Guest 77hotdatz Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Im doin the same exact thing . I own a 77 280 2+2 and i have the 5.0 from my grandfathers boat. If you have any info you can give me cuz im pretty much clueless lol.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted December 16, 2006 Author Share Posted December 16, 2006 happy to hear that another 500Z will be born, not sure what info you need?? just tell me what you need and the guys here and me will try to help out...also read read and read about ford swaps in this forums, this is a great site to learn from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted December 18, 2006 Author Share Posted December 18, 2006 hi guys, just got my car back from the paint shop, fixed all the dents, removed the bumpers, shaved all the wholes, painted the engine bay. the car is ready for paint after i drop the engine and fire it here are some photos thats all for today guys, more photos are to come Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted December 22, 2006 Author Share Posted December 22, 2006 guys with a 150 shot of NOS, should i set the timing at 8 or 9 degrees??? it was set at 9, the NOS site says 8 degrees for a 150shot???!!! what do you think ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 guys with a 150 shot of NOS, should i set the timing at 8 or 9 degrees??? it was set at 9, the NOS site says 8 degrees for a 150shot???!!! what do you think ?? Every car is different, the guidelines set by NOS is just to get you into the ballpark, so to speak. The general rule is 1-2 degrees per 50 shot, but once again every car is different. My car liked 8 degrees but that was with a 175 shot. This was a 72/45 jetting combo, free flowing the solenoid essentially. The best thing to do if you do not have a wide band for tuning is to read the plugs. I would try a 100-125 shot first, and see how the car responds. Nitrous obviously works great on well tuned, healthy engines- but it will also expose any weaknesses or problems with the motor very quickly. Try a 100 shot with 10 degrees and read the plugs after every pass. It is important that you do this right in order to read the plugs accurately. Run the car and at the end of the pass immediately turn off the ignition and coast to the return road. You should have someone waiting to tow you back to the pits. Pull the plugs and check them. They should be slightly stained with no signs of detonation. If you have never read plugs have someone who has help you. If you fail to turn off the ignition, all of the "evidence" of your pass will be erased by the time you get to the pits and will be meaningless. You can lean out the combo by adjusting your timing up or down, (or with jetting) but after each change check the plugs. Don't change more than 1 thing (such as a colder plug and timing at the same time) either. For a 150 shot, you should probably run 1 range colder of a plug for safety. It will affect motor only performance marginally but will be safer. Start small and move up to the 150 shot after you have the smaller shot tuned!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 ok got it thanks alot Gr8white Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 Gr8white, one more question, u said ''Don't change more than 1 thing (such as a colder plug and timing at the same time) either'' im gonna use colder spark plugs, one step colder, for primary ignition timing, 10 would be fine you think ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MAD FORD Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 Nice work Port your E7 at least the exhaust because it has a small CFM and bad flow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Gr8white, one more question, u said ''Don't change more than 1 thing (such as a colder plug and timing at the same time) either''im gonna use colder spark plugs, one step colder, for primary ignition timing, 10 would be fine you think ???? Sorry, that was a bit vague. Changing to a colder plug actually wouldn't be a "change" since this is what you should do before you begin tuning. What I meant was, don't change jetting and timing at the same time. do 1 thing at a time so that the changes can be directly attributed to the change made and you aren't guessing about where to go with the tune. Also, don't make the mistake of tuning with race gas for and then running on the street with pump gas. I've known some that liked to tune with race gas and upping the timing (for some hidden hp on the dyno and to impress everyone, whoo boy) and then go back to pump gas for running around on the street (still on the jug). You may be able to get away with short bursts on the bottle like this, but sooner or later you'll run it longer or in bad air and then boom..... I sometimes would do the opposite and spash a gallon or so of 106 unleaded race gas into the tank for insurance against detonation, especially on hot, crappy air days in Texas. Safe may not be quite as powerful as lean, but on a stock block you often do not have the luxury of getting a second chance. A good, safe tune is the key to living on the street. Make sure to use unleaded race gas (if using some) when using the stock 02 sensors and electronics, leaded race gas will clog them up and affect your tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted January 2, 2007 Author Share Posted January 2, 2007 hi guys, good news, fired the car today and everything looks good let it run for 10 minutes, smooth and sounds good specially with ONLY the headers http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o117/my77z/?action=view¤t=MOV00065.flv this is a short video now workin on the exhaust system, i think it will be ready to hit the streets by the end of next week, still got the cowl hood/air dam to get and finally the paint job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest turborscapri1984 Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 Wow, nice job You didnt waste much time getting that thing running! -Mike- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted January 4, 2007 Author Share Posted January 4, 2007 check the video guys (2 replies above) and your comments please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Complete-Package-Dyno-Proven-347-500-HP-CNC-Heads-TMD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33620QQihZ007QQitemZ170006468745 guys check this out and tell me what you think please... the price is great but what about the quality??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Solid flat tappet cam? Maybe Ford racing sells a complete kit... I bet your best bet is to source a rotating assembly from something like Eagle and then find heads, cam, and intake in a package from another company. Thats usually how it works out. But thats just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted January 16, 2007 Author Share Posted January 16, 2007 hi guys, just to let you know, the Z is at the paint shop, final hood/air dam touches and will spray it on saturday, and hopefully will be a complet project on thursday.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 guys is it worth it to port the stock heads and get a new E cam for my current combo?? will i see a change? even a small change would make me happy?? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMoore56 Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Oh yes; Port the exhaust ports, but don't get greedy at the bottom. I screwed up a pair of GT-40 heads that way. Anything you can do to the ports will help. Also the E-cam is good. The B-cam is good for a standard tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY77Z Posted February 7, 2007 Author Share Posted February 7, 2007 what do you mean by "dont get greedy at the bottom"??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gr8White Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 guysis it worth it to port the stock heads and get a new E cam for my current combo?? will i see a change? even a small change would make me happy?? thanks Get the F303 cam! You'll certainly see a change porting the E7's and adding a cam, just probably not what you are expecting and not much bang for the buck, so to speak. E7's suck, plain and simple. I think my pisser flows better than ported E7's.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LMoore56 Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 I'm sorry; I was in a hurry this morning. I meant, don't get greedy at the bottom of the exhaust port and take out too much metal. There is a water jacket there. I got too close and mine cracked and spraying water into my exhaust. Witch turned into steam coming out my exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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