R230 Install....Tech info for those interested...
Posted 08 May 2001 - 11:08 PM
The R230 is from the Q45 ro the tt300Z. I'm think there are some some
differences in the cases but they are pretty similar. I used and R-200
mustache bar. The original holes were welded up and new ones drilles
for the new bolt pattern on the R230 cover. You will need one of those
aluminum braces Dave sells to use this cover. It is a very nice piece
and Dave will take care of you. He seems to be an honest guy trying to
make a nice part. The new holes were drilled about a quarter inch
higher than the original holes to allow room for the out put flanges to
clear the rear control arms.
To mount the front of the diff, I removed the safty strap and the
brackets it mounted to. A mount was welded up from scrap I had laying
around that bolts in the holes that the safty strap bracket bolted to. This
bracket runs under the front of the R230 and uses the stock mounting
holes in the R230. I used some half inch (diameter not length) bolts to
bolt the front of the R230 to my bracket. This basically repalces the
safty strap and the stock Z differential mount.
For a drive shaft, I used the Q45 shaft and had it shortend and the front converted to mate with GM stuff. This shaft has a much larger diameter than the stock Z shaft or the new Fbody drive shaft I had.
Now for the fun part. The CV's from the Q45 and tt300z are the same part. The shafts are the same only the Q's are longer. I used two outer CV's on the shortened shaft and an adaptor plate to mount the CV bolt pattern to the flange on the stub axel. The adaptor plates are a doughnut with two bolt patterns, one for the cv and one for the stub axel
flange. I had the shafts shortened and resplined by moser engineering. www.moserengineering.com I think.
The costs are not cheap to do this. Diff is at least 400, shafts are around 100 each used, need four of these. Need to have the adaptors made, mine about 200. Shafts shortened and resplined were less than 100
for the pair I think. R200 mustache bar, cheap, new bushing, cheap.
Lots of time!
Some other details, the height of the fabricated mount, the part that
goes under the front of the R230 is about the same level as the bolt holes. The drive shaft angle can be adjusted by shimming between the front mount and the diff. images/smiles/icon_razz.gif
Posted 08 May 2001 - 11:23 PM
BTW I got the whole thing, shafts, diff, hubs, and brakes for 200$ look arround Q45's arn't real popular and I have seen at least 10 and all still had the rear in them... You just have to deal and be patient...
Posted 08 May 2001 - 12:19 PM
Posted 08 May 2001 - 03:13 PM
Thanks for the info; we definately need that "special someone" to document this w/pictures in a step/by step scenario.
(Yea,Still an Inliner)
Posted 08 May 2001 - 06:56 PM
Yes I used the inner CV joints. It was about 2am when I was writing this. When I get my rear control arms from Mike Kelly I'll be glad to take some pics of the rear when it is apart and as it goes back together. Mark
Posted 08 May 2001 - 08:00 PM
How thick of a plate did you use for the adapters and how much did you have the shafts shortened??? Has the shaft not being retained laterally caused any problems... You explained how you did this a while back but it didn't make sence till I got it home and started looking at it... The CV's are huge !!!!!
I pulled the hubs and all the brakes while I was at it (got them for free) The hubs just bolt in and they are a really beefy double bearing design...
Thinking out loud....
Anyone cut and welded on the stock Datsun upright ???? If I do it properly I could weld in a machined flat plat and bolt the hub to it. This would solve alot of the backspacing problems and all but eliminate the stub axel problem...
BTW I have a friend who was just over and he loved the Q45 rear suspension. He comented that he thought it could be easilly adapted to any rear wheel drive car and was taking measurements to see if it would fit in his Chevelle... It all goes in with 4 subframe mounts and then the struts which could be converted to coil overs in a large car...more food for thought...
Posted 08 May 2001 - 08:19 PM
Posted 08 May 2001 - 08:34 PM
I am still going to do it Mark's way at first just to make it easy... Two concentric circles on steel plate wih some holes I can do that...
BTW how much does it cost to have axels shortened ???
Posted 09 May 2001 - 01:09 PM
Posted 09 May 2001 - 01:36 PM
Posted 09 May 2001 - 03:52 PM
I like your Idea about using welding the Q stuff to the Z stugg. Let me know if it works. The shafts were Less than 100 to have shortened and resplined. I'll measure length when I do rear control arms and post some pics also. Yes I have had problems with the hsaft floating on both sides. I'm currently ahving a piece mackined to fix this. I'll post some pics on this also. The adaptor plates are about 3/8 in I believe. Mark
Posted 09 May 2001 - 05:20 PM
The Q45's have a 3.54 gear, The main reason for the r230 is I have had no luck finding a r200 lsd or vsd.. that wasn't expensive. I also love the shear size of the r230. I tend to want to build things that won't break, ever. If the factory will put it behind a 300+hp turbo car and warrenty it, it will live forever in what we do. As for the R200 after talking to Myron about what happens when the shafts and or the carrier brakes, I will spend the extra time to make this work. BTW r230's are alot more plentiful than vsd or lsd r200's. That is why everyone is trying to make this swap work. Later Ray
Posted 10 May 2001 - 04:35 AM
im making complete new uprights-or hub carriers or rear spindles-the part that the strut is welded too and the stub axles goes through right now.
I am real excited to complete this as I feel the stock rear end in high horsepower apps is the weak link in our cars
Posted 10 May 2001 - 06:25 AM
Oh well, back to work...
Posted 10 May 2001 - 12:46 PM
Here is a pic: http://www.eng.fsu.e...line/shaft2.jpg
AMC eagle shaft
280zx Turbo outer
direct boltup on drivers side and had to machine a .5" spacer on the passenger side as the shaft was just slightly too short.
Here is a pic of the spacer when it was 1" thick. Ended up being too thich and compressing the shaft allowing the tripod to have some play. http://www.eng.fsu.e...erpics/pscv.jpg
Posted 10 May 2001 - 02:57 PM
yes you can upgrade the half shafts to cv shafts and buy an adapter or make one at the wheel side but by the time you spend all this money youre money ahead with the r230 setup and you dont have to worry about those stub axles.
Jim biondo spent big bucks retrofitting a corvette stub axle onto his car due to breakage issues.
The only down fall to a r230 situp would be the increased horsepower it takes to turn the bigger ring and pinion and larger halfshafts.
Take a look at the physical size of the r230 situp and compare it to other stout rearends-its bulletproof.
more spline on the cv outboard shaft than the 9 inch ford axles
bigger R&P then a ford 9 inch
PEACE OF MIND!!!!!
Posted 10 May 2001 - 03:22 PM
How close are you to using the outer stock Q cv. Please post some pics when it is done or a how to. This would be a great conversion if the outer cv could be used instead of the stub axel. Mark
Posted 10 May 2001 - 04:19 PM
Posted 11 May 2001 - 06:56 AM
However, this whole Harry home-owner thing is really eating into my project reserection...
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