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Anyone recover their own panels themselves?


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#1 80LS1T

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Posted 31 May 2007 - 07:14 PM

I just ordered some new door panel skins for my car but I'm not too sure yet what to use to glue/secure them to the door panel backing? I am also going to need to recover the headliner, drivers rear panel and the tail light panel in my car.

So what kind of adhesive have you guys used? I've tried the 3M trim adhesive before but it doesn't seem to hold up very well(seems ok at first but the glue seems to let go after a while).


Guy
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6/20/08...first time at the track.... 12.8@110mph all motor.
*12.319@116.601mph 2.037s 60'<---sucks! with some nitrous!

#2 zcarnut

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Posted 01 June 2007 - 06:04 AM

I’ve used the 3M spray adhesive products with great results. They are widely used in upholstery repair shops. Just make sure you use the correct 3M product. They make an almost bewildering array of spray adhesives:

08074 Spray Trim Adhesive. Use on lightweight materials only or with materials that the adhesive will soak through. Designed for attaching upholstery cloth, trunk liners and for assisting with positioning applications where mechanical fasteners will be holding the material in place. Do not use for bonding heavy materials like automotive headliners. Safe to use on styrofoam.

08080 General Trim Adhesive. For lightweight headliners or other lightweight materials including adequately supported flexible vinyl, foams, insulation, and fabrics. Low soak through. You can reposition the materials during assembly (very handy feature).

08090 3M Super Trim Adhesive. High strength. For use on heavy materials like headliners and thick vinyl. Stronger than 08080. Safe to use on foam padding. Not recommended for styrofoam. Will soak through lightweight materials and cloth.

08091 3M Super Trim Adhesive. Stronger than 08090. Designed for use with exterior materials like vinyl tops and hood silencer pads where high strength and heat resistance are required.


Remember to always follow the exact instructions on the can label. In general, all above are contact adhesives which means that you spray both materials you are joining, wait the appropriate time (5 min or so) and then join the materials. Better results are obtained with new materials (don’t ever reuse old foam padding).

My recommendations are to use 08080 on lightweight upholstery cloth that the adhesive will soak through, 08090 on headliners and door panels, and 08091 on hood silencer pads. Do not use 08074 at all. Remember, the stronger the adhesive the more likelihood of damaging the materials to be joined and the price goes up as well.
Steve Golik
Huntsville AL
1970 240Z 1974 260Z 1979 810 2008 G37S
"35 years of Z car ownership"

#3 COZY Z COLE

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Posted 03 June 2007 - 04:04 AM

Good info....

LARRY
Said to many times!! My uncle, brother, dad, friend, _____ has a Z just like yours..... 1975 280Z 355 SBC with WEIAND 144 PRO-STREET BLOWER, R-230 conv.

#4 80LS1T

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Posted 07 June 2007 - 09:54 PM

Thanks for that info(sorry I couldn't post for a few days, computer was getting fixed)! I will try that 8080 and 8090 stuff. I think I was using the 8074 and it just wasn't strong enough.

Guy
Posted Image
6/20/08...first time at the track.... 12.8@110mph all motor.
*12.319@116.601mph 2.037s 60'<---sucks! with some nitrous!

#5 80LS1T

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Posted 10 June 2007 - 07:43 PM

I just got my door skins from www.datsunrestore.com. They actually sent a spray with the skins called "Romero's Foam and Fabric Adhesive." I used it one 1 panel today and it seems to work really well on the foam backed skin. I don't know where you would get it though, atleast I can't find it online anywhere? The can say's to reorder call (310)631-9181. Their address is 11311 S Atlantic Blvd. Lynwood, CA 90262.

I bought the 8080 and 8090 today and I will be using it in the headligher and 2 other panels that will need to be covered. I will post the results of both glues once I'm done!

Guy
Posted Image
6/20/08...first time at the track.... 12.8@110mph all motor.
*12.319@116.601mph 2.037s 60'<---sucks! with some nitrous!

#6 David K

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Posted 10 June 2007 - 09:05 PM

Guy,

I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to stick the insulation and carpet on my speaker box. When that stuff dries, watch out. If you get it on your hands, watch out. Just be careful with this stuff, its sticky :)

http://solutions.3m....ot=GST1T4S9TCgv

High tack, high coverage and fast drying for permanently attaching foils, carpeting, lightweight foams, paper, cardboard, felt and, cloth to painted or unpainted metals, wood and hardboard.

#7 oldskoolZ

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Posted 26 June 2007 - 06:23 PM

i used(not that this pertains to u guys) but i used that 2 1/2" thick styrofoaom stuff u buy from lowes and traced the door paned the fabbed my own new age look door panels vie sand paper, knife, and palm sander, then coated it with a thin layer if fiber glass, then painted it black, looks amazing, and looks more modern than flat leather door panels.

#8 Tony D

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Posted 26 June 2007 - 07:16 PM

Hey, flat panels work...and are light!
No panels would be even better, but my wife likes the armrests and not getting grease on her blouse from the window mechanisim when there isn't a panel there...

So flat is where it's at for me!

LOL

#9 BillZ260

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Posted 27 June 2007 - 07:12 AM

Great Sticky :)

Tony, can you post a pic of your FLAT panels? I thing this is what I'll end up doing but I'd like to see some. I don't think I'll replace w/ armrests though, maybe some simple leather pulls with aluminum ends or something similar.
Bill
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Early 260/355/T-5

I can now drive it around the block anytime I want!!!

#10 naviathan

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Posted 27 June 2007 - 08:01 AM

i used(not that this pertains to u guys) but i used that 2 1/2" thick styrofoaom stuff u buy from lowes and traced the door paned the fabbed my own new age look door panels vie sand paper, knife, and palm sander, then coated it with a thin layer if fiber glass, then painted it black, looks amazing, and looks more modern than flat leather door panels.

I'd like to see these panels, oldskoolZ.
77 S30 - One day I will come back to this one.
82 Fairlady 280z - For Sale - $1500
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#11 NickandM 72 240Z

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Posted 18 July 2007 - 01:06 AM

I'd also be really interested to see those panels oldschoolZ, I'm thinkin about doing exactly the same, you could easily incorporate a trendy handle and I thought I big curvey Z would look sweet in the door skin

#12 Evan Purple240zt

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Posted 02 November 2007 - 01:24 PM

At one point I did a pair of door panels by cutting up some panels from another car. I used the armrest etc... bolted it all together then glassed it.

Works well, and you don't have to sweat making both sides identical. This is only feasable if you can get donor panels cheap!

Evan
1995 240sx....
1972 240z RIP

#13 bens1088

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Posted 26 August 2008 - 09:16 AM

Just to throw it in here, you can recolor any interior part. I got a new tan headliner from a pick and pull but my interior is black. i went to my interior guy and he told me to get SEM Color Coat Flexible Coating. I used Satin Black 15243 on my interior and it looks beautiful. Its a little expensive ($12 a can) but it does wonders

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260z/280z Tail Light Upgrades Available

 


#14 Jaspendlove

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Posted 26 August 2008 - 10:08 AM

Thanks for the info. I will be needing to use it very soon.

#15 bens1088

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Posted 26 August 2008 - 02:56 PM

Its very hard to find too. I only know of two places in the north bay that sell it. And these are like "in an alley way" shops

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www.dapperlighting.com Headlight upgrades for all 240z-280zx's

260z/280z Tail Light Upgrades Available

 


#16 dhp123166

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 11:18 AM

I am using 1/8" foam skins that I picked up free from a foam supplier.

They are the ends of the huge roll that they shave off and usually discard.

I took the stock vinyl and foam off and filled all holes and cracks with Bondo.

I painted the metal so the foam will only cover the cardboard/ masonite.

I am about to glue using some Loctite spray adhesive.

To remount I am not using those lame plastic rivets.

Since it is so light I am mounting it with "Extreme Velcro".

Instead of the felt widow strip I am using foam weatherstripping.

Total cost for both doors; $25.00

P.S.; The foam is easy to work with, durable and forgiving...

#17 dhp123166

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 08:01 AM

It was cheap and "easy".

Also it is easily replacable if I want to go with another material...

#18 BillZ260

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 08:50 AM

Any shots of in-process work or the foam you used?
Bill
----------------------

Early 260/355/T-5

I can now drive it around the block anytime I want!!!

#19 dhp123166

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 07:30 PM

Some kind of closed cell foam cut to 1/8"...

It's really easy to do, just a little time consuming...

#20 Zdigg

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Posted 22 October 2008 - 02:15 PM

i'm doing the same as dhp but I am shaving the armrest/handles... I just dont like the way they look.
work in progress.

1974 260z, 73' 240z drive train.
1973 240z, (parts car) considering sandcar...:biggrin:.
1996 Toyota Corolla (sold).
2007 Isuzu I-290(sold, alas my fair truck)
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