S30TRBO Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Well the plan was to make more progress on the Z. Chris "Rumnhammer" came over to give me a hand. Sunday's agenda was to: • Get the Taurus fan shroud trimmed down and installed on the radiator • Remove and replace the stock crank pulley with the Professional Products crank pulley that I modified with the hall sensor magnets for the SDS. Chris brought over a nice Pneumatic Reciprocating Saw to make easy work of trimming the plastic vice using a cut off wheel. We took measurements after the first test fit and we decided to take off about 3/4" off of the shroud to get it close where it needs to be. So then we had the bright idea of removing the radiator and modifying it that way. This means removing the oil cooler that's attached through the radiator. So instead of cutting the damn oil cooler zip ties we decided to remove the oil lines. Brute force failed, exacto knife failed, hey Chris hit it with that Pneumatic Reciprocating Saw that will make quick work of it. The result my new aluminum radiator now has a 3/16 cut in the cooling passage and an even smaller one below. MOTHERF&@*($#&$ I know I know Hindsight, is 20/20. Question: What are my options on fixing the radiator? • Can I have the slit TIG welded? • Re-core? • Buy New? So after that debacle I said let's move onto the crank pulley. Since the radiator was out this made for an easy job one would think! Using a crank puller we were able to get the stock crank pulley off with some finagling. I have a new Professional Products (NISMO re-make from MSA) crank pulley; it has been modified with magnets installed for the hall sensor for the SDS install. This was a replacement unit as when I bought the SDS the crank pulley (NISMO) was cracked along the keyway slot. We were unable to slide the new crank pulley on the end. I tried the old one as a test and it slid until before the keys perfectly. The new one we tried with a 2x6 and a rubber mallet and it was very hard. I do not really want to go through the trouble of getting another one, getting new magnets from SDS unless I absolutely need too. Question: • Can I have the center bore machined out using the old one as a template? • Has anyone had problems with Professional Products crank pulleys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Dang that sucks should be able to TIG her back, if not brazing it might be easier/safer with the thin cooling fins. I still think the crank pulley being cracked is crazy. I dont remember having to knock it on or anything. I also going to go out on a limb here and say that it probably wouldn't affect anything either. Since its a two piece pulley it isn't going to propagate through...I could be sketchy though. Boring it out should be cake, just get a good measurement off of your crank snout and machine it 1 or 2 thou over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Tim Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Some IT racers have reported the les expensive PP pulley to fail. We got one for our IT motor and are going to ditch it in favor of a different pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Did you not read the directions that came with the pully? It clearly states that its going to be a tight fit and that you might have to do some honing to get it to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 ... Boring it out should be cake, just get a good measurement off of your crank snout and machine it 1 or 2 thou over. Shouldn't that be under? You still want it to be a tight fit. I remember having the same issues and Tony D suggested about three to eight tenths of a thousandth interference: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123520&highlight=damper (see post 28) I'm planning on re-trying my damper install (hopefully by this weekend) now that I have my hood, IC and radiator out of the way. Good luck and let us know if you had to get it honed or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughdogz Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Did you not read the directions that came with the pully? It clearly states that its going to be a tight fit and that you might have to do some honing to get it to fit. Those instructions for for a SBC kind of engine though...not like a Nissan one with a keyway? [Edit: I was wrong about there not being keyways on the SBC snouts...but the instructions really don't say anything about their Nissan dampers] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Did you not read the directions that came with the pully? It clearly states that its going to be a tight fit and that you might have to do some honing to get it to fit. What directions, my box apparently missed that insertion during the shipping process. But thanks for checking. Anyways, if it's supposed to be a NISMO recreation wouldn't you think it would be close? Also after the crappy day I was having already it just added to my frustration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Measure the pulley and the crankshaft nose. Or just measure the pulley that came off and make the new one the same bore size. Of course you will need a hone or a lathe. Nothing is ever easy anymore! May better luck come your way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Dang that sucks should be able to TIG her back, if not brazing it might be easier/safer with the thin cooling fins. I still think the crank pulley being cracked is crazy. I dont remember having to knock it on or anything. I also going to go out on a limb here and say that it probably wouldn't affect anything either. Since its a two piece pulley it isn't going to propagate through...I could be sketchy though. Boring it out should be cake, just get a good measurement off of your crank snout and machine it 1 or 2 thou over. Hey Austin, Not only the crack but the gouging on the inside towards the outer edge. How did you put it on? Did you drive it in with the bolt then torque it? Once this is all done I'll still send it back to you for your wall of shame. Your old one slid on without effort until the keyway. Where as this one doesn't... I just called MSA and they said there was suppose to be instructions in the box and then he directed me to the website. Installation:Please note that machining tolerances are in the thousandths of inches. It is normal to have slight variances in the factory crankshaft mating surface diameter. While the vast majority of these dampers that we have sold fit as they are supposed to' date=' a small percentage have been difficult to seat due to those variances. If that is the case with your installation, your machinist may have to do very light machining to loosen the fit slightly. This is normally a very simple procedure for your machinist/rebuilder. Be certain first that both mating surfaces are free of paint, scrapes, and burrs. Again, this has only occurred on a handful of the dampers we have sold, and in almost every case has been easily remedied by a mechanic.[/quote'] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 ya mine had instructions that you might have to hone or sand the snout of the crank some to get it to fit. The BHJ dampners are the same way. You can also try sticking the dampner in the oven at 250-300 degrees F. and heat it up to expand the metal and then put a bag of ice on the snout to shrink it some and then put it on very quick like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I think jeffer949 has it right, honing would be your best bet. There were no instructions that came with the pulley to my recollection thoiugh...I bought it trough TEP so it could have been lost in the mix. I dont remember any difficulty installing the pulley at all. I usually slid it on and if i couldn't wiggle it on by hand I would tap it on with a rubber mallet. It was removed with a puller. DO NOT HEAT THE PULLEY - The magnets will be destroyed and they you get to do it all over again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I don't know what performance products idea of "honing" is but I think it will likely need to be machined, at least 10,000ths off. We tried a bit of emory paper to check for any burrs, etc, but without a proper micrometer to check the bore it was a no go. A crank pulley should slide on smoothy without resistance at least as far as the keyway, this was almost impossible to even get started on the crank nose. I'm pretty sure a compitant tig welder could fix the radiator with a quick zap, it wasn't that bad, but for Joe, the last thing he wanted to see was the radiator damaged. It just added to the stress level. Has anyone on here done the tauris fan on a race radiator? if so, what was your clearance on the shroud from the waterpump? I think next time, we'll do the wiring, since that has taken a back seat to the more mechanical things. I like the reply from PP, " a handful of pulleys may give difficulty"! Yeah, no kidding, I was hoping the pulley install would go smooth to help Joe feel better. I for one felt like a heel for nicking his radaitor. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 I don't know what performance products idea of "honing" is but I think it will likely need to be machined, at least 10,000ths off. We tried a bit of emory paper to check for any burrs, etc, but without a proper micrometer to check the bore it was a no go. A crank pulley should slide on smoothy without resistance at least as far as the keyway, this was almost impossible to even get started on the crank nose. I'm pretty sure a compitant tig welder could fix the radiator with a quick zap, it wasn't that bad, but for Joe, the last thing he wanted to see was the radiator damaged. It just added to the stress level. Has anyone on here done the tauris fan on a race radiator? if so, what was your clearance on the shroud from the waterpump? I think next time, we'll do the wiring, since that has taken a back seat to the more mechanical things. I like the reply from PP, " a handful of pulleys may give difficulty"! Yeah, no kidding, I was hoping the pulley install would go smooth to help Joe feel better. I for one felt like a heel for nicking his radaitor. Chris Rummel I have the ties on order:http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR%2D1901ERL&N=700+0&autoview=sku Chris don't worry $hit happens that just means that you need to make time to come down once I have all this mess squared away and ready for the "wiring" help. I called the only local radiator repair place Bob's Radiator in Ridge, Maryland nice guy seems like he can help. I'm going to bring it by on Saturday so he can see the damage. I hope before the weeks out I'll have time to drop off the pulley to the machine shop using the old one as a template. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 The oil cooler ties came in. Crank pulley was turned around in a day, got it back on Thursday. Radiator was dropped off yesterday; really nice guy "old school" should have it back next week sometime. Today I plan to mount the crank pulley, mount the oil cooler back on the lines, mount the hall sensor mount to the front cover, work on sorting the wiring and get the gauges ready. I am starting to feel more confident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I feel for you man, there are days when things just don't go well. Glad to hear your making progress!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 Joe, I made the E-7 list, and have requested a return to the DCA....I am coming buddy. We can get it all sorted out very soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S30TRBO Posted March 31, 2009 Author Share Posted March 31, 2009 Joe, I made the E-7 list, and have requested a return to the DCA....I am coming buddy. We can get it all sorted out very soon. Congratulations Sergeant First Class (Sel) Buckwalter!! Ferris Bueller, you're my hero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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