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Installing Rostra 250-1223 Cruise Control

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My 1980 280ZX has a broken Vacuum (OEM) cruise control. I am considering the Rostra 250-1223 Electric Universial after market Cruise Control with the 250-3592 Dash Switch. In regards to the speed sensor, can I tape into the OEM Speedometer Speed Sensor used by the old OEM Vacuum Cruise Control System. Has anyone done this modification. If my sugestion will not work, what other speed sensor pickups have worked. I really do not like the drive shaft mods. Thanks for any advise!!!

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My 1980 280ZX has a broken Vacuum (OEM) cruise control. I am considering the Rostra 250-1223 Electric Universial after market Cruise Control with the 250-3592 Dash Switch. In regards to the speed sensor, can I tape into the OEM Speedometer Speed Sensor used by the old OEM Vacuum Cruise Control System. Has anyone done this modification. If my sugestion will not work, what other speed sensor pickups have worked. I really do not like the drive shaft mods. Thanks for any advise!!!

 

Do you just need the vacuum can with the cable? I have one if you need it.

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Id like to know if you can get this to work also. Im really wanting to install cruise control into my Z for the 12hr. trips from FL to TN. or from TN to KS

 

 

Hey Jeff I just got the Rostra setup for Christmas. I'll be installing it right after I install my manifold. It looks like a nice system.

Derek

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Hello MadMaxDallas, Thanks, but the control switches are bad and I was not able to check the Vacuum Can. The vacuum hoses are trash as well. I just like the hassle free Electronic Cruise Control Option. I have heard that these new Electric Cruise Controls (and in particular the Rostra 250-1223 Universal Cruise Control) are some much more accutate and smother than the Vacuum Systems. I also understand that Vacuum is really old technology anyway.

 

Derek, What is your plan for speed sensing? Are you going to try and tap into the speedo as I have planned? I was also thinking about using the generator pickup Rostra offers for some models as a second option if the Speedo does not work. I also understand there are pickups that work through the distributor as well but have not investigated the Technical aspects of that yet. I just do not like going under the car to the drive shaft as a primary option. I want to keep everything in the engine bay. Will go with plan A and work my way down the list. The Speedo mode makes the most sense to me as option A right now.

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My plan is to use this 8K signal generator

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=109/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd109.htm

 

 

I'm not positive on this but I don't think there's enough room between the tunnel and the transmission for this. I might need to locate a 90 degree speedo cable adapter or a cable that's about 6"

long with females on both ends.

 

derek

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If ya do t this, document it well and let us know!

 

My plan is to use this 8K signal generator

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=109/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd109.htm

 

 

I'm not positive on this but I don't think there's enough room between the tunnel and the transmission for this. I might need to locate a 90 degree speedo cable adapter or a cable that's about 6"

long with females on both ends.

 

derek

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Thanks Derek, I had seen that 8K Signal Generator somewhere before. My 280zx has the 130MPH Speedo so if there is a speed limit issue it will most likely be in the Cruise Control Brain and not a speedometer issue. I was considering at one time getting one of those 8k Signal Generators and placing it between the short and long speedo cable under the dash where they mate together. The issue would be (obviously) adaptability. The 8k is probably standard and the 280ZX metric. Also I'd be spending money and time tearing my car apart just to test out the possibilities. Does anyone have a set of (short & long) speedo cables laying around. That would be the best way to check out this theory. It would be very cool if we could make it work. I can tell you those speedo cables are very touchy and there is a chance we could screw up any accurate speedometer readings in the process. The 8k Signal Generator would have to be a smooth installation without any binding what-so-ever!!! I had to replace mind once already.

Back to the 280ZX OEM Speed generator from behind the speedometer... I should be able to tap into it where the two signal wires terminate at the servo switches next to the Cruise Control Vacuum Can in the engine bay. I do not think I'll have to tear into the Dash... (AGAIN!!! UGG!!!)... Just thinking out loud a little about Instalation Issues.

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Crap I wish I had seen that before I got the kit from Dakota. I'll get ahold of Rostra. I'll bet they sell the cable separately.

 

Thanks for the heads up

Derek

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Hello all, Well I've spent the last two days hoking up my Cruise Control "Rostra 250-1223 with the flat panel switch 250-3592. I taped into the OEM VSS on the back of the speedometer. It is a real clean job and looks nice however... it is not working and I'm out of time this weekend to continue. I think the 280ZX VSS is not compatible with the Cruise Control. I do not have any other information other than that. I would like to know if anyone has one working and what their dip-switch (1 - 12) set up is. I tried several combination's before calling it a day. I have absolutely no idea about 1) Gain Sensitivity 2) Pulses/Mile setting 3) Engine is 6 cylinder but LOW - HIGH - VERY HIGH?? I'd guess low but really am not sure. Would really like some information from someone that is up and running. Thanks, FreeZ in Waco, TX..

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Well I got my cruise installed. I ended up ordering the magnet sensor kit. I tried to make the speedo cable sensor work but it was too much of a pain. I started out with one magnet but had bad surging. I ended up going with 4 magnets and had to set the pulse count to 18000 before it was drivable. I just did a 2 hour trip and it worked like a champ.

 

Derek

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Yes, I have had mine up and running for a few weeks now and it works great! I used one magnet and then put in a second because of the surging problem as well. If anyone needs pictures and dip switch setting info for their 280ZX installation, just ask. I plan on doing a write-up and posting it but time is a problem. I mounted my unit on the bracket that used to hold the trouble light or idiot light. It was a perfect fit with the cable running up and over the strut tower (with two clamps) and then along the firewall. The same hardware that held the old CC in place can be used. It was a real clean installation with the throttle cable being just the right length as though it was made for this particular installation. I tried the speedometer VSS as well and it will not work, wires are still in place. The magnet cruise control can be installed from within the car by removing the center counsel and shifter boot. You have to bend the bracket into a “Z†shape and bolt it in. The wires run under the boot and center counsel through the passenger compartment and out at the same location where you bring the wires in from the engine compartment. In regards to the switch I used 250-3592 dash switch, and hooked up all the wires (not all are required for it to work). At night when the lights are on the switch have two green lights that light-up in the center. As a side note I had the opportunity to switch between the magnet VSS and the Speedometer VSS for two weeks. The speedometer VSS just is not compatible with the 250-1223 unit and will not work. I am a happy camper after many hours of trouble shooting and experimenting with different VSS’s. You have to wait just a few moments when first turning the CC on before setting the speed. The CC needs time to get a sample speed before it can function correctly. In 5th gear it pulls and coast without shutting off on the hills around here. I have had it set as high as 90 MPH (I have a 130 MPH Speedometer) so there seems to be no problem between 85 and 130 Speedometers. I also ran all wires through a (already there) rubber boot just below the battery where an engine harness goes through the firewall. I just cut a small slice in the side of the boot. It is a good idea to tap or wrap (electrical tap) the CC wire harness in a nice and clean way its entire length before installing the wires through the boot. There is a wire issue with the 250-3592 that I will discuss in depth when I post the install notes later. You have to purchase a special switch at radio shack and make a modification because the 25-3592 is not entirely compatible with the 250-1223. The switch mounts very nicely right where the old ON/OFF switch was with a little fabrication. That’s pretty much it in a nut shell. If you have any question, just post them. :burnout:

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