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280ZX Turbo CV Boot Replacement (56k Beware!)


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#21 niceguy678us

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 12:41 PM

What now???
http://i192.photobuc.../cvshaft003.jpg
http://i192.photobuc.../cvshaft002.jpg
http://i192.photobuc.../cvshaft001.jpg
There are three little places where the shaft material has been mashed down to hold the bearing piece on the shaft. This is how it is fixed on both ends of the CV shaft assembly. There is no nice little circle clip to undo these with. I was thinking about gently grinding the mashed portions, but then you won't be able to lock the pieces back in place upon re-assembly.

Any thoughts?

#22 JMortensen

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 01:11 PM

Have a snap ring groove machined on the shaft after grinding to get it apart, or get some other CV shafts. Not sure what your PM meant or if it was intended for me, but that's what I'd do, and I'd lean towards the latter.

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#23 junglist

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 01:15 PM

What now???
http://i192.photobuc.../cvshaft003.jpg
http://i192.photobuc.../cvshaft002.jpg
http://i192.photobuc.../cvshaft001.jpg
There are three little places where the shaft material has been mashed down to hold the bearing piece on the shaft. This is how it is fixed on both ends of the CV shaft assembly. There is no nice little circle clip to undo these with. I was thinking about gently grinding the mashed portions, but then you won't be able to lock the pieces back in place upon re-assembly.

Any thoughts?


Mine were this way when I rebuilt them. I forced the bearing off of the shaft with a manually operated hydraulic press, then when putting them back on, my friend carefully put an even groove around the entire shaft and we then put a properly sized circle clip onto it to re-hold the bearing in place.
'12 370Z - daily driver
'72 240Z - under construction
'03 350Z - RIP
'66 1600 - U20 w/Mikuni's

#24 philipl

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 01:20 PM

Mine also had no circlip i believe i used a gearpuller to remove and pressed back on with a little of some sort of loctite retaining compound to make sure it would not move..sorry this is somewhat vauge its been a little while back.....

#25 LineC

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 01:06 AM

Just to give you guys a heads up. Rockauto has the Beck Arnely boots on wholesaler clearance. Look them up under a 1984 300zx base model. Boots are around $5 for inner and $5 for outer. Just ordered some sets of these and they have the o-ring and grease with them.

As of 5 March they only had 16 remaining....

Great deal considering they are usually $27 + shipping for a set.
1980 280ZX Coupe
Turbo Megasquirt(inwk)
Borg 5-Speed
R200 CV

#26 junglist

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Posted 05 March 2010 - 11:43 AM

Just to give you guys a heads up. Rockauto has the Beck Arnely boots on wholesaler clearance. Look them up under a 1984 300zx base model. Boots are around $5 for inner and $5 for outer. Just ordered some sets of these and they have the o-ring and grease with them.

As of 5 March they only had 16 remaining....

Great deal considering they are usually $27 + shipping for a set.



I saw this a few months ago and bought 2 sets!
'12 370Z - daily driver
'72 240Z - under construction
'03 350Z - RIP
'66 1600 - U20 w/Mikuni's

#27 jeffer949

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 10:02 AM

Does any body know if it matters how you phase the 2 tripod joints. I rebuilt a set of mine and im having a bad vibration. I also added clutches to my clsd at the same time. The vibration is so bad on the passanger side that it worked the bolts out on my axle luckily i was only going around a corner at a crawl when it finally let go. Well any help would be great thanks
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]1974 260ZT known as Stella- the temperamental bitch

#28 ibsys2562

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 08:18 PM

I was just about to do this to my CV boots, thank you very much for the walkthrough. its really thorough, i'll let you know how it works out for me.

Good write-up. The forming of the metal band is great and obviously from the photos, appears to hold it tightly and evenly. That part was always the most challenging when it came to replacing the boots.

#29 FricFrac

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Posted 02 July 2011 - 07:17 PM

Is there a way to fix this sticky since the pictures are no longer working?

1969 Datsun 510 2dr Z22ET, 1972 Datsun 510 2dr L28, 1972 Datsun 240Z, 1981 Datsun 280ZX, 1981 Datsun 280ZXT 3.1l stroker, 1983 Datsun 280ZX, 1983 Datsun 280ZXT, 1993 300ZX Convertible, 2009 Nissan 370Z


#30 RB26powered74zcar

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Posted 02 July 2011 - 09:07 PM

Is there a way to fix this sticky since the pictures are no longer working?


Not without the images. Looks like the photobucket album was deleted. Maybe try emailing / PM'ing the member... ??



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RB26dettZ pics

 

th_April_2012006.jpg ®


#31 nix240z

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 11:47 AM

Since the pics are gone, I am posting pics of the way I did my boots.

 

pipe cutter #3 from harbor tool $20.. go slow and dont let the pipe cutter walk on you. You might  get a small grove on the axle side from the cutter but this will be ok.

Attached File  zcv1.jpg   71.64KB   7 downloads

 

Boot band cut in half.

Attached File  zcv2.jpg   73.42KB   7 downloads

 

NOTE: I used a small Dremel cutting tool to mark the exact location of the parts as they came off the shaft, so i would know the location as they go back on.

 

My cv's did not have a c-clip, the end was just pressed on. I used a 6" 3 jaw gear puller to remove the end

Attached File  zcv3.jpg   86.54KB   8 downloads

 

 

install  the new boots and reinstall the parts the same way as they came off. I used a 28mm socket to tap the end back on. On the shaft there is three places that the shaft was mashed down to hold the end in place. I just used a small chisel and mashed them back further after end was installed.

Attached File  zcv4.jpg   78.51KB   6 downloads

 

Pack boots with grease and put the Boot end back on.

Attached File  zcv5.jpg   71.28KB   6 downloads

 

At this point I installed a 4 1/2" worm clamp around the metal boot. This helps protect the metal as you start hammering the lip over and also keeps the band from wanting to bow out.

Attached File  zcv6.jpg   71.03KB   7 downloads

 

I also put electrical tape around the boot to also protect the metal while tapping the lip over.

Attached File  zcv7.jpg   84.48KB   4 downloads

 

At this point the lip is almost all the way around after tapping it. Small light taps will get the job done.

Attached File  zcv8.jpg   79.12KB   6 downloads

 

At this point I used some aluminum stock I had to tap the lip the rest of the way down. I did so tapping and moving along the ridge. You could use a socket and get the same result.

Attached File  zcv9.jpg   67.84KB   5 downloads

 

 

completed boots...

Attached File  zcv10.jpg   64.29KB   4 downloads


Edited by nix240z, 23 June 2013 - 12:29 PM.

www.240zrubberparts.com

 

 


#32 davek

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Posted 07 December 2013 - 04:53 PM

good job nix 240Z

Looking at the usual auto parts stores. I see all clamp on boots.  They are pretty vauge about inner /outer boots. They seems to offer one that is twice the price. I assume the inner but the show a clamp included.

Where did you get your boots. And how did you remove the inner boots. Careful with a cutoff wheel??



#33 davek

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 04:07 PM

never mind

got'em at partsgeek -- $72 for both axles.

The inner is short as shown on one of these build threads but doen't look like a big deal. No O ring included.



#34 jeromio

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Posted 09 August 2015 - 08:40 AM

I think this article answers the phasing question:

http://thinkfastengi...ripod-clocking/

 

But I have a question about the "end-cap". My boots came with a replacement for this cap that fits over the input shaft. But I'm hesitant to try to remove the old one under the "if it ain't broke" principle and also bc it is not obvious how to remove the old one or how to re-install the new one. Anyone have insight?

zcar_cv.png



#35 jeromio

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 08:18 PM

Ok. Answered my own question. This is NOT a new end cap. Rather, the boot came apart (before I got it) and this is the part that keeps the boot in place. I tried putting it back together with no luck. Have to return it.



#36 jeffer949

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 11:07 AM

Normally I think its rather ridiculous when someone answers a question from a post that is many years old.  Not this time.  I actually just started working on getting my car back on the road this weekend and this is one thing i was wanting to get resolved as i still had a slight vibration. I clocked the left one at 60deg and it helped. Now i need to do the other one.  Thank you for finally providing a definitive answer. 

 

 

I think this article answers the phasing question:

http://thinkfastengi...ripod-clocking/

 

 


[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]1974 260ZT known as Stella- the temperamental bitch




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