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Rumnhammer

Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide

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twistex    10

The way i have always hooked up newer nissan alternators such as rb ka and sr is. Get a nice sized red wire from starter/batt wire to the power on the alternator. Then the 2 wire single plug that goes into alternator you connect those 2 wires together as one and loop them straight to the possitive on the alternator. It should charge. If you want a charge light the thinner of the 2 wires you can wire to your dash. In my case i normaly dont have a stock dash in the cars i put these motors in :)

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bryan01    10

i wouldnt have been able to get my car running w/o chris's how-to and everyone should be able to get their rb running (from an electrical standpoint) from chris' posts in this thread ... thank you very much.

 

i've got a RB wiring comment/question i thought would go well in this sticky. i got into it a little bit with chris with this when i was doing my wiring for my instal but could never figure it out.

 

maybe i'm just ignorant of this, but why do people use ANY wiring from their 30 yr old z when it comes to the powering of their rb motor?

 

example, why would you wire the alternator using the z harness and have to go thru the voltage reg. deletion how-to when you can just use the skyline wiring the way it came? (assuming you get a wiring harness with your engine of course). another example is the tranny wires in chris' how-to. why would you use the Z tranny's wiring when you have the rb's?.

 

right now my engine is running and starts via some toggles and button inside. i think part of it may have to do with the gauges, but that still doesnt explain the Z to RB alternator wiring. assuming you were using aftermarket gauges and didnt need the Z sending units installed and wired in to the RB wiring, the RB should start and run under it's own power. you dont need anything from the Z to make it work and this is how i installed my engine. it was the same as if i had wired the motor up on the pallet it came on and started it up. i just think it's easier to rip out all the wiring and start from nothing "Z" and just use everything that the RB needs and was designed to use from the beginning.

 

the only thing i'm going to or have spliced into my RB harness are signals to the gauges. i followed most of chris's great how-to to get it running but all i did was provide power to the relays (fuel/eccs/fuel pump/ing), hook up the main power to a battery, and ground things that needed grounding. i take that back, i did cut into 1 wire, the starter power wire, at the starter b/c i didnt know where that wire ran to inside the car. other than that i didnt do anything from the alternator reg deletion or the tranny harness part or anything like that, just used the RB wiring.

 

 

??

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Ed260Z    17
maybe i'm just ignorant of this, but why do people use ANY wiring from their 30 yr old z when it comes to the powering of their rb motor?

 

I plan on doing a bit of both. My intent will be to make the the harness look as if the Z came with the RB in 74. I want the cleanest install possiable. I want to use the stock gauges, and when I can't I'll try an modify the A/M gauges to look stock. This is one very good idea. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119780

 

But If your not trying to keep the car looking stock I don't see why you would keep the Z's wires.

 

This thread is very well written, and will get you going pretty quickly. After that it's up to you to decide how far you want to go into the cars wiring.

 

I've spent hours looking over schematics trying to see which wires to keep, and which to delete. But man there are a heck of a lot of wires to go through. With hundreds, maybe thousands, of choices to consider.

 

Let's face it, are we really going to let that engine sit for a few months while we try and figure it out. Hell NO, I want to hear that baby roar yesterday!:burnout:

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Z U L8R    10

everyone i met could never get the tach adapter to work their tach. i got part from summit it's an msd tach translator doohicky part #8918. just tell them you're trying to get your autometer tach working for your deisel truck and you want the thing that taps on your positive injector wire, it's like $30, and you just tap that onto the little two wire plug that's by the ignitor, tap it on the white wire. my tach finally works perfectly. if you wire in an autometer tach and tap the ecm's tach signal you'll pop the resistor in the ecu. you can tap an safc2 on the 120 degree signal wire, and your tach as well, but at high rpm the signal's start overlapping and the tach doesn't read right, the safc will work though off the 120 degree. anyways just thought i'd mention it, since the tach adaptor's like $75 and the other thing's so much cheaper and works

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yo880    10

Z U L8tr, when you used the MSD adaptor for the - signal for the autometer tachometer, which cylinder setting did you use? 4/6/8?

 

and can you give me more detail on which wire it should clip over (i have a series 2 RB25DET, so i will need to try and locate it as it doesn't have an ignitor, they are o the individual coils)

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alexideways    12
Z U L8tr, when you used the MSD adaptor for the - signal for the autometer tachometer, which cylinder setting did you use? 4/6/8?

 

and can you give me more detail on which wire it should clip over (i have a series 2 RB25DET, so i will need to try and locate it as it doesn't have an ignitor, they are o the individual coils)

 

 

Take a look at the diagram I made on my post a bit earlier (#43)

 

Where you see the "shunt", this is a connector that just loops around and it's used by the dealership to plug a factory style timing light, you could probably tap your signal from there...

 

It's a big white wire that goes from your coil plug, attached on the rear of the coil cover, trough a splice, to a white connector with a little black box plugged on it that doesn't seem to have any purpose...

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Chris, just wondering if you are using the RB's dropping resistor? (the plug you're talking about goes to the injectors!) You really should use it if you're not RB's have low impedance injectors.....though I'm sure you are because it's running and all :)

Zmaster...it's really not hard to do this wiring, you just need patience (and a soldering iron) :o)

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Rumnhammer    20

Yeah, it's being used. an update the car finally runs great. In the end we pulled the wolf ecu out and used an Apex i Power fc. After trying the stock ecu and stock ecu's from other cars, and having the idle problem not go away, the Apex i power fc was plugged in and the idle problem was gone! I'm thinking the 90mm throttle body and intake manifold volume were confusing the stock ecu, because everything else was checked.

The injectors were changed to 550's and the car dynoed at 302rwhp. Now I just need to figure out the clunking in the rear end???

Chris Rummel

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Bishopsrock    10

EDit I just found out from someone answering a post as to what sender to replace the RB one with, you can skip the above step if you replace your RB sender with a toyota sender part #TS198 that goes in where the RB sender is and will make your stock Z gauge work.

Chris Rummel

 

Just to provide a little more info for people living in countries where the #TS198 isnt available - The Toyota Dealership Part Number is 83420-16020. In the UK this costs £22.88 plus VAT.

 

If you want to pull one then here are a few choices that it was fitted to:-

 

Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 88-91

Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 LE 88-91

Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 Le All Track 88-91

Toyota Camry 2.0 L4 DLX 88-91

Toyota Celica 2.0 L4 GT 86-89

Toyota Celica 2.0 L4ST 87-89

Toyota Celica 2.0 L4 GTS Sport 86-89

 

Hope this is helpfull.

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Rumnhammer    20

I'd say that it is pretty close, I'd have to check the manual for the ecu printouts to be sure. In the wiring though, it really shouldn't matter because you will be wiring up the same wires to run the car. ie all the wires that power up the ecu etc are wired up the same, just like installing different radios in a car, even though the radio will have different features you wire it into the car the same way.

hope this is understandable.

Chris Rummel

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voltron_boi    10

so does the ecu printout the same thing? i really want to no, before i buy the rb20 swap.i have a 75 280z, and i don't want to be paying 550 for the shop to do the wiring, when i can used this form to do it myself.i rather spend that 550 and get an rb25 instead if it isnt the same.

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Rumnhammer    20

if you have a choice between the RB20 and RB25 don't make your choice based on knowledge of the ecu pin out diagram. i would chose the 25 because it makes more power more easily and it comes with the proper tranny to handle as much power as you are willing to throw at it.

 

It is a simple matter to do a search or get a DVD RB manual to get copies of both printouts of the ecu pin outs. YOU WILL NEED TO DO THIS if you are undertaking this swap. If being able to interpret or read a ecu pin out is beyond your skill level, then the $500 would be money well spent.

Like I stated at the beginning of this thread, I posted this info with the understanding that the people attempting this job already have a good working knowledge of car electrical systems, reading schematics, etc.

If you have this knowledge then the wiring info I posted will make it very easy for you to do, if you don't then, you will need to pony up the cash, since if you screw up the wiring you can turn the swap into a serious headache, damage other wiring, ecu etc, or worse case senario end up with a half done swap that doesn't start run, and you will end up paying even more money, because it is a bigger pain for a pro to go in after the fact and sort out improperly done wiring and fix what is wrong AND get it running then it would have been for the pro to just do it right the first time. In effect if you attempt it and screw it up, you will end up paying more to get it right then if you had just paid someone in the first place.

Sorry if this sounds so harsh, but that is the reason I stated the disclaimer at the beginning. it also saves trying to sort out peoples wiring problems, later via email or whatever after they end up with a car that won't start and then try to have me figure it out on line. That just is a waste of time for everybody.

Chris Rummel

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Bishopsrock    10
Ok, now we are going to separate out the wires we are going to need to hook up, leave these long and cut the rest off short and tape them up.....

 

...lastly the main solid black ground, this is easy to see it consolidates all the grounds and ends in a ring terminal.....

 

RBZwire012.jpg

 

Im doing the swap without the inner half of the main white plug (as shown above) that connects the engine/ECU harness to the inner car wiring loom. Im connecting my RB26 engine harness to my 240z loom using an off the shelf simple 15 pin bullet connector. I will be soldering the wires onto the pins as well as crimping them.

 

I have all the other connections sorted now but cannot figure out for sure which wires from my two white engine harness plugs should go to earth - i.e. lead to the Main Solid Black Ground on the inner half of the white plug shown above.

 

Chris, please can you (or anyone in the know) define this to help those doing it without the in-car side of the loom like me?

 

Thanks

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Rumnhammer    20

On the in car harness section all the Solid Black wires go to ground and are all connected. Just make sure they are all SOLID black not black with white stripe or anything like that. Going from the ecu pin out If you don't have the inside harness, find the ones that are listed as ground and wire them to go to ground.

They are all interconnected anyway, so as long as they are listed from the ecu as ground or are solid black you can safely send them to ground or earth as they say in the UK :2thumbs:

 

I usually will run a ground wire from under one of the ecu case screws to ground as well to ground the ecu itself, since a lot of times in these swap cases, the ecu is held in place with zip ties or otherwise not well grounded.

Hope this helped Andy.

Chris Rummel

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Next you take the Tranny harnesses both Z and RB and use your oil pressure sender from the Z to that you connect the green wire like stock like this pic you can wire back the RB sender wire

 

 

Then connect the 2 starter signal wires Yellow for Z and black/white RB like in this pic

 

 

Next connect the reverse switch wires from the z harness to the sender wires for that on the RB harness and do the same for the neutral switch like in this pic

 

 

Excellent information here, thanks for your effort.

 

One section I am unable to quite follow though is the above regarding the transmission harnesses. I think it is just the wording as it is quite brief and not quite as descriptive with colours and locations.

 

Can someone please reword this for me? Is it referring to splicing wires and using both harnesses?

 

Thanks!

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Bishopsrock    10

Hi,

 

This is my first go at using pics so please stick with me if it doesnt work out.

 

Below is a pic of the dropping resistor taken off my R33 RB26DETT:-

 

65860b4590401.gif

 

Its purpose is to supply the injectors with a lower voltage than the car normally operates on. Im told that the reason for this is to enable the injectors to work properly with a weak battery so that the car will start.

 

Consequently, if you start your RB26DETT without a dropping resistor then you will fry your injectors by feeding them a higher voltage than they are designed to take - so its vital that you use it and connect it properly.

 

In the Skyline it connects directly into the engine relay box as in this pic below:-

 

dabeae4590404.gif

 

Please can anyone confirm how to wire the dropping resistor in?

 

The wiring diagram seems to show it providing power directly to pins 101, 103, 105, 110, 112, 114 of the ECCS. However, it looks like these wires run directly to the injectors themselves rather than coming from the dropping resistor?

 

Please can anyone clear this up for me?

 

 

Thanks

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