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After doing some reading.. I blocked off the upper grill *pics*

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Hey guys,

 

lots of neat work going on in the front end. I'm working on mine too right now. I have even more crap im trying to get around though.

 

However I thought i would through this out before people start buying sheetmetal....

 

You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.

 

Ill post some pictures when i get done.. if i get done lol ....

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Okay here is a picture of what im talking about:

verticle_IC_002.sized.jpg

 

and here is the NIGHTMARE im working with:

verticle_IC_009.sized.jpg

 

verticle_IC_008.sized.jpg

 

 

Im not exactly sure how to go about sealing everything up I can make an attempt at ducting but sealing will be an issue... i might end up just blocking some of the front end off.

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You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.

 

 

I was thinking about the same thing, but it was an idea rather than an experience. My dad has used a fiberglass kennel cage as "stock" for floorboard repairs before, and I've done a bit of rudimentary glasswork in my own day. I was actually halfway wondering if you could mock something up with cardboard, cover the cardboard with wax paper, and use that to lay down a primary layer of glass, and maybe if needed go back and add a sheet or two once you peel it off of the mold..

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Yea that entirely possible, alot of people make quick molds out of cardboard, foam or whatever and cover it with clear packing tape and just lay the glass on top of that... works well. Its not show quality, it isnt smooth on the outside but it works.

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Hey guys,

 

lots of neat work going on in the front end. I'm working on mine too right now. I have even more crap im trying to get around though.

 

However I thought i would through this out before people start buying sheetmetal....

 

You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.

 

Ill post some pictures when i get done.. if i get done lol ....

 

I like that idea and I may give it a try. With everything you have in the front of yours its going to be tough but I think if you buy some aluminum tape you should be able to seal everything up and as long as you cover everything with metal or fiberglass etc. you don't have to worry about the tape showing. You could also tape everthing up from the engine side but then it would show. Just had an idea... having seen your skills and inginuity you could probably make a fiberglass facia to mount inside the engine compartment that would seal off everything but the radiator then use rubber moulding to seal around everything that has to penitrate the facia and to complete the seal around the radiator.

 

Dragonfly

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wigenOut-S30 I'm not too sure what you mean by front end shots? There is not much to see it is so hidden. The only really visible part is the lower sheet of aluminum that goes from the air dam to the top of the lower rad support. The sheet almost touches the rad. It actually passes under the i/c (less than an inch of clearance.) I left it like that so I can remove it with reasonable effort.

 

I am still blending function/form and removability for servicing the car. I takes some thought on how to put it together, and to make sure I can assemble and dissasemble it.

 

Anyhoo here are the requested shots. Let me know if ya need some more info.

 

DSC01921.jpg

 

DSC01918.jpg

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240hoke, could you consider relocating your reservoir tank to the inside of the engine compartment instead of out front of the radiator? That would go one step towards de-complicating the airflow and sealing puzzle you have up there with your CAI and intercooler.

 

- Doc

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I took the car out to the track yesterday..

 

HUGE HUGE HUGE difference..

 

I used to be on the verge of overheating and probably around 200-220 degrees after a few laps.

 

Yesterday I reached a maximum temperature of 170 degrees with my 160 degree thermostat. all WITHOUT a fan!

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Ryan: I enjoyed looking at your car on Saturday. I couldn't stay long (I left about when the cars first went on the track) but it was cool to see it. Sorry I didn't get a chance to talk to you.

 

John

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Almost finished with the lower pan on my 280ZX, but I still have to figure out how to finish up the sides and do a top now. I might have to make a cross bracket...it seems like that is how Scott did his.

 

Pics are over in my project page: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=796319&postcount=3

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I have been watching to see what others are doing. It seems just as many are blocking off lower portion as compared to upper. Is it just owners choice? Or does one work better that other?

 

I played with closing off bottom half. Just seemed to work better.attachment.php?attachmentid=4451&stc=1&d=1196905538attachment.php?attachmentid=4452&stc=1&d=1196905538

z car 001_thumb.jpg

z car 002_thumb.jpg

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Well now that I tossed all night trying to think why my fab went so easy I realized all I did was basically cut my radiator size in half by taking my bottom piece straight across.

 

Obviously, I need to go in about 4" then angle down about 45 degrees to the bottom of my radiator so I utilize the entire radiator for cooling.

 

That is why it is always good to do a mock up with junk laying around the shop before using the good stuff.

 

Tom

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Yes, it will, both in terms of cooling and in aero. Your description is pretty hard to understand (I wish you'd spent a little more effort in explaining it clearly), but from what I gather you're talking about exposing the entire radiator surface within your airbox, vs. enclosing only part of it in the airbox and letting the other part hang out.

 

Cooling would probably be sufficient only partly enclosed, so long as the airbox was engineered well. Unfortunately it is beyond most of our time and talent to engineer an airbox that will give smooth, laminar flows and eliminate pockets of dead air. If it were me, I'd do it right and enclose most of the radiator.

 

As far as the opening size goes, our intake grilles are huge, so don't worry about that until you're getting down below a square foot.

 

Aero will also be affected, unless you are also adding a subframe tray under the car. The outside surface of the bottom of the airbox affects the air behind your front valence or airdam, so changing that angle and height will change the aero impact on the nose. To what degree, I do not know, as I haven't seen any aero data on that and I'm not smart enough to have a reasonable guess.

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I spent awhile trying to find a way to word it. Even your description was hard to understand.

 

A way to think of it is a 3x.5 ft opening exposing the same area of the radiator compared to 3x.5 ft opening that opens to the entire radiator.

 

At the bottom is a picture of what I have planned.

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I totally understand what your saying. The same frontal opening, with the back of the duct, say for example, covering the entire radiator OR half of it.

 

If you don't build the duct to cover the entire frontal area you are losing out on cooling capacity. You will only be cooling half the rad, and its harder to force the same amount of air through half the fins.

 

Evan

 

BTW, did anybody read this thing about ducting in Maximum boost? Basically said as long as frontal area is 25% or more then the back of the duct you are still gaining efficiency due to the air not bouncing off the front and going around the sides.

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Anyone have an easy way of removing the tortion bars with the hood on? Im guessing it has to be when the hoods down.

 

EDIT- I ended up tieing them together and cutting one. Once I had that out I muscled out the other one. I never realized how heavy my hood is.

 

Yeah the hood is pretty heavy (about 45 lbs or so). Now that you have removed those torsion springs here is something you can use to replace them and still achieve your goals. http://store.zraceproducts.com/mountinghardwareparts.php#gasshock

 

Dragonfly

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