) I could dig them up from storage if needed to put it all to rest.

 

Excellent information, Tony. Thanks for posting that. If you have the time and could scan us a photo of the "Yellow Book," that would be awesome. Cheers.

 

Davy

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Hey, I had some time, and here is one of the photos from my Cardomain page, I scanned this as well as some miscellaneous images from the "Yellow Book" as well as the JDM Fairlady Z Service Manual (regarding the S20 motor and cam drive)

If you go there, you should be able to decipher the web addy from the properties of the photo I think--I know my profile at ZC.C has a link to the page as well... there is the "Camshaft Card" for the stock cams available in the JDM at the time.

Here is one of the photos from the "Yellow Book" regarding the ZG Flare Placement, you can decipher they were running 8" rims up front, and 10" rims out back, so that gives you some guide:

 

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/735000-735999/735451_69_full.jpg

735451_69_full.jpg

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Hey, I had some time, and here is one of the photos from my Cardomain page...

Here is one of the photos from the "Yellow Book" regarding the ZG Flare Placement, you can decipher they were running 8" rims up front, and 10" rims out back, so that gives you some guide:

 

Many thanks, Tony! That is some useful information :D

 

Davy

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Here is one of the photos from the "Yellow Book" regarding the ZG Flare Placement, you can decipher they were running 8" rims up front, and 10" rims out back, so that gives you some guide:


Tony,
The images from the "Yellow Book" ( the Nissan Sports Service preparation manual for the 432-R & 240Z models ) do not actually refer to the Overfenders that were fitted to the production model 'HS30-H' Fairlady 240ZG.

They refer to the 432-R Sports Option overfenders, which were a different shape to the production Fairlady 240ZG overfenders ( they had a fuller curve profile - effectively covering more tyre - and different attachment points ). These 432-R Sports Option overfenders were used on the Works PZR race cars from around the middle of the 1970 season, which used the 8J front and 10K rear Kobe Seiko 8-spoke magnesium wheels ( and which looked like Watanabe hachi-spos ).

Perhaps the fitting instructions for the ZG-type overfenders from one of the factory service manuals would be more a more accurate guide? They don't give any dimensions, as the genuine factory ZG overfenders only really fitted properly one way ( lining up with the body shape, and holes drilled in the pre-formed positions on the moulding ):

 

fsmoverfenderinstallatikp1.jpg


Alan T.

Edited by HS30-H
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Perhaps the fitting instructions for the ZG-type overfenders from one of the factory service manuals would be more a more accurate guide? They don't give any dimensions, as the genuine factory ZG overfenders only really fitted properly one way ( lining up with the body shape, and holes drilled in the pre-formed positions on the moulding ):

 

fsmoverfenderinstallatikp1.jpg

 

Alan T.

 

Thanks for providing that bit of information, Alan :D

 

Davy

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Ohhh, more tasty bits from the "Alan Archives"! Coooool!

 

I have to agree, the "Factory" ZG flares fit very tightly over the body lines, it becomes obvious where they go when held up to the body. Unfortunately like any other FRP part, the generational loss from molds and "improvements" done throught the intervening 30+ years have made for (IMO) some pretty poor fitting parts.

 

I have been on this rant before, and maybe Alan will chime in as well, but IMO, the FRP parts produced in Japan were head and shoulders above anything done here in the USA. I was once offered a US-Knockoff G-Nose, and when I saw it basically wasn't interested. My 450Yen junkyard one-piece Japanese Knockoff was better! (I will note that John Coffee's stuff I DO have on my vehicles-a CF Hood, but his is a step apart from the masses of junk most people use. There may be individuals making high quality parts, but they are few and far between, and almost always are knocking off a knocked off part, and not an OEM Nissan Piece.)

 

And when you start playing around with OEM Nissan Stuff....

 

The saddest part is that there are so many good Aerospace Composite Manufacturing Facilities in SoCal, someone with some OEM Nissan stuff could make some REAL quality pieces. The problem is the costs involved will be beyond most people who are willing to put this stuff on their car. So many people will settle for an inferior part, selling a real quality part for a reasonable (meaning costs covered + reasonable profit) price becmoes almost impossible.

 

But isn't that always the way?

 

Now I'm thinking about looking at that Service Manual I have and seeing if that ZG Flare was in there, I know the S20 engine overhaul is covered in mine, but I really haven't looked at it in years.

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  • 3 weeks later...

where can i get these mounting nuts for my custom flare? i'm modifying imsa street flares to have ZG bolt holes, so i need to find those nuts, cause i don't wanna misalign a bolt hole and weld some nuts to the back of my fender.

 

I'd rather have them punched in like the brass ones that austin has on the first post of this thread.

 

anyone have part numbers or know where I can aquire a couple of sets for a good price? (in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, preferably)

 

Or if someone has a good trade-name for these parts that I can go to a fastener store to inquire about them, that might be even better, as I can go look at their selection.

 

FANKS!

 

Raff.

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nutserts...

 

and these nutserts would then come with nuts to hold them on from behind?

 

generally, how big of a bolt should I use to hold these suckers on?

The car will be tracked once in a while to have some real fun, but it's mostly gonna be a midnight street cruiser.

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