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Custom Boost and AFR gauge


pcs_russ

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Figured some of you guys would be interested in this. I don't like gauge pods on the A-pillar and wanted an OEM look. So, I took 2 amperage gauges and made my own custom gauge and driver circuit. I need to filter the AFR gauge some more as it jumps around a little. I also reprinted my own gauge face for the tach and recalibrated it to 10000 rpm. I'll take a video of it working and post it also.

 

 

Russ

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  • 2 weeks later...

That's pretty impressive!

I'm betting that there will be enough of a demand after you get all of the bugs worked out for this and the 10k stock tach if you want to sell/convert them:wink:

 

The 10K was easy... I just adjusted the screw on the back until it read 8000 when being fed a 10K signal. Then I printed a new guage face that was rescaled to 10K. I will post the graphics file when I return next week so that any one who wants a 10K tach can just carry the file to your local grpahics place and have them print and cut one out. The file has the cut lines included.

 

could you do a writeup on how to make these changes? Some very sweet work!!

 

I'll do a write up on making the gauges and the driver circuit for the AFR/Boost gauge. I setup my AFR/boost gauge to receive data from my Electromotive ECU. So its not connected directly to any of the sensors. It would be easy for someone to take my driver circuit and drive it directly from a MAP sensor and wideband unit.

 

Russ

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Is the tach still accurate at lower rpms?

 

Yes, I took the stock tach and marked every 1000 rpm from 0 to 10000. Then scanned in the stock face and made my new one using the marks for reference. The stock tach is by no means linear.

Here is how my calibration turned out after I adjusted it to 10000. I used these values to make my new gauge face.

 

Actual RPM Measured vs. RPM on stock gauge

1000 750

2000 1500

3000 2250

4000 3000

5000 3900

6000 4675

7000 5500

8000 6350

9000 7100

10000 8000

 

I can upload the Adobe Illustrator file if someone has somewhere to host it. Its about 150megs but it includes the cut lines you'll need for the graphics place.

 

Russ

tach and oil and temp 002_thumb.jpg

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I thoroughly commend you on great ingenuity! And I love your car - it is beautiful, so evidently you know what you are doing.. but here are my concerns.

 

1) I much prefer a "full-sweep" gauge for AFR...that way its easier and much faster on the eye to read and react (more importantly). It only takes a split second to detonate a motor and I would rather 360degrees of calibration to know the difference between the numbers. Also from your YouTube video that needle is dancing around like crazy it is tricky to tell if its showing 12:1 or 13:1 and the calibrations are very close, I would be very nervous about that, as these L6s are not happy beyond 12.2 or 12.5:1. Hopefully your filtering will mitigate this.

 

2) What is the need for a 10K tach on a L6 motor when they make torque power about 4500rpm? Assuming you are running a L6?

 

Great work none the less.

Yasin

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I agree the needle gauge is not good for tuning and I only use for monitoring. I tune using the wideband reading from the ECU. I only made the gauge because I wanted a 100% stock looking interior and was not going to have a wideband and boost gauge stuffed somewhere.

 

I have smoothed out the gauge and its actually not that bad to read. You can tell if its 11.0:1 or 11:5:1 but thats as close as you get. When I get my new driveshaft I'll take a new video with the camera mounted in the car so you can see how well it works. I plan on making a new gauge face for it as the needles actual sweep further than I thought and I'm losing resolution.

 

The 10K tach is for my RB26.

 

Russ

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  • 3 weeks later...

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