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quick and dirty method for crank pulley removal.


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OK, so I need to remove the crank pulley but the damn bolt won't come free. I've got a 27mm socket and breaker bar, and we tried lodging something in the timing gear to keep it from moving, but it still won't budge. Any ideas? The engine is stripped down on a stand so I can't try using the starter to crank it or anything like that. WTF do I do? We're trying to tear down this motor quickly, as bad of an idea as that may be...

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You could cut it with a Dremel. That's semi-quick and very dirty and you'll probably have to get a new something after that.

 

I just took mine off last night by sticking a little 2"x2" block of wood up in the crank where the counterweights are swinging around. My wife turned the breaker bar connected to the bolt with a 1 1/16" socket to pinch the board in there, then I got over there and gave it a little turn and it came free.

 

One thing to know here is, to my surprise, that bolt only seemed to be on with about 50 ft/lbs of torque - expected it to be around 100 ft/lbs

 

 

If you can, try getting two blocks in there to more evenly distribute the load - one block toward the front and another toward the back. There is a possibility you could damage your crank, but I and a friend of mine have both successfully done this without damage to the crank.

 

Good luck.

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remove a spark plug.. maybe two if youre REALLY worried, and stuff some soft rope down into one of the cylinders when that piston is NOT at top dead center. Insert enough rope that when you start turning the crank, the rope will prevent the piston from reaching TDC. Then, OOOMPH. Presto. Good, clean, soft rope can't hurt a thing in the combustion chamber.

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I suppose it could if you put an insane amount of rope into the cylinder, but honestly... a few inches is probably enough. if you ARE concerned about bending a valve, then just rotate the crank until the piston is near TDC on the compression stroke, and stuff some rope in when the piston is near the top. If 3 inches is enough, then its enough.. if it isnt, then it sure won't bend a valve. Then, just back off a little, push a few more inches of rope in... etc.

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  • 2 months later...

I'd go with rope in ONE cylinder...

Putting it in TWO is asking for a bent valve.

 

Granted while there may be two cylinders at TDC at any given time, one is 'both valves closed' and the other....well...

 

Let's just stick to sticking something in ONE cylinder to lock the engine.

 

Or use an impact wrench! Even the Cygnus Impact works well enough! LOL

 

****************************************************************************************

 

Oh, there is another alternative involving the starter, but I'd suggest steering clear of that method...it goes the wrong way!

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Hammer on end of wrench = impact wrench, in my book.

 

For many years I did this before I had an inpact. Really you need two guys on a tough one. I was actually suprised how many did not realize that it is the same principle.

 

Get a pipe on a breaker lay into it hard and have you bud give it a few wacks.

Only draw back is you have to watch for that socket walking off.

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I had a time doing this on an LD28....

I stripped everything off the motor down to the shortblock with the pan off(the world's nastiest black mess). I then crammed a wooden hammer handle in behind the #1 connecting rod and proceded to snap the hammer in two. Then I got a 2" diameter pine dowel and crammed it in there. With a cheater & breaker bar I was able to release the bolt. It still destroyed the dowel...

Be sure to use a soft dowel as not to marr any internal parts.

 

I've pulled an L24 apart in a matter of about 60 minutes to get the rods in a JY(motor still in car) but that LD28 took 3 days to pull apart on an engine stand!!!!

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For many years I did this before I had an inpact. Really you need two guys on a tough one. I was actually suprised how many did not realize that it is the same principle.

 

Get a pipe on a breaker lay into it hard and have you bud give it a few wacks.

Only draw back is you have to watch for that socket walking off.

 

Strangely enough I didn't think to hit it with a hammer, I just figured we could use our body weight to break it free. Thankfully, my impact gun zipped it right off. I love air tools :)

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Ever take an impact gun apart??

 

There is an air motor which is a central drum with slots in it for vanes. The vanes slide out thru centrifugal inertia when the air is passed over the circumference of the drum, and this turns a "hammer cage." The motor is solidly linked to the hammer cage, usually through a splined connection, and there are one or two asymmetrical "hammers" that are pinned to the outer circumference of the hammer cage in such a manner as to allow them to swivel. The anvil that they strike on forms the deepest part of the steel bar that forms the square driveshaft that you slip the socket onto.

 

When you have the mechanism in your hand (there are surprisingly diverse differences in types, just like gas internal combustion engines, but they all essentially match this description) it is rather easy to rotate one side or the other (cage/anvil) in either direction without ever catching the hammer against the anvil. In other words, there IS no solid connection inside the gun.. Just a hammer or two being constantly swung around that anvil at high speeds and thwacking an offset face on the base of the driveshaft.

 

If you want to picture the shape of the cross section of the anvil, picture a pencil with half of the wood removed, but the lead intact. The hammers beat on the flat face of the wood that remains.

 

 

 

 

In other words, using an impact gun IS just beating on it with a hammer. :)

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