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L28e To L28et Swap


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You should run a hose from the J-pipe to the PRV on the #4 intake trac as indicated in this pic. This is basically your factory BOV. It will release air into the intake manifold and allow a slower spindown of the turbo. With no hose hooked up and no BOV, most likely that black plug you slipped on there will pop out anyway.

 

robturbo05.jpg

 

not to the AAC plug that is seen in the pic with the black cap on it. It is the thing that looks like a big PCV valve just hidden in this pic.

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ok on the three wire setup (driver side ).i cut that harrness and did the same as you did .

i ran the yellow to the dash plug by the ecu . hooked it to the wire you showed me on that plug {right after the ecu }.

ran that black and white to the ground .

 

i removed the blue wire and didnt use it. where does that wire hook to ?

you said blue gos to power on the na harrness ? but where and then it would be running to what ?

 

i am pretty sure i got it right.... as long as the yellow wire you showed me

to hook it to was right ......then i should be all good .

but still unsure of the blue wire hmhhmhm .

 

as for the na power and ground to the coil blue is ground , black and white stripe is power. i know this for sure , both the na and turbo cars coils where wired this way .

 

wire002.jpg

 

on the fuseable link side .i color matched everything .and left the blue and white wires taped off .where you kidding me that {green goes to yellow} ?????

 

on the pvc intake spot i caped that off and on the j tube iam going to put my bov .it just hasnt gotten here yet . if it doesnt show up i will put the stock bov settup on ,as

you said just untell the bov getts here .

 

i gots to go to the parts store .i want to try to fire over her over this eveing ...

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One quick question... So why doesn't anybody here ever use the factory block cooler that the motors came with? The NA motors had them and the Turbo motors had them. Are they really that worthless? It never really gets over 100 F here and rarely over 110 F in the valley. I've had it turn on in my NA every now and then but I still don't understand how it could possible cool much. It also never came on while driving, just while sitting still.

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Yes, you're right! sorry... for the coil the black wire (with white stripe) is power. oops... ya. so it sounds like you got it.

 

Your NA coil wiring powers up the turbo coil as normal. That's all it needs is power. Then the yellow wire on that little side plug sends a tach signal to the ECU so it can adjust the timing advance/retard as the rpms go up.

The side plug black wire just grounds...? I think.

 

here it is the pic. It shows which connection on the harness to plug that yellow wire from the coil transistor into

turbohookup_thumb.jpg

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nice nice .yes i think i have it ..

iam going o check the plug on the ecu side just to make sure but i think its right .

 

got everything i need from the parts store .clutch master will be here this afternoon .

 

i got my front mount oil cooler all setup .used high temp hose and fittings and Rv sealent to seal it ..i think it turned out well .i sealed it up real good hopfully it wont leak .

oilcooler.jpg

 

 

as for the block cooler G.mine never came on so why have it .

it never gets past 90 deg here and even when it does get to 90 deg it

only stays that way for a day or tWo out of the whole year .

on my turbo block cooler it had a plastic down pipe to suck cold air up from under the car .wierd my na did not have this .

 

going to work on my D pipe and injectors .iam pretty sure i have them in the right order .its nice they made them so you can tell witch wires go where .

still have a few more things to handle .i will be back later to let you all Know if she fires up .

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yes yes Thank U BLEACH your wiring drawing worked great .,..

iam on the right wirer for the coil .!

 

down pipe is ready for welding have to wait untell gray getts off work around 6pm to have it welded up he is the only one that knows how to set this welder up!

 

going to go finsh the injectors and install this new clutch master if it shows up at the parts store .if not i wont get to drive it untell that shows up .

 

iam going to run that hose to unless the bov i orderd shows up .

other than these last four things i think shes done {hopefully}

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turned the key ...and its acting like its in grear ? i am sure that its the in gear switch .how do i turn it off so i can get it to fire over ?????????????

 

 

To anyone that has done a trany swap from AT to MAN how do i get the trany switch for the auto to turn off ???????????????

 

IAM SO ICHING TO MAKE ITS HAPPEN I HAVE A GOOD FEELING MY ECU GREEN LITE

POWERS ON EVERYTHING IS HOOKED UP ....I KNOW SOMEONE HAS THE ANWSER I NEED ?

COME ON I WANT TO SEE IF SHE WILL RUN .AT TRANY SWITCH SHUT

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turned the key ...and its acting like its in grear ? i am sure that its the in gear switch .how do i turn it off so i can get it to fire over ?????????????

 

 

anythat has done a trany swa[ from at to many how do i get the trany switch for the auto to turn off ???????????????

 

What do you mean it's acting like it's in gear? The starter won't engage at all?

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What do you mean it's acting like it's in gear? The starter won't engage at all?

 

yes

if you leave a AUTO in drive or low or second .

AND you turn the key it wont start .isnt this how all auto's are?

that is what it is doing everything comes on but it wont fire ..i can here it .

it make a anananan sound ..i use to forget all the time to stick in park , when i would turn the key it would do this ...................its doing that now for sure.

how to i make it think its in park ?

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so it runs ...i turned the key and used a wrench and jumped the starter ...she fired over and ran strong .check the timing it looked it like it was a 28 deg off top dead .trottle body has a bad vac leak .and tps needs ajusted .

she ran real good got her all hot and the gasket started to seal .

why wont it start with the key ? what did i do wrong ...so gray see's that the oil sender isnt showing that there was alot of oil presser ..he turn it off and then it wouldnt start again .i dont think there was anything wrong with the oil presserbecuase the temp didnt jump or act wierd and it sound real stong ..

i think the sender is messed up .but it wouldnt start again ..going to let it cool off for a bit and see if she will fire up again.

what did i do wrong on the wireing .i think my car is a GL this shows that the green with blue striped wire needs to be grounded

 

 

i think i need to ground the green and blue striped wire and i need to run a 12v power to the fully yellow one .and the tech wire is right becuase my tech was working fine ...i went out and tryed to start her again .she turn over but then the fuseable links box fryed a link ..it was the link for the dash wires .i dont think it likes being hot wired or ran with thoughs wires unhooked "??????????????????????????? {anyone}...

someone stop me if iam wrong but i think i need to hook up the wires in the ignition harness as showin in the second link posted ....

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112283&highlight=turbo+swap

http://www.yadamnfool.com/turbo_z_conversion/s130_zxt_to_s30_z.htm

 

i really suck at wireing .i need little help:ugg:

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The turbo oil pressure sender unit sends a different signal than the NA one. I had that same problem. I used the turbo sender and the NA gauge. I then put my NA sender unit on the turbo block and the gauge reads properly.

 

that's not good that your dash wiring link fried. You should have only one wire plugged into that plug just up from the ECU. One yellow wire from the coil.

 

As for the not cranking problem, your guess seems good. The green spot. It doesn't really say if it should be grounded or have power. I think grounding is more safe.

By the ECU, that single wire with insulation and a plastic single spade connector on the end; leave it unplugged. It doesn't really go anywhere anyway.

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But what of the single yellow wire .it says 12v power is needed to that wire.. green should be ground....... YW should run to the coil . is this only for the older z cars 78 and under s130's? or is it the same for all ?....

 

ether way i have to make a block off plate for the throttle body

or swap back to the turbo one becuase of the vac leak ..so to anyone that read my throttle body stuff ..dont try it unless you make a thin spacer out of sheet metal .without it , it will leak right where it hooks on to the

intake. a thin sheet metal spacer should stop this from happening .also the throttle is to short and hard to deal with .:icon56:ya ya bleach you where right!

 

so ya i dont have a clue when i come to wireing i can turn wreaches all day but i lack in the wiring zone .she ran good and strong... didnt seem like anything was messed up in the block or head .iam going to go mess her .

 

if anyone has any ideas why it wont fire over with the key

post them up .....:icon15:

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OK SWAPED throttle bodys .

swap oil sender units .

 

this ground that hooks to the j tube .at least that is where i thought it went ..i moved it to the block .i think the j tubes powder coating wasnt letting signal though . what does this ground go to ? and would it blow a fuse able link , if singal wasn't going though ........... ground.jpg

 

i trayed to turn the key again and it blue out a fuseable again .

something is wrong somwhere :icon51:

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why does it blow this fuseable link the second the key is turned on ?

what is this one for ???????????????????

 

i color matched the wires yellow to yellow .black white to black white

green to green ?????????????????????????????????????? is this right ???????wireingsetback001.jpg

 

 

iam unsure about all these they go to the auto trany left side

 

wireingsetback003.jpg

 

 

inhibitor realy ?????????? do i just unpulg it ? or leave it alone ?

wireingsetback002.jpg

 

wireingsetback005.jpg

 

do i POWER the green wire becauce my car is a gL .or GROUND it ?

 

what about the yellow next to the green shouldnt that be ran to the ignition?

wireingsetback006.jpg

 

wireingsetback013.jpg

 

 

iam looking though haynes left and right ......

i cant figure out why it wont turn over with the key and why i blows the one fuseable link everytime the key is turned on ...

i dont know what to do..

i dont want to fry the ecu or any other parts .....

its a 81 na car with a 81 turbo motor and harness both cars came with auto trany ......

it seems to me , that at frist i could here the fuel pump come on and kick off...

but now if i turn the key i here the fuel pump come on and then the fuseable link blows out . was doing the starter wire jump bad thing on these cars???

it did i fine to times , car started up and ran fine , the last time i did it ........

it poped the link and now it just pops the link everytime the key is turned on .

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It's late and dark, and i'm leaving for the weekend at the crack of dawn. But if you're still having issues on monday I'll take my camera out and take good pics of all the connectors on my running ZXT for you. It won't help you figure out what all the NA harness stuff is but it'll at least show you how the turbo car was setup for sure.

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that sucks! Ok, the fusable link blow probably because some power wire is grounding out. Short circuit!

 

It appears you got the wiring correct. On the plug by the ECU, I did not hook up anything but the tach signal. One single wire. yellow/white like you have. Of course, my plug has 8 connections instead of six. I have 1982 car/83 turbo engine. That won't make a difference. You don't need any other power wires hooked up there. The green thing maybe for your auto tranny that was there.

 

Jump starting the car shouldn't do anything that I know of. The safety switch should only keep the starter from engaging.

 

You have a pair of wires for the knock sensor which I see are plugged in.

One connection for the oil sender

and then the head temp sensor

The rest are extra. A couple of thsoe are for your cruise control which you removed as I did too.

 

Make sure none of those extra wires are touching the body. Maybe one has power and is hitting the metal frame which blows the fusable link. Does your fusable link box cover say what the circuits are for?

 

Your wiring behind the battery looks good. Not having a power wire plugged in (like the blue one) would certainly not blow a link. The ground wire on the manifold is fine. I had 3 grounds right there and put them all on the manifold. They are for various sensors.

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HAYNES DI . for 81 na ....shows it being a little differnt from 81 turbo ...

in like to spots ...as soon as i track it down ..or figurer it out fully i will post ..i can see why ..i just have to figure out what to do about it......

 

i mite scan the 81 dia for both na and turbo in to the computer and then i would beable to show you ..it so hard for me to explain it .

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