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RB26DETT into 240Z Beginner Progress

Am I a complete idiot?  

30 members have voted

  1. 1. Am I a complete idiot?

    • Yes, either that or completely insane.
    • No, props to you!


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hi guys, Hayden here this is my first post to hybridz

im looking too rb26dett my 280zx, ive got a rb26dett with 26box lined up for 5.5k im new to the rbz conversion so bare with me :P

 

First of all i would like a few opinions on the makeing of the custom sump. My old man is a fitter welder by trade, is it a difficult task? will i have to design my own? or would anyone have a template that i could follow?

 

Secondly, after setting up the awd transmition too rear, will the stock 280 driveshaft fit? or is there a driveshaft out of something else that will fit snugg?

 

thanks guys!

much help needed :P

 

the sump may be a problem with the 280zx front crossmember.

 

the front drive axles need only be removed in order to have the car be RWD. Driveshaft fitment you'd need to check. There is no AWD S130 with an RB26 box that I know of. It might be worth it to sell to someone and get a 25box.

 

and 5.5 K? you can find that for 4.5 or less

 

infact, you can get one with an RB25 transmission for about 4.5 give or take.

 

that should set you right up

 

as for the custom sump, greddy and trust make weld'on sumps =) so if ur old man is a welder, buy one, and then get the dimensions, copy it, and then sell the greddy one ebay when you're done :D

 

not a bad idea.

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AND the waste gate on one of the turbos is smashed. Greaaaaaat.

 

...

 

I'm seeing 5 wires on the mafs, but the wiring diagram I bought for r32s shows a 5plug with 4 wires...

 

 

then they might share this diagram

397102_122_full.jpg

 

 

got it from cardomain, here:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/397102/4

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Hey getoffmyinternet,

 

I would recommend researching a lot more before you go on with this project. What good are the mounts for a good price if they are not made to fit the RB in a S30? And depending on what you will do, if you go with a stand alone EMS you might not even need the MAFs. Research a lot or you'll end up spending a lot more money than needed. Just some friendly advice :burnout:

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yeah, unless you have a powerFC or something that makes use of the MAF then i wouldn't bother with getting another one right away.

 

see if you can scrounge up some more money before you buy the MAF set.

 

you can do more with the standalone

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It seems that it would be both cheaper and easier to get the mafs than to buy a standalone ems because one of those would be much more of a hassle to put in than one I already have that is mostly together, is built for the engine, and just needs a few accessories to be complete. Don't the pros outweigh the cons of going with the stock ems since I am already heading that direction?

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It seems that it would be both cheaper and easier to get the mafs than to buy a standalone ems because one of those would be much more of a hassle to put in than one I already have that is mostly together, is built for the engine, and just needs a few accessories to be complete. Don't the pros outweigh the cons of going with the stock ems since I am already heading that direction?

 

well if you get an alternate MAF, then you have to rom-tune the stock ems to reconfigure it's data acquisition from the MAF or use a piggyback system, which will start to add up after a couple of them are piggybacked onto one another.

 

and from there it becomes a guessing game, and not quite a proper tune.

 

but it's ok for moderate levels of power.

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My advice, this being your first swap, is to make it as stock as you can. makes getting bugs ironed out 100x easier.

 

My first real turbo swap was an L28t with SDS etc... it took ALONG time because I was so green. I should have stuck it in there stock and called it good.

 

Evan

 

I guess that's a more sensible way of looking at it.

 

If you wanna build the car and have immediate fun with it, it's probably the best bet. you can always add EMS later.

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Guy name for a Z is good and not new think of project Hugo that is gonna be a beast ! Im going to keep a close eye on your updates because im green to and want the RB swap too . But i will be going with infinity machining mounts tho .

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Okay so obviously progress is slow because I'm still working out the kinks. It doesn't matter too much how fast I go at this point because I want to be as ready as possible before my car is out of service. That said, I doubt I currently have all the funds to buy everything. WHEN I MY FIRST CHECK COMING?? Plus, my dad's truck is in the shop--the very one I will need to drive while mine is out. :(

 

Anyway, I figured I'd recap my thoughts and plan, and post a pic or two just because. Again, I plan on doing a full writeup at the end for anyone who might be interested in a full "guide"

 

Grocery List:

 

radiator: buy new, or possibly add rows to current one

intercooler: going basic

fuel pump: Bosche 0580254909 is closest match, looking for a deal

fuel pump regulator: still not sure if I'll need one if I get a near stock pump

clutch slave cylinder: my car may also need a new master

drive shaft: I hear 300zxtt is a start with custom length modification

clutch: buy new or have old relined

flywheel: buy new or resurface (really bad wannabe stick jockey)

downpipe: not sure if stock will fit, otherwise completely from scratch

exhaust: leave it to a muffler shop (any ideas on sound?)

motor mounts: looking for cheaper options than infiniti mounts

oil pan: probably from nismoparts, but fab is a possibility

afms: and filters of course

assorted relays: might be harder to find, not sure which I need still

diode and resistors?: missing from harness, for injectors

 

misc: wiring, hoses, shift boot, throttle cable etc. etc. most of which will only present themselves after the engine sits

 

Current status: tracing wires and whatnot. It doesn't seem as hard as I initially thought. Most of the plugs will obviously be cut out. I didn't pick up this for the power steering and anti-lock brakes.

 

BTW: If there is anyone out there that wants the original pan or steering pump let me know. Also, I'll be selling my 5spd and the engine. So far it seems that the engine will be better separated since there's not a crazy market for l24s and stuff like the SUs sell on ebay not bad.

 

1.jpg

2.jpg

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Wow, clutches are so cheap on ebay, screw getting the old one refinished. I'm almost tempted to get a 5 puck for like the same price as the stock, but this is supposed to be my daily driver so...

 

i try not to do the whole hear-say thing, but a couple of friends tell me that the RB25 clutches on Ebay are usually rated about 100 - 200 ft lbs more capacity than they can actually hold if it's a high number like 600 - 700.

 

The regular ones are @ 390 to 450ish hp are marketed for about 100 ft.lbs more than what they can take.

 

I guess it's dependent more so on the driver if you use it as a daily grind. But keep yourself free of over estimations from cheap after market brands or ones you haven't had discerning enthusiasts give good input on.

 

I was going to buy a 320ftlbs clutch from JGY Customs, but I MIGHT go with the 390 ft.lbs version. I think for the cash it's worth it.

 

You can also use 300zx N/A aftermarket clutches, they are 240 mm as well.

 

RB20 ones should work too, but the good thing about the N/A Z32 300zx clutches are that well known American made brands are more abundant than even japanese or chinese/taiwanese aftermarket clutches for RB25's or even 300zx z32's as well.

 

Then again I did buy a lightweight "japanese" no name flywheel, but it's a lightweight one piece steel billet, and i've heard good things based on the sellers name on ebay, and also some feedback regarding this flywheel in a current RB25 car too.

 

I would go with one that someone you trust with their driving has told you is good for daily or one that someone on here got for a good price and feels is good.

 

But i would wait for some input on the clutch brands before layin the hammer down.

 

 

I'm glad that your build is coming together quite quickly, too =)

 

It's fun at this stage, no!?

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I suppose that's a good call all around. Right now it actually seems that there's only one seller with a bunch of 6 pucks for the rb26 but I don't have any business cards and in terms of friends I think I'm alone in my principles...

 

I'm not really familiar with which brand names are the best either.

 

If I were to buy one for a 300 off ebay I'd probably be in the same boat. Are the flywheels the same as well?

 

Of course if there's anyone that has a clutch for sell let me know.

 

Thanks for the heads up ;)

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I suppose that's a good call all around. Right now it actually seems that there's only one seller with a bunch of 6 pucks for the rb26 but I don't have any business cards and in terms of friends I think I'm alone in my principles...

 

I'm not really familiar with which brand names are the best either.

 

If I were to buy one for a 300 off ebay I'd probably be in the same boat. Are the flywheels the same as well?

 

Of course if there's anyone that has a clutch for sell let me know.

 

Thanks for the heads up ;)

 

RE: the flywheels.

 

I had messaged ebay user: mx83*gx81

 

I had asked what types of clutches he had that he has sold with his flywheel to other buyers.

 

Keep in mind that his flywheels are not SFI approved, and the one that I bought from JPS Trading company is EXACTLY the same as the one he sells. It looks EXACTLY as the one in his picture. He then proceeded to call me "dumb" for buying a flywheel from hong-kong (jps is from japan, and so is the product), and then he banned me from bidding on his merchandise. You will find assholes like that, and he's most likely peddling cheaper ♥♥♥♥ anyways. JPS Trading doesn't have 10,000 transactions with 99% positive feedback for nothing.

 

Calling someone dumb for not buying "your" product, and assuming that the alternative choice was "cheezy junk" anyway is not something I appreciate in a business model, especially when his similar product doesn't seem to carry any certification, and neither does mine. I think he's annoyed at the fact that I paid 260 + 85 shipping, when he's selling his for 320 + 30 bucks shipping or something.

 

I am personally going to go with a Spec Stage 2 clutch if I can find one for a good price.

I have a friend with a 355 SBC in his 3rd gen camaro, and he has a T56 with a Spec stage 1 clutch, and he said it's amazing but he should have went with the spec stage 2.

 

His car has roughly 350/350 hp/tq, and he's a car guy I trust, so for me, that's a good indication of their quality, considering he's been through MANY clutches in that car because it seems to like to eat a lot of parts and he can't seem to lighten the weight of his shoes much :P

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Sometimes it's just a given that a clutch is going to be cheap as hell and I wouldn't bid. Some on there have pictures that make you go "Are you serious?" to their claim that the tin can they're selling pulls 400ft lbs.

 

Are the 300zx flies also interchangeable? I bet there's plenty of market for the clutches too so I would assume it's pretty easy to find a good one.

 

I've seen a lot of stuff on ebay with the JPS tag to it, wasn't sure what they were all about, but I don't see any clutches that don't come with a fly for a pretty penny. I guess I'll keep looking into it.

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Sometimes it's just a given that a clutch is going to be cheap as hell and I wouldn't bid. Some on there have pictures that make you go "Are you serious?" to their claim that the tin can they're selling pulls 400ft lbs.

 

Are the 300zx flies also interchangeable? I bet there's plenty of market for the clutches too so I would assume it's pretty easy to find a good one.

 

I've seen a lot of stuff on ebay with the JPS tag to it, wasn't sure what they were all about, but I don't see any clutches that don't come with a fly for a pretty penny. I guess I'll keep looking into it.

 

All clutches with an integrated flywheel or a combo kit are a hefty price, but it may save you money in the end.

 

The N/A Z32 clutch MAY or MAY NOT fit, depending on who makes it. That's what I've been told, some clutch casings have weird designs that make the casing come in contact with the bellhousing, or something to that effect.

 

But there are good exedy and spec clutches, as well as ACT and Clutchmaster for the skyline engines, so you don't really have to look overseas.

 

Sure, the JDM clutches look different with their billet cut casings and all that, but ask yourself if you really need that...

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All clutches with an integrated flywheel or a combo kit are a hefty price, but it may save you money in the end.

 

The N/A Z32 clutch MAY or MAY NOT fit, depending on who makes it. That's what I've been told, some clutch casings have weird designs that make the casing come in contact with the bellhousing, or something to that effect.

 

But there are good exedy and spec clutches, as well as ACT and Clutchmaster for the skyline engines, so you don't really have to look overseas.

 

Sure, the JDM clutches look different with their billet cut casings and all that, but ask yourself if you really need that...

 

Okay, the cheap clutches I was seeing on ebay where either act or clutchmaster and they looked their price so I wasn't sure. You're saying they can be good, they are just overrated so I should get one rated at more than I need to be safe? Before I get a combo I'm going to get a price on resurfacing my fly and see if it will save me very much.

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Okay, the cheap clutches I was seeing on ebay where either act or clutchmaster and they looked their price so I wasn't sure. You're saying they can be good, they are just overrated so I should get one rated at more than I need to be safe? Before I get a combo I'm going to get a price on resurfacing my fly and see if it will save me very much.

 

hmmm Ive heard good things about ACT and Clutchmaster.

 

Be wary of eCLutchmaster, knockoff brand

 

A nissan enthusiast that i chat with says he would never go back to a single plate clutch again, due to having a twinny

 

but twins are expensive. however, the flywheel is integrated into the housing case, and it's also lightweight around 11 to 15 lbs, compared to what...27 lbs of standard flywheel weight?

 

For my build, I'm just gonna buy a relative good Spec 2 clutch, or a JGY version, and see how that fares. if it sucks, I'll upgrade to a twinny with as close flywheel weight as possible so it stays as close to the balanced weight as possible.

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