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Project VQ is Underway!


EMWHYR0HEN

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I scored a VQ35DER from my buddies wrecked 2006 350Z with only 18K miles. Very unfourtunate for him. I felt bad for him so I bought his engine and trans to help him out...:D

 

On the way back to my place I weighed the engine (complete w/o AC compressor) 6-speed transmission, wiring harness and electronics and it came in at 580 LBS total.

 

After stripping the engine and trans down I noticed there are tons of places to loose weight like misc. metal brackets, power steering pump, metal dampers, and a 45 LB clutch and flywheel.... yes 45 LBS! apparently the Tilton clutch and flywheel set is the way to go with these engines.. 14 LBS..

 

I first plan on getting the engine dropped in with a crossmember style engine mount and then tackling the wiring to run the stock ecu.

I definately have to run a fuel return so i'm going to mod the fuel rails just as Austin has. As far as exhaust goes I still don't know yet but, I sure don't want it to sound very civil like your ordinary G35 or 350Z.

 

I'm excited as i'm hoping to loose around 100 LBS and gain 100 HP from my previous setup. Also the tightness in gear ratios of the 6-speed is going to be a big plus.

 

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Heck yea, That looks like a nice find!

 

Thanks for posting the weight too I was very curious about that, my car definitely lifted up when I put the VQ in. It's Good to see another person doing this swap, im really excited to get mine on the road i think its going to be an awesome engine for the s30 and lots of poteintial to boot.

 

As far as exhaust I just posted some pictures of mine, I think its going to be far from civil :). These motors have a incredible exhaust note too, I'm just hoping it wont be too raspy with no cats and a straight through muffler.

 

Anyway, Good luck with the swap!

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The VQ is definitely a bad ass powerplant. Do you plan on using the pedal assembly from the 350Z or adapting the sensor? If you can get it running on the factory ECU, I can get you a good deal on a UTEC for your car. If you don't know what that is check out on the website. Turboxs.com

 

Brandon

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Thanks for the comments and links.

 

Prox, The RB was great when it was my daily. Super reliable, simple, great gas milage, and scooted the Z pretty quickly.

After modding the chassis and brakes the car just needs more balls.

 

Birdman, wouldn't it make more sence to just go with Autronic and skip the stock electronics than to spend $1K on piggyback system?

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It's all personal preference. If you could get it running on the factory stuff without too much of a hassle you wouldn't have to worry about tuning low load sites such as idle and when you're cruising. Having the factory ECU controlling fuel trims and timing advance can be nice. There is a reason a lot of the Subaru and Evo guys use open source ECU reflash software. Lots of control yet factory like drivability.

 

Brandon

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It's all personal preference. If you could get it running on the factory stuff without too much of a hassle you wouldn't have to worry about tuning low load sites such as idle and when you're cruising. Having the factory ECU controlling fuel trims and timing advance can be nice. There is a reason a lot of the Subaru and Evo guys use open source ECU reflash software. Lots of control yet factory like drivability.

 

Brandon

 

Thanks for the info.

 

If you could get a deal on a standalone system I could possibly be interested.

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I've been running my VQ swapped 510 with an AEM EMS so I can do a Speed Density tune & not have to mess around with drive-by-wire. I do see the argument for piggybacks, but there's nothing wrong with standalones, especially if it makes your life easier.

 

The only standalones for this kind of swap that I know of are AEM & Haltech. Haltech's Platinum ECU was released a month after I bought the EMS otherwise I would've bought it & would suggest Haltech to anyone considering this kind of swap. Injected Performance is the main dealer for Haltech use in 350z's etc. & they will take care of you, they answered my questions regarding the system promptly (when I was considering selling the EMS & grabbing a Haltech).

 

Edit: One thing to look into is how well these ECU's can control the additional exhaust cam phasing. I'm still not sure if the AEM will, though I have purchased a VQ35DER/Rev-Up to build up when I have more $. Injected Performance will have the answer regarding Haltech. If none of them can do it, then piggyback may be the best option.

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Autronic and MoTec are also very good aftermarket ECU's, MoTec is about as good as they get, took less then an hour to tune the MoTec M600 on my VG30DET engine. But service is at least as important as the ECU because its a pretty skilled business where errors can cost, a lot.

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As far as exhaust I just posted some pictures of mine, I think its going to be far from civil :). These motors have a incredible exhaust note too, I'm just hoping it wont be too raspy with no cats and a straight through muffler.

 

Anyway, Good luck with the swap!

 

The exhaust note of the VQ is awesome. I always know when I hear one crank up. As for the rasp, unfortunately the exhaust you described will probably have it. I am running stock cats and a 3" Fujitsubo Exhaust on my 350Z and it can be raspy at times. Its something most 350Z owners fight like help and usually compromise to get rid of.

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It's all personal preference. If you could get it running on the factory stuff without too much of a hassle you wouldn't have to worry about tuning low load sites such as idle and when you're cruising. Having the factory ECU controlling fuel trims and timing advance can be nice. There is a reason a lot of the Subaru and Evo guys use open source ECU reflash software. Lots of control yet factory like drivability.

 

Brandon

 

There is a really good reflash setup for the 350Z VQ from Uprev tuning in Austin,Texas. It is nice for the fact that you get the software and load it on your laptop. Then you drive the car and datalog it. Now you email the datalog to Uprev and they will do a tune for you from it and email it back. Then you can just load it yourself. If you change something just do it over and send it to them again for a new tune. Its only $700 for the tune which is pretty good considering what a standalone would cost.

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As of right now I want to just get everything running on all the stock electronics. I dont think it will be that bad since I have everything in front of me.

 

Anyway, I removed all the manifolds from the engine and sized it up inside the engine bay. Once again, I think I got lucky because i'm not going to have to modiy anything on the chassis to get it to fit where I want it.

 

My goal is to try and get the engine entirly behind the crossmember without cutting it. After looking at the position of the engine it's going to be a little tricky making a crossmember engine mount that tucks under the engine nicely so single mounts on each side might be my best option.

 

This brings up another build decision. Solid mounts or rubber insulators...?

If I go solid I'd also make the trans mounts solid as well.

Besides a harsh ride what are the ill effects?

 

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I personaly dont like solid mounts. I didnt notice a harsh ride so much as vibration sounds. I hated the sounds that seemsed to carry through my car at various RPMs

 

Mind you this wasnt with a VQ but Im guessing it will act in a similar fashion. Solid is solid.

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I think that jerry was attempting to remind you that more than just the sound will be transferring through the solid mounts. The vibrations, and all of their harmonics and reverberations, will travel throughout your entire car; just don't forget that. I personally don't like the idea of solid mounts on anything except a strictly purpose-built racecar that would never see the tarmac of a public road (if you can afford a "test course" other than the stretch of 13th street near the shop. Woops!)

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I was under the impression that the car's CAN BUS system required the original ECU to stay in the car to control the chassis stuff. IIRC the AEM box keeps the OE ECU for that. Obviously you don't have the chassis stuff but I dunno how the stock ECU is gonna act with all that stuff missing. If it were me (and it may be one day), I'd look long and hard at the variable valve timing. If it can be controlled (or uprated cams eliminate it, as in some cars) I'd go standalone with a standard cable throttle. The electronic throttle is NOT something I consider a benefit. I'm also not sure how the ECU is gonna like the fuel pressure situation since it controls the situation in closed loop. I used an uprated return style system but I still had to do a thing or two to the pump assembly to get it to "be happy" with it, IIRC.

 

I'd use some poly to make it easier on you when you drive it for long periods of time.

 

I've owned a GReddy TT'd 350Z. It put out 349 hp at 5 psi. I don't recall how much torque it had other than that it was more than the hp. I just used a GReddy eManage that everyone said wouldn't work. There were no standalones known to work at the time. I don't think there is much to eliminate the raspiness aside from some funky exhaust stuff. Turbos help. :-)

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