Lazeum Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 I'm using electrolysis with 3 gallons tank max and a battery charger: 12v / 2.5A , so 12V in 10Ga is really OK. The more Amps, the faster the reaction (I wouldn't recommend plugging 110v or 220V though) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Original post deleted in entirety; total brain fart. So if increasing the amperage speeds this job up, what DOES increasing the voltage do?? Would it compensate for a larger mass of combined electrolyte/cathode/anode? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I don't know what it could change... Somebody would have to give a try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I'm game for givin it a shot, called a fiberglass shop that specializes in big tanks, I would be lookin at spendin a lot on these tanks by themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batou Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 for a full body tank why not use some 3/4 inch plywood, 2x4's, 4x4s, lots of silicone sealant, paint and maybe some undercoat just to seal everything up? Edit: hell just use fiberglass to seal up the interior of it. probably only cost maybe 200$ in supplies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift00 Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Wait...Powdercoating the underside of your car as an undercoat? No...powdercoating underneath your car meaning drivetrain... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckolander Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 for a full body tank why not use some 3/4 inch plywood, 2x4's, 4x4s, lots of silicone sealant, paint and maybe some undercoat just to seal everything up? Edit: hell just use fiberglass to seal up the interior of it. probably only cost maybe 200$ in supplies. Cause I'm thinkin of more of a permanent operation. I already know of a commercially zoned warehouse that I could rent cheap, and there are a lot of farmers up here who desperately need a rust solution. Could end up going into business for myself...... No more workin for someone else would be awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 for a full body tank why not use some 3/4 inch plywood, 2x4's, 4x4s, lots of silicone sealant, paint and maybe some undercoat just to seal everything up? Edit: hell just use fiberglass to seal up the interior of it. probably only cost maybe 200$ in supplies. For the record, I took a stab at what size open topped tank you could make in the ground by cutting up a 55 gallon drum. I was contemplating the idea of getting into cast-netting finger mullet and reselling them to a bait shop; go out, net bait, take them home to a holding tank, sell the store X dozen Y times per week... But, if you cut the ends off of a drum, then cut the drum into four "quarter pipe" sections, and assemble those in a square, then lay some plywood and fiberglass down in the corners and on the bottom, and set it all in the dirt, you wind up with a SURPRISINGLY high volume tank. If the barrel is say, three feet tall and has a radius of a foot, then you have a five foot square opening and a three foot square flat floor, and a tank about a foot deep. Obviously, you could sink it deeper, but at about a foot deep (25 sq ftx1ft=25cu. ft) you get ~190 gallons. I was suprised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Been a while. I was at the junkyard today farting around looking at electrical items on all different cars. Volvo's use Bosch fuel injection components. I found some flexible boots for injector plugs that bend more readily than the stock or aftermarket Nissan ones. Not sure of the year of the donor vehicle. There was also a three point "spring loaded" or "detachable" plug along the firewall that I replaced my TPS plug with and it works like a charm. There was a six point plug with the same "instant detach" connected to what I think was the air sensor and I was gonna grab it but I forgot if my cars AFM was six or seven point... No more flying metal clips!!! No more lost metal clips... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Haven't seen very many budget performance engine mods... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Been a long time. So I have my '76 280, with 8" wide centerline rims with neutral offset. This means that one inch sits (in my mind) too far inside for the stock driveline. On the drive wheel I am seeing premature wear on this one inch from what I assume is the torquing forces which would not be there with stock rims. So I buy a set of one inch wheel spacers that sets the wheels flush to the outside of my fender fiberglass flares and think okay this should work. Now when I go around corners I start hearing from the drivers side rear wheel a heinous scraping sound, the wheel is rubbing on the fender. I further check the struts and there is alot of play as they are just some generic ones I got off ebay. I have 240Z "strut top bumpers" and (I think) MSA lowering springs. ( I got them at a junk yard, they're blue). So the car is somewhat slammed from stock ride height. In the rear of my vehicle I also have a rollbar to strut tower modification which preloads the rear suspension. The scraping only happens on my side which I guess is my car telling me to lose weight. So, I don't really feel like shelling out for adjustable KONI's at this point because my struts are fine, just not fine enough... I changed the 12 year old urethane end link bushings and this helped a little. I saved the old ones...just because. What to do? I think that limiting the movement of the spring is the next deal but how? First I consider zip tieing metal bolts between the coils and then it hits me; zip tieing my used poly bushings in non sequential coils. The sprung space between the coils is 1/2 inch and the width of the bushings is approximately 1/2 inch. This is too easy. I just cone out the center of the bushing so that the zip tie has space to go around the coil of the spring. I put them in and take 'er for a spin and...it works better than expected. The ride is smoother in the straights and around the corners there is no more scrapey. Bushings can be added or subtracted as well if I want more or less play. Total cost; Four used bushings: free. Four zip ties: .08 cents. Have a blessed day!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_dirtking Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Hmmmm... so you are using your old bushings as mini spacers between the coils? Im trying to get a visual. ,Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 It's not a drastic effect, but it comes on gradually... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Cause I'm thinkin of more of a permanent operation. I already know of a commercially zoned warehouse that I could rent cheap, and there are a lot of farmers up here who desperately need a rust solution.Could end up going into business for myself...... No more workin for someone else would be awesome. Well just remember that this creates a lot of hydrogen gas, read flamable, so you'll need good ventilation and You can't use metallic containers since the metal will get eaten if theres any contact to either side of the power source. As for voltage vs current. Voltage is basically the speed of the power, Current (amps) is how much work the power can do. So higher Current means more volume of rust can be removed but more slowly, or higher voltage means smaller volume of rust, but faster removal. It's important that you fully understand the process and about the power relationship before trying to do this. You screw up and grab the wrong part, you can DIE. That being said, Higher current seems to work better in my exp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19762802+2 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Dipping the whole car in that stuff wouldn't be the greatest idea, because wouldn't the hydrogen brittle the medal? thats what i have heard atleast, so i don't think you really want to put the whole car in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 So my rear hatch weatherstrip on my 280z coupe is fried. Big surprise. I tried replacing it with some used door strip and some foam tape. It worked but looked like crap. I went to the junkyard and to my surprise found that the rear hatch weatherstrip from a 1st generation 300zx 2+2 (z31?) is an exact fit for my car. It pulls right off in one piece it is not glued. It is pretty snug so I had to reconfigure my solenoid. I think they charged me like 10.00 and this thing is like brand new. Nice... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 They work and look good and cost about $1.00 each. We'll see how long they last 'cause underhood heat + 30 year old plastic= shred city. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 So my rear hatch weatherstrip on my 280z coupe is fried. Big surprise. I tried replacing it with some used door strip and some foam tape. It worked but looked like crap. I went to the junkyard and to my surprise found that the rear hatch weatherstrip from a 1st generation 300zx 2+2 (z31?) is an exact fit for my car. It pulls right off in one piece it is not glued. It is pretty snug so I had to reconfigure my solenoid. I think they charged me like 10.00 and this thing is like brand new. Nice...[ATTACH]15841[/ATTACH] Nice, that's definitely good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhp123166 Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 280 zx weatherstripping works as well on s-30's. It just needs to be cut, 4-6" removed, and reglued to make it one piece again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madlarkin Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 (edited) Cause I'm thinkin of more of a permanent operation. I already know of a commercially zoned warehouse that I could rent cheap, and there are a lot of farmers up here who desperately need a rust solution.Could end up going into business for myself...... No more workin for someone else would be awesome. Not sure if you had looked into it but check out stock tanks for livestock and fiberglass holding tanks for aquafarming fish. IIRC rubbermaid stock tanks in the 150-300 gallon range are reasonably priced and available through most Tractor Supply stores. The larger aquafarming tanks get pricey but you can find them in massive(1000+ gallon) sizes. The rubbermaid tanks come in enough sizes and can make a great cleaning station if you have a ton of parts that need it. Also, if you do intend to build a plywood tank I strongly advise you do some digging and look at the folks building plywood aquariums. The biggest issue is that the higher you go the more pressure is generated on the sides of the tank and that number gets huge, fast. Water pressure in a tank like that is not something you want to take lightly unless you enjoy wet floors Edited October 7, 2009 by madlarkin Additional info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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