280ZX Turbo CV Boot Replacement (56k Beware!)

[highly 10]

280ZX Turbo CV Axle Boot Replacement Visual How-To

 

Here’s the method I used for dealing with those pesky inner boot cups. I hope the following visual how-to helps those that are unsure how to proceed. I hope to use this format and document as much as I can as I go through the various rebuild projects on my car.

 

 

First, the tools:

• A cutoff wheel
  
• Snap Ring pliers
  
• At least one small ball peen hammer
  
• A flat chisel (flat round)
  
• A cold chisel (sharp line)
  
• CV band crimp pliers (not shown)
  
• A vice is really helpful (not shown)

 

 

 

Here you see one completed axle and the one we will be working on today

 

 

 

 

The new boots we’ll be installing. You will want these on hand before you begin. Some of the boot kits include the O-rings and some do not. Recommended are the Beck-Arnley parts that do:

Inner # 103-2280

Outer # 103-2282

(Thanks to zcarnut’s post here)

 

 

[highly 10]

First we will have to grab our cutoff wheel and make a cut around the face of the raised band. Cutting on the stub end of the raised ridge could cause you to cut the rim of the tulip cover. This could prevent you from being able to seal the boot to the stub later and will damage the o-ring. Cutting on the axle side should be OK, but I chose to cut in the middle. Wherever you decide to cut, be cautious not to go deeply into the ring underneath. Minor scarring in this area should not be an issue.

 

 

 

 

Once you’ve made your cut be ready to catch the old grease. My cut was more of a dotted line and held things in place until I was ready.

 

 

 

 

Now wipe the old grease off the end of the axle and remove the c-clip. Discard the clip as the new boots should include them.

 

 

 

This pic indicates the white or yellow dot on the tripod. Note that the dot is on the circlip side and will help you locate the outside of the tripod later. You can usually slip the tripod right off the shaft.

 

 

[highly 10]

Here’s the easy way to get the tulip cover off without damage. Three good whacks gets it moving and the 2x4 prevents damage to the stub. Once the cover is removed you can gently tap the sealing ring (the part you left score marks on) off of the tulip.

 

 

 

Once you have it all apart you should be left with these. Ready for cleanup!

The other end of the axle is pretty self explanatory. Disassemble and clean everything.

 

 

 

Replacement is the reverse of removal. Be sure to lubricate the inner o-ring and the inside of the tulip cover. Be gentle as the cover bends easily. Once the cover is in place, replace the sealing ring. When the sealing ring is almost in place, replace the outer o-ring. I then give it one whack on a 2x4 against the sealing ring/tulip face. That seats the ring, o-ring, and tulip cover without bending anything. The sealing ring should be flush with the base of the tulip, not inset.

Insert the axle into the rubber boot, then install the tripod and circlip. The paint dot should be visible on the tripod. Grease liberally with the supplied grease. Do your best to pack the bearings in the tripod with grease.

 

 

 

 

Place the tulip on the tripod. Note that in this picture the metal step of the boot is just resting in the vise. Don’t clamp down on it as you will be turning it regularly in the next steps.

 

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With the tulip in place, peen the perimeter of the lip at the point that it meets the tulip. You want to begin folding the lip over. Take your time from here on out as you will be shrinking and stretching the metal with each consecutive blow of the hammer. At this point we just want to head it in the right direction; towards the stub. Once you have started the crease around the lip where it meets the tulip, grab your cold chisel.

 

 

 

Begin by creasing the lip down with the cold chisel using an alternating pattern; 12, 6, 3, then 9 on the clock. You want the chisel to create a creased line here as that line will be the point that the metal shrinks into in the last steps. Don’t beat the snot out of it, just bend it over.

When you have 4 creases, do 4 more. It should begin looking like a bottle cap.

 

 

 

Go around one more time using the same technique.

 

 

 

Now that you have what looks like a bottle cap with 16 creases, it’s time to grab your flat-nose round chisel. You will want to fold the raised areas over one at a time. As you do so you will be shrinking the metal into the creases from the cold chisel. Try to follow the lip over with the chisel to keep the metal from stretching more than it has to.

 

[highly 10]

Here’s what I mean by following the lip over. This keeps it seated tightly against the ring instead of buckling further.

 

 

 

Here you see half of the flats done. Looking good! Taking every other one over prevents you from making an oval instead of the nice round, tight fold that you want.

 

 

 

There you go! See, that wasn’t that difficult. It takes a little while, but the results are worth it, I think. Assembly of the other end is straightforward. Be sure to put the boot on first, then the mounting flange. Grease the flange and pack the tripod bearings, then replace the tripod and circlip. The mounting flange will not fit over the tripod if you install the tripod first.

 

 

 

Two axles ready to go back onto the car! Note one appears much longer than the other; reinstallation of the base cap and spring forces both outer joints to expand making them appear closer in length. I have not replaced those parts in this picture as I am making 6 to 4 bolt adapters a’la those in the downloads section.

 

[junglist 11]

I was just about to do this to my CV boots, thank you very much for the walkthrough. its really thorough, i'll let you know how it works out for me.

[blueovalz 51]

Good write-up. The forming of the metal band is great and obviously from the photos, appears to hold it tightly and evenly. That part was always the most challenging when it came to replacing the boots.

[blairjj 1]

Very nice post! Wish this was handy when I did mine.

 

I'd like to add that YMMV with MSA if you opt to use them instead of the Beck Arnley. My boot kits did NOT come with the large O-Rings.

 

Just my $0.02

 

Jay

[mark 33]

This would be a nice sticky.

[jeromio 30]

How much grease should be used to pack the bearings? Packed full, or allow for some space? Any recommendations on a type of grease?

[1 tuff z 36]

nicely done tutorial! and yet another reason why hbz is part of my daily reading:icon6:

[jgkurz 12]

Thanks for taking the time to provide this info.

[JSM 17]

The Beck-Arnley 280ZX turbo CV axle boot kits come with new O-rings:

 

[inner] Beck-Arnley # 103-2280

 

[Outer] Beck-Arnley # 103-2282

 

Any idea on where these can be ordered from?

 

I'm also assuming the Oring is only for the Inner boot?

[mark 33]

Any idea on where these can be ordered from?

 

I'm also assuming the Oring is only for the Inner boot?

 

 

www.autozone.com

 

I got my last set there.

[JSM 17]

www.autozone.com

 

I got my last set there.

 

Mark, you got both Inner and outers? Did the Inners come w/ the O-ring. I just called my Local Autozone and they said the brand was Fanco.

[mark 33]

The last set I got was the beck arnley brand. I see they no longer carry them.

 

Try www.advanceauto.com

 

I know they stock the beck arnely ones

[JSM 17]

Rats, almost double the price Advance was $38.XX and Autozone was 18.99.

[sq_creations 110]

I did some research and the 18.00 and 30.00 kits are different:

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?D=beck+arnley&Ntt=beck+arnley&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=1684+4294964941+11381+4294966250+11931&Nty=1&V=1684+4294964941+11381&Vh=1982%20Nissan%20280ZX

[JSM 17]

Very nice! Thanks for doing that.

[philipl 10]

Im Redoing My 280zxt Cvs And Wondered How Critical Bearing Placement Is Inside Tulip As Far As Putting It Back Indexed The Same As It Came Apart.........also my shafts dont have circlips the tripod had to just be pulled off with gear puller........

[niceguy678us 1]

What now???

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft003.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft002.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft001.jpg

There are three little places where the shaft material has been mashed down to hold the bearing piece on the shaft. This is how it is fixed on both ends of the CV shaft assembly. There is no nice little circle clip to undo these with. I was thinking about gently grinding the mashed portions, but then you won't be able to lock the pieces back in place upon re-assembly.

 

Any thoughts?

[JMortensen 241]

Have a snap ring groove machined on the shaft after grinding to get it apart, or get some other CV shafts. Not sure what your PM meant or if it was intended for me, but that's what I'd do, and I'd lean towards the latter.

[junglist 11]

What now???

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft003.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft002.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z79/niceguy678us/cvshaft001.jpg

There are three little places where the shaft material has been mashed down to hold the bearing piece on the shaft. This is how it is fixed on both ends of the CV shaft assembly. There is no nice little circle clip to undo these with. I was thinking about gently grinding the mashed portions, but then you won't be able to lock the pieces back in place upon re-assembly.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Mine were this way when I rebuilt them. I forced the bearing off of the shaft with a manually operated hydraulic press, then when putting them back on, my friend carefully put an even groove around the entire shaft and we then put a properly sized circle clip onto it to re-hold the bearing in place.

[philipl 10]

Mine also had no circlip i believe i used a gearpuller to remove and pressed back on with a little of some sort of loctite retaining compound to make sure it would not move..sorry this is somewhat vauge its been a little while back.....

[LineC 10]

Just to give you guys a heads up. Rockauto has the Beck Arnely boots on wholesaler clearance. Look them up under a 1984 300zx base model. Boots are around $5 for inner and $5 for outer. Just ordered some sets of these and they have the o-ring and grease with them.

 

As of 5 March they only had 16 remaining....

 

Great deal considering they are usually $27 + shipping for a set.