After doing some reading.. I blocked off the upper grill *pics*
Posted 21 May 2007 - 03:51 PM
I decided to block off the upper grill from the bumper line to the hood.. and I also blocked off the sides of the grill so no air is wasted in the monster opening of the Z's mouth.
I just welded on some sheet metal from Home Depot behind my grill..
and added a piece of sheet metal from the air dam to the radiator support.. and an upper piece of sheet metal from the grill, across the intercooler and to the radiator.
I am just experimenting with different things right now.. yes its ugly but Function over Form.
Excuse the poor quality.. i misplaced my camera.. so its camera phone time
Posted 21 May 2007 - 04:06 PM
Posted 21 May 2007 - 04:14 PM
I was planning on finishing everything up tomarrow..
just some pics and hopefully a brief discussion on what would be the best thing to do =)
Posted 21 May 2007 - 05:18 PM
Posted 21 May 2007 - 05:29 PM
Need to SEAL the airdam to the rad core support and close up all the holes that allow air to divert around the radiator.
Jon, I have been thinking about the seal in particular and was wondering what to use in this case. Tape? It may sound stupid, but what material comes to mind? The only thing I can think of is gaffer's tape or maybe aluminum tape. Anyone have better suggestions? *please*
Posted 21 May 2007 - 05:31 PM
6/72 240Z / HLS30 89646 (Yellow)
Posted 21 May 2007 - 06:19 PM
Everything I am using is from Home Depot.. since I work there I have alot of spare time to wonder around and look at the product haha
So far this has cost me $22. $12 for a 4x8 sheet of sheet metal
(Home Depot offers 3 types. Galvanized in the plumbing/ducting aisle. The steel is 26 guage for $11. Steel in the hardware department which is way overpriced. $18 and its 22 guage. The third type is 22/24 guage steel in the gutter/roofing aisle used for flashing. This was $12 and much thicker than the galvanized metal in plumbing)
I used 3/16 aluminum rivets and washers =)
Posted 21 May 2007 - 07:23 PM
couldnt of done it without your ingenious works!
Posted 22 May 2007 - 07:51 AM
then the part can be removed for vehicle service w/ out looking like a colligen injection gone horredly wrong.
Posted 22 May 2007 - 09:31 PM
So if you are thinking of using aluminum tape to finish your sealing, I'd say it will probably deliver Yoeman Service in that duty!
Duct Tape, on the other hand, is very disapointing, even the good stuff made in the US of A. Won't last more than a year, and even less when exposed to direct sunlight.
Posted 22 May 2007 - 11:49 PM
thanks for the kind words titanium Z!
couldnt of done it without your ingenious works!
Prox thats looks awesome...also gotta love Home Depot..yours is much neater than mine...good job!!
1973 240Z V8 SBC 1975 280Z V8 BBC 1971 Hakosuka 2001 C5 Corvette Convertible 13.06 at 106.38 with intake bolt ons
Posted 23 May 2007 - 06:37 PM
If you block off a significant portion of the frontal area without sealing the inlet. You might significantly reduce flow through the radiator.
I only say this because I know that some people will jump in and block off the frontal area without addressing the inlet sealing. That will likely lead to overheating.
Posted 26 May 2007 - 07:33 AM
As the mental gears and noggin cogs start spinning more and more rapidly... MWAHAHAHAAA
1-5-3-6-2-4, counter-clockwise from 9 o'clock when viewing from driver side fender
There's something about a white Nissan......
Wisdom is knowing how much you do not know.
"Indeed, if fish had fish-lore, and Wise-fish, it is probable that the business of anglers would be little hindered." -JRR Tolkien
ALL YOUR BOOST ARE BELONG TO US
Posted 04 June 2007 - 12:15 PM
The opening for the radiator is 12" wide by 4" high and is between the air dam and the bumper. Also note the judicous use of 500 mph tape to seal everything up in the front.
At this time they are cardboard and sheetmetal but after I get everything worked out the way I want I will make everything from aluminum sheet and it will all be painted.
As a side note I actualy took it on a test drive with the cardboard and it worked great up to about 110 mph when the cardboard got flatened against the radiator. I ran the car through city traffic and at typical freeway speeds with no over heating issues (had to use the low speed side of the fan a couple times while stopped in traffic), it was after I was done testing that I decided to see how fast I could go before the cardboard gave out.
If you take a short cut you will allways miss something.
3.0L n/a 240z
Posted 04 June 2007 - 03:09 PM
I am still trying to figure out a way to seal the intercooler and radiator with the opening I have.. its very very difficult to get right and ALOT of time to get it sealed perfectly.
Posted 04 June 2007 - 04:16 PM
I already had a lower piece that joined the top of the air dam, to the rad. I then put in an upper piece that joined the top of the grill to the rad to stop air from going over the rad.
It worked great. The wind tunnel testing has got me interested in making changes on either side of the i/c to make sure air gets better directed.
I am going for a cross between form and function here. The little vertical pieces were a real PITA to build and make a decent fit to the upper "pan"
Well this post is useless with out pics so here goes.
1986 Porsche 944 Cabriolet, Gemballa Bodykit, mild mods
1978 280Z VG30ET Intercooled T3/T4, MS&S, 300RWHP 350ft/lbs SOLD
Posted 04 June 2007 - 04:37 PM
Scott that looks incredible!!
Everyone is shown me up! LoL.. mine was a ghetto 1 hr project.. haha
very impressive! I have some work to do!!
Posted 04 June 2007 - 06:00 PM
What guage is the sheetmetal? Is it aluminum? And lastly, where did you buy it?
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