Need help choosing 5.0 swap parts

[Sven]

Get the F303 cam! You'll certainly see a change porting the E7's and adding a cam, just probably not what you are expecting and not much bang for the buck, so to speak. E7's suck, plain and simple. I think my pisser flows better than ported E7's....

 

The F cam is definitely more suited to your style, you seem to enjoy the N2O. The F303 was actually designed for nitrous combos. My '91 has the B, I just keep it because it sounds cool... The B303, B302, and E were specced out in the late 80's, early 90's, and cam technology has come a long way since then. There are much better cams now. The F is a later design.

 

Unless you are a head porting wizard, it really is a waste of time porting E7's. I think the professionally done ones maybe got 25-30hp more. Enjoy the car for now, and save up to buy real heads.

[MY77Z]

yeah you r right sven, i think im gonna enjoy it like this for now and i'll think about a combo later

[Sven]

That car will scream no matter, even with a bone stock swap. I'm jealous. You've got to rate pretty high for fastest Hybrid conversion. I've had the 5.0 Datsun thoughts ever since driving my first Mustang.

 

Didn't you get the memo? You are supposed to have a halfway torn apart car taking up space, pissing off the fam for at least three years or so...

[MY77Z]

heheheheh thanks sven, well my car will be ready in 2 days,,, thats exactly 3 monthes from the day i started my Ford swap.... 3 monthes is a record i think. and no thanks, no halfway torn apart car for me i do it fast, simple and the right way

drove the car today, i think i have to adjust the clutch because in 2nd and 3rd gear, the RPM goes up but the car is not running at full speed, on the other hand, 1st gear is good, spins like hell but still i was stuck in my seat, i think with my drag radials and NOS, i'm definetly gonna break my axles

[MY77Z]

ok, i think i need help here, drove the car today and everything was ok after adjusting the clutch, no slipping no nothing, was driving for almost 20 minutes, then the car started to sound really weird and black somke, i lost power but not alot and at low RPM, the car cuts and gains power.. is it my spark plugs? i have my new TR6 NGK plugs....do you guys think i should try the stock plugs?? if so, what gap is recommended with NOS?? 150HP shot??

help

thanks

[Guest Gr8White]

ok, i think i need help here, drove the car today and everything was ok after adjusting the clutch, no slipping no nothing, was driving for almost 20 minutes, then the car started to sound really weird and black somke, i lost power but not alot and at low RPM, the car cuts and gains power.. is it my spark plugs? i have my new TR6 NGK plugs....do you guys think i should try the stock plugs?? if so, what gap is recommended with NOS?? 150HP shot??

help

thanks

 

Ali,

What do you mean by the car "sounded weird", how so? Also, not sure about what you mean by "cuts and gains power"?? Are you talking about on motor or while you are spraying? Try to be a little more specific....

 

I liked the Motorsport AG-32's in my car. I am assuming that you are talking about how the car is responding when spraying it? Regardless, black smoke generally means a rich condition. If this happens when on the bottle, it could be various things- which is why I am asking you to be a bit more specific. First, read the plugs like I stated to you earlier. Running rich on the bottle would likely be incorrect timing (too low), incorrect jetting or ignition problems, but could be anything else. you can lean it out through timing or a larger jet on the fuel pressure solenoid (which reduces fuel pressure thus leaning it out). Change one or the other, not both at the same time.

 

Ford Mass air meters are notorious for being very picky about location and anchoring. The meter must be anchored firmly and have a clear path to the meter, any kink in the intake hose will cause the car to cut out, backfire and generally run crappy.

 

I experienced this several times while racing my Mustang and once on the street (then again, back then racing and being on the street weren't mutually exclusive!). The first time was after getting a Stormin Norman dual cowl induction hood and ram-air setup. The car would run fine with the hood up and as soon as the hood dropped the idle would barely change. Driving the car was impossible. It would run fine for a block, then buck and cough, sending me back limping home. I finally found that the The air ducting assembly was being crimped by the hood, shielding the meter from a good reading. Removing the ram air setup solved the problem. The second time was while launching the car at the track. If the car didn't hook hard (barely yanking the wheels) it would run fine, but if it hooked and yanked the wheels hard (12-24") it would fall on it's face and backfire loud enough to be heard for miles. After several infuriating attempts, I started tinkering and found the air filter assembly had come loose and would kink the airflow (when the chassis was loaded) enough to send the meter a bad signal, "measuring" less air than actually was present and incorrectly mapping the fuel curve to the computer- dead rich. Black smoke and all..

 

Try .032 on your gap with a 150 shot. It's very unlikely plugs are the problem unless they are damaged/burned. Please clarify your questions and I'll try to help you solve the problem. -Will

[MY77Z]

hi Will, was waiting for you to write me back, ok i was driving the car with no spray...just motor, the plugs are new NGKs TR6, timing is at 10, new wires, new distributer cap and almost new everything, the car was running fine, floored many times and it was awesome with no smoke, no problems..... then, it started to backfire a bit and ( sh*t i dont know how to say it in english) ok i''l explain, when you floor the pedal, no immediate response is there, when you push it gradualy, it's fine but not the same power as before, i have to say that few days ago, i was cleaning my cold air kit and i saw that my Mass air sensor is bent because i've over titened the tube ....does that have any thing to do with it??

,i checked my plugs today and they seem fine, no signs of beeing lean at all, if i'm gonna run stock spark plugs, what gap should i have??

ill check my mass air sensor tomorow and see if it still bent or not...

help Will

thanks

[MY77Z]

ok, i cannot wait till tomorow, i went and checked it, its 2:24 AM here in kuwait, the mass air sensor looks fine, no dents no nothing, but i cannot start the car now, if i do, my father is going to kill me and burn my Z i'll see how it runs tomorow and let you know Will, does the clutch adjustment have anything to do with what im experiencing??? because when the car started to act weird, the clutch was not adjusted at all, few minutes later, i wasn't able to shift, i adjusted the clutch (first time in my life) and drove it again....and the problem was still there

[Guest Gr8White]

hi Will, was waiting for you to write me back, ok i was driving the car with no spray...just motor, the plugs are new NGKs TR6, timing is at 10, new wires, new distributer cap and almost new everything, the car was running fine, floored many times and it was awesome with no smoke, no problems..... then, it started to backfire a bit and ( sh*t i dont know how to say it in english) ok i''l explain, when you floor the pedal, no immediate response is there, when you push it gradualy, it's fine but not the same power as before, i have to say that few days ago, i was cleaning my cold air kit and i saw that my Mass air sensor is bent because i've over titened the tube ....does that have any thing to do with it??

,i checked my plugs today and they seem fine, no signs of beeing lean at all, if i'm gonna run stock spark plugs, what gap should i have??

ill check my mass air sensor tomorow and see if it still bent or not...

help Will

thanks

 

Ali,

The clutch will not affect how the car runs. The only thing tied in to anything electrically is the neutral safety switch. This would only affect the ability to start the car. Fuel injection is funny and can be difficult to diagnose. Are you certain that your meter is calibrated correctly for the 30's you are running? A stock 19# meter with 30# injectors would create such a problem. Whatever you do, do NOT spray it until you work the bugs out!!

 

Additionally, check the O2 sensors for carbon buildup. If they are dirty and old I would replace. They aren't cheap but many drivability problems and gremlins with the EEC processor can be tied back to bad 02 sensors. I like the Bosch sensors.

 

Make sure your idle air solenoid on the side of the throttle body is clean and free of carbon buildup. Remove this and clean with carb cleaner or similar. How does the car idle? Steady or up and down and erratic?

This would be a symptom of carbon buildup within the IAS.

 

Check the throttle position sensor. This is the black connector on the top of the throttle body. Turn the ignition to the on position (but don't start the car) and probe (2) of the wires for voltage (forget which colors but probe until you get a voltage). You should get around 0.5-0.8 volts unmodified. A little hot rodding hint is to elongate the holes slightly in the plastic connector until the sensor can be rotated a bit. The car will run best at 0.9-1.0 volts. I like 0.985 volts, seems to be about right. A very slight turn is all that would be needed to get in the 0.985 volt range.

 

If none of this works and the car is still running rough, remove the negative cable to the battery and reset the computer. Run the car immediately and see how it runs.

 

Make sure your processor is for a 5 speed car. This was a swap, so make sure your computer is correct- 5 speed and automatic processors are different and will create drivabiltiy problems if not correct for the tranny.

The type will be on the processor itself. It may be a number you will have to look up, can't remember for sure. It's been awhile since I helped anyone with this.

 

A separate issue, but as far as helping your car run better off the bottle, I would suggest MSD's in car timing control (assuming you have a MSD 6AL) You can dial your timing up or down inside the car for the situation. 10 degrees on the bottle, 14 or so on the spray. I loved mine, very helpful for drag racing off the bottle.

 

Double check all of your grounds, including battery to chassis.

 

Finally, get a code scanner or borrow one and see what codes the EEC is storing (if none of this works).

 

Try all of this and see if it helps. Hope I could help. -Will

[MY77Z]

Will

I REALLY NEED HELP NOW,

ok listen to me carefully, and excuse my spelling, i'm a terrible speller even in arabic. mass air is calibrated with my 30lbs injectors, IAS is cleaned up and looks new, all ground wires are in place, checked all the wiring today, bought new stock spark plugs, gaped them at 30, ran the car for 10 minutes, good idle, but still runs bad, alot of back firing and no enough power as it used to be, tried to lean? richen the car between 38psi and 46psi, still same thing, THEN I PARKED THE CAR BACK AT HOME, 10 MINUTES LATER, I STARTED THE CAR AGAIN, THE RPM ON IDLE WAS HIGER THAN NORMAL, VOLTAGE GUAGE WAS OVER 16, INTERIOR LIGHTS WERE GLOWING ALOT MORE THAN NORMAL, MY RADIO WAS NOT WORKING AND THE (ALARM WHEN DOORS ARE OPEN) WAS SOO SOO LOUD, TOO MUCH ELECTRICITY, I MOVED THE CAR FOR 20 METERS AND BOOM, NO MORE LIGHTS, BUT THE CAR STILL RUN, WENT BACK HOME, PARKED THE CAR, SMOKE CAME OUT OF THE ENGINE BAY, OPENED THE HOOD AND I SAW A SMALL FIRE UNDER MY HOOD, YES FIRE I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY AND PUT DOWN THE FIRE WITH (SAND) BECAUSE I DONT HAVE AN EXTINGUESHIR AT HOME, THE TWO SMALL WHITE BOXES FROM THE Z HERNESS WITH THE FUSIBLE LINKS INSIDE THEM ARE COMPLETELY FRIED

no other dammage was noticed except for the NOS ground selenoids wires, they were attached underneeth the fusible links box

 

HELP IS NEEDED FROM ALL Z GUYS NOT ONLY FORD GUYS

[gexgexgexgex]

Maybe a shot in the dark here but oh well. Are you till using the stock AMP gauge, if so and you are using a more powerful alternator the wires behind you dash could be getting very hot. It could be getting so hot it shorted out something. Also dont forget most of the stock Z wiring was no made for a high powered alternator.

[280zwitha383]

Sounds like a personal problem. I'm sorry, I'm just kidding.

 

You are more than likely going to either have to get the wiring sorted out yourself or get someone over there to help you because I'm thinking that you have had a major short somewhere which is unlikely something under the dash but some major wire (probably in the engine bay) like from the alternator to battery or similar. Find the major short and then replace the fusible links and hope for the best. Good luck.

[Guest Gr8White]

I would agree that there is a serious short somewhere and you are going to have to trace the wires back from the fusible link to find the source. The problems you have been experiencing are very likely those associated with this short. The internal regulator on the alternator could have gone bad as well and should be checked. I still think it's a short. Spend the time to trace all of the wiring and if you don't have a schematic, get one.

Find the short, replace any burned wires and links and hope for the best.

 

Get the alternator checked too, it could create the problems you are experiencing.

[MY77Z]

thanks guys, well i'll check it tomorow with an electricen friend, my alternator is new Will, just bought it few days ago, its the 1995 mustang 130amp alternator....could the internal regulator go bad in such short time?? also, i forgot to ask you about the distributer, when i got my engine cleaned up, i had problems starting the car because the distributar had caught alot of there cleaning product, it ran good for few days and then i startd having the problems i told you about, could it be the distributer??

[Guest Gr8White]

thanks guys, well i'll check it tomorow with an electricen friend, my alternator is new Will, just bought it few days ago, its the 1995 mustang 130amp alternator....could the internal regulator go bad in such short time?? also, i forgot to ask you about the distributer, when i got my engine cleaned up, i had problems starting the car because the distributar had caught alot of there cleaning product, it ran good for few days and then i startd having the problems i told you about, could it be the distributer??

 

 

I think you just answered your own question. The 130 amp alternator is probably way too much current and has fried several components and wires. Get the 130 amp alternator off the car and start tracing fried wires!

[280zwitha383]

I've been running a 100amp alternator for about two years. It's possible but that wouldn't be what I would point the finger at first.

[MY77Z]

Will, been looking all around and no fried wires at all!!! just the fusible links, thats all, everything looks normal, i took the car to a friend's shop, he's specialist in Zs and Skylines, he'll take a look at it, are you saying i should change my alternator??? i've just spent 180dollars on this new one, now i have to hit the junk yard trying to find used fusible link boxes (if that what you call them) and we'll see how it goes, and what do you think about the distributer thing i told you about earlier?? could it be the problem why my car is not running correctly??

280zwitha383, in your opinion, what do you think went wrong??

[Guest Gr8White]

Will, been looking all around and no fried wires at all!!! just the fusible links, thats all, everything looks normal, i took the car to a friend's shop, he's specialist in Zs and Skylines, he'll take a look at it, are you saying i should change my alternator??? i've just spent 180dollars on this new one, now i have to hit the junk yard trying to find used fusible link boxes (if that what you call them) and we'll see how it goes, and what do you think about the distributer thing i told you about earlier?? could it be the problem why my car is not running correctly??

280zwitha383, in your opinion, what do you think went wrong??

 

Ali, I'm not sure whether your alternator is a problem or not, not really sure what at what amperage the stock electronics and components will begin to fry- maybe someone else on here has some experience with this. It seems to me that 130 amps is a bit high for a electrical system built with 70's technology.

 

The voltage spikes, etc. you were experiencing suggests a short- but that too could be created by the electrical system's response to the high amperage. The internal voltage regulators can and do go bad in these alternators and create such a problem, new or not. Many of these rebuilt high amp alternators aren't of the best quality. If your friend cannot isolate the problem try putting a stock type alternator on and see if the problem corrects itself. -Will

[MY77Z]

hi will, thanks for all your advices, ok my friend told me that he is going to seperate the alternator from the Z's old harness, do you get it? he's going to connect the alternator directly to the battery without passing throw the Z's harness, hope this will work, if it does, i have to check my distributer too, if it went bad, ill have to buy a new one

will, what do you think about the TOP END KIT BY trickflow??? the track heat one??

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK514%2D360%2D350&autoview=sku

do you think its worth it?? and would my stock pistons clear the valves??? if not, what pistons/rings set do you recommend (forged and same displacement)?

[280zwitha383]

Haha, now that I think about it my alternator is a one wire that runs directly to the battery. It might be the alternator after all and he's smart to run it directly and not through the harness. When I connected mine I just went the easiest route because I didn't label the alternator wires before I pulled the I6. Maybe it was a good thing....