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RUSSJZ-ZED

1JZ 2JZ installation instructions for dummies,2 weeks, drive it!

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Guest chvzding   
Guest chvzding

Having read this I am reconsidering my plans for an RB25DET swap on my 280zx.

 

Just to clarify, you mention that this is an S30 swap, surely it would be an identical process for a S130?

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RUSSJZ-ZED    10
Having read this I am reconsidering my plans for an RB25DET swap on my 280zx.

 

Just to clarify, you mention that this is an S30 swap, surely it would be an

identical process for a S130?

 

Why not.Not too up on ZX's, but should have easier clearance of steering shaft , from memory the S130 rack is on the back of the subframe.

More room in the engine bay as well??

just noticed you are in Oz,1J/2J half cuts can be picked up for under $2500 at the moment, much easier to install ,and both have more power standard than a RB25. (also, it really upsets the "you gotta keep it Datsun brigade"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Guest chvzding   
Guest chvzding
Why not.Not too up on ZX's, but should have easier clearance of steering shaft , from memory the S130 rack is on the back of the subframe.

More room in the engine bay as well??

just noticed you are in Oz,1J/2J half cuts can be picked up for under $2500 at the moment, much easier to install ,and both have more power standard than a RB25. (also, it really upsets the "you gotta keep it Datsun brigade"

 

Apparently yes there is more room in the engine bay.

 

I know where there is a 1JZ-GTE halfcut from a late model soarer with very low k's. I also happen to know the location of a manual box... Hmm. If I follow through with this I will document the whole process. I might need a new camera though... Evil plan coming together...

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RUSSJZ-ZED    10
If you are using a standard 1jz-gte (91-93) you have to get a 2jz water pump if you are running ele fans correct?

 

Not sure on earlier 1JZ, the Vvt was an easy remove clutch fan, hook up thermos, link below could be of help if you do need to swap.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35702&highlight=1jz+water+pump

 

anyone help?

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RUSSJZ-ZED    10

Photo's and descriptions of R154 install added to flickr photo bank, at the moment they are on page 5, but could get moved around depending on what else gets loaded.

link.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/russjz-zed/sets/72157601989530227/detail/

 

Still deciding if swap to manual was good move, auto had smooth power on, turbo kicked in early, no problem keeping it on boost,Quite civilised, Manual turned it into a beast.,running a 3.33 rear end at the moment, definately need a LSD (didnt with auto) also might fit a 3.08 rear end to take fill advantage of first gear,( with anything like a 3.7 or 4.08, I think it would just jump up and down on the same spot when it was floored) once moving pick up is phenomenal:icon54: but need to keep working at it to keep the boost on.

With the auto hardly ever reved past 4000RPM now I seem to be hitting 7000 all the time on the way to the supermarket, lightened flywheel definately helping get the rev's up fast.

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RUSSJZ-ZED    10

Cured problem with gear stick in 1st, 3rd, and 5th being too far away and too close to dash/heater controls, I did not want to have to put heat on this to bend it due to rubber insulated upper half of stick.

Solution,(this works with late model boxes,don't know about Mk3 Supra type)

I removed stick, rotated 180 degrees,re-installed, no problems, nothing in there that makes it a 1 way set-up. Angle now puts 1st near 90 degrees, 2nd at about 10 o'clock, -real nice position , good positions foe easy changes.

Pic's on about page 6 on link below.(there is also pic' of some bushes on the remote that are much easier to replace when the box is out of the car. I found out one bush had had collapsed, destroying ease of shift, had to replace in the car,can be done but much easier if you plan ahead.

New ones transform shifting.

If any of this information I've been posting is of use to you, feel free to say thanks for pointers, I don't embarress easy.I do get the sh1ts when ideas I've tried out that worked, get claimed as original ideas by others elsewhere. -a few of my great ideas didn't work ,(If you first dont succeed, remove all traces that you tried.:D)

If there are ways to improve,POST!,Also there is nothing worse than forums that do the "Look what I've done" posts with no information as to how things were actually done, SHARE!

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RUSSJZ-ZED    10
Posting here to help other like my self...:mrgreen:

 

Wiring

 

I take it, i will have to put a water temp sensor on my radiator to control when eletric fan come on correct?

 

I bought 2X12 inch thermo's of ebay, they came with thermo switches that are supposed to be fed down the top radiator hose, never had much luck with these things, found it easier to drill a hole the size of the sensor in the top tank, feed it in, the wire behind the sensor is usually thinner, get a piece of copper or brass about the size of a 1 cent piece, drill a hole in the centre the size of the sensor feed, hacksaw a cut from edge to centre hole, slip over the wire and silver solder to top tank, probably laws against defacing currency, but why not use a 1 cent piece? nice neat and round. Don't use more heat than you need to solder.

2 fans? the sensors with cheap fans usually have a narrow switching band, if you need a few degrees separation between the fans coming on, put the second fan sensor into the bottom tank.

 

Thanks shaggyz,as you have probably found out by now, this is a swap the village idiot can do, I did it!:icon6: anyone can.

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Gritz    10
I bought 2X12 inch thermo's of ebay, they came with thermo switches that are supposed to be fed down the top radiator hose, never had much luck with these things, found it easier to drill a hole the size of the sensor in the top tank, feed it in, the wire behind the sensor is usually thinner, get a piece of copper or brass about the size of a 1 cent piece, drill a hole in the centre the size of the sensor feed, hacksaw a cut from edge to centre hole, slip over the wire and silver solder to top tank, probably laws against defacing currency, but why not use a 1 cent piece? nice neat and round. Don't use more heat than you need to solder.

2 fans? the sensors with cheap fans usually have a narrow switching band, if you need a few degrees separation between the fans coming on, put the second fan sensor into the bottom tank.

 

Thanks shaggyz,as you have probably found out by now, this is a swap

the village idiot can do, I did it!:icon6: anyone can.

 

Cool thanks for the info..Im using one 4000 CFM ford Taurus fan with the stock radiator...Is your stock rad holding up?

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RUSSJZ-ZED    10

paint 013

 

Temperatures here set to hit 38C today thats close enough to 100F, second summer with only one 12 inch fan working,I live near the center of the city, 99% of driving is stop/start traffic light to traffic light,No over heating problems. must replace the dead relay in case the remaining one dies.

these engines do not run hot.

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Gritz    10
paint 013

 

Temperatures here set to hit 38C today thats close enough to 100F, second summer with only one 12 inch fan working,I live near the center of the city, 99% of driving is stop/start traffic light to traffic light,No over heating problems. must replace the dead relay in case the remaining one dies.

these engines do not run hot.

 

Thats good to know...I plan on running one 75 amp relay, 10 or 14 gauge wire and a summit fan temp adjustable switch..

 

Just reconfirm what I'm thinking, do you remember how your wiring genius went about the charging system..adapting the 1jz altenator...

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RUSSJZ-ZED    10

The original datsun shifter cover was never going to work, and as the heat coming through the hole was a bit much to take when the outside temps here are 25C-42C at this time of year, decided it was time to seal off the hole.

 

Pictures are on the link below around abou page 7 (labeled shifter,).

 

Simple to block it off effectively, all required is an old Z front brake backing plate,(amazing what you ca find in your own garage.) and a CV boot from whatever car came with a halfshaft size about the same as the Toyota stick. (I went through the scrap bin at a local driveshaft rebuilder , most FWD cars seem to have about the right size boots)

Cut the brake backing plate on about the chalk lines shown in pic'(I used the backing plate because it had about the right sized hole, and the edges of the hole are raised without sharp edges- the first cover I made,I just hole sawed a piece of aluminium, after about a week, sharp edges cut the boot.)

panel it on the tunnel to get the shape,does not need much.

push the CV boot through so the plate holds it on the bottom concertina piece, get a silicone gun, run around boot top and bottom sides, leave for 24 hours. silicone the four bolt holes at the same time.

cut a rubber gasket out of an old inner tube, fit over stick, bolt down.

The cover is made of 6mm perspex, made a patern, and cut out with table saw, not advisable, sort of like pushing a sheet of glass through a saw, -lots of splinters flying everywhere. If there is ever a next time I will take the patern to the perspex shop and get it laser cut.

The fold in the perspex I achieved by routing a chanel to weaken it on the line,and heating with a blowtorch then bending.

There was room for a couple of gauges, so I put in an oil temp gauge.

Wife made up leather boot.

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Gritz    10
does anyone know if this swap would be similar for the 7m? i can get one....FOR FREE!!!! the whole car is a in a junk yard I have been helping out at and part time racing for.

 

Do it!!! Most swaps are the same..mount it, wire it, tune it, prepare the car for it, kick butt with it!!!!:D

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Gritz    10
Im going to check it out next week. Its missing a title and is an old repo. Hopefullly the HG is in good shape.

 

Nope..bad move...If you are going to use the 7m..be sure to at least deck the head, use metal head gasket and arp head studs...then boost 20psi all day long!!!

 

unless, all that has been done already...

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RUSSJZ-ZED    10

Adios time, Zed free, gone, no more. Waved it goodbye the same day ZOOM magazine(#138) came out with a feature on it.Damn! another week would have got more for it. Great article, the previous owner of the car was so impressed that he emailed to express his disgust at the way I had "destroyed":icon6: a "good" Zed.

Might do it again to another one some day.:ass:

New project is annoying Porsche true believers.

2002 4.3 Vvti Levus 3UZ V8 into a 928S ,

I was going to use a 2JGTE, but they weigh in 200 pounds heavier than the NA V8, (same power figures though)

Undecided as to if it is going to be a Toysche or a Plexus.

Have fun "mutilating" Z's,:mrgreen:

Bye.

 

 

 

xblsif.jpg

 

71inm1.jpg

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