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After doing some reading.. I blocked off the upper grill *pics*


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#41 fhptom

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Posted 06 December 2007 - 04:56 AM

Well now that I tossed all night trying to think why my fab went so easy I realized all I did was basically cut my radiator size in half by taking my bottom piece straight across.

Obviously, I need to go in about 4" then angle down about 45 degrees to the bottom of my radiator so I utilize the entire radiator for cooling.

That is why it is always good to do a mock up with junk laying around the shop before using the good stuff.

Tom

1974 - 11/74 260Z RLS030-0066841
From rebuilt to stripped out to race...

I Live for a Living....


#42 Challenger

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Posted 13 December 2007 - 11:40 PM

Do you think it makes a difference having the whole radiator open but only a 3x.5 ft opening letting air in compared to part of the radiator open and a 3x.5 ft opening?

Hard to explain but hopefully you understand.
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#43 Doc Hawk

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Posted 14 December 2007 - 07:10 AM

Yes, it will, both in terms of cooling and in aero. Your description is pretty hard to understand (I wish you'd spent a little more effort in explaining it clearly), but from what I gather you're talking about exposing the entire radiator surface within your airbox, vs. enclosing only part of it in the airbox and letting the other part hang out.

Cooling would probably be sufficient only partly enclosed, so long as the airbox was engineered well. Unfortunately it is beyond most of our time and talent to engineer an airbox that will give smooth, laminar flows and eliminate pockets of dead air. If it were me, I'd do it right and enclose most of the radiator.

As far as the opening size goes, our intake grilles are huge, so don't worry about that until you're getting down below a square foot.

Aero will also be affected, unless you are also adding a subframe tray under the car. The outside surface of the bottom of the airbox affects the air behind your front valence or airdam, so changing that angle and height will change the aero impact on the nose. To what degree, I do not know, as I haven't seen any aero data on that and I'm not smart enough to have a reasonable guess.
David
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#44 Challenger

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Posted 14 December 2007 - 01:53 PM

I spent awhile trying to find a way to word it. Even your description was hard to understand.

A way to think of it is a 3x.5 ft opening exposing the same area of the radiator compared to 3x.5 ft opening that opens to the entire radiator.

At the bottom is a picture of what I have planned.
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#45 Evan Purple240zt

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Posted 14 December 2007 - 02:42 PM

I totally understand what your saying. The same frontal opening, with the back of the duct, say for example, covering the entire radiator OR half of it.

If you don't build the duct to cover the entire frontal area you are losing out on cooling capacity. You will only be cooling half the rad, and its harder to force the same amount of air through half the fins.

Evan

BTW, did anybody read this thing about ducting in Maximum boost? Basically said as long as frontal area is 25% or more then the back of the duct you are still gaining efficiency due to the air not bouncing off the front and going around the sides.
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#46 fhptom

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Posted 21 December 2007 - 07:15 AM

http://forums.hybrid...=1&d=1198250010

Well here is my enclosure. I painted the front piece to match my car.

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1974 - 11/74 260Z RLS030-0066841
From rebuilt to stripped out to race...

I Live for a Living....


#47 Challenger

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Posted 21 December 2007 - 11:33 AM

Like mentioned before you need to seal off the area from the radiator support to the top of your grill. Then you have to seal all the of the other openings around the radiator. Key is to only have air going through the radiator.
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#48 Challenger

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 01:40 PM

Anyone have an easy way of removing the tortion bars with the hood on? Im guessing it has to be when the hoods down.

EDIT- I ended up tieing them together and cutting one. Once I had that out I muscled out the other one. I never realized how heavy my hood is.
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#49 Dragonfly

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 10:15 PM

Anyone have an easy way of removing the tortion bars with the hood on? Im guessing it has to be when the hoods down.

EDIT- I ended up tieing them together and cutting one. Once I had that out I muscled out the other one. I never realized how heavy my hood is.


Yeah the hood is pretty heavy (about 45 lbs or so). Now that you have removed those torsion springs here is something you can use to replace them and still achieve your goals. http://store.zracepr...ts.php#gasshock

Dragonfly
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#50 Challenger

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 10:25 PM

I dont know $150 alot, I can deal with it.

Well today I cut out the upper piece that stretches from the top of the grill to above the radiator (like ZR8ED's). Fits good but I dont know how to mount it, any ideas?
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#51 Dragonfly

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 10:31 PM

I dont know $150 alot, I can deal with it.

Well today I cut out the upper piece that stretches from the top of the grill to above the radiator (like ZR8ED's). Fits good but I dont know how to mount it, any ideas?


I should have mentioned it in the post above but if you mention my name (Dragonfly or Miles) he will give you at least 10% off the listed price (that goes for anyone). With that kit you get the templates as well as all the hardware and the correct tension pressure catridges and of course full step by step instructions.

I'm going to have to go back and look at ZR8ED's pics again to see exactly what you have done, then I will probably toss my 2 cents out there for you.

Dragonfly
Former Prez. Z Club of San Diego

If you take a short cut you will allways miss something.

3.0L n/a 240z

#52 Dragonfly

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 10:51 PM

If you take a closer look at ZR8ED's pictures you will notice that to the sides of the radiator he has pieces of metal (ends of the box) he is using them as his attachment points. I had the same thing on my old setup, the two pieces that make up the sides of the box have a 1/2" lip bent at 90*, then the lips have holes drilled in them and the are bolted at the bottom and the top of the box. The piece that you have made and are talking about (from what I can tell by what you wrote) is the top of the box it just extends past the sides thats all.

Here is a picture of the cardboard mock up I had for mine at one time.
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This is what I ended up going with for the time being.
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Dragonfly
Former Prez. Z Club of San Diego

If you take a short cut you will allways miss something.

3.0L n/a 240z

#53 Challenger

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 11:30 PM

Ive got everything together except the top piece and one small trim piece. It somehow fits perfect!

Yours looks good Ill try to get a camera to load pictures tomorrow.
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#54 Challenger

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Posted 25 December 2007 - 02:40 PM

Well here it is from the front. Still have to paint everything to make it look pretty (more rinolining), and mount the top piece.

Note the first picture doesnt have the black plastic pieces that go around the lights. When those are on it looks alot better.

Attached Files


Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#55 hughdogz

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Posted 25 December 2007 - 03:54 PM

Nice job Mopar!! It looks like you took your time.

#56 Challenger

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Posted 25 December 2007 - 04:04 PM

Thanks, Ive got alittle trimming to do but it came out good.
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#57 proxlamus©

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Posted 26 December 2007 - 04:51 PM

I think everyone put me to shame. LoL..

see what happens when you rush things?! ugh
Currently on a rotisserie for a full restoration - L28 with 9mm rods, 88mm Ross pistons (3.0L), 8.5:1 CR, Schneider Stage II cam, Holset HY35W, Megasquirt, Suzuki GSXR ITB's and home made intake plenum, Z32 transmission, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, ACT stage II clutch and pressure plate, coil-overs, vented 4x4 front brakes, 240sx rear brakes, Corbeau FX1 Pro seat, (soon to be half cage) and still debating the paint.. hurm

#58 Challenger

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Posted 26 December 2007 - 04:54 PM

Mine took forever to make the templates. Went through a dozen posterboards.
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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#59 Dragonfly

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Posted 26 December 2007 - 10:46 PM

Mine took forever to make the templates. Went through a dozen posterboards.


Welcome to my world, its hard to see in the pic but I used tons of tape and who knows how many slivers of cardboard to make my templates. Even doing it like that I still had to tweak and adjust the metal ones to get them predominantly how I wanted them.

Dragonfly
Former Prez. Z Club of San Diego

If you take a short cut you will allways miss something.

3.0L n/a 240z

#60 Challenger

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Posted 26 December 2007 - 11:31 PM

Dragonfly have you noticed any improvement in cooling/downforce?
Derek
78 280z Dark Shadow Grey 2+2: L28et, MS2, HX35W, FMIC, Tial WG, Tokicos, Rear Disks, bla, bla, bla.
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