Jump to content
HybridZ
Guest We Bad

Chevy 90 degree V6

Recommended Posts

Guest We Bad

Yes this engine is destined for my 280Z. It is based on a GM race block and has the capacity to go to 320 cubic inches, (4.000 in. stroke), although I'm going to stop at 300. (4.125 bore by 3.75 stroke.)

5 liters is BIG for a 6 cylinder and this block weighs only 74 lbs including the main caps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Luigi

I'm pretty dure you know about these points.

1. when rpm or hp goes up on the V6 you're gonna land on a common pin crank. these take some special parts to work camshaft and ignition.

2. when you use a common pin crankshaft in one of these, IT WILL DO IT'S BEST TO SHAKE ITSELF AND THE CAR APART.

other than that, I think they're very neat engines. If you don't bug them (about anything but the part like tuning) Hillborn probably has a couple of the bases left around. HVH cly. heads has ported alot of those heads he (Joe) had some blank canted valve stuff hanging around.

good luck

the pwr?lbs. will be untouchable if built right and weight dist. will be also.

Luigi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Neato! I put one in my Z a couple of years ago and I love it. Is that an aluminum block, and what kind of heads are you using?

Im having some 2003 Vortec heads ported out to use on mine and they should flow just as good as the Brodix heads, only about 2 grand cheaper. Lunati is selling their Voodo cams for these motors and they are the best that I could find right now.

 

What type of aspiration do you plan on using?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Jesh

hey buddy, did ya ever start the V6 swap? I just pulled my L26 outta my 260Z and we're getting ready to put in a Vortec 4.3 V6 i found at my buddy's place. Might go with his Toyota W58 tranny with his bellhousing adapter to make the tranny match up. Hopefully my mounts'll be ready within a week or so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Headers on a V8 (or V6) Z car are problematic. Steering linkage issues on one side, starter heat soak issues on the other side and narrow spacing of frame rails requiring small diameter primary pipes with sharp, tight bends immediately out of the port. Once down in between the frame rails you are left with a tight transmission tunnel compromising either exhaust system size (diameter), ground clearance or both.

I went with fender-well headers ( 1 7/8 " dia. primaries) that go outside of the frame rails and a side pipe exhaust system.  The downside is that the battery must be relocated and the master cylinder moved to the driver's side of the firewall. 

post-30774-0-88494600-1360382360_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 4.3 L Chevy V6 shares many features of the Gen I small block V8.  The oil filter mounting pad is on the left side and the starter is on the right side of the block.  

 

The dry sump oil pan I'm using has a full length kick-out on the right side.  That is, the right side of the pan is extended 2" outboard of the pan rail mounting holes in the block.  This, combined with the scavenge oil line fittings being on the right side, prohibits the usual right hand side mounting of the starter.

 

Since my external oil pump allows me to relocate the oil filter, I fabricated an adapter to mount the starter on the left side of the block. Being only six cylinders, and not high compression ( 10:1 CR, supercharged), I can get away with the lightest starter Tilton makes.

post-30774-0-70342400-1361421335_thumb.jpg

post-30774-0-30326700-1361421353_thumb.jpg

post-30774-0-02110500-1361421378_thumb.jpg

post-30774-0-05347200-1361421395_thumb.jpg

post-30774-0-52989600-1361421424_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Motor mounts:
The V6 block shares the same three-bolt mounting pad design as the 1st generation SBC V8, but the mounting pads are 4.4" closer to the rear of the motor.  With the engine in the setback position (as close to the firewall as practical) the stock crossmember engine mount towers are too far forward to be used.  Hence, they were removed.  In my case it was a moot point:  the towers interfered with the belt drive for the oil pump.
post-30774-0-05204900-1363059024_thumb.jpg
Motor mounts were made from 1/4" thick plate, 2" square tubing (1/8" wall) and 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" angle (1/4" wall), TIG welded together. They fit between the engine and the top of a polyurethane vibration damper which bolts to the top of the Datsun frame rail.  The polyurethane damper, one per side, is an Energy Suspension Transmission Mount, part #3-1108.   It features an interlocking design that prevents the mount from separating even if the polyurethane fails. 
post-30774-0-34642100-1363059080_thumb.jpgpost-30774-0-75956400-1363059091_thumb.jpg
The right side mount is offset to the rear to clear the oil pump.

post-30774-0-98252300-1363059127_thumb.jpgpost-30774-0-19813900-1363059145_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those headers posted on the previous page look really cool going through the fenders like that!!!  Was there any issue with the exhaust  being too close to the tires ??

Edited by _X_

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×