Jump to content


Photo

After doing some reading.. I blocked off the upper grill *pics*


  • Please log in to reply
145 replies to this topic

#21 74Adam

74Adam

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 216 posts
  • LocationDallas, Texas

Posted 04 June 2007 - 08:32 PM

Scott, how do you deal with not having the torsion bars for the hood? Are you just real careful when you have the hood open? not trying to be a smart ass, BTW :-)

thanks

#22 Daeron

Daeron

    DON'T PANIC

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2129 posts
  • LocationWPB, Florida USA

Posted 04 June 2007 - 09:37 PM

Scott, how do you deal with not having the torsion bars for the hood? Are you just real careful when you have the hood open? not trying to be a smart ass, BTW :-)

thanks


there's a prop rod there, that works perfectly fine. I like having the springs there, but they are far from vital.

Is your prop rod missing? not trying to be a smartass, btw :coollook:
Fusible Links blow.

1-5-3-6-2-4, counter-clockwise from 9 o'clock when viewing from driver side fender

There's something about a white Nissan......
Wisdom is knowing how much you do not know.
"Indeed, if fish had fish-lore, and Wise-fish, it is probable that the business of anglers would be little hindered." -JRR Tolkien

ALL YOUR BOOST ARE BELONG TO US

#23 ZR8ED

ZR8ED

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 942 posts
  • LocationToronto GTA

Posted 05 June 2007 - 02:57 AM

Rags. I am using Aluminum, and I'm pretty sure the guy said it was .025. I had asked for material that was about 24 gauge. Thin, bendable, easy to cut with my electric metal shears. (electric metal shears from Princess Auto. It looks like a standard electric drill, except with metal shears on the end.) BUY electric shears if you're going to mess with thin sheet metal and aluminum. It is like cutting paper, and far easier than hand cutters, and you can cut somewhat complicated shapes!

I picked up the aluminum at Metal Supermarket. They are open to the public.

The entire job cost me $22 for aluminum, and a few dollars for the poprivits and nuts/bolts, and $9 for the 3/8 black door molding to trim the panels to reduce any rattles, and to keep from scratching any paint.

I can pull the whole thing out in about 10 min for access.

74Adam. I have had no issues with the torsion bars removed. I use the stock prop rod to hold the hood up.

Thanks!
Scott.
Posted Image
1986 Porsche 944 Cabriolet, Gemballa Bodykit, mild mods
1978 280Z VG30ET Intercooled T3/T4, MS&S, 300RWHP 350ft/lbs SOLD

#24 74Adam

74Adam

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 216 posts
  • LocationDallas, Texas

Posted 05 June 2007 - 05:25 AM

Thanks. I guess I have some nightmare scenario in my head where I'm halfway in the engine bay and some clueless neighbor comes over and somehow dislodges the prop rod. I'm not usually that paranoid...........really.

#25 proxlamus©

proxlamus©

    I need a hug...

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2107 posts
  • LocationAurora, Colorado

Posted 05 June 2007 - 09:52 AM

buy a light CF hood and ya wont worry about it hitting you.. LoL too light
Currently on a rotisserie for a full restoration - L28 with 9mm rods, 88mm Ross pistons (3.0L), 8.5:1 CR, Schneider Stage II cam, Holset HY35W, Megasquirt, Suzuki GSXR ITB's and home made intake plenum, Z32 transmission, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, ACT stage II clutch and pressure plate, coil-overs, vented 4x4 front brakes, 240sx rear brakes, Corbeau FX1 Pro seat, (soon to be half cage) and still debating the paint.. hurm

#26 74Adam

74Adam

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 216 posts
  • LocationDallas, Texas

Posted 05 June 2007 - 10:24 AM

true....true

#27 wigenOut-S30

wigenOut-S30

    HybridZ Supporter

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1097 posts
  • LocationMobile AL

Posted 07 June 2007 - 09:01 PM

Scott, that looks amaizing!! Can you take a couple of pics from the front looking into it? I have started working on mine, Dont know how far I am going to take it yet.. but I know I am starting off connecting the airdam to the Rad support.

1977 S30: L28 turbo/intercooled:385rwhp 390TQ:11.56@122

gallery_372_579_19959.jpg


#28 240hoke

240hoke

    Totally Addicted

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1427 posts
  • LocationNC

Posted 09 June 2007 - 08:48 AM

Hey guys,

lots of neat work going on in the front end. I'm working on mine too right now. I have even more crap im trying to get around though.

However I thought i would through this out before people start buying sheetmetal....

You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.

Ill post some pictures when i get done.. if i get done lol ....

1971 240z w/ VQ35DE

www.HokePerformance.com

Modern Performance. Vintage Style. 

FaceBook Page


#29 240hoke

240hoke

    Totally Addicted

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1427 posts
  • LocationNC

Posted 09 June 2007 - 10:24 AM

Okay here is a picture of what im talking about:
Posted Image

and here is the NIGHTMARE im working with:
Posted Image

Posted Image


Im not exactly sure how to go about sealing everything up I can make an attempt at ducting but sealing will be an issue... i might end up just blocking some of the front end off.

1971 240z w/ VQ35DE

www.HokePerformance.com

Modern Performance. Vintage Style. 

FaceBook Page


#30 Daeron

Daeron

    DON'T PANIC

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2129 posts
  • LocationWPB, Florida USA

Posted 09 June 2007 - 10:28 AM

You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.



I was thinking about the same thing, but it was an idea rather than an experience. My dad has used a fiberglass kennel cage as "stock" for floorboard repairs before, and I've done a bit of rudimentary glasswork in my own day. I was actually halfway wondering if you could mock something up with cardboard, cover the cardboard with wax paper, and use that to lay down a primary layer of glass, and maybe if needed go back and add a sheet or two once you peel it off of the mold..
Fusible Links blow.

1-5-3-6-2-4, counter-clockwise from 9 o'clock when viewing from driver side fender

There's something about a white Nissan......
Wisdom is knowing how much you do not know.
"Indeed, if fish had fish-lore, and Wise-fish, it is probable that the business of anglers would be little hindered." -JRR Tolkien

ALL YOUR BOOST ARE BELONG TO US

#31 240hoke

240hoke

    Totally Addicted

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1427 posts
  • LocationNC

Posted 09 June 2007 - 10:36 AM

Yea that entirely possible, alot of people make quick molds out of cardboard, foam or whatever and cover it with clear packing tape and just lay the glass on top of that... works well. Its not show quality, it isnt smooth on the outside but it works.

1971 240z w/ VQ35DE

www.HokePerformance.com

Modern Performance. Vintage Style. 

FaceBook Page


#32 Dragonfly

Dragonfly

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 637 posts
  • LocationSan Diego, CA

Posted 09 June 2007 - 10:03 PM

Hey guys,

lots of neat work going on in the front end. I'm working on mine too right now. I have even more crap im trying to get around though.

However I thought i would through this out before people start buying sheetmetal....

You can take a flat piece of glass or sheetmetal and lay carbon fiber or fiberglass on it. Just wax the glass good and then apply the cloth and resin, let it dry and peel your carbon sheet off. Its easy to cut and work with, is light and strong. For connecting it you can get a piece of angle iron and make 90 degree corners and rivot or use sheetmetal screws to hold it all together.

Ill post some pictures when i get done.. if i get done lol ....


I like that idea and I may give it a try. With everything you have in the front of yours its going to be tough but I think if you buy some aluminum tape you should be able to seal everything up and as long as you cover everything with metal or fiberglass etc. you don't have to worry about the tape showing. You could also tape everthing up from the engine side but then it would show. Just had an idea... having seen your skills and inginuity you could probably make a fiberglass facia to mount inside the engine compartment that would seal off everything but the radiator then use rubber moulding to seal around everything that has to penitrate the facia and to complete the seal around the radiator.

Dragonfly
Former Prez. Z Club of San Diego

If you take a short cut you will allways miss something.

3.0L n/a 240z

#33 ZR8ED

ZR8ED

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 942 posts
  • LocationToronto GTA

Posted 11 June 2007 - 05:29 PM

wigenOut-S30 I'm not too sure what you mean by front end shots? There is not much to see it is so hidden. The only really visible part is the lower sheet of aluminum that goes from the air dam to the top of the lower rad support. The sheet almost touches the rad. It actually passes under the i/c (less than an inch of clearance.) I left it like that so I can remove it with reasonable effort.

I am still blending function/form and removability for servicing the car. I takes some thought on how to put it together, and to make sure I can assemble and dissasemble it.

Anyhoo here are the requested shots. Let me know if ya need some more info.

Posted Image

Posted Image
Posted Image
1986 Porsche 944 Cabriolet, Gemballa Bodykit, mild mods
1978 280Z VG30ET Intercooled T3/T4, MS&S, 300RWHP 350ft/lbs SOLD

#34 Doc Hawk

Doc Hawk

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 151 posts
  • LocationSan Diego

Posted 16 June 2007 - 03:14 PM

240hoke, could you consider relocating your reservoir tank to the inside of the engine compartment instead of out front of the radiator? That would go one step towards de-complicating the airflow and sealing puzzle you have up there with your CAI and intercooler.

- Doc

#35 proxlamus©

proxlamus©

    I need a hug...

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2107 posts
  • LocationAurora, Colorado

Posted 17 June 2007 - 01:52 PM

I took the car out to the track yesterday..

HUGE HUGE HUGE difference..

I used to be on the verge of overheating and probably around 200-220 degrees after a few laps.

Yesterday I reached a maximum temperature of 170 degrees with my 160 degree thermostat. all WITHOUT a fan!
Currently on a rotisserie for a full restoration - L28 with 9mm rods, 88mm Ross pistons (3.0L), 8.5:1 CR, Schneider Stage II cam, Holset HY35W, Megasquirt, Suzuki GSXR ITB's and home made intake plenum, Z32 transmission, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, ACT stage II clutch and pressure plate, coil-overs, vented 4x4 front brakes, 240sx rear brakes, Corbeau FX1 Pro seat, (soon to be half cage) and still debating the paint.. hurm

#36 jhaag

jhaag

    HybridZ Supporter

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 184 posts
  • LocationDenver, CO

Posted 18 June 2007 - 07:34 PM

Ryan: I enjoyed looking at your car on Saturday. I couldn't stay long (I left about when the cars first went on the track) but it was cool to see it. Sorry I didn't get a chance to talk to you.

John

John Haag
1979 280ZX GL: 350 TPI w/ 700R4, R200 3.9 Quaife (from Ross) w/ CVs, coated JTR headers, suspension bushings, AL driveshaft, power rack & pinion steering, relocated battery, Ron Davis radiator, Eibach lowering springs, Tokiko Illumina (front) and Tokiko HP (rear).


#37 hughdogz

hughdogz

    dogZhuge

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 738 posts
  • LocationPortland, Orygun

Posted 10 August 2007 - 04:16 PM

Almost finished with the lower pan on my 280ZX, but I still have to figure out how to finish up the sides and do a top now. I might have to make a cross bracket...it seems like that is how Scott did his.

Pics are over in my project page: http://forums.hybrid...319&postcount=3

#38 proxlamus©

proxlamus©

    I need a hug...

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2107 posts
  • LocationAurora, Colorado

Posted 11 August 2007 - 09:11 PM

Hugh that looks amazing!

Definatly beautiful workmanship!

wow wow wow
Currently on a rotisserie for a full restoration - L28 with 9mm rods, 88mm Ross pistons (3.0L), 8.5:1 CR, Schneider Stage II cam, Holset HY35W, Megasquirt, Suzuki GSXR ITB's and home made intake plenum, Z32 transmission, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, ACT stage II clutch and pressure plate, coil-overs, vented 4x4 front brakes, 240sx rear brakes, Corbeau FX1 Pro seat, (soon to be half cage) and still debating the paint.. hurm

#39 hughdogz

hughdogz

    dogZhuge

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 738 posts
  • LocationPortland, Orygun

Posted 13 August 2007 - 01:10 PM

Prox, hey thanks for the complement. It means a lot to me coming from one of you guys...and I probably couldn't (or wouldn't) have done it without Hybridz!! :2thumbs:

#40 fhptom

fhptom

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 206 posts
  • LocationOviedo FL

Posted 05 December 2007 - 05:47 PM

I have been watching to see what others are doing. It seems just as many are blocking off lower portion as compared to upper. Is it just owners choice? Or does one work better that other?

I played with closing off bottom half. Just seemed to work better.http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=4451&stc=1&d=1196905538http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=4452&stc=1&d=1196905538

Attached Files


1974 - 11/74 260Z RLS030-0066841
From rebuilt to stripped out to race...

I Live for a Living....





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users