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Vq35hr??


Pharaohabq

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longer rods = shorter strokes

 

shorter rods = longer strokes

 

 

so yes, you two are saying the same thing, just differently.

 

Actually your rod has nothing to do with the stroke of the engine. The crank throw is what determines the stroke. You could have a mile long connecting rod and you would still have the same stroke if its connected to the same crank. What the longer/short rod does for you is it changes rod tangency.

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So, I found and ordered online the ECU and BCM from an 07 350z. I assume they should work for my engine, unfortunately they won't give me a warranty on the parts since I don't have the original car's VIN # that the engine came out of. Those parts should show up later this week. either that or I got scammed, but I think I'm okay.

 

the Nissan dealer said there's 2 ECU's for the 07/08 350z, one w/ traction control, and one w/o. I was told this is the one without. I asked for the VIN from the donor car on these as well, but I dunno if they'll give it to me, though I thought it was a law that any dismantler had to provide the VIN upon request.

 

I'll need to get the NATS ant, but that's 77 bucks new from the dealer.

 

Does anyone know if you can cut a 350z key to work in a 280z?

 

Phar

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Okay, I just recieved my ECU and BCM. I'll buy the NATS at the dealer since I couldn't get a key at the same time as the ECU/BCM. Keys I'll buy of Ebay probably, there's 100's at like 20 bucks. Still don't know if I can cut a 350Z key to work on a 280 ignition switch. from what I've read the key only has to be within a couple inches of the NATS antenna, so I may be able to get it to work. alternatively, I can zip tie a programmed key to the nats antenna and tuck it up in the dash, and then just use the stock 280z ignition. tho that defeats the immobilizer, which is kinda the point.

 

Here's a list of what I've got and what I need:

Datsun 280z VQ35HR swap

quant Mfg Item Cost notes

1.00 Datsun 280Z 300.00 78'

1.00 Nissan VQ35HR 900.00 shp incl

1.00 Nissan flywheel 60.00 shp incl

1.00 Nissan Clutch/pressure plate needed (autozone?)

1.00 Nissan 6sp 07 tranny 800.00 shp incl

1.00 Nissan 07 ECU M31 150.00 shp incl (jn1bz34e77m552963)

1.00 Nissan 07 BCM 60.00 shp incl (jn1bz34e77m552963)

1.00 Nissan Engine harness 0.00 came w/ engine

1.00 Nissan Tranny mount 35.00 off my350z, shp incl

2.00 Nissan 350z Cats 118.00 off my350z, shp incl

1.00 Nissan 350z alt, PS 25.00 off my350z, shp incl

1.00 Nissan 350z Starter needed (autozone?)

1.00 Nissan 350z body harness needed

~~ Nissan 350z misc metric bolts needed

2.00 Nissan MAF Sensors needed,pn:226807S000, Got list,any 2004+ nissan should work. ~70 each

2.00 Nissan Intake tubes 50.00 off my350z, shp incl

1.00 Nissan Clutch master cyl / hoses needed

1.00 Nissan gauges needed, maybe. May try to keep stock. Or at least stock look.

1.00 Misc Exhaust needed

1.00 mufflers

1.00 Nissan 350z Key+ign needed

Misc metalwork paint etc. separate project.

 

 

 

 

If I've missed something or failed to list it, please let me know and I'll add it.

 

Thanks

Phar

Edited by Pharaohabq
table messed up
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what i'm doing is using the stock 240sx ignition with the maxima(the ecu i'm using) ignition hidden in a safe spot where I can still access and pull the key out of that so that way nats is still used.

 

Hmm So you're using two keys then? That would make sense. I wonder how hard one of those bluetooth fob systems would be to integrate into this. I was reading in the FSM a bit last night. And from what I can tell the NATS ant really has no smarts to it, it's just relaying the code from the key to the BCM. That's good and bad, in that if I had an alternate antenna like a bluetooth, it could likely read it, but the bad is interfacing, and then ensuing the bluetooth Fob is a compatible code. I'd have to get a couple NATS antenna to tear apart and see how the guts work. they're ~75 bucks at the dealer.

 

Oh on my list I forgot:

 

2.00 Nissan, O2 sensors, , I have 2 upstream, but need the downstream.

1.00 Nissan, Fusebox, , My harness is missing the fusebox(s)

 

Phar

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Actually your rod has nothing to do with the stroke of the engine. The crank throw is what determines the stroke. You could have a mile long connecting rod and you would still have the same stroke if its connected to the same crank. What the longer/short rod does for you is it changes rod tangency.

 

 

while you are right, but only when building your own engines out of skyscrapers. what I said was in reference to a particular block and design that has set dimensions. If you change out the crank on a block for one with a longer throw you would need shorter connecting rods otherwise the pistons would be kissing your valve cover... not literally but definitely there would be contact between the piston and the head if the rod length is not changed.

 

So yes, the rod does not define the stroke of the engine. But rather the crank throw and the block define the rod. So if the crank changes, but the block stays the same, then the rod needs to change too.

 

 

 

 

honestly I don't know why I brought it up. I completely misunderstood what they were talking about at the time, I must of finished an overnight shift before I posted and didn't read it correctly

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I understood what ya meant. :-)

You are referring to rod/stroke ratio. A better rod/stroke ratio reduces the sideload on the cylinder walls on the downstroke. Likewise, gaining a specific displacement by more bore and less stroke makes the engine more over-square which also allows it to rev better. Look at sportbike bore/stroke numbers. :-)

It sounds like your new VQ35HR is pretty sweet. Not so sure about all the modern networked electronics. I would put a standalone on it if it were me. Why the cats, by the way?

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I am using cats too because 1 I want my car to get reffed so it will be legal for street use. And 2 ♥♥♥♥ the bullshit 5hp gain at an RPM I will not be in often that also causes dramatic increase in pollution. Honestly there probably would be a lot less modification restriction if we all just kept the cats anyways.

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I am using cats too because 1 I want my car to get reffed so it will be legal for street use. And 2 ♥♥♥♥ the bullshit 5hp gain at an RPM I will not be in often that also causes dramatic increase in pollution. Honestly there probably would be a lot less modification restriction if we all just kept the cats anyways.

 

 

Yeah, I'm going to use the cats for a few reasons:

1. I don't want to have trouble with the CEL due to O2 sensor differences, since I'll likely be fighting CEL's from the systems I'm not swapping over.

 

2. Emissions. I don't want any trouble with not passing inspection. not that I'm expecting any trouble. for a 78' 280Z in NM they allow up to 5 points on all emissions stats.

 

3. I don't want a super loud car. the Cats along with mid pipe muffler and a large endpipe muffler should quiet it down a little. I know I'll lose a little HP due to restriction, but no more than the stock pipes I would think.

 

Phar

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Oh, didn't know y'all had emissions in NM. I'm personally running leaded race fuel (since I rarely drive the car) and cats no likey.

 

Yeah, unfortunately, we do in Bernalillo county, NM.. THo, I was reading, and I might be able to get an emissions exemption for the engine swap. Gotta get it swapped first...

 

 

UPDATE:

So, I did a little work, I installed the wiring harness onto the engine. It took a little figuring, but it really only goes on one direction. oh and I found I'll have to zip tie one of my TB's plugs, cuz the connector is broken, hopefully that won't be an issue.

 

I was reading and looking at the harnesses I have, I found that I actually have the engine harness, and the Main Body(dash) harness. Which it good, I was thinking I'd have to locate a dash harness, but not I just need the dash sub harness and the engine compartment harnesses along with the Fuse block, relay block, ACAmp and IPC module. :( guh.

 

(If anyone is contimplating a VQ swap. I highly recommend pulling your parts yourself, or finding the engine/tranny as a COMPLETE SWAP including all harnesses, ECU,BCM etc etc because running down parts is a pita! save yourself time and $$$ and just buy it as a unit.)

 

Phar

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, it should be nice. I just got the wife sparked about it yesterday when I showed her the Sportmax 16's I'm going to run. But that's down the road a ways. I guess I should take some picts though not much has changed. I got the HR air tubes and filter boxes. I'm going to mount them up by the radiator in that huge open space that will be in front of the engine, hopefully that'll be enough, unless I can fit them in front. though I might ditch the boxes for dual K&N's. I needed the tubes for the MAF mouting points and I think the HR looks good with both tubes in place. though I might use some polished aluminum to extend the tubes a ways.

 

I also got a set of 07 Gauges cheap, but they might be all bad. I didn't pay much for them so no doubt I can sell them again if I can't make them work. I know there's some corroded connections. we'll see.

 

Phar

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  • 3 weeks later...

Okay quick update. I've got almost everything for the swap now. I just bought a set of 07 harnesses all from the same car so that should fix my main harness problem since the one that came w/ the engine was from an 03-05. those should be here next week.

 

I'll start a new thread when it comes to the build. This is for parts, gathering..

 

Oh I still need an HR clutch, new they're like 400 bucks, damn,... Sucks, but maybe I can find one somewhere. gotta call more junk yards.

 

I wonder if i swap in a DE flywheel if i can make it work with the hr actuator?

 

phar

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Little more update, Looking around I found a "good" used flywheel/clutch/disc for $50, it's not new, but was swapped for an aluminum setup so it should still be good. We'll see when we get it installed.

 

Next, I'm looking for MAF's, but those can wait till later.

 

I've been looking into Fuel pump ideas. I don't think the Stock 280z pump could supply the kind of pressure the VQ will need, so I'd like to use a Stock 350Z pump, but that would mean swapping my gas tank. I'm going to do some mesurments and see what other Vehicle tanks could fit. If I could fit a 350Z tank that would be ideal, but I doubt I'm that lucky, maybe a G35 tank. I'll look around. The advantage of using a stock tank is that the sender would function, and I wouldn't need a surge tank.

 

Phar

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  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, well I got my MAF's for ~45 ea x2. so that's not bad. Most nissan 03+ used the same MAFS. I also got the downstream O2 sensors for $15. along with a spare BCM. I also got both fuse boxes, the inside one and the IPCM. those I especially lucked out to get cheap. So pretty much I'm ready to start the install since I now have about everything I need.

 

Oh... I nave to go to Nissan and buy the Tranny bolts($12) and the shifter bolts since Austin's adapter doesn't come with any, and my tranny didn't have any. I need to go buy some 1/8 or 3/16 wall box tubing to build my engine crossmember/mounts.

 

Phar

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  • 1 month later...

Okay, So here's a little update. I pumped a bunch of greas into the crank shaft where the pilot bearing is and used a 14 MM long socket with a bolt in it to seal up the hole. then tapping the socket with a 2x4, the old pilot bearing just poped right out, easy peasy. I was amazed... I Bought a used 07 clutch/flywheel/PP off My350z.com for Cheap, I figure I can't really beat that price, tho I had to buy mounting bolts from Nissan to put it together which weren't cheap. (they are (9) T50 hardened torx bolts to fit the flywheel $6 ea, $3 ea w/ ABQZ.com discount) Next I get to connect the tranny.

 

Eric

Pharaohabq

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  • 1 month later...

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