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Subaru swap


nbesheer

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Guest TeamNissan
I can't get the link anymore but the new AVCS 2.5L STi engine is the way to go. Exhaust and a tune yields 330~350 awhp; especially on the later (more recent) ones. I do, however, have to agree that it's probably too wide. I own an S30 and an 06 STi.

 

 

Well since you happen to own both cars I can't help but say.... Break out that tape measure man, how far off is it? :-)

 

I wouldn't be interested in the swap but I agree it would be pretty cool to see.

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Well, a vw engine isn't too wide imo, and you can shove a subie engine into a vw. you do have to do a bit of trimming here and there because it is longer. it's also a tight fit but i don't remember if you have to widen the engine area in a vw.

 

It would be pretty interesting to see if there is room for it.

 

A type1 vw swap would be pretty sweet too. you can get 250+hp out of them very reliably.

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Even if this was feasible,you not only dont want the 2.5 for head gasket issues but that really isnt a very good deal.However if someone took the time to widen the engine bay frame rails a 2.0 or 2.2 subaru turbo would be pretty sweet.

 

actually it was all the subie motors that have headgasket issues. im a subaru tech and lemme tell ya, none of them are exempt lol

 

Subaru corporate to this day will still not admit there's an issue.....

 

another thing about the subie engine swaps, is the wiring is a NIGHTMARE! ive talked to people who have done N/A to Turbo swaps and the harnesses are nightmares to work with. well, unless you went and made a custom harness.....

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actually it was all the subie motors that have headgasket issues. im a subaru tech and lemme tell ya, none of them are exempt lol

 

Subaru corporate to this day will still not admit there's an issue.....

 

another thing about the subie engine swaps, is the wiring is a NIGHTMARE! ive talked to people who have done N/A to Turbo swaps and the harnesses are nightmares to work with. well, unless you went and made a custom harness.....

I've done standalones on Subies and I agree. You'd be better off just rewiring, but it isn't hideous if you've done one before.

I have spoken to Subaru Corporate ppl before. You are right; they are really arrogant.

Bah, all you need is head studs that aren't past peak yield by the time you finish installing them according to their specs. ARP studs fixes that. The only other issue is getting a little bit coarser finish on the head surface if it's boosted. I used to own a speed shop that specialized in EVO/STi, etc. My buddy still runs a shop (he is a Subie Master Tech as well) and he found the finish helped a lot to get Subaru's up to 40 psi of boost without popping every time. Before they were running into a brick wall at about 35.

 

The STi timing cover is 31" wide. The engine itself is basically 30" wide. The S30 chassis frame rails have 25" clearance.

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I've done standalones on Subies and I agree. You'd be better off just rewiring, but it isn't hideous if you've done one before.

I have spoken to Subaru Corporate ppl before. You are right; they are really arrogant.

Bah, all you need is head studs that aren't past peak yield by the time you finish installing them according to their specs. ARP studs fixes that. The only other issue is getting a little bit coarser finish on the head surface if it's boosted. I used to own a speed shop that specialized in EVO/STi, etc. My buddy still runs a shop (he is a Subie Master Tech as well) and he found the finish helped a lot to get Subaru's up to 40 psi of boost without popping every time. Before they were running into a brick wall at about 35.

 

The STi timing cover is 31" wide. The engine itself is basically 30" wide. The S30 chassis frame rails have 25" clearance.

 

^^dude knows his ♥♥♥♥!

 

i will say i didnt know you could fix it with head studs, i havent really played with subies aftermarketwise....but thanks for the info!!!

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actually it was all the subie motors that have headgasket issues. im a subaru tech and lemme tell ya, none of them are exempt lol

 

 

Not entirely true.All engines are possible candidates for HG failure,however not all engines are 80% likely to need them at or around the 60,000 mile mark every time.I love subaru,i am a mechanic and one of my best friends is a purely sube mechanic with 20 years under his belt.The problem has nothing to do with improper head studs or the wrong coolant,it is a matter of heating and cooling cycles - period.Someone who makes long commutes will get more time out of there Hg's than someone who drives 15 min's and then shuts down (or the normal joe).The dimensions of the block,cylinder bore ect ect are to blame and you wont fix it permenantly.Anyone who says they have taken care of the problem cant really say so until that engine has 60-70k on it after work is done.I realize in the performance world this mileage is nothing, just letting people know that there is an issue and it is epidemic with these motors.I know of many 2.2 and 2.2 turbos that have 2-300k with original Hg's and are going fine, and they are nearly as bomb proof as the old ea series motors.Yes there are freak 2.5s that do great but if i was going to do the swap it would be 2.2 all the way.Go ask some folks at USMB what they think of the HG issue.I can just imagine what happens when you boost a run of the mill ej25!!

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yea, 30 inches is roughly what I measured all the times I've measured the STI motor.

 

Cramming that into the 25" Z bay would be tough. You'd have to tube frame the front end and completely remove the stock rails and strut towers. Then you might also need to modify the suspention to make sure it clears the engine. It might not be THAT bad, I'm just thinking worst case scenario.

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yea, 30 inches is roughly what I measured all the times I've measured the STI motor.

 

Cramming that into the 25" Z bay would be tough. You'd have to tube frame the front end and completely remove the stock rails and strut towers. Then you might also need to modify the suspention to make sure it clears the engine. It might not be THAT bad, I'm just thinking worst case scenario.

 

The engine is completly infront of the front axle center line. The only suspension/engine clearance issue I could see would be when the tires are turned, and the front of the tire possible being very close to the engine.

the frame rail does not NEED to go around the sides of the engine, the frame rail could pass over the head, in fact this might be a better way to go, to allow access to the spark plugs and head removal, for the headgaskets you will be replacing. :lol:

If the inside of the frame rails are 25", and are about what 2.5" accross, that's 30" right there, the same width as the Subie engine according to the posts in this thread, so with the frame rail being modified to pass over the engine, or under if it works better for the intake and exhaust manifolds, then you should really have no tire to head clearance issues, in fact there should still be plenty of space to fabricate a small debris sheild to keep the engine protected from road debris.

With the length of the S30 engine bay, this would leave LOTS of space behind the front axle line for large turbos, the rad, since it probably won't be able to stay in teh stock location, and enything else that needs to be in the engine bay, LOTS of space for it. ;)

 

Hmmmmm....... If only the rules of the race I want to enter would allow front frame rail modification.

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the 25" might not be at the inside of the frame rails. Consider that.

 

When I measured the S130 engine bay, majority of the shock towers were less than 25" of clearence, and the top was about 28". The inside of the frame rails were closer to 20"

 

And you could mount the engine far enough back to no have issues with the suspention, but then you couldn't use the AWD. :D

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Yeah, I'm just going on what people have said in this thread for dimensions. I only saw my S30 for the first time on Saturday, and is still 500 miles away from where I am now. I'll have to wait until it's shipped to my house (another 2000 miles).

 

I thought the idea of using the Subie engine would be to use the AWD as well, seems pointless without. ;):lol:

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I thought the idea of using the Subie engine would be to use the AWD as well, seems pointless without.

 

Why? if you can get it in there not only do you have an engine plenty able to make power but your engine is FLAT and the center of gravity improvement would be huge (engine wise).

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Guest TeamNissan
Why? if you can get it in there not only do you have an engine plenty able to make power but your engine is FLAT and the center of gravity improvement would be huge (engine wise).

 

Ya I thought that was th point of it. You would have to mount that motor in front of the cross member to retain the stock awd set up(not to mention the other insane modes needed).

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Why? if you can get it in there not only do you have an engine plenty able to make power but your engine is FLAT and the center of gravity improvement would be huge (engine wise).

 

Maybe/Maybe not. A long time ago I measure the CG of a VW supervee (using the flat motor) and a formula ford. The Ford actually had a lower CG by a small amount. If the Subies have the crank about center of the motor and you can get a normal engine lower than this it may be able to have the same/better CG. The engine is pretty light from what I've heard and being short will help the car turn better.

 

For SCCA classes you may be able to use the exhaust clearance loophole to trim the frame rails for this to fit. Then use a cage to put the structure back in. Rear steer and forward mounted TCs would fix the suspension issues assuming you keep it strut based.

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