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Most reliable Nissan 4 cyl for swap?


txbeaux

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  • 2 months later...

i say KA24 or L20b

 

KA because my girlfriends bro trashed his hard body and the engine still ran well, the transmission and everything else was another story (missing teeth, yeesh)

 

L20b for familiarties sake, your used to inline 6 z engines? just chop 2 cylinders off

i was acually just about to post a thread askin about an L20b

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Guest Widebodys30

KA.

 

We are using the 240SX Twin Cam KA.

TOUGH, EASY to find Japanese parts.

AND plentiful, cheap hot rod goodies.

 

Putting one in a 510 right now for a buddy.

Looks like it belongs there.

 

Swap's been done a million times,

so the info is all out there for you to read.

 

Try it. You'll like it.

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  • 7 months later...
have you ridden in a ka-t with a larger turbo (that suits the bigger displacement, not a tiny t28)? they rev to 7k rpms and with a good tune and a cam swap it revs higher than a sr. and safely, it has better valve train.

 

Yes I have, but your right. BTW stock SR's rev over 7k(91 Sentra 7200redline)

http://www.se-r.net/multimedia/pictures/national_convention_99/turbo4dr.jpg

RIP

 

I have a Van... Nissan Serena with a SR and Auto, RWD with VLSD stock from factory. it redlines at 7.

 

I've ripped off dickheads att he lights who wanted to drag the guy in the big ol van with mummys civic.

 

stock sr20dets from japan redline is set at 7500rpm.

 

we are reving our 510whp sr20det to 7800rpm with stock hydraulic lifters and no issues whatsoever :)

 

Any car can be set to rev higher then normal my stock KA when i had it only rev'd to 6400 or something like that i had my ecu tweeked and had the redline reset at 9400 car was run NA like that and i usually got about 6 months off the engines.

 

I doged the engines out though so i never expected them to last long and they all had stock internals and most of their life running close to 9k rarely every had it pinging off the rev limiter but 9k was deffinatly better then the stock cut off. i know of a few people on florida drift one in particular 8-12lbs of boost on stock bottom end that the rev limit is set for 10.2 k some engines that you get are just freaks of nature and last forever then again sometimes you get a lemon.

 

Sorry to bring up an old post but that post about ka's not being built ok for high rpm kinda pushed my button when i ran my car daily and hard at high rpms. if i didn't dog it out i could say that engine would have out lived me.

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KAs aren't engines that rev.

Congrats for revving yours to 9k, and having it last 6 months. I'm sure you were making a lot of power up there.

 

My stock fuel cut on my FWD SR20DET is 7700rpm and the motor will probably outlast the car.

 

Not much power just a wider rpm range to have a bit more to work with when drifting 6400 is kind of short unless you are making 250-350 hp then its ok not to rev high but when your working with a stock engine probably putting out like 150 at the wheels the extra 3k helps

 

id have to say if i would have actually upgraded the bottom end and just replaced the bearings the engines would probably have lasted longer usually the rod bearings always spun the mains always survived.

 

Swaping to clevite 77's is the optimal choice but i just never did it. then again i was picking up engines for 100-250 tops the bearings themselves go for 75-90

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guys, how high you rev doesn't mean squat. reving higher than you need to doesn't give you anymore power without proper tuning. if you've seen most dyno's, horse power drops after a certain rpm. reving higher will show that the hp goes further down.

 

the goal is to keep the power speaded out in the rpm range.

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guys, how high you rev doesn't mean squat. reving higher than you need to doesn't give you anymore power without proper tuning. if you've seen most dyno's, horse power drops after a certain rpm. reving higher will show that the hp goes further down.

 

the goal is to keep the power speaded out in the rpm range.

 

Very VERY true :iagree:Completely.

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