Jump to content
HybridZ
lowrider

Lowrider's 260z

Recommended Posts

Next on the agenda I needed timing control with this holset, so I figured I would hook up an 8 pin gm hei to hold me off until I went edis. But low and behold, Im apparently inept of wiring the output mods for the hei with ms2 extra. So I finnaly bit the bullet and picked up the trigger wheel from an escort, the vr sensor, and the module from an explorer. I took the dampener off of my L26 and chucked it up in the lathe, Took down the front pulley. Fit it to a .005 interference fit with the trigger wheel. I Then made a bracket to fit the vr sensor. Turned out well, I mounted the module infront of the battery. The coil was mounted on the firewall next to the battery. It turned out really clean.

 

Photo201.jpg

Photo202.jpg

Photo214.jpg

Photo213.jpg

Photo212.jpg

Photo211.jpg

Photo209.jpg

Photo205.jpg

edis1.jpg

edis2.jpg

edis3.jpg

edis4.jpg

 

 

And a video of the car at 15psi: I was short shifting at around 4500 to avoid boost creep passed 15psi.

 

But as in the words of bigphil "my car's name is trouble". I destroyed another flat-top piston at 16psi...

 

But up until then, It ran like a scolded dog! I had been tuning with the new holset and my edis system. My ignition map is really conservative and AFR’s spot on. I didn’t hear any detonation; of course It doesn’t mean it wasn’t there. The only indication that something was wrong was a little bit of a miss at idle and a few puffs of blue smoke (which I thought was my turbo’s oil seal).I limped it home, and the compression test told all; 120 psi across the board except for number 6, which was a meager 45 psi. Added some oil to the cylinder and retried, got 90 psi. I’m thinking the ring lands broke again.

 

Im considering swapping in the N42 that I have in the shed, topped with my p79 head for the time being so It will be a little more forgiving at pressure.

 

Next plan of action:

I have an N42/N47 motor sitting in the shed that came out of a running 280z. If the leak down test proves it to still be good, I’m going to put my p79 on the N42 and slap it in the car for the time being.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great build thread man. You should really make yourself a little clamp/bolt on mic and headphone setup to listen for knock...even if you like replacing pistons :P I use a chassis ear but you can make one just as good for not much money at all. You won't beleive how good it works.

 

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Detonation-Detection-and-Recording/A_2717/article.html

 

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/95756-diy-electronic-detonation-detection-det-cans-under-25-dollars.html

 

http://www.tercelreference.com/articles/knock_detection_listening_device/knock_detection_listening_device.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great build thread man. You should really make yourself a little clamp/bolt on mic and headphone setup to listen for knock...even if you like replacing pistons :P I use a chassis ear but you can make one just as good for not much money at all. You won't beleive how good it works.

 

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Detonation-Detection-and-Recording/A_2717/article.html

 

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/95756-diy-electronic-detonation-detection-det-cans-under-25-dollars.html

 

http://www.tercelreference.com/articles/knock_detection_listening_device/knock_detection_listening_device.html

Thanks! I’m definitely going to make one! I don’t really want to have any more broken pistons... they are just an inconvenience. Thanks for the links as well!

 

Your car sounded great before it blew up. Makes me want to ditch my NA L28 and get started on the L28ET sitting in my garage.

Thanks. lol You should! Once you feel that turbo power the NA just wont cut it!

 

 

And just for an update, Im going through the n42 long block that I have, in prep to accept the p79, holset, and all of the other goodies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I forgot to update! My-bad!

I went through the n42 removed the main and rod bearings on 1&6. The bearings looked new, I plastigauged them and both ends came within spec! everything else was a matter of swapping parts from one motor to the other. I replaced the timing chain and sat the p79 head on, and everything just fell together from there! I ported the wastegate on the holset more; to the point where it will barely seal. Out of curiosity I took the piston out of number 6 on the flat top motor. The compression ring fell apart in my hand... So it wasn't a ringland!

 

I got the motor back in the car with help from nate_82zx. The next day she was running!

Started tuning the following day. The port job helped, but the holset still has boost creep. I'm going to end up going with an external wastegate, hopefully sometime during the summer.

Any-who, I got a full day of tuning in, before the weather took a dump on me.

 

Then all of a sudden spring came! This week has been beautiful and I've been taking full advantage! I just about have the car's ve-table tuned with a rough timing-table. It pulls like a mule at 15psi! The lower compression is noticeable, you can definitely tell when your off boot.

 

And so I don't leave you hanging, I know how boring these post are without pictures. lol

 

IMG_0530.jpg

 

IMG_0528.jpg

 

IMG_0523.jpg

 

IMG_0520.jpg

 

IMG_0518.jpg

 

IMG_0516.jpg

 

IMG_0513.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The port job helped, but the holset still has boost creep. I'm going to end up going with an external wastegate, hopefully sometime during the summer.

 

What kind of AFR are you running in the ~10psi up area? A lot of people tend to run a 'safe' tune really rich and that can cause boost creep in some cases, especially with larger turbine wheels. Another thing is that with a richer charge in the chamber, the burn happens faster so what might be a conservative timing setting for 11.5:1 afr could be closer to knock at 10.0:1 AFR.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What kind of AFR are you running in the ~10psi up area? A lot of people tend to run a 'safe' tune really rich and that can cause boost creep in some cases, especially with larger turbine wheels. Another thing is that with a richer charge in the chamber, the burn happens faster so what might be a conservative timing setting for 11.5:1 afr could be closer to knock at 10.0:1 AFR.

Well, my AFR's are really rich. Its a consistent 10-10.5:1 up till 12 psi, hits a really rich spot of around 9.5:1, then goes back to 10:1. I haven't gotten to tuning up top yet, so far I have been dialing in my cruse, and IAT corrections. Hopefully I will have a chance to get the positive pressure region tuned by the weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A month later... And the motor is still alive! Shocking given my track record! During the short period of time that the weather was nice, I daily drove the car. The cruise and part throttle ve tables are spot on. I still have the timing roughed in and very conservative. I had the chance to tune the positive pressure region too, but I don't exactly have it dialed in. The car was pulling 23mpg on dd duty including some on boost pulls. I couldn't be happier!

 

Otherwise I haven't made much headway on the car. I did fab up a "cold air" intake that draws from the driver side brake duct in the front valence. Other than that I have been doing a few odd jobs for nate_82zx. I shaved a non webbed n42, along with put some finishing touches on a fuel rail extrusion for him, pretty uneventful. The z currently awaits better weather so I can drive the darn thing!

 

"cold air" intake

IMG_0632.jpg

 

IMG_0634.jpg

 

IMG_0631.jpg

 

Nate's intake

IMG_0536.jpg

 

IMG_0537.jpg

 

IMG_0538.jpg

 

IMG_0539.jpg

 

IMG_0546.jpg

 

IMG_0548.jpg

 

IMG_0550.jpg

 

IMG_0565.jpg

 

IMG_0569.jpg

 

IMG_0590.jpg

 

IMG_0592.jpg

 

IMG_0594.jpg

 

IMG_0596.jpg

 

IMG_0606.jpg

 

IMG_0609.jpg

 

 

fuel rail

 

IMG_0643.jpg

 

IMG_0649.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello, Hello! Update time!

I had bought a Apexi turbo timer off of eBay, and finally received it from Hongkong. Install went fairly smoothly, I disliked the idea of splicing the ignition switch to install the timer so I raided a few late 70's pickups in the local pull-a-part for some connectors that I could make an adapter harness out of. Made the harness, and mounted the control unit in front of the map light. I ran into a problem with the ignition switch engaging the starter. I did some searching and ran across this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84673-ignition-switch-starting-circuit-turbo-timer-install/page__pid__932223#entry932223 . I ended up installing a relay that cut the wire to the starter while the turbo timer was running, the details can be found at the thread I just linked. None the less, on to pictures.

IMG_0675.jpg

 

IMG_0677.jpg

 

IMG_0668.jpg

 

IMG_0665.jpg

 

turbotimerwiring-1.jpg

 

Other than that, I think I've found a solution to the boost creep! a 34mm internal wastegate flapper! A mere $30 and boost creep be gone, but I need the funds to buy it. lol However Its a more cost effective solution than going external. Till next time...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You would be correct, there was a recent thread that gave the dimensions of the ringland for the turbo and N/A flat-top pistons. The pistons are nearly identical for the exception of the pin height and the dish.

 

Well thanks! This thing is definitely my labor of love.

 

Ok, since I haven't updated in a while I'll get everyone up to speed. I installed a set of crx seats into the car. Fabricate a few brackets, use the datsun sliders, and we are good to go. I love these seats! The bolsters fit me so well and are so supportive! Pictures:

Photo103.jpg

Photo102.jpg

Photo101.jpg

 

 

Anyhow, this Sunday was quite interesting... I was running some errands in the car, just enjoying myself, when as a pull onto a side street I hear a "ting ting ting". I didn’t think much of it just sounded like a rock hitting my IC piping. I knew something was wrong when I no longer built boost... I pulled over immediately checked everything no blown joints everything is in its place. I limped the car home, when I get there I take the filter off of my turbo to find that my compressor wheel is not spinning. I thought the turbo was toast; I proceeded to pull the sucker off to find out what went wrong. When I got the turbo off I spun the compressor wheel, somehow it was free again... while I was taking the downpipe off so I could checkout the turbine a piece of metal falls out of the turbine inlet. "The turbo is screwed" to the contrary I’m one lucky SOB. The piece of metal that came out was just small enough to reach the blades, yet when it made contact it wedged the fins instead of grinding the ever-living hell out of them. The turbine was fine, now to find out where the metal came from. THE EXHAUST LINERS! On this discovery I pulled the intake and exhaust manifolds to see which cylinder it was and if removing the liner was necessary. I found that the number two exhaust liner was so loose it was rattling. Pulled that sucker to find a gap where the missing piece fit. Upon more inspection none of the other liners were loose of fatigued so I left them in for the time being. I smoothed out the port and reassembled. I know this is far from optimal but the car is currently my only transportation so I needed it running ASAP. So on to pictures!

 

Photo107.jpg

Photo106.jpg

Photo105.jpg

Photo108.jpg

Photo109.jpg

Photo110.jpg

Photo116.jpg

Photo114.jpg

Photo113.jpg

Photo112.jpg

Photo115.jpg

 

 

Ahhh, the port it as you drive technique ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dude u got skillz is their anyway you sell me some? lol this car is coming along great at first i went through the pics and didn't like the color too much but i learned to appreciate all the hard work you put into it, it's gonna be one fast cockaroach

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh you know it! I'm just waiting for the other 5 liners to fall out to increase the flow sone more. ;)

 

Thanks rolla for the kind words! I'll sell you some but it doesn't come cheap! It's a project on a college students budget, so it takes a while to come together. Lol Eventually I'm going to paint it however it's going back to factory brown Lol

Edited by lowrider

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very luck on the liner and turbo.

 

Got to watch the water with you intake so low. No rain driving or very little.

I found this out the hard way the other day. When I left home there was no chance of rain, started down the interstate and it started pouring! I didn't notice any significant difference until I had to get in boost to pass someone... It fell on its face. I plan on making a front splitter that extends to the engine cross member. When i do, the filter is going to be boxed in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man, I've neglected my thread! I haven't done much to the car since last time. I replaced the rear wheel bearings, following their disagreement with the lateral loads that my new tires put on them. Sucker left me stuck in NC on memorial day weekend... the two hour wait for the wrecker was not fun. I since decided that I am going to put AC on the car. I figure a few creature comforts are always a good thing. I found all of the AC part attached to a 280z in the local pull-a-part. Snatched everything I needed for a cool $80. I replaced the control panel with the 280 piece along with installing the evaporator. I also in my plundering found an IMSA 3 piece spoiler in another local "junk" yard. Bought it for $50, after a rattle can paint job It looks like new. I also wrinkle painted my turbo valve cover, along with sanding the raised portion and letters! looks shweet! I guess I'll quit boring you with text, and just cut to the pictures.

IMG_0809.jpg

 

IMG_0810.jpg

 

IMG_0812.jpg

 

IMG_0813.jpg

 

IMG_0829.jpg

 

IMG_0827.jpg

 

IMG_0835.jpg

 

IMG_0836.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! Some-what of an update, I bought a stage 4 Competition Clutch from 240hoke. I'm anticipating the destruction of tires?! I also bought a synapse synchronic blow off valve. In conjunction with books, talk about spending a pay check really quickly! I plan on posting picture when all of the goodies arrive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×