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First F20C swap?


Z2000

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I cant find one anywhere! Has anyone done a F20C swap into a s30 body??

 

Before you start knocking the swap, the idea is for road racing and daily driver (drivability/reliability)! Given, it would be fast enough in the 1/4 mile with its agressive power to weight ratio. All my auto sport friends do frequent mountain runs in their cars, a little dangerous but its a blast!

 

So heres the breakdown: My project should be underway in another month or so, fabricating a F20C into my 73z. when said and done the car should weigh 2,000 lbs with about 250 lbs off the front end alone. Mathematicaly, it should handle like a dream! I knew a guy that had a sr20det in his and it was pulling 1.2 something G's in the turns and the f20c should be even lighter then his setup.

 

Feedback please...

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Everytime someone brings up a 4banger swap, they mention less weight in the front, but everytime I've seen someone post their weight and distribution with an NA L6, its been 51/49. Dont let me discourage you, though, I really dont know squat about suspensions or whatnot.

 

Never heard of an F20C, what manufacturer and year range is it?

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Sounds cool but just lightening up the front end will not get you to 1.2 G's.

I know, it takes good rubber and extensive suspension work. Well, my point was that lighter is better when it comes to the road course as well as just about any racing for that matter.

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Guest TeamNissan

I think the real main downside is the inflated cost. Compared to all the 6 and 8 cylinder swaps out there the main driving point really is to be the 1st or one of few. With the right set up it WILL handle lovely but for the 1/4 the lack of tq is going to kill you imo.

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It's a nice thing to have something unique and be the first one to do a certain swap, but I'd stay away from the Honda engine. Even though it is an engineering marvel, it has almost no torque, as EMWYROHEN had already pointed out. A K20A stroked to 2,4 liters using the K24 crank could be a better solution (it's easy to get reliable 300HP with that combo), but then again, you'd have to fabricate a RWD tranny adapter. If I were you, I'd swap in the Nissan CA18DET engine - it's turbocharged from the factory (it has a T25 turbo), has a cast-iron block (stronger than both SR20 and F20C), it's 15kgs (35lbs?) lighter than the SR, and, as far as I know, nobody has done it before.

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I dont think you will lose as much weight as you think. I just installed a 4 cyl turbo ford into my Z. The engine was only like 40 lighter. My engine is pretty much all cast iron, but the L6 really isnt a very heavy engine.

 

Even with my engine all the way back and down as far as it can go, Im not gaining much in the way of weight, or distrabution. There are plenty of examples of V8 Z's that have a very nice weight ratio and the run them at the tracks with good results. And you really cant expect the same reliability from an underpowered engine, next to a rock stock chevy 350.

 

But on the other hand, I like to hear people trying something new. Thats one reason Im doing my swap...

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I guess the thought of $$ price hasnt really set me back yet because Im doing all the work myself. It would cost a fortune to take this project to a shop and then i would say its defenately not worth it.

 

Like I said, I'll make sure to save all the fab specs and list of what the parts cost in case anyone chooses to go this route.

 

Thanks for everyones 2 cents!

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I agree its cool to do original things but there is a reason that its not a popular swap,as everyone says its gutless.Those things arent really working until they hit like 8000 rpm,if you can stay in that range great,but im sure you will get sick of driving it quickly and start thinking about another swap you could have done from the start.

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It seems to me that the benefit of moving the engine rearwards cannot really be to improve the static weight distribution. As others have noted, reportedly the zed approaches 50/50 anyway, especially with driver/fuel?

 

However moving the engine backwards, in conjunction with moving the fuel tank forwards (like beside the driver in an approved, enclosed space), could maintain the nice static weight distribution, whilst lowering the Polar Moment of Inertia (the cars resistance to turning if you like).

 

Regardless of this, it seems to me that you can potentially get a usable amount of power from most engines that will fit in a zed bay (like: any?), so the choice is entirely up to you and can be made based on: personal preference, bore configuration and its contribution to chassis design, drivability requirements, etc etc ad infinitum.

 

Good luck,

 

Dave

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sorta makes me wonder why people are swapping 2JZ's with S13 rear ends to replace the F2Xc series engines.

 

Great power to weight ratio, great revability and tunability (AMS s2000 is the fastest N/A car on the tsukuba circuit @ 55 or so seconds), but something tells me that the S2000 was built with the standard engine specifications in mind, BEYOND the engine itself, considering the S13 R200 setup is an "upgrade". Sorta goes to show how much torque the F2Xc engines really do make.

 

If you like hp as a number, by all means... go with horsepower. But the idea of keeping the engine at 8000 rpm's to make any sort of lead against your opponents also includes increased wear and tear, and less margin for error should any other components decide to fail or accidentally go where they're not supposed to, like say... downshifting by accident? LOL. poor comparison, i know, but something to think about.

 

If you're keeping the engine within the 300 hp mark. I say go for it. But be sure to offset the poor weight ratio by including a fiberglass or CF hatch as well as some lightweight suspension pieces. perhaps even cut the standard fenders and sell them to someone who needs replacements, and put on some Fiberglass ones for your car to help too.

 

Just a thought in regards to weight.

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