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Adding Clutches to the CLSD R200


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#21 Lunar240z

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Posted 10 June 2007 - 07:46 AM

Just a fyi. Extending the arm of a torque wrench like that changes the readings. The paperwork from my craftsman torque wrench told me.
-hanson

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#22 JMortensen

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Posted 10 June 2007 - 08:20 AM

The nice part about using a longer arm to test the breakaway is that you don't have to pull so freakin hard, so you can measure a bit more accurately. The length of the arm was taken into consideration, and you are absolutely correct that you can't just add length to the arm randomly and expect anything like usable torque values.

Austin and I both used this page as a guide, Gordon Glasgow gives lengths and their effect on the torque values on one of the later pages. Good info in that site all the way through. http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/lsd1.asp

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#23 DeleriousZ

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Posted 05 September 2007 - 07:18 PM

hey guys sorry for the old threat post, but i've got a question about the clutches... is it wise to have them directly contacting the spring plates and center section? i wouldn't think that the spring plates are as robust as the actual plates that are in there. Given the load would be quite distributed throughout the 3 discs and their friction surfaces, but still...

thoughts?
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88 z31t - under construction

#24 JMortensen

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Posted 06 September 2007 - 08:00 AM

The spring plates are the same size and thickness as the clutches, and I would suspect are the same material, just bent into a spring by a huge press somewhere in Japan. I have no reservations about putting a clutch disk next to a spring plate.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#25 DeleriousZ

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Posted 06 September 2007 - 02:13 PM

fair enough, that's all i needed to hear... thanks!
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88 z31t - under construction

#26 Chris86NA2T

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Posted 26 March 2008 - 06:43 PM

i have a question about the spring disks on either end of the clutch pack. when my unit is assembled the tabs of these disks stick out above the top of the case as pictured here:
Posted Image
Posted Image


now according to the service manual these pictures show the spring plates oriented correctly with the cupped side facing towards the outside of the case. the problem i have is that i can not get the case closed with these tabs sticking up like that. they never want to slide back into the groove that they normally sit in, they tend to slide left or right and end up getting pinched between the case and case cover as i pull it together. has anyone else had a difficult time with this?

when i flip the spring plates over it looks like this:
Posted Image
Posted Image

in this configuration i can assemble the case with no problems at all.. with no shims using kendall LSD gear lube i got a reading of 60 foot pounds with no shims and 75 with two .004 shims

the service manual clearly says to pay close attention to the orientation of the spring plates. while i do see how it would be very important to have them all oriented the same way, i cant see how reversing the orientation of all 4 spring plates will cause me problems.

i currently have it assembled with the spring plates' "cupped" side facing toward the center of the case like in the last pictures. id like to install it this weekend, so if im missing something critical and there is good reason to not put it in like this please let me know. thanks

#27 JMortensen

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Posted 26 March 2008 - 10:03 PM

I just used a couple bolts and washers and nuts through the ring gear holes to draw the pieces together and then installed the screws. Wasn't a big deal with shims or without.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#28 Chris86NA2T

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Posted 27 March 2008 - 12:33 PM

I just used a couple bolts and washers and nuts through the ring gear holes to draw the pieces together and then installed the screws. Wasn't a big deal with shims or without.



i did the same thing. i did it once with bolts and once with C clamps. my problem is not the inability to close the case. i can get the screws to engage without a problem. my issue is that i can not draw it down evenly enough to keep the tabs straight and have them slide back into the grooves in the case. the tabs end up sliding to the side and getting pinched between the case and the cover.

im trying to find out if other people have had the same problem. do my first pictures with the tabs sticking up look normal? has anyone else had difficulty with the tabs moving out of place while trying to secure the case? if other people have found this to be an annoyance then i know its something i just have to live with. if nobody else has experienced this before then ive probably screwed something up with my setup.

as far as flipping the springs, id like to know if anyone thinks that will be a problem. like i said, i cant see how, but maybe someone sees something i dont. thanks

#29 Kash

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Posted 04 June 2008 - 09:09 PM

Hey Chris, did you get this figured out, I ran into the same issue you were having during assemble?

I did my best to assemble without pinching (very difficult with the spring tabs sticking out) yet I am getting a clunking sound from the diff when going around corners.

Did you install with the springs flipped around?

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#30 reddzx

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 05:41 PM

I need these R200 CLSD clutches bad. Some one PM me when there's a group buy.

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#31 A. G. Olphart

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Posted 06 November 2008 - 08:39 PM

Hey Chris, did you get this figured out, I ran into the same issue you were having during assemble?

I did my best to assemble without pinching (very difficult with the spring tabs sticking out) yet I am getting a clunking sound from the diff when going around corners.

Did you install with the springs flipped around?


Too late for Chris and Kash, but for anyone else who may attempt this in the future: It ain't easy, but it can be done. The Belleville (conical) springs must be aligned perfectly with each other and the slots they will drop into; the top of the LSD case must be lowered exactly into place on top of them, and pulled down very evenly. (There may be a slight champfer on the top of the slots in the case, but don't count on it to do much).

I put a couple ring gear bolts across from each other in the 'top' part to act as guides, lined up the marks on the case edge, held my tongue just right, and got lucky on the third try.
If a bolt gets tight whilst there is still a gap between case halves STOP, and start over. Not stoppng will lead to little bits of iron being carved from the case for your diff to chew on, or a broken tab on a Belleville washer.
Once the LSD top was placed, I caught about half a thread on each of the small Phillips screws in hopes that they would prevent any rotation the ring gear bolts might allow. Then the LSD halves were pulled together with a couple 7/16" bolts; whenever I could tell the gap was less than perfectly even. I tightened one of two other bolts at 90 degrees to the 7/16 bolts to bring things back into alignment. (After the fact, I found Jon's post suggesting 3 bolts, which would likely simplify the procedure).

Kash, by now you know that LSD additive generally helps with corner clunking / clutch chatter. Some one else may not.

HTH someone, some day.


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#32 Armand

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 09:13 AM

I need these R200 CLSD clutches bad.


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#33 zilvia_gt

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 10:12 AM

I was just wondering, where did you guys end up placing the shims? I read both posts and couldn't find a definite answer to this.

#34 JMortensen

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Posted 03 April 2009 - 10:13 AM

I put the shims on the very outside, after the spring plates.

Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#35 rztmartini

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Posted 07 May 2009 - 08:30 PM

can anyone supply any info on these clutch disc's/plates such as dimensions and alloy/heat treat? I might make a run at producing some of these, and if there is an interest I could make a few more sets...

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#36 reddzx

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 05:03 AM

Contact 42savage here on the forum

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#37 Savage42

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Posted 08 July 2009 - 03:20 PM

Just whipped up another batch and have a few sets left, so let me know if you need them.

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#38 burntread

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Posted 14 August 2009 - 12:58 PM

So here is my question. After tearing down an 87-89 300ZX turbo R200 LSD, how much and what type gear oil goes back into it when rebuilding? I've been searching and can't find mention of it. Thanks.

#39 Savage42

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Posted 14 August 2009 - 02:43 PM

I've been a fan of Amzoil or Redline synthetic gear lube. Just want to make sure it's good for an LSD. As for how much? Depends on if you are running the finned cover or not. You fill it up through the filler hole to the point here it just starts spilling out. You will want 2 quarts, or maybe 3?

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#40 burntread

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Posted 15 August 2009 - 08:33 AM

Yes, I have the finned cover, so I guess I should add the greater amount? Also, my question on what type was for what weight. 75w-90, or does anyone have a good suggestion? Thanks again!




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