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New Dyno Numbers


MONZTER

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OK so I made a really bad video of my car tonight. its dark and you can’t see much, but you can hear how it sounds I rev it like an idiot and drive like a fool. I know, I know, I usually save it for the track. It was some low traffic areas. You can kinda see the tach and that it doesn’t have much problem going past 6500 to the redline of 7700, but our West Coast tachs may be optimistically calibrated to read higher than it actually is by at least 30% HAHAH just kidding:icon12:

Enjoy

MonZter

Sounds like it's going past 7000, but that stock tach ain't cutting it for accuracy. You ought to upgrade. The engine sounds great. I just can't get my head around why that cam sucks so bad for everyone else but works so good for you. Are you running it 15 degrees retarded or something???

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In the video you can hear it hit the rev limiter for a sec, so that 7700. I know what you mean about the tach, but I just cant part with the old school original look. When I degreed it in it came out to match the card. I set it straight up

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Sounds delicious! I believe a 206hp L24 can be had. Your preparation supports those numbers and everything. The 240 in our vintage racing club has a 250hp motor in it so a gain of 50hp from that bumped up compression and race fuel makes sense. The responsiveness of your motor is REALLY nice. Hell, I may have to start building up my spare l24 block and attempt those figures... However, I would probably hound on the motor daily like you did in your video, things probably wouldn't last too too long.

 

By the way, nice job on making feel like a boo with my 3.1L probably making the same amount of power. >_<

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Are you talking about the radiator cap?

yes I was, I forgot to check "quote message in reply" on the new quick reply feature.

 

Strike that, I checked the box that time and it STILL failed to quote your post in my quick reply. New software; bugs; c'est la vie.

 

as for your car... *blink*twitch*lift*jaw*off*ground*

 

me likey. can't wait to listen to that vid with the volume cranked higher :trippen:

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Man I can't wait to get my little 2.4 going and i hope it sounds nearly that good. It would be interesting to see you put that car on the drag strip just to see if all those numbers equate to a decent time on the 1/4 mile. Sorry if its been asked already, but what flywheel are you running?

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Sounds great in the video Jeff!

 

 

 

Judging by how quickly it revs, he's probably a paper plate. Maybe a Frisbee.

 

 

Its a 7" dual disk ClutchMaster stage 6 with no springs, all alumium billet. The complete flywheel and clutch assembly weighs about 17 pounds.

 

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Its a 7" dual disk ClutchMaster stage 6 with no springs, all alumium billet. The complete flywheel and clutch assembly weighs about 17 pounds.

 

083105_008.JPG

 

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Now I really need the snow to melt so I can work on my car. And just think, the cops always harass me when I drive like that, I really need to find a track around here.

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You know, to build a trick flywheel, for a small pressure plate diameter there are ways. One way is to have a planatery (sp) gear drive, that engages and dissengages. Also, I have relocated starters to be closer to the center of the crank also. Its sorta pointless to have all of that flywheel hanging out there if you dont need it. Just putting that out there for consideration.

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You know, to build a trick flywheel, for a small pressure plate diameter there are ways. One way is to have a planatery (sp) gear drive, that engages and dissengages. Also, I have relocated starters to be closer to the center of the crank also. Its sorta pointless to have all of that flywheel hanging out there if you dont need it. Just putting that out there for consideration.

 

yes good stuff, and good ideas,

 

I have already talked to the clutch maker about using a smaller ring gear to decrease the diameter a bit more (the unit is custom anyway). Malvern racing use to make an offset starter nose for the Hitachi gear reduction units. Not a problem to make one up and this is what I will be doing for my other z. There are also ways of hogging out the aluminum from the area between the ring gear and the pressure plate like some of the reduced weight steel units

What is your take on too light of a flywheel for turbo cars and the engine slowing down too quick to keep the between shift boost lag down?

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I suspect that your motor will be making around 600 to the ground. On my twin cam, twin turbo car, I have a super light inertia setup, and I have no lag problems, related to that. I would suggest building it light as possible. When you have the boost come on, and it comes on hard when you are within that boost threshold zone, you dont want/need that extra inertia.

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