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Adding Clutches to the CLSD R200

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Unlike everything else out there, they are still $50 for a set of 4 and $75 for a set of 6 and includes shipping in the USA via Priority Mail. Just got a new batch, so "come & get 'em". :)

 

I'll take a set. Do I need 6 or four? I have a 300ZX LSD that came with the car. I assume that means I need six from the original writeup. PM me with your paypal info or preferred payment method.

 

Thanks,

Zack

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Hey guys, I need your help.

 

I picked up a R200 LSD and bought 6 'clutches' from Savage. I took the diff to a local guy who build r190's for his customers and he and I are a bit confused by what parts I need to complete the 6 clutch setup.

 

In reading the first post on this topic, it is suggested that the reinstall of the clutches and plates should be in this order:

 

spring disc

spring disc

clutch

plate

clutch

plate

clutch

center section

clutch

plate

clutch

plate

clutch

spring disc

spring disc

 

Here's the confusion: when he disassembled the diff/lsd, everything looked good from a wear perspective - but the 6 'clutches' I got are metal, but in the lsd there's only one set of friction 'plates(?)' that is installed from the factory. My question is two fold - 1, the 'clutches' I got from savage are metal which makes me think they are 'plates' because they have no friction material, is this correct? 2, where do I get the extra friction discs, (which I though were the clutches) to complete the setup? I need to get pictures to help you guys out, which I will try and obtain, but I'm confused as from everything I've seen about this topic is that the only parts I'd need is the 'clutches' from Savage. Are the parts I got from Savage the Clutches or the Plates? I bought 6 from savage that have the tabs on the inside.

 

If the metal pieces I got are the clutches, then what is the name of the other pieces that have the friction material (like a transmission clutch) called?

 

I have read and re-read this post many times and only seen one post about parts which refers to this link: http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=3102, which confuses me even more.

 

any help you can provide is much appreciated.

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Go back to the very first post in this thread and it's pretty straight forward as to what you need to do. If you want to use all 6 new clutches, then you take out the two existing ones and use all 6. If you retain the 2 OEM clutches, then just add the 4 clutches in the positions in this picture. This is how it's been done with the 100+ units that people have done over the years and not a single problem to date. (that I'm am aware of) Hope this helps.

post-505-095576200 1284742869_thumb.jpg

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Go back to the very first post in this thread and it's pretty straight forward as to what you need to do. If you want to use all 6 new clutches, then you take out the two existing ones and use all 6. If you retain the 2 OEM clutches, then just add the 4 clutches in the positions in this picture. This is how it's been done with the 100+ units that people have done over the years and not a single problem to date. (that I'm am aware of) Hope this helps.

 

Savage. Thanks again for your help.

 

So, the clutches and the plates are all metal, is this correct? There is no 'friction' material (like a clutch in a transmission) on these LSD units? Sorry for the 'dumb' questions, just a noob looking for help.

 

Thanks!

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Also remember that these clutches are working in a wet oiled environment. Your clutch on the flywheel is a dry environment. The clutch material that contacts the flywheel is not so different than brake pad material, and we all know that grease on your rotors is BAD for braking. Same thing in a diff. You have to take the oil into account. And in this environment, metal on metal for a clutch won't wear the same as it would dry, and will have a very different break away characteristic compared to dry.

 

All that being said, I'm reading this reading up on what my options are for converting to a LSD down the road. Does anyone know what the clutch/spacer pack looks like in the power brute carrier? Some seem to say it's a lot like the Nissan unit in the Z31, but I can't find info on what the break away levels are like from as-ordered and if the same clutches could be used, or how many clutches it has in it.

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There is a thread where bjhines and I were arguing over this, because I had the Z31 diff apart and he had the Power Brute apart. We were both sure that we were right (we were) and the other was wrong (we weren't). You can look and find that thread if you want, but the basic jist is this (maybe bjhines will see this and fill in any gaps in my memory). The Power Brute has more clutches. I think it has more clutches than a Z31 with clutches added. It has more aggressive ramps on the cross pins, so it puts more pressure on the clutch stack. It has thrust washers on the gears, where the Z31 doesn't. I think that's about it. So basically, it's built stronger and more aggressive in every respect. To the Z31 LSD's credit though, apart from people who strip off the clutches, you don't hear too many people complaining about wheel spin with them.

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The LOM-59 unit to fit the R-200s was completely different than the factory unit.

 

6 disks per side for 12 total

low ramp angles

Forged cross instead of single pin

Zero thrust side gears for constant internal gear lash

very low preload for better turn in

overall larger and stronger components

 

R200NISMOnumbers2.jpg

 

NISMOLSDhalfstackhighcontrast.jpg

 

sidegearthrustwasher.jpg

 

R200NISMOramps.jpg

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