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So you want to swap a ROTARY into your Z! (how-to)


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#41 dosquattro

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 07:28 AM

Instead of running the RE could you just run a complete 13B from a T2 and not have to worry about the premix gibber jabber? This is the swap I want to do once the L28E blows. I like sound and small package of the rotary and how far you can set it back but this premix stuff kinda changes my mind. But this is just for the RE or would this be for any 13B?

#42 auxilary

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 07:52 AM

yes, you can do that. the problem is you'll need to retain the rat's nest of wiring and sensors that are included for smog equipment and such, in order to run the stock ECU.

you're also limited on power output because the stock ECU cannot control high rate flow injectors, should you want more power.
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#43 dosquattro

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 10:48 AM

What are the limits of the stock ecu? Since I'm not looking for a monster rotary. I mean how much of a weight loss is gained from 13b over the L28? Not to mention the better weight distribution. You might not be able to get alot out of the stock ecu but when you count the weight loss, and better placement you can count that into the use of the stock ecu equation

#44 auxilary

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 11:20 AM

a 13b longblock without accessories is about 180-190 lbs. tranmissions is about 90-100lbs. turbo, intercooler, alt, starter, pulleys (no ac/ps) tacks on another 100lbs or so.

stock injectors are 550cc for both primaries and secondaries. stock ecu can support 720cc injectors, if memory serves. past that i tihnk you have to go piggy back or stand alone. Remember, the trick to having a "reliable" turbo rotary is cooling, heat dissipation, and a fuel system running rich
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#45 Gollum

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 04:44 PM

So are the 400+hp RX7s out there running premix or different standalones? Or are they just running leaner than they should?

Sounds like a hassle and a hazard to run remix in a tank system that wasn't designed for it. But I know you know what you're talking about aux, wich is why I ask :-D

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#46 Alex_V

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 08:35 PM

Something to think about, I was reading a while back some guy on rx7club converted his mecanical oil injection pump to use an external tank. Then he ran some oil that bruned better and oiled better and ran like 50:1 premix like one a month.

Sounded like it was perfect as you didnt have to worry about burning engine oil or clogging fuel injetors and filters with oil. Or mixing it every time you fill up. Something to consider if you can still do that.


So nobody saw that then?

~Alex

#47 Gollum

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Posted 01 November 2006 - 10:56 PM

You never stated what he was using to control the oil injection, though I admit I don't fully understand the process anyways. And do you know how many rx7 owners do this? You mention only one but I know there's tons of decently modified rotory cars out there.

But don't feel neglected, I saw your post I just should have written a more complete post with more specific questions :D

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#48 auxilary

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 08:35 AM

It essencially functions like a 2stroke, so pre-mix does not harm anything. In fact, you run pre-mix designed for 2 strokes in it. Sure, it's a pain to measure it out, and occasionally you have to clean the injectors... But you never have to worry about the metering oil pump failing and causing engine failure.

There are external setups as mentioned above to pump oil from a separate reservoir rather than crank case, commonly found in aircraft rotary applications. Another advantage of using pre-mix is that you can run synthetic oil in the crank case.
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#49 randy 77zt

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Posted 02 November 2006 - 11:56 AM

i dont see why people see using 2 stroke oil as hassle -its just that they are not used to using it.i have a 22' speed boat with a 300hp mercury outboard.it has a separate 3 gallon oil tank and you can run about 5-6 tanks of gas as long as the oil tank is full.back in 1st gen rx7 days my cousin had old rx7.it burned about 1 qt every 500 miles.i would much rather have an oil tank than run the crankcase out of oil.2 stroke oil is designed to burn so it burns much cleaner.the cheapest good oil is yamaha watercraft oil-you goto dealer with a 1 gallon jug or 5 gallon jug and buy in bulk at $15 a gallon.the redline full synth i run in my boat is $35 a gallon.i would suspect that good oil will make the rotor seals last longer.run 2 stroke oil through fuel injectors does not plug them -mercury marine runs the oil through the injectors no problem.i just sent the injectors on my boat engine to rc engineering for a flow test and clean and the injectors were within 2.6% of each other when they got there.

#50 Guest_NISSAN4EVER_*

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 08:47 PM

This is really really REALLY dumb lol, a true waste or time, money and space lol........... blasphemy

#51 olie05

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 09:27 PM

This is really really REALLY dumb lol, a true waste or time, money and space lol........... blasphemy


Last time I checked This was HYBRIDZ, not STOCKZ... aka zcar.com.
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#52 Gollum

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 09:50 PM

wow... 1st post. SMOOTH move NISSAN4EVER... Do me a favor and read something before you try to speak, it might help you a bit.

I'll be suprised if he lasts 10 posts at this rate. Oh well.

If you DON'T want to get baned, you'll want to study the rules of the board.

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#53 Alex_V

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 10:21 PM

eh nobody pay attention to him and he'll go away.

As for the oil pump mod. As far as I read it was on one of the older engines that had a mecanical MOP, and he modified it to feed off a tank mounted in the corner of the firewall and fender. It also has to be above the pump so gravity feeds it.

I believe he used a winshield washer resivor so he could use the low level warning. But I want to say it was yellowing so there was talk of a metal tank with the sensor grafted in....

The point was to run seperate tank so it wouldnt use crankcase oil and have the option of running the cleaner burning 2 stroke oil or cheap 4 stroke oil, what ever your prefrence is.

Thats pretty much the extent of the mods, I dont remember the specifics but its a great option to running premix. I would probably remix as Ive seen some great results with that. My friend tore an engine that used premix and it looked like it didnt have much wear at all.

Then again I cant argue the benifits of the MOP as I dont have any idea on how it works. Im a rotary fan Ive just never owned one, but I do want a 2ed gen soon...

Randy- I agree with people not being used to it. Its just people expecting it to be exactly like a piston engine.

~Alex

#54 auxilary

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 11:45 AM

This is really really REALLY dumb lol, a true waste or time, money and space lol........... blasphemy


I bet your mom said the same thing about you when you were born. Probably got slapped with a littering fine too.

Mods, don't ban him. This could prove to be entertaining
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#55 auxilary

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 11:47 AM

Then again I cant argue the benifits of the MOP as I dont have any idea on how it works. Im a rotary fan Ive just never owned one, but I do want a 2ed gen soon...


mop basically pumps small amount of crankcase oil and squirts it into the combustion chamber to lube the sidewalls for apex seals (chrome finish). So without MOP, you have to run 2stroke premix to lube them
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#56 SR240Z

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 04:41 PM

ok sorry guys, little off topic, but ive got a 13B Turbo II engine and trans sitting in my garage if anyone wants to take it for $1100?

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#57 Owen

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 05:42 PM

eh nobody pay attention to him and he'll go away.

As for the oil pump mod. As far as I read it was on one of the older engines that had a mecanical MOP, and he modified it to feed off a tank mounted in the corner of the firewall and fender. It also has to be above the pump so gravity feeds it.

I believe he used a winshield washer resivor so he could use the low level warning. But I want to say it was yellowing so there was talk of a metal tank with the sensor grafted in....

The point was to run seperate tank so it wouldnt use crankcase oil and have the option of running the cleaner burning 2 stroke oil or cheap 4 stroke oil, what ever your prefrence is.

Thats pretty much the extent of the mods, I dont remember the specifics but its a great option to running premix. I would probably remix as Ive seen some great results with that. My friend tore an engine that used premix and it looked like it didnt have much wear at all.

Then again I cant argue the benifits of the MOP as I dont have any idea on how it works. Im a rotary fan Ive just never owned one, but I do want a 2ed gen soon...

Randy- I agree with people not being used to it. Its just people expecting it to be exactly like a piston engine.

~Alex


The MOP has to be modified, unless you buy one from somewhere like Atkins Rotary. I'm premixing cuz my engine mount doesn't leave enough space for the MOP.
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#58 auxilary

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 01:08 PM

ernie, it's a purist. he can shove his ideas up his rectum for all i care :)

oh, and paint my car!
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#59 auxilary

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 09:24 AM

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Some slightly old pics. Fuel system. I've routed all lines since, and all that is left is the return line to the tank and secondary fuel injectors to be installed.

Top pic has 2 fuel rails in parallel setup, -8an feeding into 2 -6an rails, going back to an aeromotive a1000 afr with an FP gauge, and single return to the fuel cell.

the bottom pic is gravity feed from sump via -8an to a 60micron filter to walbro 255lph fuel pump to 10micron summit filter to fuel rails
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#60 jfairladyz

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Posted 05 December 2006 - 04:58 PM

I just wanted to chime in and give :2thumbs:




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