Jump to content
HybridZ
Duke

250 GTO Owners Thread

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I am a newbe. We are just finishing-up our Alfa-One, on a 74 260Z, stretched 4.5 inches, Powered by a BMW V-12, w/ 4 Weber Carbs, Aluminum Flywheel w/ Stage II clutch, 280 Z LS Rear end, Toyota 4runner 4 wheel discs and a ZF Dog Leg, 5 speed Transmission, and Porsche Power Steering Rack, (Hi-end everything, to be brief). We have just gotten the car back from the paint shop,( silverstone/ with a silver strip).
 We had bought a Refurbished set of Borrani RW 3801 wheels and Splined hubs from MWS in GB. but the Deep offset of the RW 3801 wheels will not work on the front, so two of the wheels are currently posted on Evil bay, ( perfect and correct for the rear), and are looking for a more correct, lip laced wheels for the front. There are a couple of Videos on U tube, done during to build process. (go to Datsun Ferrari 250GTO, Weber or something such as). Regards all, Bob Lesher in Astoria Oregon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After all  the work you did, are you ready for people to tell you the car is a "fake" or a "Nissan kit car?"  There are basically no armchair car enthusiasts that will appreciate a well-made anything, especially when they expect to see a $50 million car...

Edited by TomoHawk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome 1alfanatic,

 

Sorry I can't help with the wheels.  Most of us with wire wheels run custom Dayton wheels.  Nice wheels but they are not Borrani's.  Sounds like a very interesting project so how about posting a few pictures? 

 

BTW, Chelle, who posted above, has a beautiful Z based GTO with the longer wheelbase and BMW V12.  She built it herself and is quite an enthusiast, so if you had any questions, I am sure she would be willing to answer them. 

 

Ferrari_32

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all, I am a newbe. We are just finishing-up our Alfa-One, on a 74 260Z, stretched 4.5 inches, Powered by a BMW V-12, w/ 4 Weber Carbs, Aluminum Flywheel w/ Stage II clutch, 280 Z LS Rear end, Toyota 4runner 4 wheel discs and a ZF Dog Leg, 5 speed Transmission, and Porsche Power Steering Rack, (Hi-end everything, to be brief). We have just gotten the car back from the paint shop,( silverstone/ with a silver strip).

 We had bought a Refurbished set of Borrani RW 3801 wheels and Splined hubs from MWS in GB. but the Deep offset of the RW 3801 wheels will not work on the front, so two of the wheels are currently posted on Evil bay, ( perfect and correct for the rear), and are looking for a more correct, lip laced wheels for the front. There are a couple of Videos on U tube, done during to build process. (go to Datsun Ferrari 250GTO, Weber or something such as). Regards all, Bob Lesher in Astoria Oregon

Welcome!! Isn't this the car that was listed with several Alphas on "Bring a trailer" in the Pacific northwest a couple months ago?  Glad to see you're digging in on the car. Also I love the Montreal! I have a couple Urracos, which share the same distributor cap :) Your car is looking great! Please post more!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, did you get ignition system figured out? I followed the discussion on one of the BMW forums and saw Fred with the V12 Vette was showing his setup with 12 individual coils. I run 6 dual plug coils and waste spark (fire coils on both the compression and exhaust stroke), which means any ignition computer that can fire 6 coils can manage it. And I batch fire injectors To fire 12 + injectors individually i would need to either get an EFI technologies ECU (almost $5k) or treat the engine as 2 six cylinders and run a computer for the left bank, and another for the right bank.. even with the EFI Tech ECU, you still have to use waste spark.. Short of a custom configured MoTeC M880, with 12 ignition outputs (for around $3k), waste spark is necessary unless you want to treat the engine like 2 six cylinders.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Following on from the movie  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50042-250-gto-owners-thread/?p=1182927 I've put together a book about the build.

 

I just started out keeping notes for myself and any future owners about what went into the build for later maintenance and repair. Friends wanted to know how it was progressing so the notes morphed in quarterly journal entries.

 

Someone suggested I compile it into a photo-book and as it turned out I think it gives added provenance to the car.

 

post-1266-0-22948500-1499911375_thumb.jpg

 

post-1266-0-20148200-1499911290_thumb.jpg

 

post-1266-0-69755500-1499911331_thumb.jpg

 

Just a thought for those undertaking builds.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think that 12 cylinder engine is wrong for the car, IMO.  It's too big and too heavy.  A lightweight 3 Litre V-8 with a short stroke would be more fitting, IMO, as it would be closer to  the original  specification. 

Edited by TomoHawk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Following on from the movie  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50042-250-gto-owners-thread/?p=1182927 I've put together a book about the build.

 

I just started out keeping notes for myself and any future owners about what went into the build for later maintenance and repair. Friends wanted to know how it was progressing so the notes morphed in quarterly journal entries.

 

Someone suggested I compile it into a photo-book and as it turned out I think it gives added provenance to the car.

 

attachicon.gifPhotobook pages 3.jpg

 

attachicon.gifFirst edition 1s.jpg

 

attachicon.gifFirst edition 2s.jpg

 

Just a thought for those undertaking builds.

 

I have a copy of this book and it is a huge coffee table book full of interesting and useful information.  If you are thinking of taking on a 240Z to Ferrari GTO project I would highly recommend you get a copy.  Peter (Boy from OZ) does some very interesting things in his build and comes up with some excellent good ideas.  

Edited by SpeedRacer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does it stioll exist?  I was going to add mine, but I don't think the GTORR is still online, for obvious reasons.

Yes and no.  I don't know what "for obvious reasons" means but John Washington has a little bit of the GTO Replica Registry (GTORR) on line as part of his Reaction Research site:    http://www.reactionresearch.com/gtorr/index.html

 

However, I think John is to busy with his other companies and endeavors so he hasn't done much with it. 

Edited by SpeedRacer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think that 12 cylinder engine is wrong for the car, IMO.  It's too big and too heavy.  A lightweight 3 Litre V-8 with a short stroke would be more fitting, IMO, as it would be closer to  the original  specification. 

 

The 12 weighs less than a cast iron Small Block Chevy V8.. I think mine was about 325lbs.. an 12 cylinder has a distinct sound and smoothness.. The original GTOs had an all aluminum (2.5 liter) SOHC V12.. the BMW is 5-6 liter, SOHC and external dimensions and weight are about the same as the Ferrari engine  :)  

 

Different strokes for different folks  :D (pun intended)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can it spin 8,000 RPM?

Nope, and neither can most V8s people put in this chassis.

 

6400 rpm stock, well blueprinted maybe 7000, which is more than most overhead valve, non race prepped, single cam engines as it has overhead cams.

 

I do want a Hartley type V8 for my black fiero .. that goes to 14k redline.. but the price still hurts my brain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Greetings GTO kit owners,

 

I have a GTO kit that I am restoring and modifying with LS1 and T56 of of 04 GTO.     post-55257-0-35239300-1503275757_thumb.jpg

 

I have re-enforced the chassis and replaced the floor boards.  I have started to finish the body (making the vents functional).  

 

I have a complete 2004 GTO w/T56 donor.  I could use any advice before I start pulling the donor apart.

 

Thanks

Willie

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to be able to post again. Thanks Brian.

 

I've made a few modification during the 12 month evaluation period prior to final painting. Here is the first.

 

During the build I had a Perspex rear window made as I needed to drill holes to mount it, which I couldn't do with a glass window. This made it easy to mount a rear window vent. I must admit I did this purely for appearance but as it turned out it dramatically lowered the cabin temperature on hot days - we have a few of them down here!

 

Rear_window_deflector_2s.jpg

 

Rear_window_deflector_4s.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/25/2018 at 9:30 PM, Boy from Oz said:

While I was rubbing it back for the final coat I added the radiused corner to the side windows.

 

YES!! Wonderful job!!! How did you modify the stock window frames? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Hi. I have made new frames but the radiused curves could, I presume, be created in the stock frame by a similar technique.

 

I made my own frames originally because I fitted sliding windows, unfortunately I soon learnt they had a serious design flaw. I had basically mounted them to the top of the lightweight fibreglass doors which I'd also made. At speeds over 100 km/h the pressure variation pulled the top of the window away from the bodywork as the fibreglass flexed. I've learnt that the guides which run down into the door not only facilitate the correct movement of the glass when it is lowered, but also provide a counter resistance point for the pressure on the glass when the window is up.

 

The original frame is marked in yellow and the new frame in blue.

Window_frame_Ver2.jpg

 

105_1708.jpg

 

I shaped the channel for the first set of frames to include a retaining lip but this time I simply used stock channel and glued the Bailey Channel to it - fingers crossed!

105_1698_s.jpg

 

With the door and frame located I positioned the 'side sections' in place and tack welded. If you intend to use original frames I'd suggest you lay it out on a piece of ply and use a series of nails either side of the frame to fix in in position, i.e. make a jig. You could then cut out the 90 degree section and replace it with three pieces of metal as per my approach. You'll have to first strip and then re-chrome the frame.

105_1706.jpg

 

105_1716.jpg

 

After removing the tacked frame it can be fully welded.

105_1749.jpg

 

One more trial fit as it distorts very easily during welding. A bit of warming with a torch allows for fine adjustment.

105_1751.jpg

 

A bit of trimming with Wiss snips and some linishing with a finger file sander and there you have it.

105_1763.jpg

 

105_1748.jpg

Edited by Boy from Oz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Another modification before final painting was to lower the front wheel arches.

 

I found I hadn't set the suspension with sufficient ground clearance and when I raised the ride height the lip of the guard (fender) created too big a gap above the top of the tyre.

 

I chamfered the edge of the existing guard on both sides and attached a section of corflute sheet.

105_1632_s.jpg

 

I applied several layers of matting, then removed the corflute and applied more layer from the inside

105_1637_s.jpg

 

I reattached the wheel and defined the new edge and sanded back.

105_1645_s.jpg

 

I applied 12mm fibreglass rope to recreate a firm edge.

105_1665_s.jpg

 

I little bit of hi-fill and some more sanding and it was ready for paint.

105_1666_s.jpg

 

Before. (i.e. with the raised ride height)

Modified_front_wheel_arch_1.jpg

 

After (same ride height as above)

Modified_front_wheel_arch_2.jpg

 

Edited by Boy from Oz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

You might try contacting Mark to see if he's still making the covers.

(Click on the arrow in the top right-hand corner)

The trims you'll have to have made. Not really that difficult for an experienced sheet-metal fabricator.

 

Good luck.

Edited by Boy from Oz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×