Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Ford V8 Conversion Writeup


  • Please log in to reply
65 replies to this topic

#41 slyhog22056

slyhog22056

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 72 posts
  • LocationGrand Prairie, TX 75050

Posted 08 January 2009 - 07:40 PM

Didnt need drive shaft angles need to know at what angle the motor tilts back when the car is at rest. I think it is 3* because that is the angle my intake is milled at but not certain....
William E. Cunningham (86)
William D. Cunningham (186)
William C. Cunningham (286)
High Velocity Motorsports

#42 74_5.0L_Z

74_5.0L_Z

    HybridZ Supporter

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 934 posts
  • LocationRockledge, FL

Posted 08 January 2009 - 11:17 PM

Three degrees will work fine. Mine is installed with the tail shaft angled 2.5 degrees down. Just make sure that you adjust the angle of the differential to match the angle of the engine or you will have vibration problems.

#43 slyhog22056

slyhog22056

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 72 posts
  • LocationGrand Prairie, TX 75050

Posted 09 January 2009 - 05:38 AM

Thank you, that is what i thought but wasnt sure. now to just get the crossmember notched out, braced and welded back up so i can get the front down far enough. Looks like my drive shaft wont be any shorter than the original one but i am definetly going to use the ford driveshaft and mill a adapter plate to bolt onto the diff end.
William E. Cunningham (86)
William D. Cunningham (186)
William C. Cunningham (286)
High Velocity Motorsports

#44 74_5.0L_Z

74_5.0L_Z

    HybridZ Supporter

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 934 posts
  • LocationRockledge, FL

Posted 09 January 2009 - 12:43 PM

Why go to the trouble of milling an adapter when there are one's available for purchase (reasonably priced).

Here is one of many threads that discuss driveshafts:

http://forums.hybrid...ighlight=neapco

The part number(s) for the adapter is given within. There are two flanges available for the R200 and two different adapters. Make sure you measure so that you get the correct one.

#45 7MGFORCE

7MGFORCE

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 187 posts

Posted 19 February 2009 - 09:30 AM

wait i was reading about your post and the site and saw that you said your running about 325 real hp. and i was looking at your post on where you upgraded the fuel lines but i didnt see it. did you use the stock lines? how much hp is the stock lines rated for? i have read that you need bigger lines for carbed engine?

i plan on running mallory 110gph pump and was wondering if i could use the stock fuel lines for feed and return. i plan to run around 300-350 whp/wtq

#46 JustChou

JustChou

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 40 posts

Posted 19 February 2009 - 10:53 AM

Does your carb setup have a return line? My 600cfm Holley Street Avenger doesn't have a return.

I've read of extensive hp numbers being supported by stock lines as long as you run a high pressure pump and a regulator closer to the carb.

Make sure you isolate the pump properly. I didn't and now my fuel pump is REALLY LOUD in the car.
- Justin

#47 7MGFORCE

7MGFORCE

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 187 posts

Posted 19 February 2009 - 02:02 PM

Does your carb setup have a return line? My 600cfm Holley Street Avenger doesn't have a return.

I've read of extensive hp numbers being supported by stock lines as long as you run a high pressure pump and a regulator closer to the carb.

Make sure you isolate the pump properly. I didn't and now my fuel pump is REALLY LOUD in the car.


ill be using my edelbrock 600 cfm. and no return but i plan to run a return style mallory regulator

and i figure that much. but since i will be running carb set up with a fuel pump that push 7psi max i am unsure if the stock lines can support it.

if it cant then i guess ill convert everything to 1/2 now. but if i can skip it now it then cool i would rather upgrade it later when i need to and spend the extra cash for the more needed item.

#48 slyhog22056

slyhog22056

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 72 posts
  • LocationGrand Prairie, TX 75050

Posted 20 February 2009 - 05:50 AM

I just used a procomp 7 psi, 180 GPH pump and their regulator with return line off of the regulator back to the take, my holley 650 only needs 5 psi to run right and the 3/8" lines are good for that much. Make sure you run a return line so the pump can run continously, making the pump cycle on and off with the internal preset pressure relief is bad for a fuel pump and it relies on continous fule flow to cool the pump., i know, burned up several pumps that way. all pump manufacturers recommend this.
William E. Cunningham (86)
William D. Cunningham (186)
William C. Cunningham (286)
High Velocity Motorsports

#49 7MGFORCE

7MGFORCE

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 187 posts

Posted 20 February 2009 - 07:04 AM

I just used a procomp 7 psi, 180 GPH pump and their regulator with return line off of the regulator back to the take, my holley 650 only needs 5 psi to run right and the 3/8" lines are good for that much. Make sure you run a return line so the pump can run continously, making the pump cycle on and off with the internal preset pressure relief is bad for a fuel pump and it relies on continous fule flow to cool the pump., i know, burned up several pumps that way. all pump manufacturers recommend this.


i thought the stock feed lines where 5/16?

what size is the return?smaller isnt it?

#50 slyhog22056

slyhog22056

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 72 posts
  • LocationGrand Prairie, TX 75050

Posted 21 February 2009 - 05:34 AM

My fuel lines on my 76 are 3/8" feed and return, the line that ran from the evap canister is a 5/16" line, that was what was in the car when i got it, only 1 of the 2 larger lines were hooked up to fuel system when i got it, it had already had the fuelinjection removed and 3 webers on the motor when i got it.
William E. Cunningham (86)
William D. Cunningham (186)
William C. Cunningham (286)
High Velocity Motorsports

#51 MJLamberson

MJLamberson

    Baaa...aaa..aa

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 888 posts

Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:22 AM

Makes me start to daydream about what I could do with that 351W I have that Im not doing anything with.... I dont need this right now! arrgh!!
-Michael Lamberson
myspace.com/mjlamberson
1976 280z, parted out
1977 280z, RIP, PARTING OUT! TURBO STUFF!http://forums.hybrid...ad.php?t=150948



#52 7MGFORCE

7MGFORCE

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 187 posts

Posted 21 February 2009 - 06:05 PM

My fuel lines on my 76 are 3/8" feed and return, the line that ran from the evap canister is a 5/16" line, that was what was in the car when i got it, only 1 of the 2 larger lines were hooked up to fuel system when i got it, it had already had the fuelinjection removed and 3 webers on the motor when i got it.


is that just on the 280z?

b/c from what ive read the 240z comes with 5/16 feed/return

but i have an early 260z 74. so i guess i have 5/16 lines.

would 5/16 even handle over 300whp?

#53 slyhog22056

slyhog22056

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 72 posts
  • LocationGrand Prairie, TX 75050

Posted 23 February 2009 - 08:02 PM

According to the calculator i looked up 25' of 3/8" steel tubing running 7 psi will flow 7 gal/minute, with a pressure drop of about .5 psi, 25" of 5/16" steel tubing running 7 psi will flow 4.8 gal/minute with a pressure drop of about .65 psi. If you have a motor that can run that kind of flow through it even with a return line i wanna see that intake system...lol
William E. Cunningham (86)
William D. Cunningham (186)
William C. Cunningham (286)
High Velocity Motorsports

#54 qwikrex

qwikrex

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 12 posts
  • LocationSanta Barbara, CA

Posted 13 April 2009 - 09:53 AM

Excellent writeup Z8driver, will no doubt be infinitely valueable to me as I start my project.

I did have a quick question. I've heard mention of the "universal" transdapt ford small block crossmember being used, and I was wondering why you didn't go that route. Forgive me if it's mentioned somewhere, I did some searching in this thread and on your site and didn't find mention of it.

Obviously your piece looks much stouter but I may not have the tools/resources available to me to build one like that. So I'm considering other options which might be a bit more pedestrian and easily available.

Again, excellent writeup, and beautiful car!

#55 Z8driver

Z8driver

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 11 posts
  • LocationArlington Washington

Posted 14 April 2009 - 09:12 AM

qwikrex - That's a good question about the Transdapt. I think one of these could be made to work, and it could save some fabrication. The trick would be to make the ends so that it could support the weight and torque of the motor when attached to the sheet metal "frame" of the Z-car. Based on the small pad size that they provide at the end of the tubes, it looks like the Transdapt was designed to be attached to real frame members. If you use one, I would recommend using a big chunk of angle at each side that goes over the Z's frame and bolts front and rear - then attach the Transdapt to the angle. I would think it would mount quite a ways below the top of the frame. Keep in mind that as you accelerate, the drivers side of the motor wants to lift up while the passenger side is pushing down. Good luck with your project - let me know how it goes.

#56 Shuggy88

Shuggy88

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 28 April 2009 - 01:32 PM

I have a very similar set up in my 5.0 Z. But my welds do not look near as clean haha.

#57 yellow73

yellow73

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 3 posts

Posted 20 December 2009 - 08:36 AM

:twisted::biggrin::wc:wow !

#58 Rick M

Rick M

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 17 February 2010 - 11:01 PM

I just got part way through your write up of your Ford small block installation in the 240Z and wanted to the compliment you on the quality of your text and photos. This is a swap I've contemplated for some time for the same reasons you noted and I hope to start one in the near future. Nicely done and I think this will be very helpful. I especially appreciate you sharing the lessons learned.

:icon46:

Rick M.
Goleta, CA

#59 tophatperformance

tophatperformance

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • LocationAthens,Ga.

Posted 20 February 2010 - 05:50 PM

This is the best write up I have ever seen. I signed up just to say that. I have done lots of RB swaps in Z cars and now I think I will try a 302 Turbo swap. Thanks alot for sharing all this!

#60 Twoeightnine

Twoeightnine

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 455 posts
  • LocationWASHINGTON

Posted 16 May 2011 - 09:34 AM

Thats a really fun read.
Like going through time but really compressed!! Ha!
Most of the "next time" things in your article have been suffered through by thoes before you.
But I'm so glad to see that not only did you have the fortitude and patients to get through it, but the machine shop and other resources to add options as well.
I used the famous Ansil (sorry if my spelling blows) cross member and stuffed precision gear LSD guts into the diff. Other wise I fell inline with your build.

Dont get me wrong, still not finished. Needs paint and interior. We have a two year old daughter and made a move out of state right before that. Blah, blah.

Beautiful Z mang. Very nice. Thanks for the info. That was fun.
:burnout: Twoeightnine




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users