Jump to content
HybridZ
240hoke

Adding Clutches to the CLSD R200

Recommended Posts

Chris86NA2T    10

i have a question about the spring disks on either end of the clutch pack. when my unit is assembled the tabs of these disks stick out above the top of the case as pictured here:

up003.jpg

up002.jpg

 

 

now according to the service manual these pictures show the spring plates oriented correctly with the cupped side facing towards the outside of the case. the problem i have is that i can not get the case closed with these tabs sticking up like that. they never want to slide back into the groove that they normally sit in, they tend to slide left or right and end up getting pinched between the case and case cover as i pull it together. has anyone else had a difficult time with this?

 

when i flip the spring plates over it looks like this:

down005.jpg

down004.jpg

 

in this configuration i can assemble the case with no problems at all.. with no shims using kendall LSD gear lube i got a reading of 60 foot pounds with no shims and 75 with two .004 shims

 

the service manual clearly says to pay close attention to the orientation of the spring plates. while i do see how it would be very important to have them all oriented the same way, i cant see how reversing the orientation of all 4 spring plates will cause me problems.

 

i currently have it assembled with the spring plates' "cupped" side facing toward the center of the case like in the last pictures. id like to install it this weekend, so if im missing something critical and there is good reason to not put it in like this please let me know. thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Chris86NA2T    10
I just used a couple bolts and washers and nuts through the ring gear holes to draw the pieces together and then installed the screws. Wasn't a big deal with shims or without.

 

 

i did the same thing. i did it once with bolts and once with C clamps. my problem is not the inability to close the case. i can get the screws to engage without a problem. my issue is that i can not draw it down evenly enough to keep the tabs straight and have them slide back into the grooves in the case. the tabs end up sliding to the side and getting pinched between the case and the cover.

 

im trying to find out if other people have had the same problem. do my first pictures with the tabs sticking up look normal? has anyone else had difficulty with the tabs moving out of place while trying to secure the case? if other people have found this to be an annoyance then i know its something i just have to live with. if nobody else has experienced this before then ive probably screwed something up with my setup.

 

as far as flipping the springs, id like to know if anyone thinks that will be a problem. like i said, i cant see how, but maybe someone sees something i dont. thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kash    10

Hey Chris, did you get this figured out, I ran into the same issue you were having during assemble?

 

I did my best to assemble without pinching (very difficult with the spring tabs sticking out) yet I am getting a clunking sound from the diff when going around corners.

 

Did you install with the springs flipped around?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hey Chris, did you get this figured out, I ran into the same issue you were having during assemble?

 

I did my best to assemble without pinching (very difficult with the spring tabs sticking out) yet I am getting a clunking sound from the diff when going around corners.

 

Did you install with the springs flipped around?

 

Too late for Chris and Kash, but for anyone else who may attempt this in the future: It ain't easy, but it can be done. The Belleville (conical) springs must be aligned perfectly with each other and the slots they will drop into; the top of the LSD case must be lowered exactly into place on top of them, and pulled down very evenly. (There may be a slight champfer on the top of the slots in the case, but don't count on it to do much).

 

I put a couple ring gear bolts across from each other in the 'top' part to act as guides, lined up the marks on the case edge, held my tongue just right, and got lucky on the third try.

If a bolt gets tight whilst there is still a gap between case halves STOP, and start over. Not stoppng will lead to little bits of iron being carved from the case for your diff to chew on, or a broken tab on a Belleville washer.

Once the LSD top was placed, I caught about half a thread on each of the small Phillips screws in hopes that they would prevent any rotation the ring gear bolts might allow. Then the LSD halves were pulled together with a couple 7/16" bolts; whenever I could tell the gap was less than perfectly even. I tightened one of two other bolts at 90 degrees to the 7/16 bolts to bring things back into alignment. (After the fact, I found Jon's post suggesting 3 bolts, which would likely simplify the procedure).

 

Kash, by now you know that LSD additive generally helps with corner clunking / clutch chatter. Some one else may not.

 

HTH someone, some day.

 

 

<>

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Savage42    21

I've been a fan of Amzoil or Redline synthetic gear lube. Just want to make sure it's good for an LSD. As for how much? Depends on if you are running the finned cover or not. You fill it up through the filler hole to the point here it just starts spilling out. You will want 2 quarts, or maybe 3?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
240hoke    32

I recently finished taking my rear end apart and checking everything out. I ended up not liking the shimmed diff for the street. The diff had serious chatter, and caused the car to understeer. When going around tight corners I could feel the rear end just pushing me. I removed all the shims, dropping it back down to about 40ft/lbs of breakaway. I am now using Redline NS oil with additional friction modifier. I am very happy with the results.

 

I honestly dont know how many miles I put on hte car since I added the clutches, I would guess around 5K or so. I didnt see any significant wear or galling at all, just the blue surface has worn a bit.

 

DSC_0001_Large.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Savage42    21

That is a great update and cool pic showing the wear on the clutches, which is very minimal to not even take off all the blued surface. As for handling and stuff, I can see where you are coming from. There are other factors like tires (size and compound), suspension setup (camber, bars & springs, etc) and what you are using the car for will have a big impact on how tight the diff should/can be.

 

I ran 40 lbs in my LSD in my 510 and worked great on the street, but when I had slicks on at the hillclimb, I'd get severe inside tire spin on the corners. So, big grip and hard corners will (or could) make it feel like an open diff, but that's the only time I had an issue. Thanks for the write up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest TurboHatch   
Guest TurboHatch

I just rebuilt my diff last night using this article. 2 things I noticed are my stock plates and clutches are grooved and slotted not smooth like the replacement ones. The second thing is after removing the spacers and following the exact stacking procedure mentioned i still had 2 of the new clutches left over. of course i guess i could have used them in place 2 of my stock ones but the stock ones are grooved and looked perfect still. in closing make sure that you use a LSD additive or you will get alot of clunking when you turn under power. once you add the additive simply do a few circles left and right in a parking lot to work it all threw the diff and it will be smooth again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest TurboHatch   
Guest TurboHatch

There was 6 of them total. I didnt buy them they came in a box of stuff that came with the car, but I think they are from the group buy some one on here did. they was wired together with a paper tag that had some numbers on it. perhaps the fella who bought them bought 2 extra or something. I didnt bother shimming it or anything as it worked fine before and if anything should be a little tighter now as the thickness of the 4 clutches added up was a little thicker then the 2 shims added up, roughly .004 or so. oh well looks like i have 2 spares to hang on the wall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×