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Need help choosing 5.0 swap parts


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Guest Gr8White
what do you think about the TOP END KIT BY trickflow??? the track heat one??

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK514%2D360%2D350&autoview=sku

do you think its worth it?? and would my stock pistons clear the valves??? if not, what pistons/rings set do you recommend (forged and same displacement)?

 

Ali, The kit is decent but you are going to have to decide what you want out of your combo and design around your expectations. You should be using forged pistons in any nitrous combination greater than 125 hp. This is a relatively mild kit that will make gobs of torque down low and decent power (probably in the 330+ flywheel HP range). It will idle with a slight ripple and is similar to the E303 (yuk) but with more lift.

 

My first combination on a stock displacement motor was very similar to this. Twisted wedge heads, Motorsport E303 (which I hated and switched out to a 51014 Lunati, better but still a small cam) and 30 lb injectors on a bone stock GT40 intake, 125 hp dry shot, JE Forged pistons. In my 3200 lb Mustang, it would run 8.0's/12.50's @ 107 and 7.30/11.60's @ 119 on a 125 shot.

 

The new TW heads (circa 1995 or so) had valve guide problems and mine was no exception. The valvetrain started being noisy and I pulled the heads before dropping a valve. These problems may have been fixed, I don't know since I haven't used Trick flow since. Personally, I would go to High Port TFS heads any day over the TW stuff. The intake is a good piece, I do not like the cam choice- but I'm sick and need help.

 

Do you want a nasty, hard hitting ragged edge street car or a daily driven relatively mild combo? If you want good power and driveabilty the above is fine, if you want a pavement scorching "holy $hit" kind of ride, keep shopping.

 

Then again 2800 lbs vs. 3200 may give you the "holy $hit" facor anyway!!!

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Will, if i'm gonna get the kit from trick flow, i'm gonna buy trickflow's forged pistons .30 over so valve clearence would not be a problem and i'll be able to switch cams whenever i want.

for now, i'll have a 306 with forged pistons, heads, cam, intake,cold air kit, 30lbs, the whole MSD thing, a superchip, 150hp dry shot and drag radilas.... how does it sound?? if you hit 11.60 with a 3200lbs mustang spraying 125hp shot?? what do you think my Z will run with 2800lbs and 150hp shot?? i would say low 11s to high 10s. also, having forged pistons, i could go all the way to a 200hp shot or not??

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Guest Gr8White
if you hit 11.60 with a 3200lbs mustang spraying 125hp shot?? what do you think my Z will run with 2800lbs and 150hp shot?? i would say low 11s to high 10s. also, having forged pistons, i could go all the way to a 200hp shot or not??

 

You can't always equate more power with better ET's! My times were with traction and enough tire under the car to hook up. If you can't hook up, that little WRX STi in the next lane will yank you like a kite in a hurricane until you catch it 1000 feet out!

 

It's probably going to take 60' times in the 1.50-1.60 range to hit the 10's.

Many websites have ET/MPH calculators based on rear wheel HP and weight. The basic formula is this:

 

ET= 5.825 x the cubed root of weight/HP

MPH= 234 x the cubed root of HP/weight

 

My car made 310 HP to the wheels and 410 with the 125 shot, and the ET/MPH works out very close using this formula. Lets say that you have the same HP on motor and say 430 with the 150 shot (150 rated at the crank, not wheels):

 

Motor: 12.13 @ 112.36 mph

Spray: 10.87 @ 125.31 mph

 

Mission accomplished.....That's hooking up and no tire spin, better get some tire under it- and I'm not talking drag radials. A 26 x 8.5 slick is probably not enough tire. A 26 x 10 may be.....

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what? that's all? just remove it while the engine is running or what??

BTW, my car is running fine, no more fire :) fixed the old Z harness and bought new (junk yard) fusible links boxes, isolated the alternator from this weak harness by connecting it directly to the battery, alternator went bad and had to change half of it maybe, the problem of loosing power is solved, one of the sparkplug wires melted on the headers and i was running on 7 cylenders only, i saw it today when i took all the wires of and checked them again. drove it few minutes ago and she's running wild, will have to buy 2 14'' wheels to stick my BFGoodrich on them, found a nice pair at the junk yard for 90 bucks, will get them after tomorow, also i have to reinstall the nitrous system because i took everything out after the small fire i had, timing is set at 9 and will see if my car likes it or not, our pump gas is at 98 Octane so we'll see how it goes with NOS....

 

WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERYONE HERE THAT HELPED ME OR TRYED TO HELP ME, SPECIAL THANK TO Gr8White (Will) for all your support and beeing so0o0o0o kind and answering all my questions :)

 

thanks

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Guest Gr8White
what? that's all? just remove it while the engine is running or what??

BTW, my car is running fine, no more fire :) fixed the old Z harness and bought new (junk yard) fusible links boxes, isolated the alternator from this weak harness by connecting it directly to the battery, alternator went bad and had to change half of it maybe, the problem of loosing power is solved, one of the sparkplug wires melted on the headers and i was running on 7 cylenders only, i saw it today when i took all the wires of and checked them again. drove it few minutes ago and she's running wild, will have to buy 2 14'' wheels to stick my BFGoodrich on them, found a nice pair at the junk yard for 90 bucks, will get them after tomorow, also i have to reinstall the nitrous system because i took everything out after the small fire i had, timing is set at 9 and will see if my car likes it or not, our pump gas is at 98 Octane so we'll see how it goes with NOS....

 

WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERYONE HERE THAT HELPED ME OR TRYED TO HELP ME, SPECIAL THANK TO Gr8White (Will) for all your support and beeing so0o0o0o kind and answering all my questions :)

 

thanks

 

No, Ali- removing the negative cable from the battery with the car off will reset the computer.

 

I would start with a 75 shot and make sure there are no issues, then go to the 125 and finally the 150. I remember starting with a 75 shot and not being all that impressed with the kit. The 125 shot is like night and day in terms of perceived power difference. The 150 shot, well I remember wondering if all my parts were going to hold together as hard as it hit!! Good luck, let me know how this goes. Seeya.

 

PS- Make certain you use an inline fuel booster pump with the 150 shot. NOS sells this as a stage 2 upgrade, it's just jetting and the inline pump.

Any quality inline booster pump will work however. Don't make the mistake of thinking you can get away with not using the booster pump with the 150 shot......

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Will, i have a Bosch inline fuel pump that normaly comes on mercedes 560s, i've been told that it could easily handle the 150shot, what do you think?....and yeah i think its better to start with the 75 shot, i'll get the jets after tomorow and reinstall the system and try it...one more question, what does it mean when you say free flowing the selenoids???

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Guest Gr8White
Will, i have a Bosch inline fuel pump that normaly comes on mercedes 560s, i've been told that it could easily handle the 150shot, what do you think?....and yeah i think its better to start with the 75 shot, i'll get the jets after tomorow and reinstall the system and try it...one more question, what does it mean when you say free flowing the selenoids???

 

The Bosch pump will probably do the job, but will depend on the pumps output. Do you know what the flow rate is in liters per hour? The NOS kit is designed around the crappy 88 l.ph. in tank stock pump, which is marginal even in stock applications- thus the reason for the pump being included with the stage 2 upgrade.

 

Free flowing the solenoid refers to the point at which nitrous flow is not governed by jetting size, but rather with the capacity of the solenoid itself. The 5115 solenoid (A super power shot solenoid I believe) will only flow enough nitrous up to the 73 jet. Past this point and jetting becomes irrelevant. Any jet size increase would mean no appreciable gain in nitrous flow, and equates to around 175 hp at the flywheel. You need to note that NOS offers no jetting combinations with the 73 Nitrous jet. I had plenty of fuel and went down to the original 42 fuel pressure jet (67/42 is the jetting with a 150) vs. the 45 jet for the 150 shot. Every combo is different. Don't skimp, READ THE PLUGS!

 

A little trick I stumbled upon while looking for a bit more out of my combo and too much time on my hands was to use the kit offered by NOS that splits the 150 shot into a 75 hp full throttle shot/ 75 hp button (hand activated) for traction limited applications where the 150 hp hit is too much for the tires. I activated this additional solenoid into what

I had previously used as my button line lock (in the car), routing the solenoid as my purge valve with the real purge hidden elsewhere. I even had the purge line routed to where it looked like nothing was askew. I rerouted my line lock back into one side of my horn button (heh heh) and tapping into a hidden area in my intake for the nitrous fitting. Sneaky, yes but I'm sick like that. Besides, I like to win! I only used it when needed (money race)..You should see people's expression when they see you squeeze that extra 2/10ths out after they have witnessed all out nitrous passes all night and think they have an easy kill since I never N/T'd my times at the track. I was never busted using this, which is half the fun!!! The dry kit is there and not hidden, so why look further? Hmm...:shock:

 

My car loved the extra oomph, my block did not however. I split it one cool night when the car was screaming and running great, dipping into the 6.40 range. The block split like a 8.8 Earthquake on a concrete 2 lane bridge. My tune was dead-on and post mortem inspection revealed no burned or damaged internals, only damage created by the block failure. It was a mess. Lesson- don't get greedy with a stock block. I was going to a blower and R block so I didn't care.:mrgreen: :mrgreen:

 

Be VERY careful with this. I wouldn't recommend this without a bunch of tuning knowledge with the 5.0 or someone around who does know how to tune. A chassis dyno and wide band would be a safe(er) route. Good tune or not, 500-600 hp in a stock block is a bomb, and I don't want to be in the lanes when it lets loose.

 

Remember to get over to the side of the track when breaking, I hate the bafoons that insist on coasting down the groove in a ventilated block like they are on a friggin Sunday drive. Be courteous and get over asap, regardless of where it lets loose. Ok, I'm rambling....Good luck and start small!

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aha i get it now, ok i'll start with the 47/59 jetting, thats the 80hp shot....what is the jetting for a 125 shot??? i have 67/42 jets also, thats the 150 shot but dont know the jetting for 125 shot.....

and how do you split o 150 shot into 75 full throttle and 75 button??? thats sound awesome for my car since i'm only gonna hit the streets with 215s drag radilas,

one more thing, a 73 jettings is good for what HP rate? maybe later with forged pistons :) and what bypass jet do you use with it??

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Guest Gr8White
aha i get it now, ok i'll start with the 47/59 jetting, thats the 80hp shot....what is the jetting for a 125 shot???

 

Reverse the jets, 59 nitrous 47 fuel

 

 

how do you split o 150 shot into 75 full throttle and 75 button???

 

Get on the NOS website and print out the manual for this, very informative.

 

i'm only gonna hit the streets with 215s drag radilas,

 

LOL, hello guardrail!!!! 5.0/2800lbs/150 shot/215 radials= dirt nap. You are kidding, right? :shock:

 

a 73 jettings is good for what HP rate? maybe later with forged pistons :) and what bypass jet do you use with it??

 

I believe I already answered that, 175 hp. Bypass jets differ according to car, no larger than a 42....Get used to the 125 shot first....I suggest tuning in an area devoid of any objects such as trees, cars, curbs, people, etc., with the 215's!!! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: I'll give you a run for your money to the 60' mark in my mountain bike.

 

I wouldn't worry about breaking my axles at this point, unless it's from a side impact!

 

215's???? Holy $hit!

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hehehehehhehehe no i'm not kidding :) 215 is what i have for now, maybe later i'll get weld wheels and 235s M/T. this is the widest i can go with stock suspension NO?

well, i'll be tuning my car on the street, now its up to the ''objects'' not to be in my way :) LOOOL

and about racing your mountain bike, NO THANKS, i think you'll hit the 1/8 mile mark and i'm still spinning like $hit....:)

no i'm not worrying about my axles, and hopefully dont break them by a side impact :)

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Guest Gr8White
how do you split a 150 shot into 75 full throttle and 75 button??? i've been looking for few days now and haven't found anything yet??

 

 

This is nothing more than an additional inline nitrous solenoid with a short AN line (long enough to go from solenoid to jet) and jet similar to the 5115 kit. You tap an additional fitting into the throttle body and rig the solenoid on a button, voila...Rig both with the 47/59 jetting and you have your 75/75 split....

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sorry Will but didnt understand how to do it :( what do you mean by ''rig the solenoid on a button?? how?? and rig both with the 47/59 jetting? sorry but i don't get it at all....where do you mount the additional solenoid? where do you install the other bypass jet?? will i have 2 main NOS lines that goes into the TB? and what does rig mean??

more explaination please :)

thanks

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Guest Gr8White
sorry Will but didnt understand how to do it :( what do you mean by ''rig the solenoid on a button?? how?? and rig both with the 47/59 jetting? sorry but i don't get it at all....where do you mount the additional solenoid? where do you install the other bypass jet?? will i have 2 main NOS lines that goes into the TB? and what does rig mean??

more explaination please :)

thanks

 

That's OK Ali, no need to apologize. Give me a few days and I'll put together a wiring schematic based loosely around the NOS 5115 kit that should explain everything for you, and anyone else here looking to do the same. It's really pretty easy.

 

There is no additional bypass jet, the bypass jetting is set to whatever the total horsepower level for the (2) nitrous jets. For instance, you know the 47/59 is a 75 shot- so.... you keep the 47 jet in place and add another 47 jet into the second nitrous jet. You then replace the 59 bypass jet with a 42, which is correct for the 150 shot!! In other words, (2) .047 jets are equvalent to (1) 67 jet.....

 

If you wanted, say a 125 shot total with the 75 hp full throttle and remaining 50 hp on the button, you would keep the 47 jet, and add a 59 to the bypass. The other nitrous line jet would be the equivalent of 50 hp to get your total of 125 hp. I'm not sure which jet this is off hand, but something in the .040 range I believe.

 

Understand?

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yes Will i get it now, so 2 main NOS lines that runs to the TB, both of them has the 47 jet, one bypass with 42 because i want a 75/75 shot...but still dont know hot install the third solenoid and the wiring thing, i'll be waiting for your wiring schematic and also more info or drawing about how to mount the additional solenoid.

Thanks alot Will

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hi Will, ok i sent the holley guys an email and they sent me back the instructions for 0016 kit, thats the two stages upgrade for the 75hp kit, all the instructions are there and clear enough :) i might need your help about one thing, but i'll ask you later, i guess i'll order the kit from summit or jegs, because if i'm gonna buy the separeted parts here in kuwait, i'll pay way over the kit's price :)

 

A5139-SNOS.pdf this is the link for the 0016 instructions sheet

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hi guys, i think i found a good deal on heads, edelbrock performer RPMs, ported and polished, 60cc, no rockers, no springs for 500 bucks, used but clean...what do you guys think?

if i get them, what cam do you guys recommend? and can i use the rockers i have now? mine are 1.72...

thanks

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