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80LS1T

Anyone recover their own panels themselves?

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80LS1T    28

I just ordered some new door panel skins for my car but I'm not too sure yet what to use to glue/secure them to the door panel backing? I am also going to need to recover the headliner, drivers rear panel and the tail light panel in my car.

 

So what kind of adhesive have you guys used? I've tried the 3M trim adhesive before but it doesn't seem to hold up very well(seems ok at first but the glue seems to let go after a while).

 

 

Guy

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zcarnut    10

I’ve used the 3M spray adhesive products with great results. They are widely used in upholstery repair shops. Just make sure you use the correct 3M product. They make an almost bewildering array of spray adhesives:

 

08074 Spray Trim Adhesive. Use on lightweight materials only or with materials that the adhesive will soak through. Designed for attaching upholstery cloth, trunk liners and for assisting with positioning applications where mechanical fasteners will be holding the material in place. Do not use for bonding heavy materials like automotive headliners. Safe to use on styrofoam.

 

08080 General Trim Adhesive. For lightweight headliners or other lightweight materials including adequately supported flexible vinyl, foams, insulation, and fabrics. Low soak through. You can reposition the materials during assembly (very handy feature).

 

08090 3M Super Trim Adhesive. High strength. For use on heavy materials like headliners and thick vinyl. Stronger than 08080. Safe to use on foam padding. Not recommended for styrofoam. Will soak through lightweight materials and cloth.

 

08091 3M Super Trim Adhesive. Stronger than 08090. Designed for use with exterior materials like vinyl tops and hood silencer pads where high strength and heat resistance are required.

 

 

Remember to always follow the exact instructions on the can label. In general, all above are contact adhesives which means that you spray both materials you are joining, wait the appropriate time (5 min or so) and then join the materials. Better results are obtained with new materials (don’t ever reuse old foam padding).

 

My recommendations are to use 08080 on lightweight upholstery cloth that the adhesive will soak through, 08090 on headliners and door panels, and 08091 on hood silencer pads. Do not use 08074 at all. Remember, the stronger the adhesive the more likelihood of damaging the materials to be joined and the price goes up as well.

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80LS1T    28

I just got my door skins from www.datsunrestore.com. They actually sent a spray with the skins called "Romero's Foam and Fabric Adhesive." I used it one 1 panel today and it seems to work really well on the foam backed skin. I don't know where you would get it though, atleast I can't find it online anywhere? The can say's to reorder call (310)631-9181. Their address is 11311 S Atlantic Blvd. Lynwood, CA 90262.

 

I bought the 8080 and 8090 today and I will be using it in the headligher and 2 other panels that will need to be covered. I will post the results of both glues once I'm done!

 

Guy

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David K    2

Guy,

 

I used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to stick the insulation and carpet on my speaker box. When that stuff dries, watch out. If you get it on your hands, watch out. Just be careful with this stuff, its sticky :)

 

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_portal&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=SC2785KN7Pgl&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=5DLCFLVQ0Pbe&PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv

 

High tack, high coverage and fast drying for permanently attaching foils, carpeting, lightweight foams, paper, cardboard, felt and, cloth to painted or unpainted metals, wood and hardboard.

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oldskoolZ    10

i used(not that this pertains to u guys) but i used that 2 1/2" thick styrofoaom stuff u buy from lowes and traced the door paned the fabbed my own new age look door panels vie sand paper, knife, and palm sander, then coated it with a thin layer if fiber glass, then painted it black, looks amazing, and looks more modern than flat leather door panels.

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Tony D    143

Hey, flat panels work...and are light!

No panels would be even better, but my wife likes the armrests and not getting grease on her blouse from the window mechanisim when there isn't a panel there...

 

So flat is where it's at for me!

 

LOL

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BillZ260    2

Great Sticky :)

 

Tony, can you post a pic of your FLAT panels? I thing this is what I'll end up doing but I'd like to see some. I don't think I'll replace w/ armrests though, maybe some simple leather pulls with aluminum ends or something similar.

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naviathan    15
i used(not that this pertains to u guys) but i used that 2 1/2" thick styrofoaom stuff u buy from lowes and traced the door paned the fabbed my own new age look door panels vie sand paper, knife, and palm sander, then coated it with a thin layer if fiber glass, then painted it black, looks amazing, and looks more modern than flat leather door panels.

I'd like to see these panels, oldskoolZ.

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At one point I did a pair of door panels by cutting up some panels from another car. I used the armrest etc... bolted it all together then glassed it.

 

Works well, and you don't have to sweat making both sides identical. This is only feasable if you can get donor panels cheap!

 

Evan

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bens1088    12

Just to throw it in here, you can recolor any interior part. I got a new tan headliner from a pick and pull but my interior is black. i went to my interior guy and he told me to get SEM Color Coat Flexible Coating. I used Satin Black 15243 on my interior and it looks beautiful. Its a little expensive ($12 a can) but it does wonders

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dhp123166    12

I am using 1/8" foam skins that I picked up free from a foam supplier.

 

They are the ends of the huge roll that they shave off and usually discard.

 

I took the stock vinyl and foam off and filled all holes and cracks with Bondo.

 

I painted the metal so the foam will only cover the cardboard/ masonite.

 

I am about to glue using some Loctite spray adhesive.

 

To remount I am not using those lame plastic rivets.

 

Since it is so light I am mounting it with "Extreme Velcro".

 

Instead of the felt widow strip I am using foam weatherstripping.

 

Total cost for both doors; $25.00

 

P.S.; The foam is easy to work with, durable and forgiving...

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WizardBlack    13

I am taking the vinyl off of my door panels, grinding the rivets to remove the cardboard lower section from the upper metal section and cutting new aluminum panels for the same profile as the cardboard. Afterwards, the entire thing will be covered in alcantara. I will use a bit of silicone caulk to fill the bit of gap/transition from the aluminum to steel so you don't see it when it's covered. The only downside is that the door handle is recessed and will need to be relocated or remounted. I ordered a Lokar door cable kit for this. I have decided on what to do for the actual handle inside, yet. My car is partially stripped, caged, etc., so I want something small and light.

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FricFrac    9
Just to throw it in here, you can recolor any interior part. I got a new tan headliner from a pick and pull but my interior is black. i went to my interior guy and he told me to get SEM Color Coat Flexible Coating. I used Satin Black 15243 on my interior and it looks beautiful. Its a little expensive ($12 a can) but it does wonders

 

I redid the entire interior of my '81 280ZXGL with the SEM stuff and it works great. I even used it on the leather seats and its pretty amazing stuff. Definately recomend it.

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FricFrac    9

Just remember what the padded vinyl did on our cars. I'd go with regular vinyl if you plan on keeping it unless you need the padded vinyl for ah... padding ;P Also aluminum scratches pretty easily but stainless is a lot tougher (tougher to work with too though...) I had a set of door sills made out of stainless but even those I'm concerned about the abuse they'll take.

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