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L28e To L28et Swap

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yes yes Thank U BLEACH your wiring drawing worked great .,..

iam on the right wirer for the coil .!

 

down pipe is ready for welding have to wait untell gray getts off work around 6pm to have it welded up he is the only one that knows how to set this welder up!

 

going to go finsh the injectors and install this new clutch master if it shows up at the parts store .if not i wont get to drive it untell that shows up .

 

iam going to run that hose to unless the bov i orderd shows up .

other than these last four things i think shes done {hopefully}

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turned the key ...and its acting like its in grear ? i am sure that its the in gear switch .how do i turn it off so i can get it to fire over ?????????????

 

 

To anyone that has done a trany swap from AT to MAN how do i get the trany switch for the auto to turn off ???????????????

 

IAM SO ICHING TO MAKE ITS HAPPEN I HAVE A GOOD FEELING MY ECU GREEN LITE

POWERS ON EVERYTHING IS HOOKED UP ....I KNOW SOMEONE HAS THE ANWSER I NEED ?

COME ON I WANT TO SEE IF SHE WILL RUN .AT TRANY SWITCH SHUT

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turned the key ...and its acting like its in grear ? i am sure that its the in gear switch .how do i turn it off so i can get it to fire over ?????????????

 

 

anythat has done a trany swa[ from at to many how do i get the trany switch for the auto to turn off ???????????????

 

What do you mean it's acting like it's in gear? The starter won't engage at all?

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What do you mean it's acting like it's in gear? The starter won't engage at all?

 

yes

if you leave a AUTO in drive or low or second .

AND you turn the key it wont start .isnt this how all auto's are?

that is what it is doing everything comes on but it wont fire ..i can here it .

it make a anananan sound ..i use to forget all the time to stick in park , when i would turn the key it would do this ...................its doing that now for sure.

how to i make it think its in park ?

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so it runs ...i turned the key and used a wrench and jumped the starter ...she fired over and ran strong .check the timing it looked it like it was a 28 deg off top dead .trottle body has a bad vac leak .and tps needs ajusted .

she ran real good got her all hot and the gasket started to seal .

why wont it start with the key ? what did i do wrong ...so gray see's that the oil sender isnt showing that there was alot of oil presser ..he turn it off and then it wouldnt start again .i dont think there was anything wrong with the oil presserbecuase the temp didnt jump or act wierd and it sound real stong ..

i think the sender is messed up .but it wouldnt start again ..going to let it cool off for a bit and see if she will fire up again.

what did i do wrong on the wireing .i think my car is a GL this shows that the green with blue striped wire needs to be grounded

 

 

i think i need to ground the green and blue striped wire and i need to run a 12v power to the fully yellow one .and the tech wire is right becuase my tech was working fine ...i went out and tryed to start her again .she turn over but then the fuseable links box fryed a link ..it was the link for the dash wires .i dont think it likes being hot wired or ran with thoughs wires unhooked "??????????????????????????? {anyone}...

someone stop me if iam wrong but i think i need to hook up the wires in the ignition harness as showin in the second link posted ....

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112283&highlight=turbo+swap

http://www.yadamnfool.com/turbo_z_conversion/s130_zxt_to_s30_z.htm

 

i really suck at wireing .i need little help:ugg:

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The turbo oil pressure sender unit sends a different signal than the NA one. I had that same problem. I used the turbo sender and the NA gauge. I then put my NA sender unit on the turbo block and the gauge reads properly.

 

that's not good that your dash wiring link fried. You should have only one wire plugged into that plug just up from the ECU. One yellow wire from the coil.

 

As for the not cranking problem, your guess seems good. The green spot. It doesn't really say if it should be grounded or have power. I think grounding is more safe.

By the ECU, that single wire with insulation and a plastic single spade connector on the end; leave it unplugged. It doesn't really go anywhere anyway.

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But what of the single yellow wire .it says 12v power is needed to that wire.. green should be ground....... YW should run to the coil . is this only for the older z cars 78 and under s130's? or is it the same for all ?....

 

ether way i have to make a block off plate for the throttle body

or swap back to the turbo one becuase of the vac leak ..so to anyone that read my throttle body stuff ..dont try it unless you make a thin spacer out of sheet metal .without it , it will leak right where it hooks on to the

intake. a thin sheet metal spacer should stop this from happening .also the throttle is to short and hard to deal with .:icon56:ya ya bleach you where right!

 

so ya i dont have a clue when i come to wireing i can turn wreaches all day but i lack in the wiring zone .she ran good and strong... didnt seem like anything was messed up in the block or head .iam going to go mess her .

 

if anyone has any ideas why it wont fire over with the key

post them up .....:icon15:

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OK SWAPED throttle bodys .

swap oil sender units .

 

this ground that hooks to the j tube .at least that is where i thought it went ..i moved it to the block .i think the j tubes powder coating wasnt letting signal though . what does this ground go to ? and would it blow a fuse able link , if singal wasn't going though ........... ground.jpg

 

i trayed to turn the key again and it blue out a fuseable again .

something is wrong somwhere :icon51:

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why does it blow this fuseable link the second the key is turned on ?

what is this one for ???????????????????

 

i color matched the wires yellow to yellow .black white to black white

green to green ?????????????????????????????????????? is this right ???????wireingsetback001.jpg

 

 

iam unsure about all these they go to the auto trany left side

 

wireingsetback003.jpg

 

 

inhibitor realy ?????????? do i just unpulg it ? or leave it alone ?

wireingsetback002.jpg

 

wireingsetback005.jpg

 

do i POWER the green wire becauce my car is a gL .or GROUND it ?

 

what about the yellow next to the green shouldnt that be ran to the ignition?

wireingsetback006.jpg

 

wireingsetback013.jpg

 

 

iam looking though haynes left and right ......

i cant figure out why it wont turn over with the key and why i blows the one fuseable link everytime the key is turned on ...

i dont know what to do..

i dont want to fry the ecu or any other parts .....

its a 81 na car with a 81 turbo motor and harness both cars came with auto trany ......

it seems to me , that at frist i could here the fuel pump come on and kick off...

but now if i turn the key i here the fuel pump come on and then the fuseable link blows out . was doing the starter wire jump bad thing on these cars???

it did i fine to times , car started up and ran fine , the last time i did it ........

it poped the link and now it just pops the link everytime the key is turned on .

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It's late and dark, and i'm leaving for the weekend at the crack of dawn. But if you're still having issues on monday I'll take my camera out and take good pics of all the connectors on my running ZXT for you. It won't help you figure out what all the NA harness stuff is but it'll at least show you how the turbo car was setup for sure.

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that sucks! Ok, the fusable link blow probably because some power wire is grounding out. Short circuit!

 

It appears you got the wiring correct. On the plug by the ECU, I did not hook up anything but the tach signal. One single wire. yellow/white like you have. Of course, my plug has 8 connections instead of six. I have 1982 car/83 turbo engine. That won't make a difference. You don't need any other power wires hooked up there. The green thing maybe for your auto tranny that was there.

 

Jump starting the car shouldn't do anything that I know of. The safety switch should only keep the starter from engaging.

 

You have a pair of wires for the knock sensor which I see are plugged in.

One connection for the oil sender

and then the head temp sensor

The rest are extra. A couple of thsoe are for your cruise control which you removed as I did too.

 

Make sure none of those extra wires are touching the body. Maybe one has power and is hitting the metal frame which blows the fusable link. Does your fusable link box cover say what the circuits are for?

 

Your wiring behind the battery looks good. Not having a power wire plugged in (like the blue one) would certainly not blow a link. The ground wire on the manifold is fine. I had 3 grounds right there and put them all on the manifold. They are for various sensors.

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HAYNES DI . for 81 na ....shows it being a little differnt from 81 turbo ...

in like to spots ...as soon as i track it down ..or figurer it out fully i will post ..i can see why ..i just have to figure out what to do about it......

 

i mite scan the 81 dia for both na and turbo in to the computer and then i would beable to show you ..it so hard for me to explain it .

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she now starts :icon44:

starts everytime .

i need to ajust a bunch of stuff ...i think there is a vac leak or somthing because i cant rev past 2100rpm with it starting to cut out ..

oil presser is good now .idle screw needs cleaning and ajusted .

exhaust from the cat "test pipe" and back NEEDS TO go back on so that could be part of why it wont rev out ?...on the ecu plug i had to ground the the green and blue striped wire and powerd the yellow .when i would turn the i key i could hear the fuel pump kick on but it wouldn't fire over .no start signal..in the turbo DI FROM "haynes"..it shows that the starter is ran differntly on the na car and part of it plugs into the inhibitor relay .

at one point i was making that relay freak out ...

SO i walked over like the matrix and said "inhibit This" and pulled it .

i then ran and magic button :icon44:

and she fired right over ..right way alot faster and clearner sounding than the Na motor. after some ajusting she should run good ....

idles is strong and head sounds real good no knocking or wired sounds from the block or turbo .all in all this was funny but ITS alot of time and money ...

 

UPDATE

went out and she fired up strong ....idle is great

can not rev past 2000 something , without it cuting out ? vac leak?

 

runs.jpg

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thanks man ...

 

on the little box next to the coil .. i had that black and white striped wire

pluged into the resitor on there then grounded that resitor was ran to the na harnees ....

it was wrong ..

it would blow my fuel pump realy fuseable link everytime i turned the key on ..after it shorted out that ground i figured it out .wierd the na car harness is just a little differnty setup ....

ya something up with vac stuff .

i tryed hooking and unhooking the turbo vac valves box .No change .

i think she aprking right for sure and the injectors are fireing right for sure .i turned the timeing back to 10 deg off top dead .using a timing lite .

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two of those extra wires to the transmission are probably the neutral/park start switch. It is a switch that is only grounded when the automatic tranny is in park or neutral. Since you have a manual, these two wires can be permanently connected together. (or if you mess with inhibitor relay, like you said, that probably took care of it, too!)

 

looking good btw

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oh ya, your engine looks real nice. Good engine compartment too.

 

Well, I had a known bad turbo AFM and I swapped it on one time to see what it did. It had a slight stumble and at idle and then wouldn't rev past about 2200 rpm. Maybe you should dissasemble the AFM and carefully clean off the front and back of all the boards inside.

 

I don't think the TPS is a problem in this case... I mean, just make sure the connector is clean and dry but I'm sure it already is. Fuel pressure should be 32 at idle.

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happy birthday TO me .!

 

going to do some tuning ...crank angle sensor .we ajusted it side to side but not up and down iam going to read the book and see if its right or not. they aren't that greatest z parts ..iam looking for a 82 or 83 dissy ..

just havnt had any luck i bid on one but was out bid right way .

for sure iam going mess with the afm ..i have it mounted and little wierd so iam forsure messing around with it .

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I meant to ask you about your air/fuel guage.

I hooked mine up and it never has worked. When I connected my new O2 sensor I crimped on a pair of stock ZX connections. One I hooked the ECU to and the other I plugged the gauge into. If that doesn't work for the gauge then how could it work for the ECU?

the last little light by the rich section stays on solid no matter what... even with the signal wire unplugged. It was that way for a couple weeks and now the gauge is just dead. Do you think I have a faulty gauge?

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ya mine is hooked in the same way yours is ...it was working fine on the NA motor.....i hooked it in the same way as befor .i was wonderig if mine was hooked up right .....or mabe just this ecu signal is a little slower .i dont know .mabe your gauge is broke .mine doesnt swing back and forth untell iam driving ..on warm up it ,as the car getts hotter the spot will change .its only when i drive that is starts swing....i had three na ecu's

when i would switch one out i would always hook my gauge up ..each ecu actted a little differnt from the other ...mabe turbo ecu's each act differntly when is comes to the pluse they send out .

 

 

 

Miss fire . crankangle piece of poop sensor .i hate timeing .

she starts and idles so good .but if i put load on her she starts missfireing ..i

i palyed with the stupied dissy and the crankangle sensor its a little better but not right .i was going to clean the afm as u said but ....

i had a oil problem, i had to work out frist.

mine line popped off ,to the oil cooler ..

when i was reving her ..i had oil everywhere :ugg: . had to get some fittings pressed on to the lines...What a mess That wAs .all better now but man oil everywhere right after i got her all clean .so lame .

so ya going to clean the afm and every connection .and see if that makes it better ..then go back to messing with the crank angle. ..there is a few things i wanted to know about .

 

#1 o2 sensor ..are they the same for TURBO as THE Na one .

iam using this na one i bought .the turbo one was gone when i got my motor .

 

#2 fuel pump iam still using the stock NA one that came with my car .

should i fined a turbo one or are they the same .

also iam using phyton injectors .they all are ticking and sounding like

there working great .. But i think there for NA z motors .

 

#3 head temp sensor.... iam useing the turbo one now , but i have a new one that i got for the na .can i switch it or is the signal differnt ?

 

there a few more but gray needs help putting the motor back into the AE.... i will be back

 

 

 

 

an hour or two later .......

 

i think i just figured out the problem ....

i messed my crank angle sensor and dissy turning it back and forth with no change on the timeing light hmhmhmhm

gray was watching my fuel ratio gauge it was running in the second rich bar at idle..

when reved the guage would drop from rich to leannnnnnnnnn .popopopopopopp .

i didnt see this befor .iam mind mind less stoner sometimes.lololol

....i dont think my injectors arent giving the motor the right fuel ratio .

along with my fuel pump?

SO i turned up my fuel presser ragulator to 40psi and it got alot better ...went for a drive and i could get alittle more rpm's with way less popping .....came back and turned it to 50psi ....went for a drive and i got her to 4000rpm with out it cutting out ...fuel.......

Turbo's need more of it ...

as soon as i start pushing boost it starts to stuggle and chop .....

so injectors and fuel pump ARE on the top of my list .......

..i thought it was spark ...but WITH just putting more fuel in the rail all the popping went away when reved not under load ... when the motor is underload its way worse .

for sure its not vacum becuase she is running 20 to 23 under 0

gray said and

i qoute .."it sounds like a skyline when she starts to spoll "

right at about 2800rpm .you start to here it ..its like a whistle ...

really though with the hybrid garrett turbo , tin saab down pipe and the way the pipe is ran under the drivers seatturbosawp020.jpg it does have a pretty awsome sound i want to here it at like 5300 rpm :eek:.

there is still lots to do to get it to that point ...and many things to figure out .

i dont think my gauge is faulty after this discovery .

so if yours isnt reading and just sitting still then i bet its toast.....

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pulled afm apart this eveing ...cleaned it and give the swipe arm a new spot to swipe ..noticed that the air fuel screw was set all the way in on the lean setting ..so i backed that out and its much better ..still not the right amount of fuel but better .... i can drive it , as long as i dont start stepping on her she wont buck or kick ..as soon as hit the boost zone its starts cutting out.

i if i drive carefully and watch the air fuel gauge ...

its fine but if to much gas is given guage drops to lean and then it will buck or kick ..

still wondering on that o2 sensor ? is its differnt from na to turbo ?

if it is i will go get one and try and see if that fixes it .

but iam pretty sure i need turbo injectors and fuel pump....

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the main weak link in the NA efi I think would be in the fuel pump. The turbo injectors are supposed to be good for 250hp and that would put the NA injectors around 200hp since they're not THAT much smaller. With the NA injectors you'd just be running a bit lean on the top end once you maxed out the injectors, not just suddenly cutting out under boost.

 

I'd say it's the afm still, but if the a/f ratio is good at lower throttle then it's probly something else. Hmm, could it still be a vacuume issue? I'm just throwing out ideas.

 

I could understand it possible being the fuel pump though, seeing as they're different units (at least from first hand experience).

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