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rossman

Ross' Sleeper Z

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Rossman:

 

Who is your source for electrical terminal strips etc as shown in previous photos? Please advise. Thanks.

 

Post #66 above :)

 

Racer Parts Wholesale

 

I also have two Blue Sea System bus bars next to the battery for power and ground distribution for the entire car. I purchased these at my local Boats US store.

Edited by rossman

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Rossman:

 

Who is your source for electrical terminal strips etc as shown in previous photos? Please advise. Thanks.

 

 

The terminal blocks are made by Fastronix. I got them from Racer Parts Wholesale. The fuse block came from Del City or Waytek, I can't remember which one. Hope that helps.

 

I like them too...

 

 

 

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No problem. I spent the day watching a couple of guys remove two 30' oak trees in my front yard. The drought we are having got to both of them. I was too depressed to work on the Z afterwards. Mostly because I'm going to miss the trees but also because I had to drop a serious chunk of change to have them removed. :(

 

Anyway, the fuel lines are coming along nicely. The last couple flares, the ones above the differential are almost done. I can get my hand in there to twist "surface prep tool" but its going slow because I can't get much pressure on it.

 

The plan is to pressure test the fuel system overnight this Thursday. If it holds then it's time to weld up a wastegate dump pipe. If I don't have any luck doing it myself I'll take it somewhere and have it done.

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The fuel system is finally sorted out (fingers crossed). I still have a few things to do before the first start. I attempted to weld up a wastegate dump tube but failed miserably, nothing but cold welds. Even with the heat turned all the way up it wouldn't penetrate .060 thick tube wall. My guess is that the 10 year old Century 130 I'm using is crap. It's time to upgrade. I've been scanning Craigslist for a reasonably priced used Lincoln or Miller. In the mean time I'm going to have it welded. That will allow me to at least start the engine and possibly drive it to a muffler shop. Other items include the fuel evaporator tank, clutch master and slave cylinder, speedo cable and half shafts. The evap tank needs a larger vent fitting welded to it and other smaller nipples sealed up. I found a radiator shop to do that work. The master and slave cylinders are installed by need to be bled. The McKinney transmission mount is blocking access to the speedo gear mount. I'll have to cut the mount or maybe just loosen it to get the gear in there. Lastly are the half shafts. I received a set of the shortened shafts from Jon Mortensen's group buy. These things are very stout. The axles will explode before the shafts break. :P I'm off tomorrow. I'll take some pictures as I go.

Edited by rossman

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No, not yet. I'm still closing out a few unfinished tasks. I have been working on it a little bit at a time. I usually get up around 5:00 AM and work on it a couple hours before getting ready for work. My weekends are consumed by Cub Scouts, soccer, yard work, home repairs, social events, whatever my wife needs me to do, blah, blah, blah...

 

Things I've done since my last post...

 

  1. Drilled a timing synch hole in the zxt CAS disk.
  2. Blanked a bunch of the nipples from the fuel evaporator tank and brazed on an new 1/2NPT fitting for a vent tube
  3. Had a wastegate dump pipe fabricated from 1.5" stainless tube
  4. Sanded down and painted the fan shroud
  5. Cut off a portion of the transmission mount that was blocking the speedometer cable drive. When I went to install the mechanical drive, I found out that the drive I previously ordered had was wrong (too short) so I ordered another one from Courtesy Nissan. It should be here next week. In the mean time I re-installed the stock Z32 electrical drive to fill the hole.
  6. Modified the half shafts to prevent bottoming during suspension movement. They were bound up just installing them with the suspension unloaded. Replacing the stock z31 shafts with JMortensen's shortened shafts fixed the problem. Still need to install boot clamps on the shaft side of the boots. Before I install the clamps I want to compress the suspension under the car's weight and let the boot relax so it's not stressed in the nominal state.
  7. Modified the stock 280z fan shroud to fit the AZC radiator. This involved lots of cutting, grinding, filling with epoxy putty, sanding and drilling. Everything but the surface finish turned out good. I got a little crazy sanding down the surface to remove some of the glossy surface in preparation for painting. I painted it with Bumper Black. You can see sanding scratches but it's flat and so it doesn't stand out too much. I'm calling it done for now.

 

Tasks I need to complete prior to first start...

 

  1. Install the fan. Have to remove the intercooler pipe behind the fan to get access to the fan bolts. I discovered this maintenance issue this morning. No big deal, it's just something I have to deal with given the cramped space in front of the engine.
  2. Load my Wolf ECU map. I used KTMs L6 map and modified it slightly for my application. Thanks Bo! The main difference between his set-up and mine is the injector size and my lack of aux inputs/outputs. I will add more inputs/outputs (boost control, idle air control, etc.) in time but I'm keeping it simple until I get it running well.
  3. Prime/fill the engine/pump with oil
  4. Fill the transmission with oil
  5. Fill the differential with oil
  6. Fill the tank with gas
  7. Run the fuel tank vent line (need to get 1/2" ID tube too)
  8. Fill the cooling system with water and Water Wetter. No antifreeze. It rarely freezes here and the garage is climate controlled.
  9. Gap the spark plugs
  10. I'm sure there is more...

 

Hopefully I can attempt the first start this weekend. If it doesn't happen then the next opportunity will be the weekend of the 31st. I have a spring break vacation and Cub Scout camping the two weekends in between.

Edited by rossman

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I FINALLY got the

! :mparty:

 

Many thanks go to RTz for his help and setting up the ECU. I couldn't have done it without his help.

 

It's running very rich. This weekend I'm going to hook up the LC-1 and start leaning her out.

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Yes it is! She actually moved under her own power today too, not much, just in and out of the garage. Baby steps :)

 

I fixed an issue with the fuel system today. At first I noticed that the A1000 pump seemed excessively noisy. I thought "man, there is no way I can deal with this kind of noise." Then when I installed the pump speed controller and it took almost 11 volts to keep the pressure @ 43 PSI. The spec called out 10 volts max. So, I called Aeromotive to see if they had any ideas. The technical guy asked me to take some pictures of the system. The first thing he spotted was the right angle fittings attached to the tank. They were the "forged" type of fitting not the bent tube. They are drilled internally leaving sharp edges at the intersection. He said they are known to cause cavitation. So, on his recommendation I replaced them with XRP bent tube type fittings. Now the pump noise is considerably lower (still loud but tolerable) and it only takes 8.5 volts to keep the pressure up to spec. Problem solved.

 

Also picked up a set of S2000 seats. Got a pretty good deal off CL. They are much nicer than the Miata seats I was going to use.

 

picsay-1334273507.jpg

 

I still have quite a bit to do before she is road worthy.

 

1) Fix a pretty bad oil leak at the rear of the pan. Snugging the bolts helped a little but I'm thinking the pan may have to come off. For now I'll just keep adding oil. The pan holds 8 quarts so it'll take a while to go dry.

 

2) Adjust and bleed the clutch. It starts to engage right off the stop. Not sure it this is normal. I haven't driven her with this setup.

 

3) Fabricate an exhaust system. I got all of the 3" mandrel bent pipe on hand. Need to get a muffler and resonator. I want her to be very quiet. Any suggestions?

 

That's it for now.

Edited by rossman

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Okay, now it's actually firing on all six cylinders!

 

 

In the previous video it was only firing on 1, 3 and 5. The sequence was off...n00b mistake :).

 

Thanks again to Ron for putting up with all my questions.

 

Of course, as soon as I get it running, I'm taking it down. I'm getting a degree wheel, piston stop and extra dial gauge to set the crank and cam timing more precisely. While it's down I'm also going to have the oil pump drive gear pinned.

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Get her tuned, cleaned up and log some miles!

 

I'm working on it. Still need to fabricate a new tranny mount and exhaust pipe. The custom Z32 tranny mount I purchased sticks down exactly where I want to tuck the 3" exhaust pipe :(. I'm learning to weld so it's going to take a little bit of time.

 

This past week I set the engine timing with a degree wheel. I used a 7" degree wheel so it could be done with the engine in-car. Timing is now spot-on (<1 degree).

 

Today I got my pinned distributor/oil pump drive back from my machinist friend. In stock form, the gear is just pressed on the shaft, relying on friction to maintain timing. The roll pin will safeguard against relative motion between the two parts. Movement between the two parts will result in uncontrolled timing changes and possible catastrophic detonation.

 

picsay-1336056581.jpg

 

Thanks again to Ron (RTz) for the tips on engine timing and dizzy pinning!

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I'm working on it. Still need to fabricate a new tranny mount and exhaust pipe. The custom Z32 tranny mount I purchased sticks down exactly where I want to tuck the 3" exhaust pipe :(. I'm learning to weld so it's going to take a little bit of time.

 

This past week I set the engine timing with a degree wheel. I used a 7" degree wheel so it could be done with the engine in-car. Timing is now spot-on (<1 degree).

 

Today I got my pinned distributor/oil pump drive back from my machinist friend. In stock form, the gear is just pressed on the shaft, relying on friction to maintain timing. The roll pin will safeguard against relative motion between the two parts. Movement between the two parts will result in uncontrolled timing changes and possible catastrophic detonation.

 

picsay-1336056581.jpg

 

Thanks again to Ron (RTz) for the tips on engine timing and dizzy pinning!

Excellent work! Keep it up.

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I finished the main exhaust today. It's made from 3" dia, 16 gauge mandrel bent 304 stainless tube. It is installed on the car now too. Still need to plumb in the wastegate and add a hanger in at the end of the transmission. The wastegate just has an straight screamer pipe for now.

 

IMG_5500.jpg

 

Installed an Innovate AFR gauge so I can start tuning.

 

Need to get insurance and finish the Honda wiper motor upgrade so I get her inspected.

 

It won't be long before she's cruizing down the road! :D

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