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Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide


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#41 Z U L8R

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Posted 22 December 2006 - 11:27 AM

Chris,
We discovered one of his coil packs wasn't working. And being a series 2 it doesn't already have an external ignitor, so I wired in a PTU from a Z32 and wired in a Grand National Coil /w msd ignition cables. I've noticed all the guys in Australia with 800+hp run this wasted spark set up, if you're interested in how to do it, I'll let you in on it since you've been such a help to me. Thanks again ;)
David

#42 Z U L8R

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Posted 26 December 2006 - 12:49 PM

Also be very careful about using the tach adapter. I believe the stock Z guage wants a 12v signal but if you have an autometer or other aftermarket tach that wants a negative pulse as the signal then you don't want to use a tach adapter. basically the tach adapter takes the negative signal and converts it to a 12v signal.

his autometer wanted a ground as the signal so before i read up on the tach adapters job i actually fried out the 52 ohm resistor in his ecu for the tach signal, which left me pissed about how the hell he was gonna get the safc2 tuned without the safc being able to read rpm. at which point i ran the safc2 to the 120degree cam angle sensor ecu pin, which there is 2 of, either green wire should work but i believe i used the 40 something one, i think it's 41 but i don't feel like checking the pinout right now. discarding the tach adapter altogether i spliced in his autometer guage and safc's green tach signal wire into that 120 ecu pin and voila.

my caution is to see if your particular autometer tach wants a 12v as the signal or a ground, cause i'm sure they make both. in the guage box there should be instructions that'll tell you. his had something on the back of the instructions that said "for old style ignition systems" and it had a picture of the signal wire going to the negative post on the external coil.

#43 Rumnhammer

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Posted 26 December 2006 - 01:39 PM

We used an Autometer, no worries there.
Chris

#44 alexideways

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 04:43 PM

I also have a series 2 engine, after quite a bit of searching the net, I finally determined, with my ECM P/N (23710 13V00), that the engine came from an 1996 Gts-t.

I also have only one relay.

One more thing is, in my harness, I only have 1 white dash plug.

Like Z U L8R, I don't have the big red wire in my dash plug.

I went one step further and chased down all the unused wires and removed them fom the harness.

I was left with 1 grey, 3 prong plug that goes in the TPS, I guess that was used for the cruise control as none of it's wires went to the ECM.

I also eliminated the wires that were spliced in other connections to simplify futur diagnostics.


I was also left with a black box marked:"AMP ASSY. WIPES, P/N 28510 26V00" and a 6 prong, white connector with 5 wires in it, all of this ended up being connected to nothing. I laso separated all the unused wires that came fron the dash plug to the ECM but, hav'nt cutted 'em off yet as I wan'a make sure of there function before I remove them entirerly.

#45 Z U L8R

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Posted 11 January 2007 - 07:01 PM

:D, basically i followed chris's lead, everything started smoothing out once i was working on it at the same time i was reading what he was saying, but my friend's 8 pin skyline plug where you spade connect the grey wire that ends up feeding the injectors 12v wasn't in that plug, instead of a typical 7 it only had six, so i traced the schematics and tapped it in to the funky shapped big grey plug that actually plugs into the injectors' harness, and powered it to the now thick grey wire right there and had no problems.

he ended up having a bad coil pack on cyl 1 so i also wired in an ignitor from a z32 and wired in the wasted spark set up buick grand national coil with msd 8.5mm spark plug wires. it's sexy :D. he still has his series 2 coil packs in which 5 are good so if you run into a misfire when you're all done he'll probably sell you a replacement for a fair price.

basically for now don't worry about the thick red wire, just follow chris's lead and power up the injectors and you should be fine. ya there should be a fake plug with no wires going to it on the tps and then a little short harness going off it to the 3 prong grey plug in which you'll get your 0-5v reference for throttle position.

#46 alexideways

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 03:20 PM

Hi, alexidewayz again so, I'm done tagging every function to every wire in the harness and I'm puzzled by a few things.

1-Why are the injector grounds all clustered in a brown connector?????

2-I have a purple plug on my intake manifold, it contains 1 solid yellow wire that goes to ???? on the chassis (the connector was cut off) and 1 solid grey wire that goes to PIN 36 in the ECM but, when I check the pinout that I have, PIN 36 is marked as (-) or not used.
WTH?
When I check the pinout from the RB26 wich shares the same ECM plug as the RB25, PIN 36 is marked as (IAT sensor sign. I guess, from the shape of the device, this could be it. See 1st thumbnail

3- I have some kind of a shunt, or I don't know what that was tapped to my power transisor control signal plug and I can't find where it was plugged. See 2nd thumb nail.

Thanks.

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#47 alexideways

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 06:54 PM

One thing that's good to know for those with a series 2 harness, when you look at the ECCS relay, you'll notice that it's marked as pin 3-5 being switched voltage and 1-2 being the coil but, when you look at the diagrams, it's the other way around.
Well, to be sure, I tested the relay and determined that the diagrams are right. Strange that they made a mistake like that, at the factory.

#48 alexideways

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 12:32 PM

...the thin grey wire that goes to the 8 pin skyline plug off the maf harness doesn't have the grey wire in it to feed ignition power to the fuel injectors from there. So i'm just gonna tap into it at the injector goofy lookin 8 post plug cause it does have the wire there.


I don't think you need to do this. The thick grey wire from the "goofy lookin' " 8 prong INJ. plug you are refering to goes right to (trough 2 splices) pin 45 "main IGN. power" so, I guess that in the series 2 they powered the injectors differently than series 1.

Here's a link to my tread where I asked a few questions and got a few answers too.http://forums.hybrid...5553#post725553

P.S.: :icon4: please note that in the diagrams, ECCS relay is marked as PIN 3-5 being coil & 1-2 being swiched pwr, THIS IS AN ERROR, as when you look at the relay itself, it's marked as the other way around. I checked the relay with a battery and jumpers and found out that every connection is good on the diagram, exept that they mixed the PIN numbers.

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#49 Z U L8R

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 06:31 AM

you could be right, i honestly didn't try to start the car to see if the injectors were getting power before i powered the injector harness plug. if they already were getting power then great, if they weren't..they are now LOL :D

#50 RB26powered74zcar

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Posted 24 January 2007 - 03:21 PM

Chris, can you advise me where I can run this brown plug?
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Does it do the same thing the "T" shaped plug did on the externally reg Z car alt.?

Should I run one of the wires in it to switched 12v, and the other to 12v batt post on the alt?

I'm goofed up here with my alt hook up. Please help!

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#51 twistex

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Posted 08 March 2007 - 09:37 AM

The way i have always hooked up newer nissan alternators such as rb ka and sr is. Get a nice sized red wire from starter/batt wire to the power on the alternator. Then the 2 wire single plug that goes into alternator you connect those 2 wires together as one and loop them straight to the possitive on the alternator. It should charge. If you want a charge light the thinner of the 2 wires you can wire to your dash. In my case i normaly dont have a stock dash in the cars i put these motors in :)

#52 bryan01

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Posted 08 March 2007 - 10:16 AM

i wouldnt have been able to get my car running w/o chris's how-to and everyone should be able to get their rb running (from an electrical standpoint) from chris' posts in this thread ... thank you very much.

i've got a RB wiring comment/question i thought would go well in this sticky. i got into it a little bit with chris with this when i was doing my wiring for my instal but could never figure it out.

maybe i'm just ignorant of this, but why do people use ANY wiring from their 30 yr old z when it comes to the powering of their rb motor?

example, why would you wire the alternator using the z harness and have to go thru the voltage reg. deletion how-to when you can just use the skyline wiring the way it came? (assuming you get a wiring harness with your engine of course). another example is the tranny wires in chris' how-to. why would you use the Z tranny's wiring when you have the rb's?.

right now my engine is running and starts via some toggles and button inside. i think part of it may have to do with the gauges, but that still doesnt explain the Z to RB alternator wiring. assuming you were using aftermarket gauges and didnt need the Z sending units installed and wired in to the RB wiring, the RB should start and run under it's own power. you dont need anything from the Z to make it work and this is how i installed my engine. it was the same as if i had wired the motor up on the pallet it came on and started it up. i just think it's easier to rip out all the wiring and start from nothing "Z" and just use everything that the RB needs and was designed to use from the beginning.

the only thing i'm going to or have spliced into my RB harness are signals to the gauges. i followed most of chris's great how-to to get it running but all i did was provide power to the relays (fuel/eccs/fuel pump/ing), hook up the main power to a battery, and ground things that needed grounding. i take that back, i did cut into 1 wire, the starter power wire, at the starter b/c i didnt know where that wire ran to inside the car. other than that i didnt do anything from the alternator reg deletion or the tranny harness part or anything like that, just used the RB wiring.


??

#53 Ed260Z

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Posted 27 March 2007 - 10:28 AM

maybe i'm just ignorant of this, but why do people use ANY wiring from their 30 yr old z when it comes to the powering of their rb motor?


I plan on doing a bit of both. My intent will be to make the the harness look as if the Z came with the RB in 74. I want the cleanest install possiable. I want to use the stock gauges, and when I can't I'll try an modify the A/M gauges to look stock. This is one very good idea. http://forums.hybrid...ad.php?t=119780

But If your not trying to keep the car looking stock I don't see why you would keep the Z's wires.

This thread is very well written, and will get you going pretty quickly. After that it's up to you to decide how far you want to go into the cars wiring.

I've spent hours looking over schematics trying to see which wires to keep, and which to delete. But man there are a heck of a lot of wires to go through. With hundreds, maybe thousands, of choices to consider.

Let's face it, are we really going to let that engine sit for a few months while we try and figure it out. Hell NO, I want to hear that baby roar yesterday!:burnout:

#54 G.I.jonas

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 04:51 PM

Now if only someone could do this write up for vg30dett...:icon29:
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#55 Z U L8R

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Posted 27 June 2007 - 04:45 AM

everyone i met could never get the tach adapter to work their tach. i got part from summit it's an msd tach translator doohicky part #8918. just tell them you're trying to get your autometer tach working for your deisel truck and you want the thing that taps on your positive injector wire, it's like $30, and you just tap that onto the little two wire plug that's by the ignitor, tap it on the white wire. my tach finally works perfectly. if you wire in an autometer tach and tap the ecm's tach signal you'll pop the resistor in the ecu. you can tap an safc2 on the 120 degree signal wire, and your tach as well, but at high rpm the signal's start overlapping and the tach doesn't read right, the safc will work though off the 120 degree. anyways just thought i'd mention it, since the tach adaptor's like $75 and the other thing's so much cheaper and works

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#56 tay-fu300zxtt

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Posted 22 July 2007 - 03:01 PM

Now if only someone could do this write up for vg30dett...:icon29:



tell me about it.:sad:

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#57 yo880

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Posted 08 August 2007 - 03:36 AM

Z U L8tr, when you used the MSD adaptor for the - signal for the autometer tachometer, which cylinder setting did you use? 4/6/8?

and can you give me more detail on which wire it should clip over (i have a series 2 RB25DET, so i will need to try and locate it as it doesn't have an ignitor, they are o the individual coils)

#58 alexideways

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Posted 08 August 2007 - 07:04 AM

Z U L8tr, when you used the MSD adaptor for the - signal for the autometer tachometer, which cylinder setting did you use? 4/6/8?

and can you give me more detail on which wire it should clip over (i have a series 2 RB25DET, so i will need to try and locate it as it doesn't have an ignitor, they are o the individual coils)



Take a look at the diagram I made on my post a bit earlier (#43)

Where you see the "shunt", this is a connector that just loops around and it's used by the dealership to plug a factory style timing light, you could probably tap your signal from there...

It's a big white wire that goes from your coil plug, attached on the rear of the coil cover, trough a splice, to a white connector with a little black box plugged on it that doesn't seem to have any purpose...

#59 synthtk

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Posted 08 August 2007 - 09:31 AM

I just wanted to say that without this wiring guide getting my RB26 running would have been a much larger headache than it was, Great job Chris.
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#60 zmaster

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Posted 02 February 2008 - 02:50 PM

you made it seem to easy.... i still think it will be a pain in the ass to graft the ngine harness to the stock z harness. because i hate wiring anything.




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