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1JZ 2JZ installation instructions for dummies,2 weeks, drive it!

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Idiots guide to installation,Two weeks from start to finish, two weekends, and a few hours a day.This has to be one of the easiest engine swaps ever, if Datsun had designed the car sans engine ,and had no problems with other companies machinery, this engine would have been right up there on the top of the list of possibles-20 year time gap aside. This is to get a 1J/ 2J running in your car, I'm not bothering to do anymore to it, it is double the power of a factory Dat, If you need the BOV(bolt on Viagra) easy to do later.Try it unmolested first, frightens the poo out of me!

Car has more grunt than a hippo with haemorrhoids!

The list, to get you running/driving. (brakes/steering/suspension can be done at your convienience. Check other threads for information, this is engine /transmission install only.)

pictures of (most) of my install are at

/http://www.flickr.com/photos/russjz-zed/sets/72157601989530227/detail/

 

 

What you need,

1) Basic mechanical experience, if you can remove,and replace an "L" series, you can do this.( that's providing the"L" still runs when you have re-installed)

 

2)tools to do the above, engine hoist, 4 or 5or 6 or7 wheel stands(the ones with a screw thread for height adjustments are ideal- "screwup stands") plus a welder, (or a friend, that can) 1/2 inch MDF board, a couple of square feet should be enough. angle grinder.

 

3) A 1J/2J gte engine/transmission combination, with rear/middle pan/sump. Turbo only ( hood clearance issues with NA inlet set up) IMHO get a half clip, reason.. prior to buying you can hook up a petrol tank/pump (and a silencer if you can) and hear it running. Also, there are a lot of little bits that you will find a use for,cost a heap if you need them. When you are up and running, the rest of it can be ebayed.

When you are happy with the way it runs, pull the engine, leave on everything you intend using in the car, gearbox/alternater/power steer/ aircon. etc ( page 3 pic025, and 028) make it fit from day 1 with what you want on it.

My swap was with a 1J GTE Vvt, the engine was set low enough to accomodate the 14mm extra height of a 2JZ.

 

4)enough space to make a mess for two weeks.

 

5) Several boxes of beer, full strength, you aren't going anwhere, forget the light strength rubbish,it never assisted anybodys thought process's.

 

6) pair of Jaguar XJS V12 engine mounts

 

7) nearly forgot, an S30

 

Day 1.

Set yourself up with all of the above, Time to start. Make sure you have put all the heavy bits(engine etc.) where you can access them, nothing like pulling an engine and finding there is not enough space to manouvre the old out, and the new in. We will assume you have the JZ engine/trans on the floor ready to go.

Remove the Dat engine and transmission, cut off the transmission tunnel mount "ears". open a beer,you have done enough for the day, you don't need stress, you do need lots of time to tell yourself(and anyone close) how smart you are... if this takes more than 1 day, it's probably because you opened the beer before you started.

 

Day 2.

Get the pair of Jaguar XJS V12 engine mounts, I have seen these on ebay (USA) for $30 a pair.I have used these in several swaps, TR8s, and with a 35mm spacer are a real good replacement for Z32 mounts at a fraction of the cost of genuine,(got pic's of how it's done if anyone interested)These mounts are great! proof that Jaguar can get some things right at least once in 30 plus years. Cut two pieces of flat 4mmx90mm plate at least a foot long, longer if you want to put extra strength into your rails, at about mid point drill a hole to locate the Jag mount, sit the plate on the rail, trim off the overhang with a grinder( leave a bit hanging out in the position of the Jag mount, mount should be positioned to sit about 3/4 of it's diameter on top of rail,(page1 pic's 067,071) (at this point it is easier to cut a couple of wooden plugs the diameter and height of the Jag mounts to use untill the final location on the rail is found-the bolt through the rubber gets in the way) No pic of this, put plate and dummy's on rail-DO NOT WELD ON YET!

This setup gets the weight of engine bearing down onto the top of the rails, Auto engineers dream! not stressing anything by having weight bearing in weird places/angles. and simple as well. Also gets the mounting point back ,in this position balance is 53% front 47% rear, that's with no spare, 10 litres fuel (2gall) nobody in it.

 

IMHO retaining either of the Dat engine mount uprights on the front frame, and/or the metal Toyota factory mounts on the block, is a mistake that will paint you into corners there is no need to be in.

Cut /grind the Dat mounts off (page 1 pic 128)

Unbolt metal brackets from toyota engine.

Get some half inch MDF (fibre board) to make pattens for fabricated mounts. First cut 2 square plates to bolt to block( different shape on both sides) I don't have a pic of this, but the pic's of my completed fabbed mount brackets will give you the idea(page3 pic's 72 and 74) make them as big as will fit flat against the block,and not interfere with anything,drill and bolt in place. Bigger size will give you room for options for the "outriggers"

That's enough for day 2 , beer is called for!

 

Day 3.

Set up car body on stands /ramps, get it as close to level as you can, about 18 inches off the floor to allow enough room for you to move around freely underneath.

Put 1J/2J on engine hoist, lower it into the engine bay, get it as far back as you can, use the hoist,jacks, stands, (a lot of fine moving around to get it back, centred,and level), Spirit levels, bobs , jack and block it to be where you want it to be , I found it easy to get the shifter positioned first , on a stand and then used the hoist and screw up stands to get the engine height right.(the hoist still in place to take the weight,a piece of 8x2 crossways under the pan,held up with two screw up stands,for fine height adjustments (page1 pic'# 048)

By abandoning the Dat mounts on the front frame, the frame is there basically to cross brace the body and carry the rack, if you need to sit the engine real low, the frame can be spaced down to give more clearance.

At this point make sure your blocks/chocks/jacks/stands are holding the engine in it's exact final resting place. You don't need movement, and you don't want it landing on your face.

With the Jag mounts and the plate on the rails, cut pieces of MDF to attach at right angles to the flat MDF plates that you bolted to block.(back to pic's- page3 pic's72 and 74) and bridge across the dummy mounts sitting on the rails, Keep the two sides about 100mm(4 inches apart, this gives a bit of space on either side of the Jag mount. These you will need to play around with, even if I still had my templates they are for a right hand drive,Also for a single turbo, TT will probably need different curves on the "outriggers" Brackets are not mirror images left and right. Should be much easier to do LHD, as I had to work aroung the steering shaft and turbo on the same side. fiddley, time consuming, but not difficult. See pic's of final shape in metal at - page 3 pic's 72, 74, 85, 86, 87.

when you are happy with the shape, cut in 4mm steel and weld up. I went into strength overkill here put in cross bracing, not going to break.If weight is a problem for you, go on a diet, get a skinny girlfriend.(Ive seen some of those chubby American chicks on TV, Get them in the surf, and pods of horny whales start beaching themselves.)

 

Day 4

Lift engine/gearbox out, fit the new metal brackets to block , and lower back into position, get it plumb and straight again. this is it! slide the plate on the rails to centre the Jag mounts under the mount brackets.mark.

Lift engine out again. weld plate to rail.

Drill hole through to take the bottom bolt on mount. You can do this two ways,just through the top of the rail as I did, or go right through the bottom of the rail as well, using the hole as a centre guide for a hole cutter so you can get at the nut from the bottom( I didn't have a metal hole saw handy, so I just cut a slot on either side.On refection I should have done the hole saw from the bottom, neater.) pic's page 3 pic's 53, 67,71.

Bolt Jag mounts onto rail.

 

Lot's of beer time.

 

Day 5

Lower the engine in again, this time you only have to centre it. It should be sitting on the mounts, if you are happy with positioning, mark spot and drill. then lower back onto mounts, bolt on Jag mount should pop up through the newly drilled hole, pic's page 2 pic's 94, 95, 98. even if you are a little out with the hole, just open out hole with a file.

Gearbox crossmember time.

With a screwup stand or jack, set the height of the box, depending on what rubber mount you want to use , I used the Toyota,cut a piece of 90mm x 4mm bar, about 150mm(6 inches) more each side than what you need to span the tunnel, I used a wood heater to heat the plate, put it in vice(noooo touchies!)and hit it into shape to fit the floor.Welded gussets on the ends to strengthen it up, one inch piece at 90 degrees running side to side on front edge(cant see in pic's didn't get a pic of front edge,Sorry..Pic's page2 100,101.

cut two pieces of plate 100mmx100mmx 4 mm to go on the inside of tunnel(cabin side) and then drilled and bolted through.

It's there! celebration time! Head for the refridgerator!

 

Day 6.

Measure the length of drive shaft required, take the yoke from the Toyota Auto/manual box , the Dat shaft plus measurements to a professional drive shaft guy, You cannot set this up yourself, the balance really does need to be done by an expert.( Local price here in OZ $ 280)

Wire.

If you can't do it yourself, get a wire expert to come and make it start. Be warned, there is a big difference between making it go, and making it purrrrr! I was lucky, got a genius first off.

I have no problems with engine heat using a standard 3 row 260Z radiator, bottom hose from cut fits perfectly, top was any old hose with length and a right angle'. two 12 inch thermo fans fit perfectly onto the back, hooked up to susquential switches, temperature where I live hits 40C in summer (100F), never had the gauge go past half way.

 

Day 7.

Intercooler, I only needed to cut one 4 inch hole in radiater support to get a hose through,450mm x300mm high x 75mm thick, sitting on a flat 60mm bar(it's actually a TR7 radiator support), couple of radiator brackets from a junkyard to anchor the top in place. (pic's page 1 pic#056)

 

Day 8

Fuel, I was lucky in that my car was a december 1976 build, It came with fuel return line fitted, leaving the original pump in place to act as a lift pump, installed a 1 litre surge tank, with a Bosche Motorsport (350HP) pump in line,only time I thought I had a surge problem, I was in fact totally out of fuel!

 

Thats 8 days of the 2 weeks, the rest of the time will be waiting around for the driveshaft guy to get around to doing your job, and finding out the wire guy you picked is full of sh1t.

These obstacles easily overcome with the rest of the beer!

Make it run,

Get it to a muffler shop,

There is no mystique about this engine swap,Don't be put off by the fact that it's a Toyota into a Datsun, They don't come any easier!

YOU HAVE LIFT OFF !!!

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Engine mount bracket info for 240zwannabe and hicomp4ag.

Without pulling engine can't do exact templates,but as pointed out in original post, will be minor differences LHD, RHD. also different shaped outriggers to the rubber mount.Depends also on steering shaft-standard/aftermarket power unit, and type/number/positioning of turbo's- a high mount would make things real easy.

This is as good as I can do.

Engine must be blocked in the EXACT position you intend it to sit.

Start with a flat plate 180mmx180x4mm,(7 1/4 inch square) to be mount face to block, bit bigger if it can fit, just so it will sit flat against the 4 bolt holes. set the bolt holes up now, make sure there is enough room for inserting and tightening bolts, Look up the pictures of how I did mine,small bits can be cut out of the sides to clear various "lumps" and pipes on block.

You do not need to worry about the center support/ strengthening pieces on the bracket at this point.Add in later once you have the outrigger templates cut.(if it makes it easier for you, cut them out of an old beer box with scissors- just so long as you can duplicate in 4mm minimum steel plate)

For the outriggers start with pieces 270mm( 10.1/2 inches )long, check the pictures to get an idea of shape, keep trimming until you are happy with what you have got, then do in steel,with the center strengthening added.

It is not hard, just takes a bit of time.

Cross section drawing of rail end of mount, and more pic's added to photo's, also desciptions updated,

Disregard references to pages the pic's are on in original post, flickr moves pic's along when more are added, and I'm too old to work out how to move them.

(there seems to be an unhealthy interest in the weight distribution pic:shock: I thought you guys were car freaks???)

Pic's on link below.

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Guest n3mi5y5

what about doing this swap in an s130? I have an 83 280zx

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Guest allight
Would it be possible to pass a 1JZ swap off for a 2JZ Supra one, for California engine swap inspections?

 

Ahhhh? Why? first hassle will be the large ID 1j 2j cast on engine above number. Im about to start this swap dont have engine yet. is there a inspection problem with the 2.5 compared to 3 litre?:confused:

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Ahhhh? Why? first hassle will be the large ID 1j 2j cast on engine above number. Im about to start this swap dont have engine yet. is there a inspection problem with the 2.5 compared to 3 litre?:confused:

If you could pass a 1JZ as a 2JZ, which was sold in the US in the Supra, it would be possible to swap into and get it smogged in California.

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Guest allight
sticky?

I second that, this is a post with so much information. I have been looking for months on forums to find real how to do it guides. i have read this and reread it so complete dont even have a qestion to ask.even says how things could be improved.most posts on builds just focus on how to spend money on what will probably never be needed

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Pete: It would, just paint the valve covers or something.

 

I will be doing a write up on my 1JZ swap into my '71 soon.

 

Thanks to Russ, I have a lot more information than before.

 

- Ian.

 

This is great, but I will be looking towards your write-up for things i am still unsure of.

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Which trans fits the best( shifter location) the supra or the chaser/sora trans?

The R154 from a JZX90/100/110 has a longer extension housing( than the Mk3 Supra that used a R154) if centered in the shifter hole in tunnel puts the motor a couple of inches clear of firewall, Soarers and Na Mk4 Supras I think use the w58, stick centered should bring the motor closer to firewall.

Check other threads for tunnel fit of TT 6 speed Supra box, only seen one out of a car, it apparently can fit, but looks BIG!

Looking at a 7m the other day ,can't see any reason that making up mounts similar to what I did for 1J2J would not work off the rails, can't be too difficult to fab a set of brackets to fit to block.much better, weight distribution wise than trying to utilise the Datsun mounts.

Anyone that intends to make a set of mounts is doing so at their own risk, the ones I made for mine were inspected and approved for weld strength /design and clearances, by a certifying engineer.In the state that I am in, The Motor Registry only licences about 30 to certify design work. Up to you to check safety /design etc with your relevant state authorities BEFORE you go driving!different rules, state to state, country to country. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

Post is to show you what worked for me,I'm not a shop, not interested in manufacturing, if you can see how easy it is , go for it, improve,but just make sure what you do is safe,and approved.

Plan B -No more Zeds for a while,I'm about to have a go at building a half scale focke Wulf 190 replica, engineering inspection fees are going to be a killer.but, I can blame the engineer if it falls out of the sky.(providing I bounce right.:D)

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I will do the swap in a 240z or a s13, i just don't know which yet....I really want to do a 240z because it's light and 300whp will get me high 11's low 12's in a 240z.....the s13 is light also at 2600lb and has a more solid body... Which ever comes cheapest(and most solid) is what i will go with.....Is there anything you don't like about the swap?

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....Is there anything you don't like about the swap?

for what I want, a fast road car, perfect,easy fit, great balance, and.....POWER!! you would have to ask people that race for opinions as to what bodyshell is best to dump the 1/2J in.

 

Mine was built to drive, can't see the point in "park and polish", never got intersted in racing(lost interest in F1 when they moved the motors from the front to the back-and drag racing WTF?? where's the corners gone? :weird:)

The only time I aspire to is lunchtime.

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Guest kilick1

I have a 260z non-turbo and I was wondering, would putting a twin turbo engine in a non turbo car effect the rear end of the car? If so what should I do?

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