MaTTSuN Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 i have it all installed now, getting RPM signal but cant seam to get her to start it spits some spark out but sounds like the timing is waaaaayyy off I played with the trigger settings but cant find the right set up I mounted the Hall sensor in the same spot as the stock CAS would you guys mind sending me your trigger wheel setting Im glad this is not my daily driver but id like to make it my daily Im also getting an odd fault, after i try starting the car a few times the fuel pump starts to cycle on and off, like its being controlled by a turn signal haha once i load an old tune then turn off and on the car it goes away, but something new ive never had this is getting interesting, ill post some set up pics tonight i have to get ready for hockey Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) So you have the wheel ground to a 30-1? The trigger angle will depend on where the missing peak is on the wheel. Every peak is about 12 degrees. Do you have a timing gun? Edited June 10, 2013 by loy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 yes 3o-1 so i have 17 teeth between TDC and the sensor so thats 204deg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Sounds good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 cant adjust for that, tried before i left for hockey, can only get 45+90 135 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Here are some pics of my set up, and my car that needs some body work Ill get to that once i get the engine work sorted Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 The fuel pump cycling is usually an ignition output configuration error. What are your trigger and return positions for A, B, and C? It will vary depending on where you notched your missing tooth. I attached the spreadsheet you need to calculate it. With the trigger positions set and the sensor in the stock location, the trigger angle should be about 60° +/- 20° wheeldecoder.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Here is the set up im using, am i missing something? Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Here is the set up im using, am i missing something? Thanks Matt Yeah you need to set your trigger positions. Basically when the tooth A comes around it knows to fire Coil #1, and so on. Your tooth config is fubar right now If you don't have Excel, give me the tooth number that's in front of your sensor at TDC. With the motor at TDC the missing tooth is #0 and you count backwards (counterclockwise) to find the tooth number for your sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 counter clockwise my missing tooth is 13 teeth from TDC I have 3 coils so i need an A,B,C or do i need all the way up to F for cylinders 1-6? If you could set me up id be a happy camper Do you know why my fuel pump relay would cycle on and off after not starting? its Odd Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I cant open your zip do u have a screen shot of your settings? might get me in the right direction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 (edited) counter clockwise my missing tooth is 13 teeth from TDC I have 3 coils so i need an A,B,C or do i need all the way up to F for cylinders 1-6? If you could set me up id be a happy camper Do you know why my fuel pump relay would cycle on and off after not starting? its Odd Matt Here's a direct link to the file from MSextra.com You just need to config ABC for your three coils (or just A if you're using a single coil). I would clear out the other fields. The macro needs to know the tooth number at your sensor, not where the gap is at TDC. If the gap in your wheel happens to be at your sensor, then you would use tooth 0. Your fuel pump is cycling because your ignition input/output is configured incorrectly. Once we get the wheel decoder info set properly, it should stop. I'm at work, so I can't get a screencap, but my settings are something like this: Tooth number aligned with sensor at TDC: 14 Trigger Pos A: 7 Trigger Return A: 11 Trigger Pos B: 17 Trigger Return B: 21 Trigger Pos C: 27 Trigger Return C: 1 The rest are set to 0 My trigger angle is around 56° Edited June 10, 2013 by Metro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Wow thats for the great info, ill be putting this in as soon as i get home I still need to post my coil set up i mounted it on i think its the old A/C condenser bottle mount right beside the engine I think i made my set up very close to yours so those numbers should fire her right up...."should" haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 You should also upgrade your TunerStudio. Looks like you're using v 1.13. Latest is 2.0.8. In the latest version you just enter in the number of teeth, number missing, and where the tooth #1 angle. Maybe it's the firmware you are running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 well, pluged some numbers in and still didnt get much success everytime it kicks some spark and loads the system the fuel pump starts cyclying again so i have to reload an old tune and turn the ignition off then on then start again... I know im close but a little frustrated do i need to turn on the outputs so coils A,B,C showing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Hard to tell, but it looks like your coils are paired wrong. Should be 1+6, 2+5, 3+4. How you wire them up is up to you, but I setup A for 1+6, B for 2+5, and C for 3+4. Also note that C and B are flipped with MS. So D14 is A, D15 is C, and D16 is B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I just went by the numbers on the coil pack itself, Maybe thats a general fire order and not the Z'eds :-/ Im using the relay board for the hook up, this is what i got from the DIY set up when i mounted my coil drivers Relay MS pin# A=S5 or Pin 36 B=S4 or Pin 31 C=S3 or Pin 29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Yeah the coilpack they sell is for a v6, I think it's from a Chrysler. Rewire the plugs and I think it'll run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 cool Ill try when i get home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaTTSuN Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 switched the wires... still no start does it matter top or bottom location or do both spark at the same time? i figured out my fuel pump fault tho i had the distributor setting still on with the generic wheel :-/ Im close to giving up... hope i can get it sorted by the weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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