Vq35hr??

[SypherSlayer]

Yeah I'm pretty sure whoever finishes first will be the first S30 powered HR but I'm guessing my build will take at least a year, which puts you and mark welllllll ahead of me. Hell I'll be happy to be one of the first "few" with an HR S30 haha.

Marks car is CRAZY! cant wait to see what that thing will do. But for my budget, your car is what I'll be modeling my Z after. (more of a daily driver set up)

I've been focusing on how I plan on doing my motor mounts. Mostly due to the fact I can't make up my mind haha (i work for a steel building manufacturer so i can make up some mounts pretty cheap just need to decide what i want.)

 

Can't wait to see what else you've got going.

Daniel

[Pharaohabq]

Yeah, I've been trying to keep my build on a budget. I'm not made of $, I'm just a lowly computer guy. Hehe, but finishing the HRS30 would be really awesome. I guess mark is going to show his car in april, so he'll have us way beat by then. No biggie. I'm hoping to have the paint done by May if I can swing it. Then it's assembly time. Hopefully it won't take too long after that. The Exhaust is one of my headaches now. Oh I still need the picts. I'll try to post those soon, gotta get them off the camera.

 

Phar

[sq_creations]

Who are you gonna have paint it? Are you gonna come by the meet tonight?

[Pharaohabq]

Hey Sq_Creations (Eric)yeah, It was good to see you there. I picked up that front airdam from Nelson. It was cool making it to a Zclub meeting, but it's a distance for me. I'd really like to have it back central to town.

 

As for paint, I was thinking Crown Coachworks. They've done a great job fixing my wife's car when it got hit (all 3 times). So might go with them, but I'm going to get some estimates. Haul the car around on a trailer some afternoon. Do you know anyone Good/Cheap, I got time..

 

Phar (Eric)

[Pharaohabq]

Getting a lot closer to affording the paint. Hopefully, won't hurt too bad. Still looking for a trailer. Might just build one, if I can't borrow one.

[Pharaohabq]

I've been asked a few times about how I'm going to do my fuel system. so here's an exerp of one of my replies:

 

Now Fuel system. There's a lot to be said about the fuel system. Different ways of setting it up. I'm sure you've all read a lot of the builds for the VQ35 Z swaps. A lot of people setup a "deadhead" type swap, where there's just one line running from the rear to the engine. This is good, mainly because you can have higher pressures/ Volumes by replacing the stock lines. If you're not adding Turbos or bigger injectors, you probably don't have to do this. My plan for running the fuel lines will be to use the stock tank, replacing the stock external fuel pump with a Walborough L255 EFI fuel pump and a high flow filter at the rear. Then running the stock S30 fuel line from the back of the car to to front, where I will have the Surge tank and Fuel Pressure regulator. The surge tank will have 3 lines. The input from the pump, a line from the bottom to the engine, and a line from the top through the FPR, to the fuel return line which dumps back into the tank. The Charcoal canister will T into that after the FPR. The canister takes fumes from the PCV valve and condenses them into fuel, and sets that into the tank, while also allowing vapors into the intake. It's not needed, but if you have it, might use it just to keep the environment happy.

 

Having the FPR on top of the surge will allow any bubbles to flow out through the FPR back to the tank, while the Engine pressure on the bottom is only fuel. The 350Z fuel rails also have their own regulators which I will leave on mine since I'm not changing my rails. the 350z engine fuel line is the same size as the S30, so that should not be a problem. Attached is a diagram.

 

 

 

If I have trouble, I can move the surge and FPR to the rear and run both the Fuel and return in parallel to the engine from the bottom of the surge to allow more volume, with no return from the engine. The FPR would dump directly back into the tank. but I don't think that's necessary.

 

Now at this point it looks like a good design to me. Please let me know if you have any input.

Edited July 10, 2012 by Pharaohabq

[Zman0690]

Alright, here's my chance to show my potential ignorance. From my understanding there would be no reason why you would even need that surge tank if that is how you are going to run that setup. Problem that I see is that most surge tank designs have a higher volume pump filling their surge tanks and then have their high pressure pump afterwards to create their needed pressure. With your design you would never have any return unless your surge tank was full and as such if your surge tank ever was not a 100% capacity you would lose your needed pressure. I thought the whole reason for a surge tank was for fuel scavenging and regulation in high volume situations whether that be momentarily or constantly which is why you want a high volume pump to feed your surge tank. Now I don't know about the HR setup as I am doing just a DE swap but the items on my fuel rails are not FPR but are to stabilize fuel pulsations. They act more like fuel dampeners than regulators. Please correct me if I'm wrong because I hate to be wrong. I'm in the middle of working up some reports and saw this come through as a new post so if my mind is not in the right place please excuse me.

 

Josh

[Pharaohabq]

Josh,

Hey Pretty much you're right, the surge tank is not entirely needed, though since the S30 Fuel tank is not baffled it is possible to get bubbles in the lines especially swinging around corners. Usually this isn't a problem, but it can cause a stumble in the engine. So having the surge tank FPR from the top and engine outlet on the bottom will allow the bubbles to rise and be pushed out the FPR. The pressurized fuel will go out the bottom to the engine ensuring clear fuel. The return is after the FPR. all the surge tank would then be doing is guaranteeing clear fuel at pressure in enough volume that what ever the engine needed at WOT it would get. The injectors are a lot smaller opening than the 5/16" fuel line, so this shouldn't be an issue. Unless of course, I'm misunderstanding how the FPR works.

The FPR as I know it: you set a pressure, the FPR allows the pump to build to that pressure, then allows any pressure above that to flow through. So the return line after the FPR would have tank pressure whatever that ends up. Before the FPR the line pressure should be just whatever the FPR setting isn't letting through. So the return line is after the FPR and not pressurized, thus you can T the return from the canister into it.

Another way of setting it up, is on the deadhead idea, where you have your pump pushing down a closed up line up to max pump pressure. the FPR would then be put at the end of that line before the connection to the engine. The FPR would regulate the pressure to whatever setting (55psi) so that the engine only sees 55psi. The fuel like though leading to the FPR could be 100psi or whatever your pump can do. This is good in that your engine would always be guaranteed 55psi even under a heavy draw WOT. but bad in that the high pressure line between the pump and FPR would take a lot of abuse and the pump would always be working really hard (guaranteeing early failure) this would be suceptable to bubbles w/ or w/o a surge tank.

As I understand it, these are the two ways I know, Return, and returnless.

Edited July 1, 2013 by Pharaohabq

[Pharaohabq]

Well it's been some time since I've got to post any progress, since having a kid and all has taken a lot of my spare time away, not to mention funding.  As I mentioned before, I'm still in the tearing down for pain phase of my project, but it's nice to start putting some things back together.  Here's some pictures of my Steering Crossmember I'd put back in so I can get the car back on it's wheels.

 

Here's the Steering crossmember bolted back in place. Sorry the Black is hard to show detail, but you can see how much we cut out.  It's reenforced under the Rack.

 

In this detail you can better see the cutout for the HR oil filter.  I should still be able to clear at least 1/2" around the filter. I cut it mainly because I didnt' want anything to rub.

 

and zoomed out a little.  Pardon the crap under the car, cardboard is softer than concrete to lay on.

 

 

As always, any Questions let me know.

 

Phar

Edited July 1, 2013 by Pharaohabq

[docaam]

Yours is cut and welded nicely compared to mine lol

[Pharaohabq]

Thanks, MIG welding really makes it easy to make nice welds.  then lots of grinding and then primer and paint.  I may have to mod this crossmember more to clear the steering shaft with that AC pump, but we'll get there in a while.

[koshin]

How has the swap been going over the past year? 

I am starting my HR swap in the next few weeks here.

Looking forward to sharing with you and the rest of the community. 

Here are a few parts teasers.

Edited June 29, 2014 by koshin

[Pharaohabq]

Hi Koshin, Great!  another HR build, I'll be really interested in seeing what you do with yours.  It looks like you've already got the engine.  Do you have the harnesses?  ECU/BCU/KEY? IPDM?  You're getting parts, but I'd recommend you stop buying extras till you get the engine in place and running.  You're going to need to get the accessories like the Alternator. You'll need new clutch parts. and the Harnesses, Turbo Toys dismantles a lot of 350 z's so they're a good source. but look around.    It looks like you're going to use the Reproduction  mounts, That's fine, but the McKinney stuff is good, though a little expensive.  If I had to do it again I'd go with their kit.   You're going to need the Crossmember modded, so take a good look at mine. I boxed mine in a bit under the steering rack for strength.   Have you read my VQ swap primer in this same forum?   I'll be looking for your thread.

[koshin]

Phar, thanks for the induction.

 

I have been crawling around this site researching this build for many years now.

I have read your thread, Austin's, Myron's, and another. I think that I have covered all aspects of it. 

You all have great info and I am thankful that there is this support community here.

 

I have purchased the engine and trans already. I got all the wiring harnesses, the pedal assy, ECU, BCM, IPDM, keys, ign, alternator, drive shaft, MAFs, O2 sensors, clutch pack/flywheel, throwout bearing, clutch master cyl (Austin did this mod too), and a few other things.

What new clutch parts do you think I will need? The engine had low milage on it (10K) and it all looks to be in very good shape. 

 

The engine mounts are an AutoCAD file I got from a guy in NZ. It is basically 3 plates that you get laser/water cut and then weld together. I may or may not go this route: might make my own. I will be doing a 'cradle' style mounting system.

 

Planning on modding the crossmember similar to whats been done before.

 

Ill start my thread as soon as I can and look forward to sharing with you and the community!!

 

-Matt

[Pharaohabq]

I haven't really done much of anything with my engine for a while. Mostly I've been tearing down the body itself to prep it for paint (When I can afford that)  I've got the front end all apart, and will start the rear soon. 

I also got a pair of 08 350Z leather seats to put in so I'm modding the tranny tunnel a bit to fit them. I'll be using the stock 280 rails adapted to the 350Z sliders.  for the mount.  It should all work, just it's a pain to do the mods. Pain, I mean takes time I don't have right off.   

 

Anyway, my HR is sitting on a roller with the tranny attached, waiting for me to get the paint done.  then it'll be wiring it up. 

 

I'm also going to use the 350Z steering column with the adjustable height etc. I'll have to adapt the lower end from the stock 280 rack due to the length differences. But it shouldn't be a big deal. I want to do that so I can use the 350Z blinkers etc on the column instead of the stock, since it'll plug into my harness anyway.  The biggest issue is trying to see if a 300ZX steering wheel will fit on a 350Z column, since I want to use the 91 wheel with the cruise buttons. The 350 and 370z wheels will work, but they're pricy.  There is a 350z wooden wheel that looks like the 280 wheel, that I'm really tempted to use.  I'd have to use a different set of cruise buttons then.  oh it's a project.