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Ford V8 Conversion Writeup

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Nice job on the conversion. I'm in the middle of putting in a Fuel Injected '89 5.0L GT motor into my 72.

I've done my mounts differently than yours and I have one question regarding your crossmember. How did you mount it to the frame rails? No where in the write up do you say how this attaches to the car. I've noticed in other peoples write ups and in pics of this type of mount that the means of att. is not evident. You must have put some thought into this as squeezing the box frame is just going to collapse it.

Thanks in advance for the info

Jeff

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Not to speak for Z8Driver, but in this forum I've seen that when bolting the crossmember to the frame rails, regardless of the origin of the crossmember, many drill over-sized holes and insert tubing through the frame rail. In this manner the bolt may be tightened without collapsing the frame rail.

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Jeff - Good question about mounting the motor cradle to the frame since you're right, the frame is thin material. That's an interesting approach mentioned by axman61 about using a spacer through the frame - I hadn't thought of that.

 

I ended up with three bolts on each side of the cradle, but only two are of value. One of them goes down through the frame near the spot where the compression rods mount to the frame. The frame is much stronger in this area - the metal is doubled up underneath so you can tighten the bolts without crushing the frame. In the front, the cradle bolts directly to the crossmember that carries the steering rack, and also had the original motor mounts for the Datsun motor. Between these bolts, it seems strong enough.

 

With regard to axman61's question about the color, it's a gray used in late model Mazda 3s. As I recall, it is called Mica.

 

Brian

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Brian

Thanks for the answer! I know it sounded like a dumb question....but you know:icon12:

I've actually used axemans technique a few years ago when I ripped the sway bar mounts out of my frame rails during an autocross.

My mounts are somewhat unorothodox I guess because I'm using the stock type headers from the Mustang GT and the ford motorsport oil filter adapter to turn the filter to the front. I fabricated my own mounts which bolt to the datsun crossmember. I removed the tower off the drivers side and put the mount there and fabricated a piece from heavy wall tubing to get me up to the where it bolts to the motor. The passenger side is simpler in that I just extended the mount forward and installed a new mount on the existing tower on the crossmember. Of course the mounts are reinforced in (hopefully) the right places and its pretty stout material I've used. Nothing is running yet, so we'll see how it works.

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this is one hell of a great write up!, I,m surprised I have not found this considering all the researching I do on this site. Anyways I currently have a SBC V8 260Z (i,m including some pics) but this is what I have been llooking for to put together a clean 280Z with a roller 5.0 HO carbed motor and a 5 speed. The reason I would like to go with a 280 instead of a 240 or 260 is cause the availability and price of the latter. anyways great write up. thanks

1000361rk1.jpg

By speed38374 at 2008-08-06

1000362zr0.jpg

By speed38374, shot with KODAK DX4530 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06

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I used Patriot H8427 headers. They have 1 5/8" tubes (oval near the head) going into a 2 1/2" collector. They are nicely made. It's a little disconcerting how the left one appears to be pointing into the motor, but that can be corrected with a little angle on the weld at the collector mating connection.

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Well started to put my front crossmember in and found out that my 75 z isnt the same, the cad drawings say the top of the angle should be 2 1/2" well it was too wide, after powder coating now i had to go and cut off 3/8" on each side the outside width of my z is 29 1/2" guys please measure the outside dimensions before you have to cut and then re powdercoat everything. And the measurements for the cad drawings are from bottom of angle that sits on the frame to the bottom of the support are 9.75" after measuring mine i had to change this too as i only have 8.5" from top of frame to the bottom of factory crossmember and i didnt want this one to hang below factory crossmember.

http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Drawings.pdf

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Yeah i just found out for myself tonight, put the engine for a test fit... no good news, wil have to remake the crossmember as it isnt deep enough, motor sits 3" too high in the front, i apoligize for making any accusations to anyone about it being wrong. will have to cut out the rear section of the regular crossmember between the rack mounts, motor wont go far enough back to drop below the crossmember. will have to make something to fit around the mounting points in front of the rack, plenty of 1/4" angle and flat iron laying around. headers i have rub the sides of the original frame so i will have to do something else there too and ..of course steering rod wont fit around the headers... will have to beat a few places in the trans tunnel too or just cut it out and patch it back together after wards....1 question though.. with the car sitting flat isnt the front of the motor supposed to be inclined about 3 to 5 degrees?? You know how it is once you hit 50+ i dont actually remember what it is supposed to be.

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Thank you, that is what i thought but wasnt sure. now to just get the crossmember notched out, braced and welded back up so i can get the front down far enough. Looks like my drive shaft wont be any shorter than the original one but i am definetly going to use the ford driveshaft and mill a adapter plate to bolt onto the diff end.

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Why go to the trouble of milling an adapter when there are one's available for purchase (reasonably priced).

 

Here is one of many threads that discuss driveshafts:

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=75715&highlight=neapco

 

The part number(s) for the adapter is given within. There are two flanges available for the R200 and two different adapters. Make sure you measure so that you get the correct one.

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wait i was reading about your post and the site and saw that you said your running about 325 real hp. and i was looking at your post on where you upgraded the fuel lines but i didnt see it. did you use the stock lines? how much hp is the stock lines rated for? i have read that you need bigger lines for carbed engine?

 

i plan on running mallory 110gph pump and was wondering if i could use the stock fuel lines for feed and return. i plan to run around 300-350 whp/wtq

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Does your carb setup have a return line? My 600cfm Holley Street Avenger doesn't have a return.

 

I've read of extensive hp numbers being supported by stock lines as long as you run a high pressure pump and a regulator closer to the carb.

 

Make sure you isolate the pump properly. I didn't and now my fuel pump is REALLY LOUD in the car.

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Does your carb setup have a return line? My 600cfm Holley Street Avenger doesn't have a return.

 

I've read of extensive hp numbers being supported by stock lines as long as you run a high pressure pump and a regulator closer to the carb.

 

Make sure you isolate the pump properly. I didn't and now my fuel pump is REALLY LOUD in the car.

 

ill be using my edelbrock 600 cfm. and no return but i plan to run a return style mallory regulator

 

and i figure that much. but since i will be running carb set up with a fuel pump that push 7psi max i am unsure if the stock lines can support it.

 

if it cant then i guess ill convert everything to 1/2 now. but if i can skip it now it then cool i would rather upgrade it later when i need to and spend the extra cash for the more needed item.

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I just used a procomp 7 psi, 180 GPH pump and their regulator with return line off of the regulator back to the take, my holley 650 only needs 5 psi to run right and the 3/8" lines are good for that much. Make sure you run a return line so the pump can run continously, making the pump cycle on and off with the internal preset pressure relief is bad for a fuel pump and it relies on continous fule flow to cool the pump., i know, burned up several pumps that way. all pump manufacturers recommend this.

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I just used a procomp 7 psi, 180 GPH pump and their regulator with return line off of the regulator back to the take, my holley 650 only needs 5 psi to run right and the 3/8" lines are good for that much. Make sure you run a return line so the pump can run continously, making the pump cycle on and off with the internal preset pressure relief is bad for a fuel pump and it relies on continous fule flow to cool the pump., i know, burned up several pumps that way. all pump manufacturers recommend this.

 

i thought the stock feed lines where 5/16?

 

what size is the return?smaller isnt it?

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My fuel lines on my 76 are 3/8" feed and return, the line that ran from the evap canister is a 5/16" line, that was what was in the car when i got it, only 1 of the 2 larger lines were hooked up to fuel system when i got it, it had already had the fuelinjection removed and 3 webers on the motor when i got it.

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