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LSx powered Z-32.... GO!!!!


BRAAP

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I see you're looking at the Autokraft oil pan, but have you seen this:

 

Moroso Oil Pan: http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=17002 (bottom of the page)

 

20140_part.jpg

 

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It looks like it may clear it JUST BARELY. (Maybe a little banging required)

The top is just under 2", and the sump is 9 11/16".

 

COOL! Hmmm.... very nice.

Overall, this pan looks like the closest/best fitting, "off the shelf" pan yet!

 

Thanks for the heads up, very much appreciated. :2thumbs:

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As mentioned previously, nothing real big to update. Had a few nibbles on the VG30DE power train, nothing serious, yet. I “think” I have it priced to sell, i.e. low for what is being offered, maybe just the wrong time in the market? shrug.gif

 

 

After a short bit of research on exhaust manifolds, I decided to get a pair of Vette LS6 crate motor take off exhaust manifolds. Never ran, price was very right! Will they fit my LSx Z-32 conversion? Dunno, but I hope they do. If they don’t I’m sure I’ll have no problem selling them for what I paid. If they do fit, I will finesse the exterior of them removing the casting flash and the heat shield mounting bosses, casting marks, etc and have them Ceramic coated, probably in Turbo Black. The reason I am so tickled over these manifolds is one, they are cast iron, less prone to manifold gasket leaks, two, from a flow standpoint, these are as or at least almost as good as a tri-Y shorty header. The interior surface is rough, not smooth like a header, but the primary diameters appear to be approx 1 5/8”- to possibly 1 ¾”? not quite round shaped, more oval shaped. All the merges are smooth fluid, no steps inside. They are very close to equal length and in a true tri-Y design. Not sure the "Tri-Y" design in of itself has much benefit, but if GM deemed it adequate for 405 OE HP in the LS6, then they should be more than adequate for my pesky little 5.3 sporting a Vette LS1 cam and LS1 intake, right? :wink: Fingers crossed they actually fit. Weight wise, for cast iron they feel pretty light, though not doubt they are heavier than headers of this same length, just not enough heavier that I am bothered by it.

 

EMani1.jpg

 

EMani2.jpg

 

 

This pic of the back side shows where the primaries and secondaries pair up in the casting.

EMani3.jpg

 

This pic is looking up the collector. VERY difficult to make out in the picture, but you can just see the primary merge for the forward pair and the merge for the secondaries. The merges look nice and clean. VERY nice casting…

InColl.jpg

Edited by BRAAP
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Mocked up the new fuel rails on the LS1 intake. By itself, a bit blingy for my taste. I might try some satin/textured black paint in the machined valleys on the fuel rails to help dissipate the bling factor a tad. We’ll see.

 

I built an O-ring plug for the EGR stove pipe. I used a PVC plumbing fitting, chucked up in the lathe, turned it down to just fit, then machined a groove for the O-ring. The EGR hole in the intake also has vertical ribs that the plugs sits on, as well as the step I machined on the top of the plug, i.e. it can’t get sucked in. :wink: I will then machine a piece of aluminum that will fill the void between the TB and runners and get bolted down over the top of the plug using the treaded insert beside the EGR hole, that will keep the plug from being pushed out, (you know, just incase of unnatural aspirations…) :wink: Might have something catchy etched/engraved into the aluminum cover.

 

int1.jpg

 

plg1.jpg

 

plg2.jpg

 

plgcvr.jpg

Edited by BRAAP
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The LSx exhaust manifolds are very good, actually. Most people don't see any real differences between them and shorty headers. That's why most go with long-tubes. They'll fit just fine on the 5.3L block I believe. Pretty much the same exact motor except slightly heavier and less displacement. Aside from that, I know that the LS6 heads and intake are direct bolt ons, so the exhaust should be as well.

 

My friends use 50 cent pieces to plug up the intake's EGR hole. Cheap part and easy to find. LOL! But it also looks kind of cool. But what you got there should work fine too.

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Got inspired to mock up these super-whiz-bang exhaust manifolds tonight. Stabbed the LS1 mock up block with one of my 5.3 cylinder heads in the Z-32 mock up mule tonight, attempted to drop in the Vette exhaust manifolds only to find the collector runs smack dab through the pinion gear of the rack. wall.gif

Shucks! mannagg.gif That didn’t work. I really REALLY REALLY wanted to use these exhaust manifolds. For giggles I tried the truck exhaust manifolds. Again no go! The collectors exit just touching the frame rails and the driver side collector passes right smack dab in the middle of the steering shaft! I even tried swapping the Vette manifolds left for right, i.e. "forward dump", just incase I could make that work! NOPE! Crashes with the cross member. uhm.gif

 

Here is the Vette manifold, driver side. The collector is sitting on top of the rack, needs to go “down” approx 3” from this position. Picture below that from underneath the trans tunnel, manifold sitting on the rack!

 

Vettetop.jpg

 

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****************

 

Here is the truck exhaust manifold loosely hanging on the bolts, needs to tilt outwards a little, none the less, collector dumps through the steering shaft which is disconnected in the pic. (MAGENTA arrows linking rack to shaft)

Truckex.jpg

 

 

That darn Rack and firewall!?!?!?... I’m starting to reconsider the notion of saving the firewall, admitting defeat and realizing … %#*&$%@#...

 

 

Back to the drawing board…

drawing_board.jpg

Edited by BRAAP
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If you aren't dead set on the T-56 others have used a mid plate to adapt the Z32 trans to the LS1 block. The Z32 FS5R30A has been pushed well beyond 600WHP and has proven it self. Granted it's no T-56 it give you the ability to keep the stock trans tunnel, and you can hug the trans with the exhaust and get around the steering rack.

 

I have also been toying with the idea of a Pinto style manual steering rack in the Z32.

 

Oh and the regular LS1 corvette manifolds are made out of high nickel steel, and they can be cut, welded & reshaped.

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The Z-32 5 speed is more than adequate for mild to moderate LSx. As you mentioned, retaining that trans would cut down some of the other little projects of such a conversion, such as driveline, speedo drive, shifter, etc. It wont solve any of the firewall or rack & pinion issues we are struggling with. The LSx engine, (if attached to the Z-32 trans), would still sit in the same fore/aft location as I have already choosen with the T-56. This position coincidentally shares the same bell housing mating surface position, fore and aft within the engine bay.

 

 

Thank you for the tip on the early Vette manifolds. In my manifold research, I had found ’97-’99 Vette “Y” body manifolds were double wall stainless. To be honest, if I were to go through the trouble of hacking up stock manifolds and welding them back together, I would just start from scratch and build my own using the pre-made LSx header flanges available for $60

 

http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/106259/CSP2385?osCsid=39612603050dd763f7f9e32511ab61af

 

Ex-Flng.jpg

 

 

I am also eyeballing other OE manifolds right now. Vette LS2 is similar Tri-Y design, but MUCH shorter overall. I don’t think it is short enough though as the there would not be enough room to get the header pipe/collector turned to clear the rack.

GTO manifolds might be an option as well as the CTS-v manifolds. Here are the OE manifolds my research has uncovered thus far that also have my attention;

 

CADDY CTS-V;

Caddyexh.jpg

 

GTO; (one is sort of a Tri-Y, the other is just a manifold, exit is more horizontal :2thumbs: )

05GTO5.jpg

 

05GTO3.jpg

 

05GTO1.jpg

 

LS2 Vette;

LS2Vette.jpg

 

F-body;

98-02LS1F-bod.jpg

 

Here is Vette, F-bod, and truck mani’s;

131_0406_eng_13_z.jpg

 

Here are the double wall steel '97-'99 Vette manifolds 1fastkingcab mentioned;

97-99Vette.jpg

Edited by BRAAP
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The LS2 vette style may be a good bet. Looks like they'd flow OK and they drop right off. The question would be what that collector is hanging over. If they're high enough, you should be able to clear everything and run the piping higher until you clear the rack.

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The LS2 vette style may be a good bet. Looks like they'd flow OK and they drop right off. The question would be what that collector is hanging over. If they're high enough, you should be able to clear everything and run the piping higher until you clear the rack.

 

I'm thinking the same thing. I've got my eyes open for set. Let me know if you stumble across any for sale...

 

Paul

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I'm not sure when I'm going to start my project now. My finances just got all screwed up and my priorities just changed, but I'm still going to do this (hopefully in the next couple of months... One day I'll get a break. LOL)

 

Meanwhile, I look forward to seeing how these manifolds workout. I'm still going to get that McLoud bellhousing and set the motor back towards the firewall instead of set forward, and I'm also thinking that moroso pan is the best bet either way since it's sump keeps the oil away from the crank. All in all, I'll likely be doing exactly what you're doing except with the motor a few inches further back.

 

I have my swap car now... It's actually my current car. It's blowing up coils suddenly. I know I can fix it quite easily, but at the same time, I don't want to invest money into a motor I'm not going to keep in the car anyway! LOL

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Crash,

Keep us posted. Hope you are able to jump back into the LSx soon!

 

Thank you for the link. bgiorno.gif Turns out the seller is WAY cool! picked up a pair of her LS2 exhaust manifolds! :2thumbs:

 

A little spoiler for those following along.

With all the OE LSx goodies I have been acquiring, I will posting a LSx swappers guide. Really more of an addendum to the book pictured below. The book is great, but is definitely geared more towards swapping into 60’-‘70’s domestics, touching on the Vorshlag BMW conversion and a Jag conversion, (no love for the Z car or FD, etc). The book “mentions” the different oil pans and even mentioned the word exhaust manifolds a couple times but is pretty weak in that department, so I plan to supplement that here on the forum with specs, dimensions etc, mocked up on the LS1.

Will be a few weeks to month or so out, stay tuned…

 

 

Courtesy of CarTechBooks

ACF2225.gif

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This is a great thread, love the attention to detail.

 

On the question of the cam lobe failures, could be the oil. For emission compliance purposes modern oils have been stripped of a lot of their additives, which were originally used to protect cam lobes etc. In the VG30DET race engine I use a dual purpose diesel/petrol oil which has all the goodies in it still, Shell Rimula Super 10W40.

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Awesome. I was just looking at those manifolds again today. If they work out, those are the ones I'll be going with as well. I'll have a few more options - manifold-wise - because I'm sitting the motor back further, but the LS2 Vette manifolds look perfect. The only thing that really needs to be done is to plug up that EGR hold in the center of the collector. (Or are those the O2 bungs?)

 

I'll keep you posted as well on my project as soon as I can kick it off. First thing's first; handle the financial crisis over here. :D I'm hoping I can start next month. I got my fingers crossed. :)

 

260DET, yeah, this thread is only my daily-visit check list. :)

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Crash,

That hole is the O2 sensor bung. Can easily be plugged if you choose not to run an O2. Threads are 18mm x 1.5mm. The Old FORD large spark plugs are commonly used as a plug if the O2 is deleted. :wink:

 

 

260DET,

The cam failure I’m pretty sure was not oil related. As I understand it, the lower concentrations of ZDDP in modern oils mostly affects older designed power plants with a flat tappet style cam-lifter interface. Modern roller valve trains are not as susceptible to that sort of failure, which as I understand it, is one of the reason the industry has been able to reduce the Zinc levels.

 

Add to that the 5.3 and 6.0 truck engine are the ones experiencing his failure on a more regular basis than the LS1-6, etc. One theory is that one of the molds of the lifter trays has the lifter twisted, i.e. it is not aligned 90 degrees to the cam lobe as it should be. #10 on the tray and my 5.3 had two of those trays, the lifter was definitely not aligned true!

 

For those interested the Vortec cam failure analyses, read along here;

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1075148-cam-lobe-failure-analyses.html

 

Align1.jpg

 

Align2.jpg

Edited by BRAAP
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Gotcha... I'm only getting rid of the post-cat O2s... The pre-cat O2s are really required to make the LS1 run right if you're not going carbureted. A/F is key to make the LS1 run top at all RPM (from my experience) so I'll likely be getting a wideband gauge as well.

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