mono Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Thanks BfO! Excellent pics of the process. What gauge aluminium did you use? I have read all the posts about fabbing your own, but was just hoping someone had a spare set they could sell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I believe I used .090 aluminum. Rather than use a bead roller i filed and sanded ours to get a rounded edge.This way the backside is flat and applies even pressure on the covers to hopefully reduce potential for cracks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mono Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Thanks for the tip chelle. I'm in the process of "tweeking" a Simpson GTO dash from John Washington. Using your old posts as a guide. Is your car on ebay (3/1)? I thought it was sold last time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mono Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 "Bueller?... Bueller????..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fauxre Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 It's not beautiful yet, but it is road worthy. California registration/title is next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mono Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) Very cool, Fauxre!!! I noticed you've been on one of the "Hot Rod" forums recently as well. Keep up the great build!!! Edited April 9, 2013 by mono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fauxre Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Thanks mono! Yeah, those hot rod guys are great... especially when it comes to horsepower. A lot of good fabricating info there as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) Looking great Wes. I decided to get off my rump and get some thing done also. Finished removing all the fuel & brake lines. Then, with the help of a couple of buddies, I test fitted the front and rear sections. Hoping to start assembling the suspension components this week. I also put my Pantera sytle hatch on for a visual effect. I still have not 100% convinced myself of which hatch type I will use. Edited April 12, 2013 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 (edited) Great to read some activity on this thread. Congratulations to the folks making progress. I’ve been doing my bit – the wider tubs and rocker panels are finally installed, including 'stiffening brace', and I’ve got the engine bay and interior painted, plus the stonechip applied. Edited April 13, 2013 by Boy from Oz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Good on ya! BFO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fauxre Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Keep those pics comin' fellas. The cars look great. Ken, that Pantera hatch is intriguing. A one of a kind look for sure if you decided to go for it. BfO, that is some serious fabin'. Did you bend those rockers up yourself? Impressive!! Soooo.... I went to the AHA Fun Under the Sun show in Pomona on Saturday. I haven't gone since 2008 when I picked up my VR kit from John W. when it was still being held at Knotts Berry Farm. Although I love the new venue, it's right in front of the NHRA museum, I have to say I was quite disappointed with the show. There were less than 50 cars on display, and I only saw three companies touting their products. As usual, the Cobra was well represented, but the second largest group were the four GTOs. I snapped a few pics. This one was pretty clean. The others were much older builds and their ages were showing. They were clearly driven... a lot... and their fit and finish reflected it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Wes; the Pantara hatch, as received, is flimsy and warped. I am thinking of modifying it by doing the following: 1. Reinforce the entire hatch to reduce the possibility of bad vibrations that can occur from interior harmonics. 2. Pin the entire hatch with 4 corner dzus type fasteners to enable the entire hatch to be removed when desired. 3. Cut out and make a new "trunk style" opening in the flat center section and hinge that for normal access. Anybody have any suggestions for hatch hinges? I am thinking of some sort of exposed hinges that would either be chromed or powder coated. Yesterday I cutout the intake area, and the "gills", fitted the turn signal lights, trimmed parts to fit to the Z body, I am diverting to remove and test the windshield wiper motor so i do not bury it and have to remove the cowl section in the future when it might be more inconvenient. Today I will be trimming out the upper 3 "d" vents and fitting the headlight hardware. It is nice that the buckets are molded in so it is just a bit of drilling the adjuster holes and fabbing a spring retainer. Still having fun For the engine (RB25DET) I removed the main pulley and fitted timing magnets for the hall sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 (edited) Question for the Group. I am having a few issues trying to fit the fiberglass cowl section up close to the windshield. Anybody want to share how or if they worried it? This probably does not apply to John Washington's Reaction Research kit (i might be wrong) but more to the Scorpion, Alphabet, McBurnie,Thunder Ranch kits. I am trying to fair in the cowl area tight to the windscreen and leave the windscreen vents open with maybe a 1/8" to 3/16" consistent gap. Do we build up with glass to fill the gap, use soft body filler, use a rubber gasket, bulb seal, ignore it, what? Edited April 18, 2013 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Ken – I’m not sure exactly what you mean by ‘windscreen vents’, perhaps a photo might assist on that point. I think I’m going to have a similar issue with the ‘Puckett’ kit and I will be using fiberglass to build it up rather that body-filler – I know filler is pretty impressive stuff these days but I prefer a good thick fiberglass edge. Is the windscreen in your car? I took a long time to detail fit my Simpson dash (John Washington), including converting to RHD, only to find it interfered with the windscreen rubber, so make sure the windscreen seal is fitted if you start to modify in this area. My first kit (make uncertain) retained the original cowl so is it possible to cut away the fiberglass cowl on your kit and replace it with the OEM as an alternative approach? … Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 (edited) Ken – I’m not sure exactly what you mean by ‘windscreen vents’, The (5) 25mm (1") breather slots directly in front of the windshield gasket on the outside of the car, not inside. I am not sure if these vents are to allow moisture drainage or cabin air venting. Perhaps not all models have them. (1973 240z). perhaps a photo might assist on that point. I misplaced my camera but perhaps i can get a reasonable sot with my iphone. I think I’m going to have a similar issue with the ‘Puckett’ kit and I will be using fiberglass to build it up rather that body-filler – I know filler is pretty impressive stuff these days but I prefer a good thick fiberglass edge. I am leaning to building up with FG as well. Is the windscreen in your car? Yes I took a long time to detail fit my Simpson dash (John Washington), including converting to RHD, only to find it interfered with the windscreen rubber, so make sure the windscreen seal is fitted if you start to modify in this area. My first kit (make uncertain) retained the original cowl so is it possible to cut away the fiberglass cowl on your kit and replace it with the OEM as an alternative approach? … Probably not and ,as you suggested,a photo might help. Just a thought. Just took a few photos and am now thinking this is not a big deal but I still would like comments. For reference the gap is approx. 20mm (5/8"), the tape marks the location of those noted vents.. Edited April 18, 2013 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boy from Oz Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 (edited) Those slots are fitted with rubber inserts and there are five corresponding tongues on the OEM cowl which slip in as part of the cowl mounting process. I think I'll probably go with adding 15mm or so to that edge - first thoughts! I've attached a photo of my old kit showing no cowl and one of a friend's car with it fitted. An issue I see with this approach is that the bonnet (hood to you) needs to have a back edge profile to match the OEM cowl. Edited April 18, 2013 by Boy from Oz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 (edited) DOH!!! I had forgotten that since i am not using my original 240z cowl. Thanks for the brain start!! Edited April 19, 2013 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Ok the last 3 days have been productive. most of my suspension is done. need to install the front hubs and rotors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 (edited) Ok the last 3 days have been productive. most of my suspension is done. need to install the front hubs and rotors. Edited April 22, 2013 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kclank Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) Finished up the front suspension today. going to stop for awhile and get ready to return to California for a bit. I guess I just have to work on my 928 for a bit. hee hee. Edited April 23, 2013 by Kclank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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