tonycharger72 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Hey guys, Thought I would share some pics of my 1UZ V8 install into my 1974 260z 2 Seater - I grabbed an engine and gearbox from a 1991 Toyota Soarer with the Rear Sump, I am running the auto gearbox and Subaru Power Steering Rack, Enjoy!!! 1UZ Installed, Another Pic of the 1UZ in place, Shot underneath the car, Old Soarer Auto Gearbox Crossmember, The New Gearbox Crossmember, Engine Mounts I purchased a few years ago, Another shot of the 1UZ installed! I will get some more pics of the new crossmember and steering rack mountings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackwidow Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Nice install so far. I love that engine had seen a couple apart in front of me and they are built like a mac truck. Not only that they last like a diesel. I had a sc400 not to long ago, great car. Should be a nice reliable ride with some get up and go when you are done. nice job:icon14: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaspendlove Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 If only some reliable, affordable, manual transmissions bolted up... Swap looks great though! The insane price of these engines sure is tempting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted October 17, 2008 Author Share Posted October 17, 2008 A local Australian company called "Castlemaine-Rod-Shop", http://www.rodshop.com.au/, that can supply you with a complete manual conversion (without the gearbox) using the W-Series Supra Boxes or the R154 for about $1700AUD - a W58 will cost about $500AUD and a R154 $1500-$1700AUD, so add that together with the engine cost and you don't get a lot of change out of $4-5k AUD - but still that isnt exactly breaking the bank, not compared with even purchasing a new 350 chev crate engine!!! These folk will whip you up a harness as well for about $900AUD or so, http://www.venomcobras.com/services.html#10 Just send them yours and tell him what gearbox your running and he will mail it back, labelled and ready to go!!! There is another guy called Sideshow who frequents Toymods.org for the wiring but don't have his contact information - he is supposed to be excellent as well!!! I will try and get some decent pics of the Crossmember and transmission tunnel and post them!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Looking good. keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUSSJZ-ZED Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 For anyone in Sydney Australia, Sideshow, alias Jim the wiring genius Works out of factory unit next to SSS Automotive Gilba Sreet Giraween. his number ,0415904947 Talk to him if you are anywhere else in Oz, he will travel. He hooked up my electronic speedo to the R154 yesterday,I had gone crazy looking at wire for a week, he did it in half an hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc280 Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Hey looking good so far. I've got a quick question for you as i'm in the process of doing the same thing except with a 280zx and just wondered if you've run into any of the same problems that I have. Does your engine sit in the centre of the engine bay? Just that at the moment I'm going to have to mount mine slightly off centre to clear the brake booster and steering box... Although from the look of things in the pics it looks as though you've made your own cross member so maybe this wasn't an issue for you? I've also got issues with the clutch master cylinder although if your sticking with the auto I guess you won't have to worry about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 Hey Mate, Is the diff in the 280zx off-centred and sloping? or is it centred in the tunnel and parrellel to the ground? How far back are you mounting your 1UZ? Are you mounting the engine directly to the rails? I grabbed an laser plum-bob (or laser tape line) from a mate, then I made a bracket so I could bolt it to the diff - once turned on the laser shot out a beam that was towards the passenger side of the car - from memory if you measure where the beam intersects with the radiator support panel the beam was off-centre about 40mm! So if you take a straight-line down your driveline you want the engine off-centre - NOT CENTERED!!! So if you look at the front of my engine its actually off-centre towards the passenger side by 40mm or so, Also, it appeared that the diff angle points up a touch, so the engine also slopes back a touch towards the back of the car! I don't know if this is the case with a 280zx - I have one sitting next to my current Zed but its stuffed full of RB30 so I don't know if the diff is centred or or not!!! I placed my engine about 110mm from the firewall - this was mainly because of limitations I had with how I installed the Subaru Rack - I stood it up (like the original way it is mounted in a Subaru) and sloped it back a touch, this allowed me greater clearance for my new and improved chassis rails and easy clearance for the engine mounts I wanted to make - but did limit how far I could go back with the engine as the alternator gets in the way if you bring the engine further back than 110mm off the fire-wall!!! However, there was other concerns with moving the engine further back - lots of fun trying to get to the starter motor if needed, the heater and A/C lines would have been awfully interesting - but the clutch would probably be impossible as well (however, don't know that one for sure as I have removed my clutch MS) and the shifter linkage lines right up with the original gearstick location of the Zed! I will grab some more pics of my Crossmember and engine bay shots - hopefully have something in the next couple of days, show you guys the mounts for the engine and how the rack was positioned and more details of where the motor is in the engine bay! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc280 Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Hey mate, I've started a thread for my build over in the 'other v8z' called 'my 1uz 280zx swap' section although I haven't updated it in a while as I've had to move to Perth for a couple of months for work and the car is back in Sydney. Although I do have some photos of the mounts that I've used and how it currently sits that I will have to upload. it sounds like the 280zx is still very similar to the 260 then, because the diff does sit slightly off to one side in the 280zx as well (towards the drivers side for us aussie guys). I reinforced the chassis rails and then built my mounts off them. Again I'll have to post up some pics to show what I mean. I can't remember exactly how far off the firewall mine is sitting although it sounds similar to you. Mine is also off centred to the passenger side a little and from memory it is about 50mm towards the passenger side, although I have to admit I only lined mine up by eye... Currently the gearbox (I'm using a w58 box and conversion kit from dellow) doesn't line up that well with the shifter hole. I've cut a little from the front of the hole (near the dash) to get it to fit. The main problem I found is I can't put it any further back as the valve cover will hit on the brake booster.... I'm also using the rear most shifter position available for the W series boxes so I may have to extend it somehow. The big problem I'm facing at the moment is I can't fit the clutch master cylinder in as it hits the head (and as mentioned before I can't really bring the engine forward). So at the moment I either need to find a really short clutch master cylinder that will work or I'm going to have to look at an under dash set-up. I'm looking farward to seeing how you go with yours. Are you going to be making custom headers? Don't know if your aware or not but you can get a header kit from a place in melbourne that has pre-cut flanges and a all the bends that you'll need (can't remember its name right now but let me know if you want it and I'll find out). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 "Currently the gearbox (I'm using a w58 box and conversion kit from dellow) doesn't line up that well with the shifter hole. I've cut a little from the front of the hole (near the dash) to get it to fit. The main problem I found is I can't put it any further back as the valve cover will hit on the brake booster.... I'm also using the rear most shifter position available for the W series boxes so I may have to extend it somehow." Is it the W58 from the 2JZGE from an N/A Supra? - that has an extension housing, which sits the shifter position way-way-way back further than any other that I have seen on a W series - as shown below, see the difference between stock and extended shifter locations - that might solve your issues? Dont know about the clutch - I will have a good look at mine and see how much clearance I have - because I do love the idea of slapping a 6-speed Getrag in there eventually (just because a 6-speed would be cool and if your lucky can grab them for the same price as a T-56), Are you going to be making custom headers? Maybe - but there really isnt alot of clearance in there !!! I removed the CATS and then cut the flange's off the back of the exhaust manifolds as they were hitting the Radius Rod mounts - if I stick with the stock manifolds the exhaust is piss-easy, there is enough clearance to run them straight down at their current angle underneath the car - issue is running dual exhaust past the fuel tank filler - you thinking of running dual exhausts? on Lextreme you can purchase the flanges for about $120/pair (I think) which seems pretty reasonable for a set of exhaust flanges - but as there is such little clearance would probably try and mock it up with my own bender at home first, then if I can get it to fit go and purchase some mandrels locally! How much did Dellow charge you? what was in the kit? spoke to CRS and they said they do a kit for about $1700 or so, but it's supposed to be quite a heavy flywheel - Dellow said they were going to fax me something but I never recieved it !!! Get some more pics mate would love to see more of your conversion!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 A local Australian company called "Castlemaine-Rod-Shop", http://www.rodshop.com.au/, that can supply you with a complete manual conversion (without the gearbox) using the W-Series Supra Boxes or the R154 for about $1700AUD - a W58 will cost about $500AUD and a R154 $1500-$1700AUD, so add that together with the engine cost and you don't get a lot of change out of $4-5k AUD - but still that isnt exactly breaking the bank, not compared with even purchasing a new 350 chev crate engine!!! These folk will whip you up a harness as well for about $900AUD or so, http://www.venomcobras.com/services.html#10 Just send them yours and tell him what gearbox your running and he will mail it back, labelled and ready to go!!! There is another guy called Sideshow who frequents Toymods.org for the wiring but don't have his contact information - he is supposed to be excellent as well!!! I will try and get some decent pics of the Crossmember and transmission tunnel and post them!!! Exactly my point really. I get can a 1UZ for under $500 USD, but the transmission and conversion would more than triple the total cost of parts. Where as I can get a 5.0 Ford or 350 SBC used with transmission for well under $1,000 USD. If I could get a 1UZ for the same price, I'd have a hard time turning it down, despite it's disadvantage for cheap performance upgrades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 Ford Australia stopped putting V8's in local cars from 1982/83 to 1992/93 and Holden (GM) used their own V8 until the late 90's - so they are a touch thinner on the ground than over in the states - the prices you pay for the Ford 5.0L and Chevy LT1 and earlier 350's are much, much cheaper than what we pay in Aus - and the LS1 is just insanely expensive, can find them occasionally for around the $3kAUD, but can pay up to $5kAUD for a 2nd hand long motor from a wrecker - and the T56 2nd hand usually goes for about $3kAUD, thats about the price I have found the 6-speed Getrag from a 2jzgtte Supra - know which gearbox I'd prefer! But prices over here are pretty crazy for Ford and Chevy small-blocks, particulary when you compare how much you pay for 1jz, 2jz's, 1uz's, RB's etc and what the end product is! They really don't offer any sort of value what so ever!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91_4x4runner Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 I don't mean to throw something on here that I don't know jack about, but I'm going to anyways. There's a fella on Lextreme running 25psi on a stock, unopened block in a Celica. For a short while, he even had it supercharged and turbocharged... There's videos of him on youtube if you look it up. http://lextreme.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1238 Here's a video of it on the dyno: http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w74/celicagt8/?action=view¤t=GT8dynorun.flv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc280 Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Hey Toncharger, thanks for the info about the w58 2jz shifter, I didn't realise that one even existed... that may solve some problems although if I move my engine forward anymore I'll need to fabricate a new sump, but then that'd be a lot better than having to do under dash master cylinders.... I'd also love to go for a T56 or Tremec or something... I'm guessing you know that you can get a kit which uses the tremec 5 speed box out of the XR6 Turbos. I'd think that would also have to be a decent step up over the W series boxes and they can also be had for reasonable prices. I paid about $1700 for my kit from dellow which included everything that is required to get it working. So that is bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, slave cylinder, throwout bearing, all bolts etc. The reason I went for the dellow kit is apprently you have to do a little grinding with the CRS kit and it also doesn't use all of the bellhousing to engine block bolt holes... I found the customer service from Dellow to be really good, they faxed me all the info about 5mins after I called. As for the exhaust I'm planning to join the pipes just after the gearbox. I've heard a lot of people saying these engines sounds a lot better with just one outlet... and then working out how to fit it all in is also a lot easier. I know it is pretty tight for header space, I just don't like how the rear exhaust runner joins into the manifold for the soarer design.... I've put up a few more pics in the thread that I've started, with some more to come. 91_4x4runner I've seen the GT8 celica a couple of times as the guy who owns it is a member of my brothers celica club, that was the car that got me loving the 1uz's. He gives that car a flogging and it has never been opened up, any engine that can put out 350-400rwkw with plenty of torque reliably on a stock engine has my vote! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 I will have to give Dellow another call and get them to send me out their pricing lists - would be pretty cool to put in a manual, save me finding an auto pedal box and installing it into the Zed, that isnt the funnest job in the world !!! "I'd also love to go for a T56 or Tremec or something... I'm guessing you know that you can get a kit which uses the tremec 5 speed box out of the XR6 Turbos. I'd think that would also have to be a decent step up over the W series boxes and they can also be had for reasonable prices. " Did the XR6 turbo's come with a 5-speed? I thought they all used the T56 - I dont really know - but I would be thinking the R154 is a much better buy than the T56? cost's about half as much and I would be surprised if the R154 is much weaker, if not stronger than the T56 gearbox??? "As for the exhaust I'm planning to join the pipes just after the gearbox. I've heard a lot of people saying these engines sounds a lot better with just one outlet... and then working out how to fit it all in is also a lot easier. I know it is pretty tight for header space, I just don't like how the rear exhaust runner joins into the manifold for the soarer design...." Yeah I had a good look under my Zed yesterday and think dual exhaust really would be a pain !!! really think you would have to install a custom filler neck for the fuel tank - probably not really worth the effort unless your super-duper keen on dual exhaust! Have you seen these fellows? http://bulletcars.com/superchargers/toyota/ Not overly cheap and probably unlikely to fit under a normal bonnet - but f#ck it would be cool !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc280 Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 I'm sure an auto would still be a lot of fun (and possibly better if you want to drag race it), but for me I like being in charge of the gears... I would have really liked to go for a R154 box although I just couldn't justify the extra expense. I think the T56 is physically a lot bigger so if you can find a R154 for a resonable price it'd definitley be worth while. From all the reports I hear people say a W series box holds up fine behind an N/A motor. I don't really plan on drag racing my car much, I'm intending mine to be more a fun street car with the occasional track day, so fingers crossed that the W series box will be fine. I've seen the bullet supercharger kits, and apprently they actually sit lower on the engine than the standard plenum does.... so if you've got a bit of extra cash that could be a very nice way to go. Although I'd want to go the M112 supercharger over the M90 if I were going to go to the extra trouble. Have you seen the work that Rush Imports does? I think the guy who runs it is Neil Griffiths and he's got a Lysholm twin screw kit which is able to make some really good power and torque.... take a look at this http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=iKg3XZPjK_M&feature=related Do you plan on getting everything engineered once it is all done? One thing to keep in mind is I don't think you can legally install a supercharged or turboed 1uz in a zed due to the capacity restictions (well in NSW anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 Ok guys got some more pics of the Engine and Gearbox Crossmembers!!! New Gearbox Mounts, Shot of them welded into the tunnel, Left Side, Right Side, New Engine Crossmember & Subaru Steering Rack, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traitorjacknif Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 whats the spec on the subaru rack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted October 27, 2008 Author Share Posted October 27, 2008 How do you mean mate? Like what Subaru is it from? I went searching for a WRX rack but all I could find locally was Liberty and Forester rack's from the early to mid-90's, well without paying over $250 for it !!! So that rack from memory is from a 1991 Liberty, I have another rack from a 1994 Forester (or might be Liberty, looks identical) nice and cheap!!! And from having a look at other folks power steering conversions my rack looks very similar to what others have used! However, when I originally thought of using the Subaru rack I more or less slapped it onto the original Datto rack mounts - this caused a few issues, firstly the steering coupling bashed into the engine mounts - so a section has to be cut out, secondly could just squeeze a piece of paper between the intermediate shaft and chassis rails, thirdly the fluid lines on the rack were a b#stard - really tricky to run them without hacking the f#ck out of the crossmember, forthly the rack ends are a touch wider and higher than the inner control arm pivot points! The main reason why I went nuts with the crossmember was to make it suit the Subaru rack, not so much the 1UZ engine - if I had stuck with the original rack could have just as easily whipped up similar engine mounts to what I have used in the above photos! By re-making the rack mounts and everything else in between I have been able to position the rack and inner control pivot points, intermediate shaft and fluid lines to better suit the Subaru Rack and Datsun body! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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