Going to try to clean up this old thread......the "new forum software" of a few years ago change seems to work better now.
Two years ago, I bought a M30 with a spun rod bearing and just went to a junkyard and got another cap and used bearing so I could move it around without it throwing a rod and ruining the block.
So......I suspended the engine on a sling I made from a 4x4 with some chains and large eye bolts with long threaded shanks so I could do the measurements needed to attempt a VG30et since I have every part to do so.
In the mean time, I bought another crank but soon found the VG30et swap would not be a fun road to go down because of the already too steep steering shaft angles as delivered from the factory to the point that the u-joints are almost binding which would be made worse by trying to fit a Z31 turbo crossmember........and I wasn't interested in laying down the rack....which again makes the angles more steep.
The other alternative is making one's own turbo manifolds to relocate the turbo and possibly losing power steering or A/C.
I got discouraged and it sat for 2 years.
Upon getting fired and my landlord putting the house up for sale, I needed to make this car mobile so I just installed what I had lying around which is a L28et and a built 3n71b.
I had already converted it to a front sump by relocating the oil pickup and fitting a front sump oil pan from a first generation maxima (l24e) as well as drilling a new dipstick hole (not in the front blank dipstick boss because it goes through an oil galley which is drilled deeper in the rear sump iteration of the L28.........unless you want to shove a plug down the passage to the proper depth).
Yes it will receive the proper studs at each end of the manifold.
I also own a 1984 rear wheel drive maxima which is similar to the M30 in many dimensions and I also had spare engine mount brackets as well as the sump because this L28et was supposed to go in that car but I just bolted turbo manifolds onto the stock L24e and drove it 50,000 miles that way.
It's for sale on this site.
The maxima mounts were perfect for front to rear location but had the engine 2 inches too high so I found that S30 or S130 mounts would mount the engine (kind of) closer to the proper height and had the proper front to back location........but not ready for prime time.
Time to cut and weld the S30 mounts which seem damn weak as delivered from factory compared to the S130 (280zx) mount but the tranny mount is what is designed to combat front/rear movement.
Right side is actually a S130 mount but they are same dimension but with extra bracing in between.
Turns out is is a lot more of a pain in the ass and requries mucho time on the grinder but I was able to drill a hole through both the stock portion and my welded pad which will have a bolt in case my welds turn out be metal caulking (not likely as I used a torch to preheat the work area)
I cut them shorter and re-angeled them rather than molest the crossmember since I may want to fit the soon to be rebuilt VG30.
I do have a spare crossmember that might be for sale soon.
Left side mount made from s30 (no webbing between legs).
On the left mount, I cut a slot in the added pad and fed the front "leg and foot" through it for an extra measure of safety should my welds suck and break.
I would have done the right side that way but I cut the wrong leg off and had to end up cutting both.....Doh!!
If I don't mount something to the extra bit of pad, I will probably cut of the extra bit but it does clear the 280zx a/c compressor.
Next was my ghetto turbo drain I have put on many a car but this time I actually had the engine out of the car when I installed it.....but it was designed to do while the engine is in the car without removing pan.
Details on this turbo drain are on this post link below.
Then it was time to mount a 3n71b tranny which isn't longer than the stock tranny but the bellhousing has to move back a few inches to restore stock L engine clearance to firewall which means the tailshaft also sits further back.
Ultimately, the car will sport a FS5R30 tranny using Austin Hoke's adapter but time and money dictate I not spend the cash on a flywheel and clutch parts at this time.
Now to contemplate whether to just put the 280zx turbo yoke on the front of the two piece stock m30 shaft that is designed to work with an "extra long nose" (m30 diff has 3/4 inch longer pinion shaft) r200 but I would rather swap in a standard length long nose since I would have a hard time finding another M30 diff. in case it fails and would have to send out the driveshaft yet again if I swapped in a standard long nose later.
That one shiny bolt is ground such that it fits like a glove into a countersunk hole.
Yes I will be tying the two individual mounts together on that one side........someday if necessary.
More pics to follow of clearance between s30 fan/clutch assembly and stock radiator as well as 280zx turbo radiator which seems to fit.
My plan is to run a 1987 300zx turbo ecu first since I have one and an adapter made from the connector of a m30 ecu and 300zx harness plugs but it will eventually run on a late VG single cam engine'd nissan quest or pathfinder ECU in the hopes that I can fool an emissions inspector (if I move to an inspection state or Obama has his way) by blowing clean readings and the car looking stock underhood with no shiny pipes or racer boy looking stuff.
Another benefit of those late vg30e ecus from a quest is that they are obdII.
I have not cut anything on the car itself other than the stock exhaust pipe just after it collects though I will cut the harness since I have a spare.
The stock 280zx turbo turbo elbow/downpipe clears the steering shaft like the car was made for it.
Yes that O2 adapter is bolted using the bolt holes from the heat shield and guess what?.......they aren't metric but instead are size 10 with the fine 32 threads per inch pitch.
Good luck getting them out of any 280zx elbow you have without snapping them off but I got lucky.
Yes, my hand is wrapped around the steering shaft between it and the turbo elbow but the egr is not as close to the firewall as the picture makes it to be.......plenty of clearance for all of the 280zx turbo hardware.
Better pic of bay.
So far, every part on the car is genuine nissan except for the brackets for the tranny, the adapter for the 02 sensor, and a few hose clamps.
I will be lowering the engine another inch but it will require a slight denting to clear the front sway bar when suspension is hanging and fabricating a custom downpipe which turns back sooner than the factory setup to keep the exhaust system tucked up clean.
It's all labor and has cost me nothing since I had these parts laying around from an aborted Z31 turbo project and the maxima turbo project.
Edited by HowlerMonkey, 08 January 2017 - 10:07 AM.